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Spike, I guess you will need to answer that. Check your “ready to camp” tongue weight. If it is greater than what Toyota recommends then you’ll need a weight distribution hitch. Tongue weight should be tested with the camper on a level surface with the camper level as well, otherwise the axle springs will affect the reading. That is they will make the reading look greater or less than it really is. Ready to camp weight needs to include everything like water, food, clothing, everything. You can also weigh your ready to camp rig. I use the CAT scales. The truck front wheels go on one platform, truck rear wheels go on another platform and the trailer wheels go on the third platform. All these added up gives gross weight, that is truck and contents (including passengers), and camper and camper contents. This is all still really confusing to me but I think this will give all the information needed. This will tell you how much weight is on your trucks front and rear axles. To get true camper gross weight you’ll need to unhitch and let the camper free stand on one of the scale platforms. Any other input is appreciated. Hope this is of some help.

The OTT Sales, Delivery Team and Service staff are all very helpful, and I give them high marks. However, I suspect that most prospective OTT Owners spent far more time here on this Forum getting the info they need and want. I know this to be the case for me last winter and spring. This forum and the "Oliver University" (Located under the Travel Trailers tab), provided answers to my questions that can't possibly be covered in a brochure or sales web site. The OTT forum is graced to have eight designated "Moderators", and several hundred owners that give their time to share experiences and knowledge from an owner's perspective. None of us get paid to do so, it is simply the nature of our owners to willingly want to help out new and future owners. In one respect, I think that the owners take as much pride in our trailers as does the OTT team does in making them. To this owner, one of the aspects of the OTT Forum that is most valuable is the depth of experience that our fellow owners have. We may not all agree on everything, but odds are the person asking the question, and many of us newer owners as well, will get several wise and usable responses to a question. In reality, to just about any question imaginable. I know that this has been my experience and hope that it is yours as well. So, welcome to our forum and ask away. I think you will be amazed!

OLIVER FORUM GUIDELINES Welcome to the Oliver Forum, a great place for Oliver Travel Trailer owners and future owners to interact, share knowledge, solve problems, and most importantly, to develop friendships. Respectful and considerate responses help build this community. You’ll find a wealth of experiences here, and many owners willing to share their experiences. Have fun, but please keep others’ viewpoints in mind. Respectfully state your point, share your information, or ask your question. Keep it casual and friendly. Reread your post before you hit submit. Is it helpful? Thoughtful? Please try to stay on the original topic of the thread. Confusing the issue may cause the member’s original question to go unanswered. Start a new topic if you have a new question. It’s important for all members to have the environment and opportunity to contribute in a considerate manner, and to learn. Inflammatory and trolling comments shall be removed by a volunteer moderator. We encourage members to use the “REPORT” function (bottom right corner of each post) to help us, as we’re not reading every post, 24/7. If your post is removed, you’ll receive a PM about it. If there is a continuing problem, further action may be taken, up to and including your removal from the forum. Some inflammatory topics to avoid include religion and politics. We’re all about camping, and Oliver campers. Over the years, we’ve seen a few simple topics turn into heated debates. It’s natural to want to jump in, but honestly, it’s often better to let it go, and hit the report button, instead. We moderators are avid campers. Even as we write this, we are all out camping, some with limited bandwidth. We respond as quickly as we can, and the sooner we know, the better. Some have asked why our forum is linked to the Oliver website. Valid question. Since the beginning of our forum in 2008, Oliver Travel Trailers (OTT) has paid for our Oliver “sandbox”, including our web space and an administrator who knows way more than we do about maintaining the software, for which we are very grateful. OTT DOES NOT CENSOR OR INTERFERE with the moderators’ management of the forum content. Moderators are not employees of OTT. We are Ollie owners, and receive no remuneration. OTT does have a employee designated to read the forum for the purpose of improving the “Ollie Experience” for all, but that’s a few minutes a day in a busy job description. If you should ever have an issue or a warranty claim, call tech support. Your post might not be seen on the forum by an Oliver employee. With that in mind, we moderators ask you to communicate directly with the company and afford them an opportunity to satisfy any serious needs before flaming OTT on the forum. We are not asking that anything to be swept under the rug. Just, please, let Oliver Travel Trailers have the first shot to meet and exceed your expectations. Sometimes, communications here may be misinterpreted, because the written word just doesn’t carry the visual clues of face to face conversations. Should you believe a post is a little ill-mannered, consider the poster might be trying to be helpful, but isn’t able to put his or her words together the way you might. Forums work best when our skin tends to be a bit on the thicker side. Remember as well, whatever you post will likely be permanent, and picked up by automated internet software programs. Though this is our forum, it’s still on the world wide web. Our words may very well outlive us. Please, be especially patient with newbies. Our search feature is still being tweaked, and they may not have found an answer by simply using “Search”. You may remember your own newbie questions . . . of many years ago. If you have already answered the same newbie question as many times as you care to, relax and allow someone else to step up and reply. Help foster a community of teachers. We recommend all phone numbers and email addresses be sent in private messages and NOT posted. If you must post personal data, we suggest you post in a manner so trolling automated internet programs will not grab your personal information and use it nefariously. For instance, a phone number might be “8ThreeZero, 5one5, 9 2 eight seven”, or for an email address, something like “Bill DOT Fisher at flyboy DOT com”. Please reread this, and help us continue to make our forum a great place for everyone. We hope you enjoy our forum. Thank you, bugeyedriver, SeaDawg, ScubaRx, Mike and Carol, topgun2 , Mossemi Oliver Owner Moderator Team

I'd better disclose the real reason for looking for a disconnect solution: rambunctious grandchildren -- who cannot resist making a three ton egg move with a mere fingertip, especially when grandpa has just achieved a perfect level and has temporarily left ...

I don’t like your idea for a couple of reasons. The screw down wire connections are just not very good. They damage the wire strands and loosen over time. Plus getting the glass fuse out of that holder would still be difficult, and you run the risk of breaking it. I personally hate glass fuses. They don’t belong in the 21st Century IMHO. My suggestion is to replace the MDL fuses with modern Slo Blo Maxi blade fuses. https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-MAX30BP-Slo-Blo-Automotive-Blade/dp/B07DMR4F33?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Kingopt-Opt-43/dp/B00030CPOQ/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_all_spx_wp_0_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00030CPOQ&pd_rd_r=bef2f751-e11b-49a7-b10b-8b16273098ee&pd_rd_w=HIwes&pd_rd_wg=IJWq3&pf_rd_p=be1fc0a3-5323-42ce-8eda-5c75d301717d&pf_rd_r=S6M9062KWZD7EPFKP4SJ&psc=1&refRID=S6M9062KWZD7EPFKP4SJ You could instead go with a big automotive style fuse block, but that would be a much more involved project I think. But it would look very slick! Here is a tech page for the fuses. https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/blade-fuses/littelfuse_maxi_32v_datasheet.pdf They are more expensive than MDLs but normally they will never ever blow unless there is a problem with the jack. You can’t find slo blo MDLs stocked on any auto parts display, so you might as well go with these, which ARE commonly found at any NAPA, since they are a normal auto fuse for modern cars. You can safely pull these Maxi fuses from the holder using a small pair of flat nose pliers, but without disconnecting the batteries it is a little risky if you drop them onto an exposed terminal or bus bar! A plastic Maxi fuse puller is a better choice. I don’t know if Amazon carries these..... but your local NAPA could get one for you easily. https://www.delcity.net/store/Maxi-&-Mini-Fuse-Pullers/p_795485.h_795490 If you want to cut the dust covers off that would be fine. If you decide to also change the fourth fuse at the tongue jack (did you know about that one?), keep the cover and also use some silicone electrical grease on the terminals to prevent corrosion. I hope that helped. John Davies Spokane WA

The first picture is the refrigerator defrost drain.

We did change our cushions out so we could use them for our occasional twin bed conversion. We stayed with the medium density to match the mattresses. It doesn’t seem like it would be difficult to change to a firm density. If you are not changing the fabric covering it’s just a matter of cutting the foam. Easy do-it-yourself or any upholsterer could do it. Mike

The second pic is the fresh water overflow. If you hook up to a city water supply and fill the fresh tank you will know it is full when you hear/see the overflow from there. We’ve never winterized, so no advice there. Mike

Bigfoot makes a very nice trailer. You’d get more living space and a dry bath if you went with the 25 foot model. Lance is one of the better stick built trailers but is entirely different from the Oliver and Bigfoot. With the Oliver you get a double hull, smaller footprint than a Bigfoot, and more dry camping capability. Oliver also has great factory support and a growing user community that is available to help when needed. There seems to be a surge of used Olivers for sale right now, it might be a good opportunity to get one without waiting. Mike

We’ve used front hitches on all our tow vehicles since 2007 for all the same reasons as everyone else. One saved our bacon down a narrow road in West Virginia.

I had a parkit360 that I bought and later sold for same money on Craig’s list. Can’t remember what model it was, but it couldn’t hardly move my old 3,500 lb hybrid trailer on the slight incline in my driveway, so I thought I might as well sell it off. It wasn’t going to have a chance with our new Elite II. After selling the Parkit360 I bought a front mount hitch for our 2013 Land Cruiser. It was an easy install that took only about 30 minutes. Inexpensive too, barely over $100. The winter storage spot I have for our Oliver is up a steep driveway, around the side of the garage, through another bend, before ending under a carport attached to an outbuilding. This fall was the first time I used a front mount hitch to put the Oliver to bed for the winter. My son was spotting from the top of a ladder to make sure I didn’t hit anything on the roof of the Oliver on the underside of the carport. My father and wife were watching the sides of the camper and the building since my view from behind the wheel is obviously very obstructed. It didn’t take long to move the camper into position, probably the quickest I’ve ever done in the 14 years I parked various campers in the same spot. I did get out a few times to look at the progress with my own eyes. All three of the spotters kept giving me the thumbs up, so I just kept moving. Positioning the trailer around the garage, into the back yard, and under the carport was EASY with the front hitch. The fit is so tight, but was so under control, that I’m going to need to unscrew the lightbulbs that hang down from the carport ceiling so I don’t break them off on the top of the Oliver on the way out. My spotters guided me around them on the way in. Everything was that close. And all easily done with the front hitch on the Land Cruiser. Unfortunately the front hitch hangs down so low I’m going to need to temporarily remove it for two 4x4 trips planned to Utah and Colorado this year. I’m sure it’ll drag when drving off improved roads. HTH, Ken

I have a 2015 Toyota Tundra Limited, 5.7L, 4WD double cab, with LEER cap, and will pickup Oliver in April 2019. This afternoon I created the attached spreadsheet to help me check my own situation (it is raining in FL, so, nothing better to do today). There is a good chance the sheet is created incorrectly, or the inputs are wrong - I would appreciate a critical look over. If my sheet is correct, my Tundra GVWR (7100lbs) is within 25lbs of the Gross Vehicle Weight (people, cargo, hitch, tongue weight). Too close. I am seriously considering going truck shopping.

I also tow with a 2016 Toyota Tundra 4x4 Crew Limited and have had no issues; and we have traveled all over the U.S.A. but I do use a Anderson WDH. I would not pull a trailer of this size with any type of vehicle without a WDH; we have owned several travel trailers and have used WDH's on each trailer. As for the 2016 Toyota Tundra maximum tongue weight is 980 lbs according to Toyota's Product Information Data Sheet.

There are three fat fused yellow wires coming off the DC bus under the street side bed, one runs to each jack motor. Install a 12 volt 30 amp relay in EACH circuit between fuse holder and the bus strip. https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Waterproof-Harness/dp/B01N66W2XF Run the three relay ground wires to a nearby ground. Run the three power (control) wires for the relays to one of the single SPST switch terminals. Run a fused (5 amp would be good) 12V power wire to the other terminal of the switch. When you flip the switch on, power flows to the relay coils, energizes them "Kachunk!" and allows all three jacks to work. Switch it off, and all jacks are stone dead. Do not try to do this with one switch but no relays, the current flow is way too high. But DC breakers as suggested above would also work. The downside of adding relays is that there could be a failure that prevented one jack from working. If that happened you would have to bypass the failed relay and put that jack circuit back the way it was. Or mount a spare relay right next to the other three and swap it out, which would be a two minute job. OR just remove all three fuses from the inline holders when the jacks are not needed. Adding relays sounds like a lot of work but it would be a simple and reliable mod. No worries if done correctly. This would be a great $100 Hidden Security option for the factory to offer. John Davies Spokane WA

Spike, The wife and I agree about the density of the cushions. We both bottom them out. I understand that happening for me at 235 lbs. but, she is 115 lbs. Anita from Oliver gave me the name and number of the upholsterer they use and suggested I contact him. His name is Richard Johnson (662) 706-1873. He is in Mississippi. I have yet to contact him but need to very quickly as we are a month out from the beginning of production of our Elite II. I am going to ask for either 1.5" of memory foam and 2.5" of a denser foam, than normally used, or just 4" if denser foam. When I call him, I will update you on what I find. If you call, please do the same. Andrew

I added a battery master disconnect switch under the dinette seat. I didn’t want to drill a one inch hole so I took out the USB outlet and used that hole for mounting. I grouped all three of the jack feed wires together and used no.6 welding cable as a main feed. Hopefully the photos show up below.

Hello Darrel and Kim: In a few short weeks I'll be doing my first de-winterization on an Elite II. I have not seen a written preocedure for this, but I bet the Owners have one. As you stated, after restoring the anode and valves to normal position, (the exception being the tank drain line), I am thinking: A. Set valves to City Water positions and connect to the city water port and flush the sinks, toilet and outside shower with city water. B. Set Valves to Boondocking positions and connect to the boondocking tank fill port and fresh that line to the pump, sinks, and outside shower all with the water tank drain valve open. C. Set Valves to Normal positions and connect to the fresh water tank fill port and purge the fresh water tank (Drain remains open). At this point I should be confident that all "Fill" lines or other lines are pretty well purged, the fresh water tank is purged, and as such the vast majority of the antifreeze is also purged. D. Then I will close the fresh water tank drain valve and flow water from the city water fill line to fill the tank. E. Redundant I know, but I'll then use the pump to flow water to the sinks, toilet and outside shower. Owners: What have I missed?

Consider it deleted - Bill

Spike - I know that Mike & Carol changed their cushions but am not sure if they changed the density. You might want to shoot them a PM. Bill

Wish I had a telescope--the night sky is amazing there. Binoculars are the best I can do. I did scope out some backcountry boondocking sites a couple of years ago and will probably try a couple after my 14-days at Chisos Basin are up. Forgot my passport two years ago. Won't make that mistake again. Now I carry my passport card at all times--I think it's adequate for border crossings into Mexico and Canada but I'll make sure of this before I leave. Looking forward to some warmer weather. I rode for a couple of hours in the snow on my fat bike today. It was around 5 degrees when I started and rode for a couple of hours with almost no increase in temperature. More snow coming tonight. We have over a foot on the ground. Nice soft, fluffy snow. Our backcountry trails here aren't groomed, but there have been enough people on the trails with fat bikes to make the ride enjoyable with a few falls :).

John, Thanks for the tip about the maps on the GAIA app. I love the National Geographic maps. I buy one for every National Park I hike in. Also, I carry a Spot when I hike and have a mount for it on my bikes. Essential for a solo hiker and mountain biker.

Yes, I've camped at Chisos Basin before. I was there for a couple of weeks two years ago. I have reservations for 14 days at Chisos Basin this time out. The road is tight, but I didn't have any issues getting to the campground or negotiating the very tight back-in space I had. This time I reserved a spot that will be much easier to deal with!

I'm not all that truck savvy, but I can report that we tow our Elite II with a 2013 5.7L Toyota Tundra, 4WD, crew-cab, with a Snug Top camper shell. We do not use the Anderson hitch. (Do have and appreciate the Hayes Sway Master for extra insurance.) We have towed much of the Mountain West and have absolutely no issues with sway or feeling underpowered even up the steepest grades. Photo is our Ollie and Stan up on Monarch Pass, Colorado.

Welcome, I know nothing at all of Bigfeet.... OTH are you aware that there are a number of used Ollies for sale here in the Classifieds? You could have one in a matter of days or weeks, not many months. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/oliver-campfire/classifieds/ John Davies Spokane WA