Leaderboard

Weight is a big deal at my age. 47 lbs compared to 74 lb is lot easier to handle. You have to hook it up and fuel it so you have to handle it. Smaller foot print, great propane conversion packages available, and it runs anything I need and barely ramps up even when our A/C starts with the easy start installed.

That is the correct picture for my adapter and trailer: I know it is correct because I hooked it up a few days ago. My trailer- hull # 218 - has a Furuno stainless marine 30a shore power connection. I can’t comment on what they are using now.OTH I don’t think they have changed. The twist to lock marine version is the very best variation you can have. The OTHER “upstream” end of my factory supplied 30A cable has the standard RV configuration. “...they can still become fire hazards simply by being inserted into a twist-lock receptacle without the added twist or engaging the locking ring. Those partially inserted plugs have been the source of many shore-power cord failures and several resulting fires.” https://www.cruisingworld.com/shore-power John Davies Spokane WA

The Yamaha 2400 comes with two 20A 110V outlets, you can use a 25' super heavy duty 15A style extension cord (10AWG wires) on one outlet with no worries and you can pull a constant 18 or 19 amps with this setup, with no signs of overheating whatsoever. If anyone offered a 20A rated extension cord, that would be better but I have never actually seen one.... The trailer to cord adapters are another story, the cheap ones can and do fail. I replaced my old generic 15 to 30 A adapter with this high quality Marinco one and it will hopefully be trouble free. It has a five year warranty, and that includes salt-water boat applications. It is visibly better put together with more features and it weighs more (heavier wires and connector pins). It has a thumb depression - position it at 1200 and the plug aligns with the socket perfectly - twist to lock, spin down the ring to secure it. The red LED is super bright to tell you the circuit is hot. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHZV54/?coliid=I105OLS3NXU8WE&colid=305M5TXY22I7S&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it John Davies Spokane WA

The ground bonding issue is with both models. I purchased the companion model first and do not require a second generator. The companion model has the heavy 30 amp three wire twist lock connector. To correct the bonding issue just purchase a 120 VAC standard three prong mile plug, then connect the neutral and ground post together; this will correct the generator grounding issue with the trailer.

We bought ours from Generator Depot for $899 when they had them on sale. No tax and free shipping https://www.electricgeneratordepot.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAy-_iBRAaEiwAYhSlA9OHZeFvA5PrJU10Bpex2Zsiq57mTmdTxy0_P2YJdwuy6h4e0esAPxoCSJoQAvD_BwE

Tom is correct. Both require an adapter, so the real question is whether you want to spend $100 more just to use (and carry) a different adapter. I also think someone posted about a problem bonding the ground and neutral on the companion model.

The 30 Amp plug on the companion model will still require a adaptor to plug your trailer 30 Amp plug into. The standard model has some features like 12 charging the companion does not have. Normally the companion is bought 2nd if you feel you need more power. We have the 2200 and have converted it with the Hutch Mountion propane conversion that allows you to run on either gas or propane. Great generator.

Mississippi River Arkansas Valley of Fire Nevada

No, I wouldn't agree, but then, quality is a subjective measurement to many. If one has truly gone through, with a keen eye for detail, several of the RV products touted as a quality product, most will prove to be cheaply made, thrown together, mass market representations of what a quality built RV would be, if it were an Oliver. Airstreams demand a premium price, but the real world experiences of their customers seem less inclined to support the notion. Option for option, the Airstream can't touch the Oliver's. I'll grant you their interior fabrics and such are appealing. Airstreams do well in a park and play world. Lots of miles, in and out of off the beaten path campgrounds, boondocking, and the like, are not their design intent. As far as your current TV, you are constrained by the vehicles specs. Can't get past them, real world, most tandem axle trailers, loaded as you indicated, are going to be on the bubble. Unless you go with a light weight - ultra light- and watch what you put in the TV. If as you say: I don't know how you get there, unless you go smaller, and as JD commented, the smaller Oliver would fit the bill. Physics is not a soft science. Wish you well in your search. RB

It’s doubtful that there’s any kinks in your cable. It there were, I don’t think you could have ever moved it. It only need lubricating. Disconnect the valve, pull the cable completely from the sheath, lube as it goes back in. You will never be able to properly lubricate the entire length without removing it and it’s a four handed effort. I’ve done it several times over the past ten years of ownership. It will be better than new. This is not an Oliver quality control issue. I doubt they are lubed very well when shipped.

Cptdondo, you are smart to do the math. Your stated load rating seems qute low. What year is your truck? Older pickups can’t carry squat compared to newer ones. My ‘06 Ram 3500 5.9 Cummins SRW 4wd had only a 2800 lb rating. The Gen 4 trucks carry lots more weight. If you load down both passenger compartment AND the bed, your truck has little or no room for the tongue load. My suspicions about folks towing the Elite II with a light duty pickup are: They are solo or travel very lightly loaded. They are over gross and don’t care. They are over gross and don’t yet know it. If you get a trailer with all the bells and whistles and you want to travel with full tanks, lots of personal items, cast iron pots, ammo, generator, tools, bikes, etc etc, you won’t like the way your truck drives. So, you can try to keep the trailer as light as possible, use an Anderson hitch always, and worry about it constantly, or get a bigger truck, use a dead weight hitch and load her down heavy, no worries. It is a dilemma many prospective RV buyers face. I tow with a Land Cruiser 200 (8500 lbs max/ 850 lbs tongue) and know I am close to maxing out the truck, but OTH the vehicle is so grossly overbuilt that I know it will take the load without any issues. I personally would never try to tow with a half ton pickup truck with similar load ratings. I would worry about busting the rear drivetrain. I expect to hear some dissenting opinions. Welcome to the forum. John Davies Spokane WA