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Almost as bad as having a catastrophic blowout in the middle lanes of six on an interstate at 60mph. Use your own judgement. Your mileage may vary...

The biggest difference I see is that your gray tank connection seems more or less parallel to the drain pipe (both pointing down), so you have a true "U" shape in your tube. My gray tank pipe connection points towards the drain pipe at 45 degrees, so I think "they" folded the flexible tube to get it on to both pipes. I think that if I removed my tube and warmed it up, it would return to a "U" shape, but not help me because of the angle of my connections relative to each other. It seems to me that the original "defect" is the angle of the gray tank pipe connection. I'm assuming that I can't just twist that pipe so that it points down. I've contacted OTT. I'm not getting the support that I'd like. I've started to escalate, but the response has been disappointing.

Our carefree awning that came with our 2018 elite2 has been nothing but problems. In your case I would not work the crank as you are likely to strip the gears. The arms are spring loaded so should come out with some “physical assistance”. I have replace the manual crank gearhead and also the awning fabric as it had stretched. Your awning fabric may be bunched in the roller making it harder to extend. Or it may be a jam in the gearhead and roller somehow. You can take the gearhead off (just a few screws) to observe but I would try everything else first.

Bill Thanks! Forgot to mention the Hungry Mother SP VA rally has a Facebook group, too.

Sounds good. I’ll bring it along. Bob

Be a bit careful with your reservations for the Hiawassee rally in that they really do get crowded. They do have an "overflow" area but I can not recommend it. Also, if you go be sure to get to the pot luck dinner early because all seats under cover will be gone quickly. Bill Hiawasee artwork-2017-1 - Copy-2.tif

@Olive2Roam I am interested, we can touch base at the rally somehow. Mossey

I recently had the new rec pro on-demand hot water heater installed in our Oliver. I have this heating unit from our trauma left over if anybody could use it. We will be at the rally. However, we are leaving tomorrow morning to start our road trip so if you get back to me quickly, I’ll throw it in and you can have it when we get to the rally. Bob

We happened to be camping at Stone Mountain SP NC a few weeks ago when the Carolina Casitas were having a gathering, they invited us to join their Facebook group, so we did! Nice group of folks. Hope to attend Eggs on the Hiawassee River GA gathering held during June. They also have a Facebook group. We attended a couple of Hungry Mother SP VA Fiberglass gatherings attended by various fiberglass owners including Ollie owners. If I remember correctly one of the Oliver owners attending had a hand in making Peach and Cherry cobblers, too! 🙂

Thanks to all who have provided valuable insights and photos. As we have had a busy travel schedule on the road, I have not yet had the opportunity to pull the drawers under the sink or to inspect the underside of the fresh water tank overflow tube in Hull #1291. For now, we are carefully filling the fresh water tank when we need to boondock, until our pre-planned schedule allows me time to try to "get to the bottom" of what caused our problem. We will be on the road until the end of October. I hope to be able to investigate once we get back home. I will then report my findings, if any.

We have done the list the last three years. After talking to Scott Oliver and Matt last year, they were going to try to include that information with the welcome package. So no, I am not collecting details this year. Due to a scheduling conflict with a building project here at home, we have canceled our reservations. We’ll see you in Florida for Eggs n S’mores.

Steve, was it you who put the attendee list together with Site Locations last year for The Lake Guntersville Rally? If so, please add me. Hull 292, site E38 in The Range Rover, From Tampa Florida.

Welcome from Gary, Anita, and Ranger, our Standard Poodle in Hull 292, The Range Rover. We will be at site E38 at the Rally. Hope to see you there

I have been following along without anything to add, but I now have a few thoughts. The fresh water overflow discharge port is, in the words of Google: So it looks like a 2 piece fitting that requires access to the inside and outside of the hull to install, service or remove. So the next step requires a modification to the floor below the bottom drawer below the sink. This picture of the area below the sink without the drawers in place. The blue square surrounds a cutout in the rear wall that OTT provided for access to the refrigerator 120V outlet. The red square surrounds a cutout in the floor that I made with a router, using the walls as a guide. This access was needed for a prior plumbing modification. It may also provide access to the freshwater overflow port that would be needed for the installation, removal or repair. Both of the access ports are normally covered with a thin piece of plywood. My MOP for sanitizing the freshwater tank in hull 193, begins by mixing several ounce of chorine or a quart of hydrogen peroxide in a 5 gallon water jug and using the boondocking port to pump it into the freshwater tank. I then fill the tank using a hose at the freshwater fill bib. I am generally in the area of the Ollie while doing the sanitation job, but I do not monitor the amount of water going in, I just wait for it to overflow. And I do use a pressure regulator set to 40 lbs. whenever connecting a hose to the freshwater tank or city water bibs. Mossey

Better go ahead with your retirement as planned😎. You have seen the future!

In addition to the Oliver regional rallies, there are also fiberglass rallies with more and more Olivers in attendance. Here in Ohio, the Casitas of Ohio put on a spring kick-off fiberglass rally and a fall rally. This past spring there were five Oliver’s in attendance out of maybe 20-25 total trailers. The Florida Eggs n S’mores fiberglass rally in January had at least a dozen Oliver’s. Hungry Mother fiberglass rally in Western Virginia had five Olivers. And there are similar rallies all over the country.

Good photos yep, one flexible P-trap is straight, the other is certainly twisted. How do they twist this during installation? Sometimes a job is easier when doing it the right way! Wish I had looked that direction when I had all the waste valves out (was instead looking forward to run DC-DC wiring)! Can a person get an arm in there to loosen the two hose clamps? If so, all can be good. You could put the part in hot water to get it back to original shape which was a great suggestion! But first I would send picture to OTT asking them to replace the part ASAP no charge. Also it's so cool to see the 3" ducting to the bathroom! If it kills me, I've got to install semi-rigid ducting, a homerun from furnace to bath. OEM ducting, Why, why, why? When the bottom hull is open for a few extra dollar full RIGID ducting SHOULD be laid. Ours was full of holes across the bottoms, everywhere. I replaced all I could within reach.

From the looks of those long tanks, and knowing that the level sensors are on the ends, just a few degrees off lengthwise level could result in significant tank level inaccuracies! Good picture! @Hokieman

That's a Through-hull marine fitting. Oliver probably added the insect screen. I looked at mine with a mirror and it doesn't have that black stuff. Me thinks it's clogged! I'd try poking a piano wire through the mesh while slowly adding water to the tank to see if it flushes out. Catch it in a white container to see what it is.

Me too, and thanks for the photo Mike! You can almost read the print on the overflow tube! Hard to be sure with photography, things closer looking larger and all, BUT the overflow tube sure looks considerably larger than the rest of the plumbing.

Here’s another photo that shows how it is installed. Replacing that screen is now on my task list. Thanks to @Wayfinder for bringing the screen situation to our attention, I would probably have never noticed it. And thanks to @Rivernerd for alerting us to a potential problem. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/11495-fresh-water-tank-overflow-condition/#comment-126984

TPMS are nice but the batteries do die and then it one more thing to replace. I have them on my tow vehicle and premptively replaced them because they are pain when they die. Been there with a different vehicle. Like you, a good, frequent visual check plus putting a pressure gage on once in awhile is my prefered method. Like Russell explained, having 4 pressures in your face all the time can be an unwelcome mental distraction for many of us.

Agreed, a screen insert makes sense to keep insects out. Filter material, why? It does look like a filter, but there's no need to filter waste water! The finer the screen or filter material, the quicker it will muck up, and eventually be closed shut. Thanks for the picture! I suggested the scope and now I need to get one! The screen/mesh looks somewhat clogged up. Who knows what has collected above it in your 5 years, our 11 years? Hull #1291 has at most 4 years of use! Could be one of those hole-saw plugs from the tank installation stuck along the path. It irks me how lazy "professional installers" can be. With the right tool it would take a few seconds to retrieve the plugs and a blast of compressed air to quickly clean out the new tank. Fill the tank more slowly? Filling up at Maverick on our last trip, It took over 10 minutes to fill the tank (28 gal on the counter) and the hose had a very good flow rate. Because it's so slow, I now start filling the fresh tank and dump tanks while it's taking its time filling. For me the 1/2" PEX plus the OEM restrictor makes the incoming water flow slow enough. I'll be checking and likely removing this "filter" instead. On my long list is also removing the Fresh and City Water line restrictors (they restrict flow vs. pressure). Everybody in every RV forever has run the hose until the tank overflows. Camping is supposed to be fun! 🤣 Is the "plastic flanged bulkhead fitting" removable, so serviceable? The screen is relatively close to the bottom, so there's hope. Given @Rivernerd's experience, I would certainly try to remove that fitting and see if the screen/filter is serviceable. If not, I would take long auger drill bit and turn it by hand slowly into the screen, trying to grab as much of it as possible for removal. Try to remove as much as possible with the bit, wider bits and other tools. Then use the scope again to see if it's clear all the way up and down into the tank. Finally, take a piece of stainless steel screening material, shape it into a cone and insert it at the very bottom. This screen insert could be removed later easily with a needle-nose pliers. It will be interesting to find out the end result here. I imagine a lot of us will be looking up that overflow tube soon enough!