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Performance update => I was able to run the Chill Cube 24x7, thermostat set at 74F, for 4 days producing this data. Data was recorded each day later afternoon 5PM +/-. The Chill cube did not quite produce the set temp in the heat of the day but did so the reast of the day and at worse case 76F it was still quite comfortable in the cabin. Off course shore power was not connected but in addition to battery power, our 320W rooftop solar was adding to inputted amperage. The table shows Ah used daily. Keep in mind this is with the A/C running 24x7 which is rarely our use case (actual use turning A/C off at night and during mornings). Having 900 Ah it appears I can count on running the A/C for a full 3 days, since end of day 4 SOC dropped below our 20% warning point. With 600 Ah you could count on 2x24 hour days. The picture below shows cabin and outdoor temps one afternoon during the test at 4:30 PM. The cabin temp is read by a Ruuvi sensor mounted above the kitchen sink. The sensor titled Oliver Trunk is positioned in the rear basement, near the incoming water lines down by the 4" drain plumbing. For "Oliver Roof" I placed a sensor rooftop under the solar panels so that it is in the shade. If I took this picture 1-2 hours earlier in the day the roof temp would certainly be above 110F! I had no idea these results would be so positive and being the avid boondocker, it's great to know we can now count on A/C cooling anytime/anywhere! When you have the old-school A/C, with the basic single-speed ON/OFF compressor (Dometic, Truma, Tosot, Houghton, etc.), you will use approx. 100 Ah per hour in the heat of the day (assuming 1400W while the compressor is ON). The inverter or variable-speed A/C will consume in 24 hours what the standard A/C will consume in just 2 hours, OMG! (BTW, the Dometic P2 will produce worse results since it uses 1800W when ON, or 150 Ah/hour). The technology change available today is

They're all about the same. Plumbing connections should be the same. Make sure you set pressure on your new accumulator based on its instructions related to the pressure spec of your water pump. There is a Shrader valve on the accumulator where you can check pressure or connected a pump or compressed air.

Thank you Got it filled in now.

There are several posts discussing how the signature works... try this one: You could also search for something like "signature" in the search field in the banner at the top of a forum page.

I cannot figure out how to add my info to my forum posts. How do I do this?

On my 2020 Hull 642 it already had Shurflo 182-100 that cracked over last winter. Evidently, my winterization wasn't very effective. I couldn't find this model on Amazon but I did get a Shurflo 182-201. Now I am not sure this is the right model but the actual pump is a XXX-100. What is the difference between the Shurflo 182-201and the Shurflo 182-200? They look like they are interchangeable but maybe not.

There are times that I feel exactly the same way with regards to being out in the world! Bill

Say they're about equal, your wattage being a little higher to handle the humidity of Florida.

Very similar to the numbers I see from my Turbro, though I will see low 900's watt range when first starting up and interior temps are 90+ degrees. Once close to setpoint it's in the 500's during a hot sunny day and around 200 watts at night to maintain temps.

At one point, we were traveling with 2 cats, male and female siblings. One day the screen door got left unlatched and Callie (the brave one) wandered out, followed by Max (the big coward). Steph saw them and walked toward the trailer. Callie jumped back inside but Max panicked and dove under the fifth wheel. Eventually, by securing Callie inside and leaving the door open, Max made a mad dash back into the camper and hid under the covers. The outside world looked pretty good. Until they were in it. 🙂

There is some info here:

Yes, mods and upgrades are a personal choice. We chose to have every possible convenience. We can disconnect, but we wouldn't travel without the capability to connect anytime/anywhere! 😎 A reading of -60A on the Victron Connect App is the highest number I've ever observed set in Turbo mode. That's only 786W figuring 13.1V. Med-High setting will draw 48A (576W), low 14A (168W) and when ambient temps drop at night, the fan runs extra slow using as low as -2A. It's CRAZY. If these numbers are close enough, we can say the Chill Cube uses half the power of the Houghton 48v at high settings and even better when the cooling need is low. Keep in mind we are at 5440 FT elevation with RH = 20% so my numbers are likely better than when at sea level with humidity. And where the Houghton and every other single-speed compressor A/C will cycle full power more often.

I think I would remove the stopper, then pump some caulk down the screw hole and the level it off on top so it does not impede the draining of the tracks. What a Pain.

Just a note for those who are using the Anderson WD hitch - you are not supposed to lubricate the ball. It has to swivel with the trailer, otherwise you interfere with the anti-sway function.

Yes, you are correct. Oliver has had to source another coupler supplier. Bulldog is supposedly in bankruptcy proceedings as of Oct of 2025. Hopefully they will restructure. Pic of new coupler -

Tractor Supply sells a 2” ball 7,000lb capacity coupler that looks like the hitch on the X23. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tractor-supply-traveller-straight-coupler-2-in-ball-7000-lb-capacity-2526179

The ones I got don’t have that. They’re just a simple on or off.

We all have our priorities. There is a definite advantage to not adopting the latest and greatest technology. If I tore the P2 out when the -first- “so much better” Air Conditioner (which I think was the Truma) - I’d be kicking myself now wishing I’d waited fir the Houghton. Oh wait, the flavor of the month is now “Chill Cube”. Who knows, maybe by the time I get around to replacing our original A/C - the ChillCube with be a couplea hundred bucks cheaper. More likely - something even better will be on the market by 1Q27 - which is the first opportunity I’ll have to rework anything. Same with my “obsolete” flooded cell lead acid batteries. Lithium is cheaper NOW that it was when we first purchased our trailer - and there’s more options. My original batteries still have some life left in them. But - WHEN it’s time to retire them, I’ll consider the options and likely have a bigger selection and the lower prices that come with not buying when everybody’s rabid about the latest and greatest. We did replace the OEM television - but only with another same size television that’s a bit less flaky. But come to think of it, we didn’t buy a travel Trailer to sit inside and watch television. Word is - that people go to different places to go outside and look around. We’ve even “hiked”! (Can you believe it?!) OMG! I never realized you were so addicted! Don't people go “camping” to disconnect? Maybe even commune with nature?! Put aside the “devices”? (BTW - the folks who accused us of “glamping” consider “camping” to be that thing that people do with tents and sleeping on the ground in “sleeping bags”. Camping apparently isn’t a black or white proposition.)

Be sure to unplug the 7 pin connector from the tow vehicle when testing the breakaway switch. When the pin in the breakaway switch is pulled 12v power from the trailer’s batteries can back feed into and cause damage to the trailer brake controller on the tow vehicle. Bill

Anybody notice that they appear to be using a different coupler on the new Apex X23?

Welcome! We are #509, The Swallow and are in Durham, ME. We went to Campobello a couple of years ago, such a neat place. Except for the mosquitoes! Paula

Here are the specs for the Houghton 48v unit that's in the Apex. It runs only as low as 660 watts (which matches the 666 watts in the Oliver video) which is higher than either the Turbro I have or the Chill Cube you have seen in real world testing. It also draws up to 1700 watts at full power which is something I don't think either of ours ever get near. Obviously have the loss in the inverter conversion but there's loss in the 48v cabling too... Would still like to see real world data from the 48v Houghton, though...

You wonder about our "fellow Ollie owners" yet your profile states you don't own a travel trailer. What gives?

Hey, our's was not brand new and it was still really special 😉 Welcome to the clan!