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The only time I've had trouble with propane is when I've turned the valve to open it too fast. Once I bought the GenConnex kit for my generator, their instructions explicitly state not to open it too fast, I never knew, I haven't had a problem since. Maybe you just overwhelmed the pressure switch is my guess.

Actually the specs say 1600 pound payload, and that is supposed to stay the same regardless of trim level. Many Jeeps end up with bigger tires that kill power, plus a few hundred pounds of heavy duty chassis armor, bumpers, winches, racks, jerry cans etc etc, so it will really help to have the little cushion that the 1600 pound figure gives. This truck is going to need more ground clearance if taken offroad. The breakover angle is appallingly bad due to the really long wheelbase. Getting it raised up by taller springs and larger tires will lessen that problem. A big plus for the Rubicon with its lower gearing and taller factory ride height.... One thing that really appeals to me about the big Power Wagon is that the moderate payload already factors in the mass of a factory winch, lockers, lift, big tires, armor etc. So you don’t have to worry about losing any payload by adding those features. The Gladiator Rubicon is a similar vehicle in that respect. Good article here: http://www.fourwheeler.com/news/1811-the-new-jeep-2020-gladiator-pickup-revealed/ John Davies Spokane WA

Hyper vent off the WWW - $12 foot at 40 inches wide - 12 feet is $144 plus shipping, and you would still have to cut to dimension and install. Seems Oliver has fairly priced the option. I don't yet have an opinion on the need to use an air barrier under my mattress. RB

That's a fair price. I think I paid ~$100 for the material. I would have paid $180 to avoid the hassle of cutting/shaping it myself.

I don't know about the comparison but Oliver is charging $269 for Hypervent on the standard floorplan and $179 on the twin.

Hello All, This is Kim and Travis, originally from Oklahoma and Iowa respectively, we have both lived in Charlotte since the late 90's. We have a 15 year old son that is quickly getting way to popular for us, and two small Boston's that get us out on a walk pretty much every night. I grew up camping with extended my extended family in tents, popups and various campers, but wasn't quite sure what my wife would say 5 years ago when I showed her a picture of an orange Marmot tent. Well, that tent has served us well, many great memories...but, last week we sent in our deposit for an Elite II and we sure are excited! This will be our first travel trailer. We asked Heather for a late June delivery date. We are hoping the schedule holds, and we learn enough about the Oliver to camp our way back to Charlotte through the 4th of July weekend. We have already booked our first RV spot at Cloudland Canyon State Park in GA. I have been following this forum for a bit over a year and like many others, also want to thank everyone for the wealth of information (and sometimes entertainment :). This forum has certainly been a benefit to me in making a decision on a camper and if I can remember half of what I have read, I imagine it will help keep us safe, functioning and enjoying our time out of the city. I am sure we will have questions, so thank you in advance. I enjoy a different perspective, or a straight out correction. Take care, Travis

While in the fuse box check the fuse installed to the diagram on the door. I found a couple that were to small. That said, I am hoping the diagram was right. Another note was a 2 amp fuse for back up, and no one had one. We ordered 5 for the tool box...

Already got a 27 year old snow blower - got it out of the garage a couple of days ago and with a short shot of starting fluid into the carb it fired right up. Bring it on! Bill p.s. a normal winter's snowfall for this town is right at 6 inches. The current forecast is calling for between 6 and 18 inches. If that happens can I count on Santa to bring no more snow for the rest of the winter?

The fuse box is of poor quality and this is a common problem. I have had issues twice with power to the fridge. The cause is, as you found out, due to weak prongs in the sockets, that do not grasp the fuse tabs very well. If you are careless when inserting a fuse it can spread the prongs and then you get an intermittent or non-existent connection. Solution 1: carefully remove ALL fuses, squeeze the prongs back together slightly, and carefully reinsert the fuses straight in without rocking. Insulated mini needle nose pliers are useful. Don't short anything out! You might want to disconnect the batteries to be safe, but I never bother. Solution 2: Replace the entire converter/ fuse box/ breaker box assembly with a better quality unit. That is pretty drastic. I have not yet reached that point, but I may do this one day. I do not understand why Oliver uses this unit instead of a more reliable one. I also do not understand why the fuse door hinge is not reversible. It is TRULY a HUGE PITA to have the door swing toward you. As far as "resetting" the furnace when it runs out of gas, you just need to cycle it a few times. Even that is usually not needed unless you removed a bottle and got some air in the line. You can also turn on and click a burner on the range until you see a flame. That will purge any air out of the line so the furnace can light off. If the gas pressure drops too far, the appliances will quit. As soon as the new bottle is selected and the pressure comes back up, they all should operate normally. Good luck. Pass your fuse problem on to the factory using the Service Request page so they can keep up with this issue. You might want to consider a backup electric heat source if you have shore power, set to a lower temperature, and maybe a remote temp alarm (cellular or bluetooth) that connects yo your phone, so that you will know immediately if something has gone wrong. Something like this which is on my Wish List: ... https://www.amazon.com/SensorPush-Wireless-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Android/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1487193255&sr=8-2&keywords=SensorPush+Wireless+Thermometer+/+Hygrometer&linkCode=sl1&tag=newwweather-20&linkId=4cf6a5e3a8dbe2e30859502d67de972c John Davies Spokane WA

That’s what my friends and family are saying about anyone (like me) who buys an Ollie instead of some cheaper trailer. ?

Looking for input. I have the front cargo tray and twin 30 bottles. With full propane the tongue weight is 720 lbs with a full load of gas and water in jerry cans. This is using a Shurline 1000 pound tongue scale. I use an Andersen and 10 or 12 psi in the rear airbags. No worries. If I build a rear frame mounted cargo rack like the factory units, bolt my Ollie cargo tray to it and carry the full cans back there, the tongue weight should drop significantly. Say the rack weighs 20 pounds, the tray weighs 16 - I would remove 116 from the front and add 136 to the rear. Can someone tell me how much the ball weight would drop to, maybe 550? Have those of you who carry heavy ebikes or other stuff in back actually weighed your trailers tongues with a scale? I am trying to figure out what a safe minimum weight would be. If I can drop it significantly I might be able to eliminate the Andersen and pump my bags up to compensate. And use an offroad coupler. My truck is rated at 850 max tongue, dead weight. But it moves around too much the way it is now with the chains disconnected. Note I haven’t weighed the axles. I think the trailer weight is normally 6000 pounds with no extra fluids up front, so my current tongue weight is about 10%. I guess I could remove the tray this winter, shift it and the cans to the top of the rear bumper and weigh the tongue to see what happens, but I was hoping for an easy answer.... there is probably a formula involved. Thanks for any comments. John Davies Spokane WA O