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Thank you everyone for your input and support for the Oliver brand! We will be looking for products and distribution over the next few weeks. We will more than likely have some Oliver maintenance products as well... wheel bearing kits, Truma Decalcification Tablets, etc. I'm sorry to say we won't have anything available until after Father's Day but we will have something up in the next month or so!

Readjust the latch, to compress the gasket better. There are two nuts holding the latch in position, loosen the outer nut so the latch can move, then screw the inner nut closer to the compartment door, and then retighten the outer nut back against it. Don't over do it, experiment until you get it right. Steve

We picked up our Oliver on Monday and drove/camped our way back to Colorado, arriving back home today. Thanks to everyone on this forum for so much valuable information - it made packing for the trip much easier. We love our new Oliver! Alison

I too found a large gap in the bottom seal, letting in dust and spray... I added a strip of 1/4 inch black high density foam rubber weather seal there, from Lowes. I also tightened the latch about a half turn. Be sure to seal the entire section of piano hinge, plus the open gap at the front. I think maybe they wanted to leave a way for water dripping out of the shower area to escape....? Even sealed up pretty tightly, I think enough would trickle out to alert you of a plumbing problem. Plus water trickling out after you use it will run down the inside of the door, instead of down through the open hinge, so leave the head hanging to the front until it has quit. Mudflaps on the trailer will help too, and if extended up to the underside of the hull, they are extremely effective in keeping road debris from eroding and contaminating your fresh water connections. Why they leave these completely exposed to road damage baffles me. At the very least they need a stainless guard/ deflector in front of them. This shows the mudflap, before I added the extra foam over the hinge. I positioned the rubber so it comes up to the hull. In the first pic, the door has flexed the flap forward a little http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-rear-mud-flaps-for-the-ollie/ EDIT: found a pic of the dust entry, before sealing. John Davies Spokane WA

I only put the Reflextic over the area that was already covered by that white insulation that was installed by Oliver. The weather stripping filled in the gaps that Bill & Martha show in the picture plus I simply continued with that same stripping all the way around - just because. Bill

Looking closer at your picture, I see what your talking about with the bottom corner of the door with no gasket in place, I just walked out and checked mine, it's the same as yours. I haven't had the amount of leakage as you're experiencing. Adding gasket material like bill did would seem to be the best fix, but I don't know about reflectix, automotive weather stripping would seem to be more appropriate.

I never had the "problem" that it seems you've got, but, I did add an extra layer of insulation and some extra weather strip in that area - mostly just because I had it laying around. The insulation I used was Reflextic https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-48-Inch-10-Feet-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1528721831&sr=8-2&keywords=reflextic+insulation&dpID=31Io%252BmGxiWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch And the weatherstrip was closed cell foam from Walmart. That basement door was a bit tight just after I added these things, but, now it is snug and nothing gets in there. Only downside is that the aluminum facing on the Reflextic leaves marks on the shower compartment door. Bill

With the little yellow tester we also have a 30/15 amp adapter. In some pedestals (campground power pole) the 30 amp and 15/20 amp have separate breakers or feeds. One might work, but the other might not. The tester with adapter is a quick way to be sure. We keep it in the door of the tow vehicle so that it is quick and easily accessible, especially at set up. Many times, especially in some of the older campgrounds here in the east, we have been able to help our fellow campers with the little yellow tester.

The little yellow tester lets you test at the pedistal. If everything there is ok you know the problem is with your trailer. If it is not ok you know it imediately, and you don't have to in to read the meter. If it is ok, then check the plug at the trailer end. On the way by look at the microwave, if it is on you are ok. If not, check the GFI, it is the most common spot to trip. I have the portable Progressive to protect my trailer, but use the little yellow tester first. It has also helped protect the Progressive. I know a fulltimer that has had to have his replaced/repaired twice. He now checks his pedistal with the little yellow tester before plugging in...

For the most part we are really spontaneous and don't always look ahead of time at places to camp and most of the time we simply use "Trip Adviser" or "Yelp"when looking for a place. But then there's times when you just want to get away and really all that you need is a map. So I go to http://www.mylandmatters.org/ and download the USGS map that I want for that particular area. There are simple tutorials for this on YouTube but here's a quick run down 1st click the "Maps" button in the menu Then today we'll select "Recreation"first and it then opens the drop down menu below it and we're selecting "Topo Maps"this time but there's a ton of great maps on here and if you're a miner like I am then this place is my 2nd home - After Selecting this you click on the + button and then you can either keep hitting the + inside the map in the area that you want or I simply form a rectangle around the area that I want to see and let it enlarge that way on its own. To make a rectangle just put your pointer in the lower right hand section of where you want to enlarge and then drag it up and left to form whatever size area. Today we're going to Hohenwald - You can see the green and then look for state parks, etc. You can drag the map by hitting the button with the 4 arrows pointing in 4 directions then just drag the map up/ down/ etc... The arrows are above the most important button, which is the "i" or information button - After finding the area that you want the map of, you simply click the "i" and then click on your spot on the map and it will open the menu on the left in the picture above. Then simply download the map and open it up and you have the USGS Map of that area right in front of you - I zoomed in at the bottom so you could see the edge and also Hohenwald. Then I saw the green US Forest areas and picked one, the Laurel Hill Lake State Rec area and then typed that area into found a place to check out for the evening. Then we Googled Laurel Hill Lake and the rest is up to you. There's a ton of info all across the United States and this gives you a place to start. Honestly though it all starts with having a good GPS in your Vehicle. You can find them for under $200 in many stores - https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Nuvi-2589LMT-North-America/dp/B00N41UTCG/ref=sr_1_6?s=gps&ie=UTF8&qid=1482271268&sr=1-6&keywords=garmin+gps Reed

Can anyone give my clear instructions on how to lubricate the power jacks on a 2017 Elite II? I have gone online and found these "Owner's Instructions" (They seem to be instructions for one with a different color--white--but otherwise seem to refer to the same jack.): https://www.barkermfg.com/uploads/5/4/9/4/54943161/hiperf3000.pdf The instructions about lubrication state this: Once a year, the powerhead should be removed and a liberal amount of grease (preferably a grease with high melting point) applied directly to the coupling on which the drive pin rests. However, it is not clear to me from the diagrams provided in these instructions where that drive pin is or the coupling on which it rests. The instructions also state this: Once a year, the housing cover should be removed and the gears inspected for proper lubrication. Remove 4 screws and tap around edge of housing to free cover. DO NOT insert screw driver blade! (This may damage mating surfaces.) Before replacing cover, clean mating surfaces. If lubrication is needed, use Mobilith 460 grease or equivalent. I have not attempted to remove the cover yet, hoping to get clearer instructions before I take the thing apart. I am also not clear if the Mobilith 460 grease is the same as the "grease with high melting point" mentioned in the first paragraph about applying grease "directly to the coupling on which the drive pin rests." In addition, I wonder about how to lubricate the rear power jacks. What might help me the most are photos or a video of someone accessing the areas of the jacks that need to be lubricated. Clear instructions and advice on the type(s) of grease needed to apply to those areas, at least, should help.

Spike - Does this post help you any? http://olivertraveltrailers.com/reply/125366/

Thanks, Bill, for your encouragement. Yes, I hope to be able to complete as many of the maintenance tasks as possible myself, and I AM a bit mechanically challenged. I'm sure someone on the forum has greased their jacks before and could give me clearer instructions than I get from the manufacturer. I would also think that others on the forum could benefit from those instructions. I DID find a video online of a guy demonstrating how to grease a hand-cranked trailer jack, but it did not seem very applicable to the Ollie power jacks.

If you decide to go to Gold Park take water with you as the only water available is what you would get out of the creek. Also,, if you hike up to Missouri Lakes be advised that the lakes up there are filled with brook trout - easy to catch especially at the inlet to the main (furthest west) lake. Some of the largest Marmots I've ever seen up there and there are almost always mountain goats up on the Missouri pass. Site 7 is the best if you can get it. Bill p.s. Mike and Carol are in Crested Butte right now if you have any pointers for them.

Spike - I can't give you what I think you seek, but I can tell you that the jacks in the rear are the same as the jack in the front. And, yes, those instructions are the same for the "old" white jack and the "new" black jack. Also, you are to be commended for taking the bull by the horns and tackling these maintenance chores. Generally they are not difficult, but, for those that have not been down that road before and/or are somewhat mechanically challenged these jobs can seem much more difficult than they really are. Obviously, the best way to get knowledge is to ask the questions (like you are), and, then get out there and "just do it". Bill

Really nice that your trip seemed to be without and major troubles. Its obvious that the humans like the Oliver, but, what about the pup? One of my favorite campgrounds in Colorado is Gold Park (about 45 minutes south, southwest of Vail). Its small (14 sites) and gets full on weekends but the Homestake creek is right there and there are some great hikes very close (Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake trails). Keep us posted on your adventures! Bill

Congratulations and welcome to the Oliver family. We got back from a monthlong trip a couple weeks ago and had someone follow us through town to our home, excited to see an Oliver. Happy camping.

What fun! We took that trip from Hohenwald THROUGH Colorado to Arizona with our new Ollie exactly one year ago. Enjoy.

Fixed your first pic.... Your daughter has a delightful smile, how does she like the Ollie? Welcome to the Oliver Family. We are headed to western CO in less than a month, we will explore the Ouray area for a week, then head north to Black Canyon and Dinosaur NM, I can’t wait! Where will you folks be then? John Davies Spokane WA

If you have TPMS you can screw a sender onto the spare, but that doesn’t help if you want to actually gauge it or add air. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O2S8M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have used these for decades in cars with a spare buried under the trunk. They need changing after maybe five or six years since they tend to develop a slow leak through aging of the rubber. I don’t use a tire cover, but this will be equally useful if you do, you can route it down into the rear compartment and check pressure by dropping the bumper. Or leave it poking out from under the cover down low at the top of the bumper area. I secured it to the wheel hardware, and added my TPMS sender onto the end. You still need to take a look under the cover routinely, to make sure all is well. At around 40 inches it is a little long for my setup, if there is a shorter one, please post a link. John Davies Spokane WA

The "little yellow tester" https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1528641968&sr=8-36&keywords=circuit+tester

The easiest way to start figuring out what is wrong is to read the code on the Progressive's readout. No light on the display is probably a lost/open neutral. Error code of "E1" is a polarity problem while "E2" is an open ground. I do not have the rest of the codes handy at he moment, but, those are the most likely ones. Bill

Do you have one of those little yellow testers? Or a meter? It could be as simple as an open ground or reversed polarity at the pedestal. Progressive shuts down for that...

Unfortunately almost all the accessible free public lands are west of the Mississippi R, the eastern lands are mostly National Parks or highly commercialized resort style campgrounds with no boondocking. When most of the rural land is private, you find it posted and often gated off for any casual visitors. Add in the high population density, and the result is few available sites. Some National Parks and Monuments, such as Big Bend and Escalante, do offer dispersed camping at marked locations, but discourage random boondocking. The western National Forests and the vast areas of BLM land are pretty much wide open for this, if you can find a big enough wide spot, you are usually OK to spend the night there Texas is a prime example of bad planning... Just after statehood the new government opened almost all land for private development, probably as a buffer against Mexico, saving very little for the future public. Now there are vast primitive areas, but they are mostly private farms and ranches, with no public access. I like Texas, but this is an idiot situation, unless you happen to own a 10,000 acre ranch. This is just one of many reasons we fled from TN in 1981 and never looked back. If you really want to boondock, other than parking lots, plan on lots of high mileage days to get there, or sell your home and move west. Utah would be a good central location. You could boondock in spectacular scenery the rest of your life and never leave the state. The West Coast has great opportunities, but due to high population, in season many camping spots are very hard to find without a reservation. If you live within two hours of Puget Sound, you can just forget camping without a reservation from June through August. I moved from there too, 14 years ago. I do strongly suggest reviewing sat imagery before venturing down any uncertain road, to make sure there is a turnaround..... or hike it first! For a long road trip, if we have several fixed destinations, I will spend many hours studying the Ultimate Campground app and Google Earth (higher definition imagery than most nav apps, and the wonderful 3D tilt) and I will waypoint with comments all possible free or low cost camping locations close to the route, on GAIA, so en route we can easily find a spot when we start to get tired. Do your researching when you have extra time and fast wifi, rather than when cruising down a remote highway, with spotty cell reception and an expensive data plan. Use a good nav app and download the maps and images you need, before leaving home! John Davies Spokane WA

Yes, I have noticed that also. So, those folks are sort of “tailgating” while looking at an Oliver, so they are “Olliegating”. And when they pass you and give you a thumbs up (salutation) that is an “Ollietation”.?