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Unfortunately, the original owners were not "detail oriented." After looking at the trailer the first time, Rebecca (who had been talking to one member of the couple) and I (talking to the other one) compared notes and could not come up with a route that would take the stated mileage (5k) and the places visited. Yes - we were really in love with the idea of a LE II and based on our experience with our LE I figured the Oliver build quality could overcome any reasonable maintenance neglect. 🙂 I was wondering about the brakes - especially since (1) the axles had to be removed to put on the new springs and (2) the involved disconnecting and reconnecting the wires (assumption since the brake wires have really well applied new connections which look like Alcan quality work). When were brakes inspected - not since we have had the trailer. Need to do that when we get back to Dallas. I'm sure someone has done an excellent tutorial on it. Suggestions welcome in case my forum search skills are not up to par.

Lake Catherine SP is one of our favorites! Mike

Hey Gang, It's past time to retire the Penguin AC for something quieter and more suited to our eventual upgrade to a 600ah Lithium system. I know we have owners with the Truma, Houghton, and dometic freshjet 3 series. (Thanks to Roadlotus for her write up on the FJ3) I am leaning toward the new Dometic Freshjet 4 or 5 series. Reasons include: A) Quieter than the penguin (what isn't) B) would be easy to fit into the existing structure C) Service almost anywhere D) Has iphone app control as well as the Air Distribution Box control and E) Should be energy efficient enough to allow a few hours operation on a 600 ah system. I was considering the Furrion Chillcube but the possibility of condensate overrunning the pan down the side of the trailer is a deal killer. Just wanted to ask what I might not be considering on the above list OR if there is an outlier that is not on my Radar. TIY, Scotty

Good thought Tom (and Dudley). Could be the brake shoes, but I would think @DunnYet would have noticed more than a squeak when spinning the wheels if this was true. The shoes, when the self-adjusters are working correctly, should just slightly drag on the drum and you should hear and feel drag as you spin in either direction. Correct the brakes are worn in rolling forward, something to consider for sure. The circular pattern of the shoes is not perfectly round like the drum. If the squeak has some pulsating pattern this could be true. If it's a constant squeal when spinning, then more likely the bearing. A three-year-old trailer should not have bearing or brake issues. IMHO, 3 years would be minimal time for a first inspection. This is supposed to be a 5-year 100K system. Also understand to check the brakes the outer circlip and spindle bolt must be removed. The bolt is on at 150 ft-lb and you must be able to replace it and retighten to this spec. I don't think a buildup of brake dust would do this. If the trailer was dragged through a lot of water on and off, then perhaps. I just lifted our Oliver and spun the two wheels on one side. I heard the constant drag showing the shoes are adjusted nicely. On one I heard a slight chirp in reverse, it went away immediately. Nothing you would call a squeal, but it plays to your hypothesis. Mine are like brand new though. I installed new D52 axles 10 months ago and have only 3,600 miles on them. @DunnYet, next time you do the spin test, try to focus on what kind of sound and where it's coming from, dead center or on the perimeter. You could use the tube in ear approach in lieu of a stethoscope. Constant squeal or something more dragging and pulsating?

Thank you very much! On my way to UHaul place. Update: I called before driving. Oh well… No trailers available today, but reserved for tomorrow. I think I’ll take a walk. Lake Catherine SP is gorgeous.

That was my first thought. We have one "Never Adjust" brake that always sets itself a little tighter than the other 2.

Thanks for the info.

It could just be that one of the brakes is out of adjustment. The drum brakes are 'self adjusting' but it's not always a perfect system. There could also be built up debris, brake dust, etc. that is interfering with the brake shoe or components. I think it's a good sign that the brakes don't squeak in the forward direction. Because the shoes wear-in mostly when applied when moving forward they are less likely to squeak when rotated in that direction. Because your trailer is used, do you have any data as to when your brakes were last inspected and what may have been found at that time in terms of the amount of wear? Your trailer is newer than mine so I suspect that your brake shoes still have a good service life left on them.

Must have been getting tired last night! Truma in the title made me think HWH since there have been so many posts. Today I clearly see 'furnace' in title and body of post. There is something called a "wall cowl" and several flaps in this system. One of them is banging when it changes speed producing this sound.

@Boudicca908 Check out this YouTube video by "The Trailer Smith". It's 1 of about 5 that he has put up. Then check out his other trailer video's, for instance, search for "brakes". All of his videos that I have seen have been very informative. Mossey

Do you think this is the right one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DREZYE/ref=sw_img_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I agree this video illustrates a problem with the water heater; however it doesn't address the issue with the furnace.

Will now has much better equipment for testing. It’s perfectly fine to like a product, but it’s also okay to discover it’s actually terrible through testing and share your honest opinion. Some unscrupulous scumbag individuals at Dragonfly Energy are hoping to profit before the company fails, but I suspect their plan will backfire, and the company will still collapse. It’s unfortunate for the hardworking people who work there.

Additional information - Temp this morning is 40 F degrees in Rawlins WY so I have time to track the cycles of the VarioHeat while enjoying morning coffee. (1) Re-reading the VarioHeat manual from our Oliver year (2023) it appears that the "The appliance always starts at the lowest setting. If this is not sufficient to achieve the desired temperature in the vehicle, the appliance switches to a higher operating level after about 5 minutes." (2) The "basketball" sound appears to occur more frequently at the state transitions between the low to high and the high to low, not on the off to low state transition. (3) The sound seems to come from the outside wall area rather than from the point where the actual VarioHeat sits under the curb side twin bunk. After the completion of the laundry sorting process this morning I will pull the bunk apart and see if I can isolate further.

I need to hit the road so don't have a lot of time to respond here, but will try to answer some of your questions. My photo of the junction box was made in a hurry, leaning over the mechanic's shoulder; didn't see exactly what he did to fix it (wishing I had inspected before he buttoned it up). When I open it back up (likely at Lake Catherine SP) I will take more photos. I don't know what that means. Many times, I have checked my lights by jumping in and out of the vehicle. Then I discovered the "Test Lights" function on the TV center console (how convenient!) and all lights function. A few times I have had someone around to just walk behind while I engage breaks, backup, running and signals and all lights seem to work all the time. I haven't seen any malfunction of the lights on TV or TT *** EXCEPT!! Shoot -- Did I fail to mention that when the TT is connected by 7-pin cable, even when the TV is turned off, the trailer lights SOMETIMES flicker? I made a video of that; sorry if I failed to mention it before. It stops when I use the key fob and LOCK the truck. One guy said it's just low power to features (like the lights for seeing the ground at night), other guys said it was something wrong. I described it as looking like a SHORT IN THE WIRING. *** ... so besides that detail, the only malfunction I have experienced (beyond the warning lights on dash) has been intermittent NO BRAKES -- I test this using the Brake Gain Control on the center console at low speed; it also brings up information on the driver dash location that shows +2.5 or +3.0 etc -- when the brakes are not functioning that information show dashed lines in lieu of the moving blue bar on the indicator (brought to us by human factors engineering, right? so we humans can trust that something is happening there, but not actually connected in any mechanical way). I am learning to feel whether the brakes are working or not. Quite a few times, they start out not working and then they kick in. It seems to be related to vibration; a lot of times the warning lights begin after I have come to a full stop (traffic light, railroad crossing) and then I start out again and they start dinging away. I have spare wago connectors (recommended for my tool kit by Mothership) but no butt connectors, on crimping tool. I will order a new 7 pin connector. ** somewhere online Chevy says to "be certain to use the correct 7 pin connector" for this vehicle. When I asked the dealership, they kept telling me they don't sell those. I said, I want the part number of the one installed by factory on my truck so I can find correct matching end; it took them 10 minutes to understand me. I don't know how important that is -- Non-Chevy people (including OTT) say it doesn't matter, but I wonder about the control modules and how persnickety they are ** HOWEVER, since my Oliver operated without a hitch for three years, I figure whatever OTT installed was fine. (haha pun intended) I agree. Nothing worse than a ghost. I plan to do the U-Haul test. Might not even need to leave their parking lot, but I hope to get some sightseeing in while there (if I can manage working around the deluge that is coming). I will also look for an ammeter; it might also be useful to me for radio work. There seem to be quite a few different types, so if you can, recommend some minimum qualities (clamp-on, I see). Will order this. I can ship to my friend (fellow Oliver owner) in Cimarron. Gotta go. Thanks to all for the continuing help.

Thanks @jd1923 - We were outside the recall numbers on the water heater - now I have something else to look for (LOL) 🙂 However, this is the air heater rather than the water heater. Same manufacturing (lack of) procedures could apply. I'm going to try to find any diagrams to of the overall system so I can possibly get an idea of whats in the airflow path that could stick / fail and cause the thumping noise.

What a bunch of clowns!

……and here. What a shitty company!

Be very careful my friend! Certainly, take a look inside.

Excellent work! You got a lot done today. 😎 I have no idea how long these bearings are good for once they give the first clue. We're going to find out though, yours being the first experience on our forum. Some of y'all who boo-hooed my bearing replacement thread, time to rethink your position. A little noise in reverse. I think that's better than noise going forward or both directions. I would continue on your planned trip. Every day or two when you're leveling, lift that wheel and give it another spin. You have pinpointed your issue and can see how it progresses with miles towing. Exactly, there is no need. My bet is you'll get back to Texas on that bearing! But what do I know? If it gets bad, the bearing is easy to source, and a good trailer shop can replace it. I'll link my bearing replacement thread below. An Authorized Dexter Reseller should be able to replace it under warranty. You have a 2022 date on that axle and given the 5-year warranty is correct, you should be covered. I do not believe there is an original owner clause but find the limited warranty statement online to understand your rights. OTT, another authorized shop or Dexter direct. Your choice, OTT will just take more time. I'd go with a local authorized shop, hopefully back in Texas. If it gets bad when you're still in Wyoming, you always have the Alcan option. I usually forget it's Saturday too! If needed, you could call ahead to order the part. If so, send them your label picture. BTW, Dexter may not provide warranty replacement for a minor squeal. It needs to get worse and truly fail, the noise will be somewhat louder! 🤣 Don't wait 'til you get home. Given they were correct and Alcan just reinstalled them a bit tight, they have not yet been damaged. Loosen them as soon as you get a chance. They're Nylok nuts and will stay put. You'll be under the trailer with your torque wrench anyway, LOL! The rubber should oval-out some but not mushroom over the support metal like in your picture. I see 7 threads on that stud and 4 +/- might be the right count. Make them all the same. Buy new bushing sets later if they get bad. Keep us posted and do enjoy your trip! So cool, you got this worked out quickly! 😎

Sorry John, somehow I missed this when you posted this earlier! This is turning out to be my lamest mod! I usually do better. Dudley came up with the switch idea, and I didn't take the time to realize the light wiring would come in below the vanity countertop! So I have the doghouse mount with wires showing, new switch hole drilled... I'm bummed. 🙃 I was at first thinking of another porch light up front at the same height as the others. When that didn't seem right, I did not think of mounting something lower. Yes, for sure you can do your idea! You could pull power and put the lamp fuse inside the jack head. You would run the switch leg down the jack post, along the incoming line with the 30A fuse. Catch ground inside. Some kind of loom would make for a clean installation to cover the two wires and the jack fuse. You could use the same lamp as the porch lights. There is also a surface mount version of the light I purchased for the front. I just finished making my custom light bracket today. I'll post a picture when I get it installed.

Yep - me again. Reset 2.0 / Hull 1365 2023 LE II. We are week into a two week loop, and I seem to be finding all the weird noises in the trailer. This one is the furnace. Rebecca describes it as "someone bouncing a basketball." When the heater first comes on - regardless of just being turned on or cycling based on the temp, there is a metalic flapping sound that repeats for a minute to two minutes under the curb side bed. It sounds like something flapping up and down to me, Rebecca is sticking with her basketball metaphor. It does not happen everytime, but I can't establish any type of pattern so far. Sometimes it happens as the furnace starts, just now it make two thumps as the furnace shut down. Any thoughts or suggestions on what to check welcome. It's a maintenance / laundry day tomorrow, so good time to look at it.

I for sure know that "Duhh" feeling. Hope it works out well for you Monday. GJ

Started calling at 7:30 this morning. Made three calls before I realized that in the real world it's Saturday.🤦‍♂️ Will try again on Monday.

Test completed. All wheels turned silently, except the curb rear wheel. On that wheel forward rotation is silent, rear rotation (as in backing up the trailer) generates a dragging squeaking noise from the wheel. Performed this test on all four wheels, including the curb rear indicated above. No movement, and I gave it my best linebacker effort. Did not perform this test given that I had isolated it in the first test. @jd1923 based on my understanding of your troubleshooting matrix, this is pointing towards bearings. I did get a photo of the label on the rear axle and included it below. (I also took a shot of the bulldog shock attachments while I was down there. Thoughts? It looks like they were reinstalled a bit tighter than I had them originally. May pull and replace with new rubber bumpers when we get home. Given that we are second owners on Hull 1364, should I contact Dexter or Oliver about the potential warranty claim? Or am I out of luck on the axle waranty?