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Thanks Dan for linking this video! I don't look much at the new models and this is a nice presentation, just 7 minutes long! Also no sour beans here, from someone who spent 2 years restoring a 2016 model! We will not be a new Oliver customer, just continue to upgrade and fully enjoy ours. They are really going with a Dometic A/C?!? 🤣 In all these years, still at the bottom of this learning curve. Looks like all the Truma issues will be behind OTT going forward. I'd have to use the awning more than 5 times in 2 years with all that solar up there! I wonder how practical this will be? Must be a heavy awning! We need all LP appliances to work effectively in altitudes up to 10K ft, a must for Colorado travel and elsewhere in the Rockies. 20A on a built-in DC-DC charger, but using the 12 AWG trailer wiring? OMG, you're not going to get 20A and if you do be worried about the wiring! I'll keep our Victron Orion 50A charger, that averages +40 Ah every hour towing. One very knowledge Forum member argued that the 4 AWG wire I used may be too light! You might get +10A on average with this configuration. This leads to OTT sticking with the Xantrex and Lithionics brands. This is not new! Almost everybody on this forum that has added or replaced an inverter has gone to the Victron Multiplus, most with the MP2. I do remember reading one post where a Xantrex was used to replace a FAILED Xantrex. Given the failure, I would have changed brands, but I believe it was chosen to simplify the installation with like kind. There are 100s of posts here citing Xantrex issues. And with all the new LiFePO4 batteries in the marketplace, a new quality brand at a better price point could be chosen. You'll get used to knowing your tank levels. More accurate, yeah sure, we've heard that one before! 🤣 That's what they said about our external tank monitors. We have learned very well how many days it takes us to fill our black and gray tanks. We're not ready for composting, the pee and poop handling, but it is the black tank that makes us return to the dump station! Gray water can be dumped on BLM and FS lands, so we can last a while leaving with 70 gallons fresh. I can guess exactly when we need fresh water, just before the water pump starts gurgling! Then we refill, from our auxiliary tank in the pickup bed. I have seriously not looked at that tank level display in two years, just don't need to. Windows? There are many here that truly dislike the current windows. Some leak when it rains and some have lost their seal between the panes. Our windows are in like new condition, no defects to date, knocking on wood. I enjoy the one-hand operation, especially when lying in bed. Awning windows, something else to worry about in high winds and rain? And if left open at all, even one inch when away, a thief could easily rip the window off and enter the cabin interior. I also do not like how they stick out on the exterior, where our windows are recessed into the hull, flush so taking no wind. We usually close our windows when towing, but if you forget these, there will be damage. I do really like the trimline blinds as the old-style sticks out almost 3" into the cabin interior. One gets in my way when I'm in bed. Our blinds need another hosing down this summer, Like I did when we first purchased our Oliver used My favorite part is the new kitchen counter setup. The new sink and cooktop looks great! However for boondocking, I'm not sure the compressor fridge and induction cooktop are preferable, appliances that cannot operate on AC/DC and LP. But with 900 Ah, oh what the heck! Chris loves cooking with induction, so we have a single-burner cooktop we plugin indoors or out (search for keyword 'induction'). For 2027, did they fix the cramped bathroom countertop/sink? Someday, I'll fix both, like Mike did for their kitchen:

Oliver is dedicated to continuous improvement, I like a lot of the changes. I think stepping away from Truma appliances is a good thing. I'd feel more confident traveling knowing that parts and service are more likely to be available for the new appliances. An integrated DC to DC converter is a great addition as well.

There is an adjustment for that. There should be a description as to how to make that adjustment in your "Oliver Standard Components Manual".

I have full XPEL PPF in stealth satin/gloss on my M3 with XPEL XR Plus tint 70/20. First place I took it after pick up was the detail shop. Also, have gloss bra coverage on the Tundra as well. Did you ever post about the PPF install on your Oliver? If you did, I must of missed it. It is great stuff, along with ceramic coatings, tint, etc. CGI is using another brand but still top tier PPF. Nice find on the 2020 Tundra PRO BTW, very popular move these days.

Yep - James Oliver constructed the spice rack/paper towel holder for the very first Oliver made way back when - see below.

Certainly not right. I would fully extend and retract your awning a couple times to see if you can get it to kick into place (hearing your "clunk"). If it stays out, I would tie it up on that end or both ends prior to traveling at highway speeds. Our Fiamma manual awning does not fully engage on the rear when closed. We travel with this strap in place. There is also a recent thread on this:

Spice drawer! Surely somebody figured this out but here's my solution, 3 oz jars. Stainless lids and nice thick glass. Holds 1/2-3/4 of a typical store bought which is plenty. There are the only ones I could find that fit height wise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX8S1Z7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797LHWYK

my 2c That Dometic cabin heater style exhaust can have issues at high elevations I believe, there's a high elevation exhaust you should install when in the mountains (according to videos I've seen on this type - may not be true for this model). I've got an unused one if 2027 owners want one 🙂 "Soft main cabin lights" - did they change that? Anyhow actinic bright overheads on the main cabin fan, I'd rather do without Ironically they show the new solar awnings in partial shade which takes down the whole panel, unless they have a sectioned panel with micros (unlikely). I think getting to deploy these and work will be the main issue. Anyhow I'm surprised at how well that 400W does, doing 1.2kWh on a good day easy Why did they change the front (and rear?) jack? Personally I prefer the old one, 500 lb upgrade isn't much to speak of and not font of bubble switches. The older one looks better and more businesslike IMO More accurate tank readings is a big plus Mentioned before I'm not fond of the 'fully open' style new window. Looks like you have to open the screens potentially letting bugs in (and they'll do it!), plus two handed operation. Fully open is nice for a house but don't see the need here, just IMO Anyhow looks like a great trailer as usual and it's not sour beans because I bought a 26, but full honestly I do prefer this years model, except on the tank monitering

We are on the road, maybe another day to home. I don't use our awning very much because it seems there is always too much wind and it retracts on its own. I do put it out from time to time just to make sure it is working and to let it air out after a rain. I put it out this morning. Left it out for an hour or two and put it back in. When it went in I did not hear that little clunk as it finished retracting. Looking at the front of the awning it looks like it is not going all the way in, maybe lacks a half inch or so. The first pic shows it out. The second pic show the back of the waning. It is all the way in. The last pic show me pushing the front in. It goes in with a push. Am I imagining this? Or is it not right? Lastly, am I OK driving another 600 miles home with it out like that? Maybe the most important question is; Can you tell me how to fix it? Thanks

I am glad the CGI crew is now offering PPF on the front of Olivers. We have had XPEL PPF on the “blast zones” on the of our Oliver to include the dog house, aka LP surround and all the way down each side under the bottom edges of both sides of our Oliver. We have had it for several years now and it has really worked as advertised. Shortly after we took delivery of Hull #634 we had 10 mil XPEL paint protection installed. Here is a photo of our installer working his magic. The standard paint protection used on most cars and trucks today is 8 mil. The 10 mil material is naturally thicker and it’s really tough material. It’s presently the thickest p/p made by XPEL. So far, it’s held up great with no damage to our gelcoat. It’s fairly expensive to have installed, but well worth it in our experience. We use a product called Plexus to keep it clean and polished up. Our installers business name is Sun Stoppers located in Cornelius, NC. Also, we have PPF on all our vehicles. The 8 mil still offers robust protection from road rash, missiles etc. https://www.xpel.com This same fella installed 8 mil XPEL PPF on our entire Super Duty just after we purchased it in 2021. It was well worth the money and has kept our TV paint chip free 5 yrs later. If you trade vehicles every few years it may not be worth the expense. We tend to keep our cars and trucks for the long haul. I recently found and purchased a one owner, NC dealer serviced 2020 Toyota TRD Pro. It is in really excellent condition. So I took it to my XPEL PPF tech to let him work his magic. I could not be happier with his work as he exceeded my expectations. It’s all about the install and the installer. A few things to note: if you take it to an installer make sure you don’t have any paint chips on the areas you want protected by PPF. If any installer wants to cover areas on your truck or car with PPF with existing paint chips…in my opinion, you have the wrong installer. Find an installer that does high-end Teslas, Lexus, Benz, Lambos, Bentleys etc. After having a complete paint correction done, I had the headlights, front and rear bumpers, trim below the headlights, the painted grill surround, windshield pillars all covered in 8mil XPEL PPF. The prior owner already had the entire hood and mirror caps covered. The larger the surface area you cover, the higher the cost. I like XPEL PPF as it is hydrophobic and just repels dirt and dust with ease. You can also ceramic coat over XPEL PPF. ** Prices vary on installation, so its best if you’re considering PPF to get a quote from your local installer. My XPEL PPF installers shop 3 weeks ago. I also had XPEL 50% tint installed on the interior front w/s. A game changer in reducing heat and dangerous UV rays into the cabin. Note; check your State DMV on tint % laws. Post PPF install.

Thanks for the help everyone. I unplugged the rj45 plug behind the white connector and plugged it back in. Then I did the same to the one under the heater, The two wires going into the splitter and the one going out. Then I did the same to the rj45 connectors in the overhead behind the control panel. Turned the power switch outside back on. Ensured the switch on the heater was on. Turned on the control panel, went to settings, and reset. Still does not recognize the heater or hot water. I placed a ticket with Oliver.

I had Suncoast Designers rebuild three of my windows several years ago and they did a good job. They remove the entire window, completely disassembled it, disassembled the individual sections, fixed the seal, and reassembled everything and put the whole assembly back in the trailer. They rebuilt both the fixed and the movable sections in order to provide a complete lifetime warranty. Complete disassembly of the frame requires the astragal to be removed by drilling out the pop rivets and replaced with gaskets and pop rivets again. If only the moving panel needs to be fixed, that is easily removed by removing the plastic/rubber track material first then the window just lifts out. After they removed, rebuilt and replaced the windows I had to reseal the frame to trailer myself. Not inexpensive but at the time I had mine done they had a lifetime warranty. If you can rebuild them soon, before any etching takes place between the panels, they can reuse the original glass. They have a fairly large parking lot and nearly every spot has electricity and water so that you can stay in your camper. Also, there used to be a guy at Quartzsite during the big tent rv show that would rebuild windows but you had to remove your own windows and deliver them to him. I have never met him but I know of a couple of Oliver owners who have had windows fixed by him.

Probably talking about this place- Suncoast Designers. Haven't used them myself, but I have heard good things about them. They provide a lifetime guarantee to the original owner too.

I wonder if the 2022 models can be fitted with the 2027 windows...

I Just recently had CGI do the annual touchup on my camper and they told me about a new service they are offering. It is a durable protective gloss film that they apply to the front of the camper. Might be a nice thing to have if you like getting off the beaten path (gravel roads, ALCAN Hwy, etc.), it would help protect the gelcoat from chips and make it easier to keep clean as well. Lasts 5-7 years or more typically and is generally easy to remove/replace. Not cheap but makes life easier and protects your investment. Short video link: IMG_8147.MOV

For the water heater w255w indicates the outside switch is off. w255h could simply indicate there’s no power to the furnace. Check your fuses and circuit breakers.

Most window shops will not handle RV windows. This happened in a bad way to the Bigfoot we had, where the vacuum seal between the pains had shrunk, cracked and moisture got inside clouding it up. I found a shop in Mesa AZ that specialized in this, but sold the RV before I had any work done. Yes, the entire window assembly is removed. Then they disassemble the frame to remove the glass sections and strip the seals along the edges, between the panes. They clean the glass thoroughly, seal the two glass pains, rebuild the window assembly and reinstall. At the time 4 years ago they charged $90 a panel which is a great price if you only have a few, but gets expensive for a lot of panels. Between Mesa and Apache Junction AZ is one of the RV capitals of the country. There are several hundred RV dealers, 100s more service centers, parts distributors, etc. RV business is big here. Maybe unlikely to have this kind of service company in Maine and other small markets, but worth asking at some of your local RV shops. I'll locate their contact info if anybody is coming out this way next season and is interested. I did replace the glass on our main living room window on the bigfoot instead. Bigfoot service gave me contact info to the window manufacturer and I was able to buy glass panels, the fuzzy liners, rubber borders, etc. Maybe Lippert service with the ID tag Bill showed, replacement panels and parts can be purchased. You must remove the blinds, then all interior screws to remove the interior section. Then the window is removed from the outside. Get some putty knifes under the outer lip to cut and loosen the butyl. Once the entire window assembly is removed, you will find small set screws holding the frame together and the stationery glass in place. It's a bit of work. Of course, have the parts or a way to reseal the double pains first. Take pics as you go. Clean everything in and out. Reassembly should be straightforward using new butyl for the main seal.

We had the same thing happen. I called service and got a spare but this was last year. I would try asking again.

Oliver windows, how I hate them let me count the ways. Like others here I am now searching for replacements for the original windows. The only good thing I can say about them is they let a certain amount of light in along with an equal amount of water when it rains or snows. Otherwise they are a relic out of the early part of the 20th century. Just spent part of the last week cleaning and disassembly only for it to rain the next day with leaks galore coming into the cabin. Pipe cleaner wicking had no effect whatsoever. New mattress was soaked. Imagine buying a $100K car or truck and having to deal with such nonsense. I don't have a solution yet but am searching. To the OP I imagine one would have to completely take the entire window assembly out of the cabin to remove the stationary portion of the window. Surely a local window and glass business could repair one of the components if taken out of the Oliver and delivered to them? Good luck @dewdev with your repairs.

First thing I did was to replace the TV with a 32” 4K monitor, sound bar, and Blu-ray player in the attic, all Samsung, my brand of choice. Love your thrift store finds! We use the Furrion for occasional FM radio, CDs and Bluetooth. I disconnected the HDMI from Furrion to the TV. When it goes, I should make the space into a cabinet since ours has the huge cutout for the older DV1200 model.

Additional information on our 2015 LE2: Contacted Oliver and they said my window is a Lippert brand and they gave me this link: https://support.lci1.com/8800-series-windows Here's a photo of one of the identification tag on one of our windows: Started searching on the Lippert website, if I find good video for window removal, I will post it.

We had the Furrion DV1230 in our LE2 and it failed after about three seasons. We mostly play DVDs as we’re often in no-signal areas. Basically, the CD/DVD drive failed. Founds an exact replacement on Amazon (where all good things come from) and dropped it right in. With the full-sized remote, it seemed like we were back in business. Passing through some town a few months ago, we found a complete 8-season DVD set of the West Wing at a church thrift store in Pagosa Springs, CO. While I wasn’t a rabid fan, it looked too good to pass up. $10 for the whole 30+ DVD set(!) We enjoyed the whole first season in about 4 days. We had a small about of skipping and drop-outs that I attributed to scratched or dirty discs. Hitting season two - I couldn’t get any of the discs -except- the “special features” ones to play at all in the Furrion. That was true for all the remaining seasons. My brain started working. On a hunch - we visited another thrift store in Washington, UT and bought a used/donated Sanyo Blu-Ray/DVD player for $7. Another $2 bought an HDMI cable. Hooked it up to an unused HDMI port on the ROKU/OON television we replaced the original on with. EVERY disc played perfectly! Verdict: If you didn’t’ have enough to dislike about the Furrion DV1260 - add to it that it won’t play some DVDs. I’m guessing this has to do with the “multi-layer” technology of some high-capacity DVDs. The Sanyo Blu-Ray player now resides in the cabinet above the television. The remote even works through the translucent cabinet door. Cool! Im debating mounting the player under the cabinet above and to the left of the television. That will make changing discs a lot easier. I can likely use 3M “Command” strips to mount it without drilling and keep it damage-free.

@dewdev , I have a different reason to remove the glass, but have the same question on how to remove the glass. Believe the previous owner might have put darker tint on Ollie's windows, now they have etched window spots. I'm thinking about replacing them. Thanks for starting the thread!

Looks like the RAM REV 1500 (Range-Extended EV) or whatever they’re calling it this week - won’t be hitting the dealers until closer to 1Q27. I was hoping to have an option for when I’m ready to trade in the 2025 Sierra Denali. I like to trade vehicles while they’re still worth something. Though - seems the rig I have is still the most efficient one available - and I’m getting great mileage. Which is nice thanks to the $6+ a gallon diesel. (Considerably higher in touristy areas!)

Try a PM to SeaDawg. I know that she had this issue and a "local" (Florida) place solved the issue for her. Bill