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The voltage directly from the batteries with my multi tester is reading 12.7 V. My Inverter is on. My 3 way refrigerator is not turned on and is therefore not drawing any power. My maxi fan is running on a slow setting. The solar Xantrex controller is showing that I have the 11.7V right now, and is indicating that solar is sending current into the unit. They are new batteries. You see, I’m preparing for our next camping trip this coming Thursday. Does any of this make sense? Charlie

What is the voltage measured directly on the battery terminals with a DVM?

I have AGM batteries that test with my multi tester as having full power. However, the Xantrex indicates “dead batteries”, even though the voltage reading on it says 11.7V. It seems to indicate that the Xantrex is not reading the batteries correctly.

I'll add our two cents. We've had our new-to-us Ollie for 18 months or so and are still finding stuff we think we need. We moved from a truck camper to the Ollie and thought we had most of what we needed, but.... As @FirstApex mentioned, I suggest a LevelMate Pro (so you can power from the Ollie): https://www.amazon.com/LogicBlue-Technology-LevelMatePRO-Wireless-Leveling/dp/B01FGGSWPW/ TPMS system to monitor the tires (you'll need metal valve stems): https://www.amazon.com/TST-507-FT-4-C-Repeater-Temperature-Monitoring-System/dp/B08W3QZ499/ Induction countertop cooktop and induction compatible cookware for inside and outside and many people have grills (Blackstone, Weber, etc.). We have a Paclock hitch lock (similar to the Proven) and a Collar lock to secure the latch (if you have the Bulldog coupler). https://www.amazon.com/PACLOCKs-UCS-77S-BUL-2516-Trailer-Coupler-Integrated-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0DLLQPB15/ or https://www.amazon.com/Proven-Industries-2516-Heavy-Duty-Couplers/dp/B0G319Y11G/ https://www.amazon.com/Collar-Trailer-Bulldog-style-Couplers-Including/dp/B00HL2NM0K/ You'll want an Electrical Management System (EMS) for the campground power post (in addition to the onboard EMS), a 30 AMP circuit tester and a non-contact voltage detector and outlet tester. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0W4CZ8/ https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-Receptacle-Tester-Black/dp/B088CWBBBM/ https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-80025-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B0912Z1W88/ Don't know what hitch size the Apex comes with but I'd ask for the 2 5/16" coupler. There's lots of info on the forums. I suggest using @Wayfinder's search tool found on this post:

GJ, You are correct on all counts! Good logical thinking, and good luck with the yellow wire mess! Geoff

Douglas, Just reading your post about the Rally and site F22. We are taking delivery of our Apex, 2Dreamin, on September 14th and will be at the rally in site F-20. See you there!!! While waiting for delivery, we have gathered up items we kept from our Airstream Interstate Class B and replacing items we got rid of, uggggg. For the F350 SuperDuty a GenY Torsion Hitich with Locks, 100% extended no-drill Bedslide from Ford for easier access to the truck bed, Leer Cap, Rhino Rachet Straps, Rockstar flaps, Bulletpoint mounts and a Proven Coupler Lock for the Apex. BAL chocks between the wheels, Andersen Stabilizer Blocks, chocks behind the wheels, blocks for leveling (didn't get the curved Andersen levelers as we weren't sure of the distance of the mud tires since they are larger tires, can always add them later). LevelMate, 8 x 20 CGear outside mat, 2 x 10 runner for inside, Hasko paper towel holder, various Toolertries, thank goodness we had stuff left from our van...........but I still gotta get a broom, if I can remember, LOL!!! Hull #1738, still in the making with only 1 week left!!!!!

I added the SS fender washers like @DavePhelpsdid. I later changed them out to black SS fender washers from McMaster Carr. Bill Hull 313

Unhelpful Update: we just arrived home, and everything works again. 🙄 We’re starting a barn build tomorrow (unfortunately not for Curiosity due to allowable square footage), but when I get a chance, I’ll track down what has to be a loose connection. Thanks for the help, and an update will follow as more information becomes available.

IMHO, when in storage pumping tire pressure up to the max limit will help to eliminate flat spots but your PSI numbers are correct for towing. On classic cars I had, I’d put them up on jack stands. For the Oliver, just use your leveler jacks to take most the weight off the tires. If you visit your storage monthly, get your tires off the ground with the leveler jacks and give the tires 1/4 turn.

I can neither agree or disagree with your theory or info. There are a lot of engineering factors that go into making the best ride possible and I am not an Engineer let alone a mechanical engineer with Dynamics and materials theory. If the theory is correct, then their are more questions : 1. According the the tire manufacture info I believe that the pressures should be 45 PSI due to the weight of the trailer. I try to run between 45-50. I use to run around 55psi more of a safety factor in my mind since I do't use TPS system. I would think the stiffer tire would create less heat, but could also cause uneven wear. I just changed the tire this year, due to age and not wear, 25K miles. I old set didn't show any abnormal wear and still looked almost like new My tires also only see the sun 60-80 days of sun shine a year. When in storage my tires are on concrete, I am planing on putting the Oli on Jack stands and getting most of the pressure off of the tire. I was reading that with large vehicles sitting in one spot for long periods it is hard on the tire, causing flat spots in the belts. 2. The Ez-flex probably needs to move as it was designed to move freely. I don't know what is the latest from Alcan for the torque specs for the wet bolts. But the way the Dexter bolts are made to allow Fairly free movement of the Ez-flex coupling. 3. The leafs. We know that the Dexter 4 leaf was under sprung in their design. The next question would be is Alcan 5-leaf the proper leaf spring, or would it be the Alcan 4-leaf or the Dexter 2200 lbs. I personally have the Alcan 5-leaf and like the ride. there is still movement but it minimal. Last Item: I know this is your mod thread, but should this be posted in the mammoth thread on leaf spring that might get more attention? This could end up causing several more pages of posts.

I am working the same issue with my hot water heater. It works on 120V, but not on 12 volts. The light indicator on the switch does not work. It appears to have died the same time that the hot water heater would not work on gas. I'm thinking I have either one or two issues. Light Issue: My assumption is that all of the indicator switches need a yellow wire (ground) and in this case the orange and reds are the 12 volt power to the switch and then to the hot water heater. If this is the case, then the fact that there is not a yellow ground connected to the switch would for sure result in a no indicator light condition. Likely the ground is buried in the mess of wire up there. Will go snipe hunting on it later. Power to 12V Side of Heater: My second assumption is that the rocker switch red and orange wires are switched on/off by the rocker and provides power to the water heater mother board to turn on/off the gas heating. Does all the power for gas operation flow thru this switch? If so, a bad switch would either fail open or closed, causing the gas side of the heater to either run or not run accordingly. If this is the case, just jumpering the red and orange terminals at the switch should cause a light off of the gas side of the heater. Correct? Is the above logical? Thanks GJ

Speaking of agree/disagree, I initially disagreed with Alcan but came over 100% eventually. On tire pressures it was opposite, I started as receptive but have concluded the opposite. Here's why with I think a reasonably accurate technical assessment of road vibration absorption in the suspension You can think of the vibration in frequency bands, low/mid/high. In the clip above you can see mainly low. Little hard but there's a few places with a gentle change in the road and there's a corresponding response in the leaf springs of something under a 1/2hertz say. It bounces basically. This is all in the 1-20 Hz range according to research I've read. The leaf springs job is to absorb this, and from watching I can see they're doing the job. Up from there it's mostly short impulse bumps like a pothole. I'll try to upload a video of that. This comes from transit time over a pothole, say 1' wide hole (big 'un) @ 50 mph. The two edges of the hole are approximately at an 80 Hz low band frequency from the tire transit time over the hole. This is probably the highest frequency you'll see on the road. So we're talking 0-100 Hz (rounding up) frequency band that the suspension needs to manage. Note this 1' pothole is an extreme example to find the boundary, going 50mph over one would not be fun. Consulting research on tire under inflation performance and getting an AI summary of the research. The point of this is that So the point is but going with lower inflation's you're simply shifting the frequency response around, at the cost of higher wear, lower mileage and greater tire stress. A higher inflation damps 50+ Hz (e.g. potholes), lower inflation's shifts it 50- which is exactly what the leaf springs and Ez-Flex are for. From watching on my trip I saw the Ez-Flex only engage on serious potholes, so that system is designed for the higher band. But what about the highest frequencies? Clearly the suspension isn't going to help with 50Hz up, what does it? A higher inflation tire. In summary ... Consulting sources then here's our lineup 0-10 Hz Leaf springs 10-50 Hz Dexter Ez-Flex (per their spec) 30-100 Hz 40 PSI trailer tire (various internet sources and AI summary) 50-250 Hz 65 PSI trailer tire (note a healthy high frequency band not covered elsewhere) So that's all I'll say on it. My position is that going with a lower inflation level of say 40 Hz is simply giving your Ez-Flex a break. I run at the factory 60-65 psi you can see above, and that inflation level shifts the frequency absorption to a region not covered by the rest of the suspension. In addition to the wear/mileage/stress, a lower pressure is counterproductive and leaving the higher frequencies free to transmit to the trailer, exactly what you don't want. I went down this trail to find out what I was seeing, which was at my 65 psi I saw little to no vibration in the trailer and the suspension system handling it all. Again I'll try to provide some clips to illustrate this. No need to go over what's been said before as I've studied those threads, but I'd love to hear a counterargument

There are only (3) rules of plumbing: 1. **** flows downhill 2. Payday is on Friday 3. Don’t bite your fingernails Bill 313

For fun here's a clip of the suspension. Unsteady cam as I was hand holding while driving. Most of the trip was like this, pretty uneventful. Like I mentioned it took a good hour of keeping my eye on it for a pattern to emerge, which is the suspension is doing it's job, but it looks undersprung. Also when there is a pothole it just rattles the heck out of the suspension and over all there appears to be very little making it to the trailer. Not seeing any flex or vibrations in the panels. Taking my last trip with the Dexter this week before I install the Alcan. I have a mount setup I think and will try to catch some 'money shots' 😅 SuspensionClip.mp4

So? What's the "problem"? They got the water hose OVER the electric cord, they got the sewer hose positioned such that it has a "P" trap. Everything is nicely coiled so as to reduce tripping hazzards.

You've lost a ground connection! There are several yellow "home-run" ground conductors in the space behind the master switch panel. Each of them splits off to feed various circuits including a ground wire to each of the switches for the LED indicators. It's a tangled mess of yellow wires and splices in that space, and the loss of one of those ground connections could cause all the symptoms you described. Start from a switch where the LED is not working, and trace its yellow wire to the multi wire splice. Use the ohm or continuity setting on your multimeter to verify there is continuity to ground. See the post titled "I was awakened by flashing blue lights!" to see a picture of those ground splices, and to see how each switch has a yellow ground wire for the LED indicator. Also note that some of those ground splices are jumpered together. If you fed your LevelMate (+) from the hot side of the awning switch, then I assume that you probably tapped into one of those grounds for the (-). If that's true, then that splice would be a prime suspect! Hope that helps! Cheers, Geoff

Well yeah! I can only imagine what is going on at the dump station!

Complete Victron, yeah! 😎

Apparently this is how you’re supposed to set up a sewer hose support Bill 313

Chris, I wrote about this in my install thread. You can keep the tray if you remove it first and machine cut the steel back wall off the tray and reinstall. The inside battery would hang an inch off but I believe Steve told me they added a longer base sheet inside the tray. Either way 3 in line will just barely fit inside. Notice the change in direction of the straps to hold three together on the tray. Too bad they didn’t show this part of the installation in the video. I was going this route but after removing my old tray, the sliders were crusty and the tray itself weighs 30 LBS. I prefer it without the tray which allows for 2-3” extra height too. I can check/tighten the bolts and remove the main ground as they sit on 3/4” rubber and foam insulation surround. With the tray, it has to be rolled out for battery post inspection or disconnect.

I see Steve was able to fit three 300ah batteries into his tray. Didn't you have to remove yours to make them fit? Different size trays, or did battery dimensions change?

It’s easy to test for voltage on either side of the awning switch. Your LevelMatePRO has been working, so it should be wired to the right side. Where is the LevelMatePRO grounded? You have an odd set of lights out, others working. I don’t believe they’re wired like Christmas lights! See if a ground came loose common to all dead circuits. A ground that’s open will not blow fuses and your fuses are good. Good luck with it and let us know.

Copy/pasting reply from FB Thanks John. We’re only out for a few days, so I’m going to wait until we get home to try tracking down the fault with my good meter instead of the $10 travel one. I know the fuse is good, because the other lights on the circuit work. Yes, the blue indicator light are what I’m referring to, plus’s the upper cabinet lights. It’s most likely a wire disconnected somewhere. I had the switch panel by the door out, and the access port behind. Tugging on wires didn’t result in anything loose, but it could also be a bad switch. It’s just odd that some indicator lights work and others don’t. And on that the indicators that don’t work, the device they operate do function correctly except the upper cabinets. They all worked two days ago, so something bounced loose or failed while on the road.

Yes, and they just look better in white!

Welcome to the Big Boy club! 🤣 Three (3) Forum members now have 900 Ah Epoch (one with 920). 🤠