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We have solar. We have the Zamp controller. Evidently it was changed and put in because it is simple to use. I like that and it works very well. I do not plan on going into any controller and squeezing the last amp out. We had it put in so that solar would work for us, not the other way around. Guess the KISS principle at work. We went with the standard counters. The "upgrades" are the same material just prettier and sit on top of the standard. I figure the wood panels can be refinished by me if I cut or burned them by accident. We just take extra care to protect our counters with cutting boards. If you notice, any Oliver put on the classified area, doesn't stay unsold long. With that in mind we wanted to make sure that we maintained its greatest resale value. We figured the best way was to maintain standard items of the most demand. Instant hot water sounded great, but we have never run out with a standard unit. $$$ saved. Standard toilet has never let us down.. more $$$ saved. Standard counter. $$$ saved. Standard fabrics have served us and our traveling companion very well. Choices we guess would depend on how you plan to use the unit.

I got curious. I went out and plowed a path to the camper, as I was going to use the tailgate to stand on. (Actually being lazy, and didn't want to carry a ladder down there). It looks like the deer will appreciate the exposed grass because I could see where they have been digging to get to it. Anyway, went in and checked the gauge. It was showing 12.6V, the batteries were 3/4 charged and the panels were putting out a charge. The panels were still covered by 4 to 6" of snow and a sheet of a little more than a 1/4" of white ice. With the truck snowbush we were able to clear most of one panel. Rather than use the other devices we decided to see how productive the units were only partially clear. I went in as soon as we cleared most of the panel and nothing had yet changed. Still putting out. At a midday peak of about 22 degrees I don't expect much melting, but to have it charging when snow covered was a pleasant surprise. It looks like the factory set up was a great choice, at least for me. I have a 20 amp plug not 30' away, but I have not plugged in since bringing it home. Guess we want to see what all our options are when on the road. Hope another fear alleviated...

This truck is very cool, has a tuned diesel with big turbo, built transmission, 1 ton drivetrain and wheels, 4wd, and you can have it for $135k. https://jalopnik.com/how-to-build-the-chevy-suburban-diesel-that-gm-wont-sel-1821199538 I reckon it would pull an Olle OK.... but they never mentioned the actual tow rating. John Davies Spokane WA

I've been using cushions to keep the drawers from opening until today... Yesterday I found the magnets that I've been looking for at Ace Hardware, they are 07217, 25lb magnets made by "The Magnet Source". They're more then strong enough to hold the drawers closed by themselves and they fit the original strike plates installed in the Oliver's perfectly. I had thought originally about just doubling up on the original magnets until I saw these Yesterday. I just had to mark and lower the middle and bottom drawer screws on mine, the top drawer lined right up. I had some good 1/2" sheet metal screws with a socket head that made them easy to install and though it says that it will hold 25lbs, it's maybe 6lbs of pull to open the drawers. So they are snug but still easily opened by anyone. Here's more pics and a pic of both the old and the new... major difference. I ended up screwing them in all of the way and then backing them out 1/2 a turn. I also adjusted the strike plates out enough to hit the magnets and hold solid. We will be heading down a washboard road here in a day or so to really put them thru the test... Well, I will be going really slow anyway... but still :) Reed

Last year was my first winter with Ollie, and I worried a great deal about the AGM batteries. My trailer is in covered storage, so no solar, and no electricity to maintain charge. I finally decided to install a battery disconnect switch, to eliminate all of the parasitic draws on the battery. Worked fine for me last winter. When I came to visit Ollie in the spring, the batteries had full power. I now routinely disconnect the batteries every time I put the unit into storage, even between trips during the summer. Do you need to maintain power during storage? You could simply disconnect the battery cable.

I used to use those bars in my old campers that had bigger fridges and they worked great. With using the bars I seldom had to worry about that first opening of the fridge door after setting up and finding a third of my fridge contents falling out onto the floor. However, with the smaller fridge in the Oliver I usually have it fairly well packed and there is little shifting of the contents. But, I still use the bars if I plan on heading down rough roads or if I have the fridge lightly packed. Bill

I've used this RF (wireless) brake controller since picking up my Elite II in March 2016. My experience was a little different from David's. Oliver actually purchased the controller and installed it before I arrived to pick up my Ollie. I tow with VW Touareg TDI and the pairing process wasn't difficult. I've towed many miles using this brake controller and I'm completely satisfied. While I've had some issues with the hand-control unit that you plug into the 12 volt receptacle (I think that's what we used to call the cigarette lighter receptacle), Tekonsha's customer service has been outstanding. They've replaced that hand-held unit quickly and without fuss at no charge twice. Note that the brake control works even if the hand-held unit isn't plugged in or isn't working. The hand-held unit is necessary, however, to adjust the braking level and you can also use it to apply the trailer brakes independently of the TV brakes to tame sway. I've never had to use mine for that purpose. Don

The Power Module is attached to the aluminum frame, below the fiberglass housing for the propane tanks (the nose cone?)

If you have multiple tow vehicles, then this RF controller might be a wonderful tool, but I too have reservations about using wireless control of brakes. Wireless (Bluetooth especially) has improved greatly over the last few years BUT the devices may be susceptible to connectivity issues, and outright failures due to voltage spikes. The trailer brake system is just too important to make compromises in terms of reliability. If you have several TVs, go for it, if not wire in a new Prodigy P3. There is a Tekonsha Toyota plug and play adapter harness for about $20, if your Sequoia is fairly recent. I'm not sure where the factory connector is in your truck, on the Land Cruiser 200 and Tundra it is located under the dash, far left side. It can be a little hard to spot.... The hardest part is locating a place to mount it that won't be in the way. Toyota forums might give you some ideas about that. BTW, you will love the way your Ollie pulls behind the truck, IF it has the 5.7 drivetrain.... It's a beast. My Land Cruiser does great. If you have an older 4.7 truck, then it is going to be very inadequate. You will definitely need the Anderson hitch, unless you want to beef up the rear suspension and shocks. You might want to change the tires for beefier 10 ply All Terrains. That will provide noticeably more stability when towing on twisty roads and when maneuvering. The OEM tires on these Toyota SUVs are too squishy, and are very vulnerable to sidewall damage off pavement. Have you selected your graphics? If your Sequoia is white, consider no graphics at all: John Davies Spokane WA

Bill- Thank you. I think I am sticking with my ordered solar package for the main reason that while I am traveling from one destination to another and having to boondock in a Walmart or rest stop I do not want to have to get a solar suitcase out to charge my batteries. The only times I think I may need a portable solar suitcase is when I am in a lot of shade for days, but I can always buy a little Zamp suitcase and plug it into my (now-standard) solar ports. Correct?

Mmoren - The Oliver solar package works well for most people that have it. It will charge your batteries even in the shade - just not as much as it charges them while in full sun. It will also charge while you are rolling down the road and while stopped for lunch and while sitting in your drive and while being in a place where either you can't or don't want to put out "portable" panels and you don't have to store them, move them or (for the most part) worry about them. The bottom line is dependent on just how you plan to use you camper. There is a reason that the solar package is one of the more demanded items on Olivers, but, again, it depends on how you intend to use the camper. Bill

The Renogy Solar Suitcase doesn't need a port... It has its own controller built in and only costs a few hundred dollars. I have mine clipped right on to the battery and the wire runs safely out the battery door, no need for drilling, no need for any Zamp port or any different wiring. Having a fixed system that can't be pointed at the sun isn't getting the most bang for your buck :) I will take some better pictures after the sun comes up here in a couple hours. I simply clipped on the battery clips, then closed the door and locked it. Then I have a safety cable padlocking it to the trailer so it won't walk off. I'm in a safe place, but I bought the cable and it's part of the system.

Recon, Our journey was Casita, Oliver LE II, Airstream International. We truly loved our Ollie but it became a bit small for us in advanced age and with joint issues. We also love the Airstream, but if Oliver ever makes an affordable 28 footer I will be first in line. Fiberglass over aluminum any day. If you search my user name you will read more about my rationale for switching. In a word...size does matter.