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@bugeyedriver has a similar coating on the front of his trailer. It is white and provides great protection. Mike

My point wasn’t to question your wear or towing technique. I was attempting to let the OP know that a film covering on the lower front of his trailer might be a good investment based on our experience. Mike

There IS an Oliver that has black truck bed liner spray on it and I believe that at least at one time this Oliver actually belonged to one of the Oliver's. I'm sure that Jason Essary would remember it and might even have a pic or two. I was surprised that it didn't look as bad as I thought it would. However, why get a new trailer sprayed right off the bat? Let it get dinged up a bit and then spray it or get PPF applied initially to reduce the dings (assuming that you intend to do some gravel roads and the like). Bill

We’ve had good luck with RVLock support - as they are responsive and quick to send out parts under warranty. I forget the exact failure mode, but our original OTT installed RCLock quit working. After chatting g with them on the phone they mailed out a replacement circuit board for the cost of shipping. (I’d whine about having to pay shipping - but I’ll get over it.) In the meantime, I had purchased a whole new unit from Amazon. This one talks yo you and had a lock/unlock sound that doesn’t wake the neighbors. I replaced the circuit board in the original lock and kept it as a spare. Last season, the “new” lock stopped unlocking reliably - only withdrawing the deadbolt about halfway and requiring a second attempt to get in to the trailer. So, the “spare” gets re-installed. Several more emails and sending them a video of the lick not working and they say they’re sending me something. Not sure what yet. I still don’t care for the battery situation. Trying to install 2 rows of 2 AA batteries stacked vertically and getting the battery cover on takes dexterity and fast hands.

We’ve got half as many years and maybe a third of the miles, so I’d expect you have more wear and tear. I do all my own cleaning and polishing - so I’m intimately familiar with the whole front end of the trailer. The upper half gets WAY more abuse from bugs - especially in the Southern states. I’ve only spotted one tiny nick of any significance and it doesn’t even penetrate the gelcoat. I’d guess our “paved roads” mission combined with our low-slung tow vehicles (and not doing burn-outs on gravel) keep the nicks to a minimum. Just from a drivability standpoint, I avoid the jacked-up, high ground clearance vehicles like the AT-4 (or is it ATX?) trim level on our GMC Sierra. Just keeping the truck body close to the ground keeps the amount, trajectory, and velocity of road debris mitigated adequately. I like a vehicle that my wife can enter and exit without a rope ladder - and also at least a bit of ability to see objects close to me when maneuvering in tight parking lots.

This is exactly what I’ve been doing. No issues. Mike

We’ve towed now for 10 seasons, 100K+ miles. We have quite a few nicks and chips on the lower front of the trailer. When the CGI guys refresh my ceramic coating next time I’m going to have them put their film on the front. Mike

On our LE2 that DC breaker is under the forward, port side of the king bed - just aft of the pantry/battery compartment. (Inside the trailer) I manually “trip” that breaker when we store our Ollie to kill all the DC power drains so that a small battery maintainer can keep the batteries topped up. It takes only a very light touch on that red button to open the circuit. (Pop that “swing arm” that has been mentioned.) Rather than a LARGE electrical load opening that breaker, I’d bet an accidental touch with the back of your hand or a battery charger cable or whatever manually tripped the breaker. Just my SWAG based on my experience with that style breaker.

I purchased a “Rock Tamer” mudflap setup to use on our two vehicles, assembled it part way and essentially abandoned the project because of not having the right tools handy to trim the mudflap height/length and “drill” the holes through the gummy “rubber” material. After towing the Ollie for a season, I checked and found so little evidence - much less “damage” to the lower front area of the trailer that I decided that the added weight and fooling with the RockTamer (that fits over the ball carrier shaft) really isn’t necessary. If anything, weathering of the gel coat and nicks from rocks kicked up by -other- vehicles that strike the sides of the trailer are at least as big of a concern as gravel thrown up by our tires. We primarily travel paved roads, and find the few times that we’re on gravel that the roads are SO rough that slowing to walking speed is required to keep dental work and trailer contents where we last stowed them. That said - if anybody is looking for a Rock Tamer setup - I’ll make you a helluva deal on the one I have in storage. It’s in Hammond, LA, but I could arrange to have it in Winnsboro, TX this winter/Spring. https://a.co/d/01fojEhk

I do as well. Using the white hose of course! GJ

I was wondering if anyone had put a Vortex or LineX type of covering on their Oliver and what kind of results they had. I’m taking delivery of an Apex 23 in October and have made an appointment with the folks who do the ceramic coatings to do a PPL on the front and lower undersides of my trailer to provide some additional protection against debris being thrown up. Seems like a good idea to do right off the bat vs after taking damage though the thought of spraying my brad new trailer gives me a huge “eak”!!!!

Was happy to read about your Titan. I have a 2020 Pro 4X to tow my Oliver Apex 23 when I get in October. I also purchased the Anderson for same reason you mentioned so feel good about that.

Another option that does not require this. Just use a funnel to poor the required amount of bleach/NCI into the hose (while holding it up right of course). Then connect the hose to the port and start running the water.

We love Glacier. My wife and I try to go up each year at the end of May and ride our eBikes (see this is where I am not as hardcore as you) up going-to-the-sun road when it is closed to traffic. Avalanche Lake is one of the prettiest hikes around. Weather caused us to devert this year.

(And my wife says -I- spend too much money on stuff from Amazon…) 😂

We have spent a good deal of time on the opposite side at Green River Lake area which is amazing to say the least. Rough ride to get the Oliver in but we have done it twice now. Lander has been on our short list too but have only driven by that part and its been quite a few years now. The Winds are fantastic.

That's a great price on the LT225/75R/16 Michelins. Believe one of the local installers for Tire Rack can be Discount Tire, for those who like Discount Tire.

The Lonseal Yacht flooring deserves the best cleaner available. It's AI powered!

JD, On a side note...I thought I was wasting my time and money with our dc to dc install last year at the Q, as I have barely used it the past year and a half but I sure am happy I did as we've had so many cloudy days since getting into Canada on our way to Alaska. Each day we travel we get them charged back up in a respectable amount of time. Of course we mostly boondock as you know. I only used 6ga so don't get things through as fast as you but I still have plenty to satisfy me. John

I guess that you've never actually met ScottyGS!

The manual wants you to use bleach and the boondocking port to use the pump to pull diluted bleach through into the tank. Disadvantage is its a bit of a pain, and I’d prefer a better alternative to bleach. So instead I’m using the Sani-System packets which use a mixture of ammonium chlorides. It also has the advantage that it can be run through the water heater. Regardless of your sanitizer, looking for pros/cons of this approach. Instead of the boondocking port which requires futzing around with valves which is a pain, I got this https://www.amazon.com/RV-Inline-Sanitizer-Easiest-disinfect/dp/B08F2QTQ5T The picture is deceiving, it’s a neat little inline container that the bleach/NCl can be poured into, that then is attached to the (for me) streetside port direct to tank. Then just run the faucets through the system. No messing with valves, much quicker and easier. However, are there parts of the system that are not being sanitized? I guess the answer is yes - the curbside port, which I rarely use. I guess I answered my own question, it really should go through the curbside. Anyhow comments are welcome …

As with most things, I'm sure this is true. However, I believe in the acronym "Anything But China" (ABC) whenever possible. Often, China is the only choice. Current management is changing that now, if you know what I mean! 😎 For 30 years, I've purchased a lot of tires from Tire Rack. I can understand the draw to Discount Tire because they are everywhere you may need them on the road, but I find them over-priced and difficult customer service. Tire Rack includes a 2-year Road Hazard and include installation in your purchase and choose a local shop, ship them there and get a contracted installation rate. The other thing I like about Tire Rack is they are the only company that lists "Country of Origin" at the bottom of the Specs tab for every tire they sell. @John Dorrer if your friend with the new Oliver is still in the market for tires, I strongly suggest these at this price! (EDIT: these do not come in 15" so will only work for older Olivers with 16" wheels.) Michelin Agilis CrossClimate LT225/75R16 These had MSRP of $260 each but are discontinued for the new version, on closeout for $189. I have these tires on our Oliver because it came that way. These are great tires for the Oliver, designed as a high mileage commercial van tire. I've towed our trailer about 300 miles on rocky Arizona dirt roads. The rocks on our roads are sharp. I know this because once I got a 4" cut into a rear dirt bike tire. We have about 18K miles in the last 2 years, and I have no idea how many miles prior owner(s) towed and the tread and sidewalls look like new with DOT codes 2420 (6 years old). They are Michelin, and according to Tire Rack, Made in the USA! Anybody need new Oliver tires?

However, the GX and the Elite I would be a fantastic combination! Luxury on either side end of the hitch.

We’ve been using this one for several years - either set on top of the (closed) propane cooktop in the Ollie, or on a picnic table or small accessory (Lifetime) table: https://a.co/d/0aWqQ1by Though - the one you have looks a little sleeker. I stash this one on the second drawer on the left under the sink. We keep rolls of toil or cling wrap around it to keep it from shifting.

You don’t really have a robotic floor cleaner in your trailer?!