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Carol and I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy Camping in the new year! Mike

Update - They did get the replacement unit FedExed in and I was able to pick the trailer up yesterday afternoon. They fixed a few other small things on my list but I'm taking it back in January to get the trailer 'finished'. So in the end I think it's the same story as always - Oliver is staffed by good people who genuinely want to make a nice trailer and keep their customers happy, but it feels like basic management mistakes on the front end cause them to go to extraordinary lengths to do so. And that leaves us customers with this mixed bag of feelings about the company. I'm truly grateful that they are willing to go to such lengths, but it would be such a better owner experience if they didn't have to in the first place. I've got a few items on my list to do to the trailer today and then we're headed out this evening for Christmas with the in-laws and then to Big Bend. It'll be a big week there so fingers crossed that we can get a good campsite.

That’s what I love about this forum. A member has an issue and immediately the members provide solutions to the problem. Got to love the Oliver gang it also helps me when I have a problem and I remember the discussions here at the forum. And since they are all specific to Oliver’s it better than looking for solutions somewhere else.

Honestly, because Oliver's cabinet maker didn't install the hold down bar behind the drawers correctly, all of the 2017 models need to be checked. They put a #8 screw through the 1/8" piece of fiberboard with nothing else to back it up, leaving the 1x2 loose on the bottom and its 1-1/2" air gap from the base was simply put, poor workmanship, so the screw pulled itself out way back when the drawers all fell out because that little screw in the low density fiberboard had no chance of ever holding even empty drawers closed with nothing to hold on too... Then being coupled with the small magnets being misaligned and not ever matched up to hit the strike plates, they were a complete failure from the day they were built. With the magnet bar now locked in place, coupled with the right magnets, the drawers once again work as originally designed. They are self closing and they lock in place without the need for the straps. Plus, the strength can be easily adjusted for each drawer by simply moving the magnets either up or down or in and out a touch with the screw for fine tuning. This is the right fix, simple, easy and out of sight. It works perfectly. Reed

Used a small spanner wrench to get the aerator out. Then I took apart the handle and blew compressed air into the small holes behind the cartridge where the handle goes. Of course I disconnected the hot water hose behind the drawers. A small bunch of gunk from the heater rod came out. Aerator screen was also completely blocked. Thanks again for all the help. Now I need to service the water heater.

Knowledge Base Article for proper Winterization - Depending on your location it may be necessary to properly winterize your unit to ensure that freezing conditions do not damage any part of the on board water systems. First lets discuss what components are susceptible to freeze damage which would result in water leaks and potential costly service repairs. Brass Check Valves - These valves are in-line valves that keep water from spilling back out of the water fill ports. These valves will be located on the Fresh Water Line, City Connection Line and the Black Tank Flush Line. Plastic Check Valve - The Dometic Standard toilet has a plastic check valve located at the rear of the toilet. Water Valves - These valves are used to control the flow of water. You may have 2 or 4 valves located next to the water pump, 1 located on the lower shell floor to drain the fresh tank, and 1 located on the black tank flush port line. P-Traps - These are used in the sink and shower drain plumbing lines. It retains water and traps debris that has drained from the sink and prevents it from forming a clog deep within the plumbing system, and stops sewer gases from passing into the camper. Water Pump & Filter - The water pump filter is used to trap debris and keep it from entering the pump and water line system that is delivered to the faucets. PEX Push Fittings - These fittings are used to connect different runs of pex pipe through out the camper. Pex itself is freeze tolerant but these plastic and/or brass fittings are not. Faucets - The kitchen, bathroom and external shower faucets all maintain water at the faucet when in use and thus present a potential freeze issue if not properly winterized. Water Heaters - All water heaters should be fully drained of all water and the bypass valve must be set to winterization/bypass mode. This allows for RV antifreeze to be utilized in the plumbing system without filling the water heater itself. *Proper winterization method to ensure that all components are protected. Drain all water from the system (All tanks, water heaters) Set bypass valve at water heater for winterization mode. Change valve configuration at water pump for winterization mode. Use water pump to draw RV Antifreeze (potable Safe) into the camper. Turn on the kitchen faucet (Cold Line) and run until antifreeze comes out. Change to the Hot line and run until antifreeze comes out. Perform steps 5-6 for the bath faucet. Ensure plenty of antifreeze drains into the P-Traps for the kitchen, bath and shower drains. Flush the toilet until antifreeze starts to fill the bowl. Leave antifreeze in bowl to lubricate seal. Turn off water pump. Connect hand pump with antifreeze to the fresh tank fill connection. Pump at least 3- 4 times. Antifreeze is potable safe and will not hurt if it goes into the fresh tank. Connect hand pump with antifreeze to city connection line, turn external shower cold line on and pump until antifreeze comes through shower faucet. *TIP: It will be hard to pump in the city line if the faucets are closed. Turn cold line off and hot line on, pump until antifreeze comes through shower faucet. Connect hand pump and antifreeze to black tank flush port. (You may have to go inside and turn the in-line valve open to allow the antifreeze to freely pump into the tank. *One pump should be sufficient as we are only protecting the check valve. For 2018 Models and newer you will need 4 pumps to sufficiently protect the new flush port system. This change was put in place to meet new codes for the black tank system ensuring that no backflow of waste water can get inside the water supply line. If you are not certain if your camper is equipped with this new port then pump 4 times to be on the safe side.) FAQs The camper can be used in cold weather applications as long as the furnace is utilized to keep the components warm and above freezing temperatures. If traveling between camp sites during cold weather season it may be necessary to winterize depending on outside temperatures. If water is left in the water heater during freezing temperatures even for short periods of time, it can cause damage. RV Antifreeze is designed to replace water and should NEVER be mixed with water as diluting it will defeat its purpose. 2016-Prior-Elite-II-Valve-Configuration.pdf 2017-Current-Valve-Configuration-Sheet.pdf 18.5-Elite-2017-Current-Valve-Configuration.pdf

During the long wait for pick up day I admit to spending a lot of time lurking on the Oliver forum - so much great info and experience, thank you so much for all your contributions! But as a newbie to towing and trailer camping, somewhere in that process I began to get very anxious about the learning curve we were facing. There was so much discussion about the different systems and modifications and configuration options and work arounds and etc etc - all of it great info btw, this is not a complaint in any way - but it was all so foreign to me that I began to form the impression that this new life we were embarking upon was going to be a lot of work. It didn't take long in our Ollie for that anxiety to melt away. This trailer has everything we need and then some. Lights? Flip a switch. Hot water? Turn on the faucet. Below freezing outside? The furnace works great. Everything you need is there and easy to use out of the box. Yes, you do need to learn the systems...but not overnight. Over the last month we've slowly made our way further away from the mothership as we gained confidence in the abilities of both ourselves and our new trailer. The wealth of info in the forum has been an invaluable resource as we figure out how it all works and get our travel legs built up. But I'm very happy to report that nothing yet has felt like hard work...and that anxiety? Disappeared before we checked out of Fall Hollow after our first weekend:) We're Greg and Theresa Kopish, we'll be posting as Grumble and Twist. Looking forward to meeting you all at the rally in May! Twist

Merry Christmas from all of us at Oliver Travel Trailers! At Christmas, all roads lead home.

The correct socket size is 1 1/16 inches, best to use a six point socket, also I am not sure of the torque specs.

That depends - Obviously if you have "sealed" batteries not only do you not add water, there isn't even a place where you can add it. If you have the Trojan 105 lead acid batteries and have the Trojan watering system then you follow the instructions that came with the watering system (it really is great and easy to use). If you do not have the Trojan watering system then you must add water the old fashion way - lift open the covers on each of the batteries, add water to the bottom of the split ring and then reinstall the covers. Usually you do not have to move or remove and of the battery cables to do this, but, you may have to unbuckle the battery retaining straps. Bill

The photo in 2008 (when we bought ours) showed the bladder on the cab in the website, but I wouldn't travel outside the campground with 40 gallons of water on the cab...Like you, ee've always carried the bladder in the truck bed. Thanks for the update. Sherry