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Just to give everyone the heads up... We finally hired me some help and we are in the process of building a new forum that works faster and better. We are migrating posts, attachments, etc. now and should launch it first of next week. It will use the same logins everyone has now. It will not be much different, but will be faster and have all the tools need for moderators to ban/delete users and posts.

I spoke with a representative at Oliver today and expressed concerns about several things including the difficulties a lot of folks are experiencing with the forum. I was told that Matt (and perhaps others) are working on developing a new forum. I asked if they were planing to use new software not based on WordPress and was told that 'the goal was to make it like other forums'. I'm not sure if this means there will be new software or not. It sure would be nice to get to a standard software format that most everybody else uses. Escape, Fiberglass RV and Airstream use vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1 Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. The Casita Club Forum and Casita Travel Trailer Forum use Community Forum Software by IP.Board. My personal favorite is vBulletin. I really hope that this is the case because there are people that have joined and then could not get on as well as folks that have become dismayed at the difficulties and just gave up. The forum is absolutely Oliver's best and cheapest advertisement and information dissemination service. At the very least it should be user friendly and fun.

Hi Matt, Thank you for all your good work. Just one thought. Kelly in the sales office might want to consider an email notice which she would send out to all the owners and prospective owners regarding the great news on the "new and improved" forum platform. Most members who might have dropped out would probably appreciate the heads-up. It sure doesn't hurt. Buzzy

Steve, That is great news concerning a possible replacement for the WordPress platform. The current performance can be very discouraging, especially for new users. I am sure OTT understands how our Forum is more than simply a platform for exchanging ideas. It forms the basis for a community. RVing in many ways is a community based activity. We enjoy sharing ideas across a whole spectrum of camping activities and styles. For many owners, the community involvement aspects are as important as owning an Ollie. Although our Forum is special in many ways, it is not unique. As new or existing members experience continuous system issues, they may just move on to another community. Perhaps to a larger community with more ideas. I believe it is the ideas which draw members into the community. If posting or exchanging ideas is cumbersome at best, there is no reason for involvement. Once we stabilize our Forum platform, we might begin a discussion regarding Forum content. Great content, which is thoughtfully organized for easy retrieval, can elevate our Forum. As a case in point, I really appreciate the new category Jason has created entitled, “Oliver Technical Service Bulletins”. I am also looking forward to the day when OTT creates a category containing the OTT videos. Posting in those sections would always draw me into our Forum. It might be wise to reach out to our members to determine what draws them into our Forum? What do they seek? What format do they prefer, text/photos/video? Maybe we would benefit from a designated “library” of word documents, videos, maybe interior design photos, etc. As we integrate ideas regarding content and format, I bet some members might enjoy focusing their energy over refreshing the content for a designated category. Just a few thoughts. Buzzy

We used to use a more standard forum based software. We had a lot of spamming, but it was more user friendly, for sure. I still can't post from WiFi FiOS on my phone. I waste a lot of data... I try to toggle back and forth from WiFi to read, data to post, and then forget. So, if in in an are where data is expensive, like last month in Cuba, I just have to disappear. I hope it all gets worked out. The old phbb format worked great for me. <p style="text-align: left;">Sherry</p>

The frosted glass in the bathroom window doesn't do a lot of good when the window is open. In thinking about that over the winter and seeing what I had laying around the workshop, I came up with an inexpensive easy curtain rod. Using a 3/8 inch wooden dowel rod (cut it to whatever width you wish since the newer Elite II models have a slightly larger window) slide on two 3/8 inch plastic/nylon wire hangers. On each end place a "Closet-Maid" large plastic end cap - these fit very tightly so it helps a bit to first round off the edges of the ends of the wooden dowel. Finally, using "Command strip" decorating clips attach to the wire hangers - this takes a bit of fiddling in that these fit fairly tightly - and stick it to the wall. Of course it helps to put curtain material of your choice on the rod first. Bill

Cool, but I discourage the use of wood here. It will absorb water and discolor, maybe even mildew. How about a section of aluminum or stainless tubing instead, or a fiberglass driveway reflector rod? John Davies Spokane WA

I will chime in on this posting and say that I would love to see any kind of improvement. If it takes new software to accomplish this, so be it. With that said, since Steve is retired and has nothing else to do, I think he would be a great person to take the lead on this mission. Further more, Buzzy would make a fine First Lieutenant. Remember, with this mission and rank, the pay grade would be the envy of us all. Not! Just kidding, but thank you Steve for starting the discussion and to you Buzzy for your words that do speak to what a forum could and should be about. A side note, today is the day I have worked toward for 42 years. March 31st - Retirement Day! Pick up "Olivia" Hull # 204 April 12th. Malcolm M.

TaDaaaaaaaaa! Way to go, Matt!! Looking forward to the new forum platform with real moderator tools in case the forum ever gets bitten in the future. Good job . . .

Hi Canoe12, I understand your concerns. For what it is worth, I can share some of my experiences. · I did not receive any photos of my Ollie during the build process. I think that was common with Ollies built prior to June 2016. As the sales office got busy (A good thing!) that action stopped from what I could determine. · Although it would be good to think the sales staff and factory staff have regular interactions and communication, that may not be happening. At least that was the impression I received during my build cycle. · Please understand a custom-built TT is very much like a custom-built house. You may discover a few “Oops!” during your delivery day. Because that may happen, it is always best to allow at least two full days to determine what might need fine tuning. · I completely understand the added complexity being a long-distance buyer adds to the equation. In many ways, OTT is a small company with a local view. They do build a damn good trailer and they seem to be able to sell on a national level in-spite of the current processes. · My recommendation is to inspect your Ollie from top to bottom and use a methodical process for checking each system. The factory staff are great and they will rectify any errors! · The process outlined above worked for me although my purchase cycle was a real nail biter! Buzzy

Malcolm, First off, congratulations on reaching your goal of retirement. That is a major milestone in life. I began my retirement two years ago, and I understand the rewards and challenges which lay ahead for you. By the way, I have always enjoyed reading your thoughtful postings. As you contemplate new ways to acquire and share knowledge, I hope postings on our Forum will become routine for you in your “golden years”. ???? Seriously, I can list at least a dozen topics I am hoping you will consider. Many of your experiences could aid both prospective and existing owners. I would love to hear about your experiences during your purchase cycle, your delivery day, your interior décor plans, your first three planned modifications, your planned camping trips, etc., etc. You could demonstrate how Forum members do not need to be experienced Ollie owners to add content. You just need to speak to what you know best, which is your own unique experiences. It is the richness of shared experiences which adds value. From that collection, we each harvest ideas which enhance our Ollie camping. Will you enhance my camping? ???? Will you give it a go? Buzzy

That is a horrible attempt at a half assed fix, the first time I'm disappointed by them. Both pieces to the resolution are fixed with no play, there is no room for anything being off in the slightest and that one is supposed to hit both drawers. This may be a pain in the ass to deal with but you should pick up some of THESE, if you attach one on each side of that strip, in the back, with the corresponding plate on the back of the drawer that should hold them closed. The magnet mount screws are elongated for adjustment and the magnets float in the frame for some play, so if everything isn't straight they can still make full contact. There are some stronger ones listed that are a little more expensive. If the clearance on either side of the drawer is at least 1/2 inch, I would really consider replacing those slides with the side mounts, but that's just me.

Knowledge Base Article for Zamp Solar ZS-30A Charge Controller The Zamp Solar 30 Amp 5 Stage Digital Deluxe Solar Charge Controller # ZS-30A has PWM or Pulse Width Modulation, which is a digital signal that is used to control power applications and has 5 stages of charging for best battery health and longevity. This controller can support and is programmable for the 4 typical types of deep cycle batteries – WET, GEL, AGM and Calcium. We pre-set the controller at the factory according to what batteries are installed. 12 volt solar charging power. LCD screen displays battery voltage, charging current, charging capacity, battery types and faulty codes. LED light indicators show charging status and battery condition. 5 stages of charging: Level 1 – Soft Charge – When batteries suffer an over-discharge, the controller will softly ramp the battery voltage up to 10V. Level 2 – Bulk Charge – Maximum current until batteries rise to Absorption Level. Level 3 – Absorption Charge – Constant voltage charging (battery is over 85%). This stage takes longer than any other stage to complete. You will typically see your battery status remain in this stage unless you are not using the camper. The full battery indicator is about the last 2% and while running lights and other components it will remain in the absorption stage. *Battery volts displayed during this stage are charging volts not actual battery volts. Level 4 – Equalization Charge – Only for WET battery or Calcium battery type. When the battery is deeply drained below 10V, it will automatically run this stage to bring the internal cells to equal states and fully complement the loss of capacity. (Gel and AGM batteries do not run Equalization Charge). Level 5 – Float Charge – Battery is fully charged and maintained at a safe level. Fully charge is more than 13.6V. Includes a port for an optional external battery temperature sensor. Zamp Charge Controller & Digital Monitoring System (Battery Volts) Both systems will display charging volts rather than actual battery volts when power is being supplied to the batteries. Customer interaction The charge controller has 2 buttons. One button labeled Amp/Volts can be used to scroll through relevant information Amp/Volt Button Current battery volts or charging volts Current Amps being supplied to the battery (Initial startup will be lower amps and slowly increase to maximum output depending on sunlight available. Current total of Amp Hours supplied within the 24 hour timeframe. This setting will reset with every 24 hour period. Current Battery Temperature. (Displayed in Celsius). This is used by the charge controller to monitor the battery. Battery Type Button This is pre-set at the factory based on the type of batteries installed and should only be changed if you replace your batteries with a different battery type. Zamp Error Codes: P01 - Solar Panel Reverse Connection P02 - Solar Panel Over Voltage 601 - Battery Disconnected or less than 3.0 Volts 602 - Battery Reverse Connection 603 - Battery Over Voltage (> 17.5 Volts) 604 - Battery Temperature over 65C

What is Galvanic Reaction? - When two dissimilar metals are in contact and exposed to an electrolyte substance it causes one of the metals to lose ions and slowly consumes that metal. - It works much like a battery. One of the metals will become and act like an Anode(Negative) and the other a Cathode(Positive). This process will slowly consume the Anode and actually strengthen the Cathode. - Galvanic reaction occurs when an electrolyte combines with water. Depending on which electrolyte is present, it will completely(strong) or partially (weak) ionize with the water to form a strong or weak electrolyte substance. What is an electrolyte substance? Strong Acids Examples: Hydrochloric Acid, Sulfuric Acid, and other Acids Strong Bases Examples: Sodium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide, and other Hydroxides. Salts Sodium Chloride Winter Road Treatment: - Different cities utilize a handful of different chemicals to treat roadways for ice. Most of these are from a form of chloride which does become an electrolyte once dissolved with water. TIP: It is always a good idea to clean these chemicals from any vehicle and/or camper when possible. What type of impact does this play on Aluminum? - When oxygen is present (in water), aluminum naturally reacts to form aluminum oxide and this is the key to its ability to resist corrosion. Unless exposed to a substance or condition in which destroys the protective layer, aluminum will remain resistant to corrosion. - When aluminum contacts another metal(steel for example), it sets in place the possibility of a galvanic reaction if an electrolyte substance comes in contact with the metals. What does Oliver do to prevent this natural process? A protective layer, cavity spray, is placed between the two metals. Zinc anodes are attached to the aluminum frame The Zinc becomes the anode part of the equation and if the galvanic reaction process takes place, it will consume the Zinc anode instead of the aluminum frame. How often should I check my Anodes? - Depending on where you live or where you travel you may or may not even have a galvanic reaction but it is still a good idea to inspect your anodes at least once a year and more if you start to notice that the anode is deteriorating.

Torque Specifications WHEEL LUG NUTS: 90 - 120ft lbs. Note: Oliver has set 110ft lbs as the standard as of 2023 year models & older. BULLDOG COUPLER: 80 ft lbs AXLE/U-BOLTS: 70 ft lbs SHACKLE BOLTS: 40 ft lbs