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Made a whirlwind trip to Hohenwald and back this week and now have a deposit on an Elite 2 for delivery in mid-October. Started out our marriage as backpackers, then tent campers when our children were small, now embarking on new adventures in retirement. We are near Raleigh, NC.

The larger Ollie has been rumored for years but I don't think they have a definite timeline for introducing one (if ever). But you'd be surprised at how large the E2 lives for its size. I don't know what percentage of E2s out there are king bed, but it does seem like most people choose the twin. It's possible, and I don't think all that difficult, to convert one to the other though.

Ditto above. An example - the Weber Q series propane grills come with a regulator. They won’t work off the Oliver quick connect unless you remove the regulator and replace with a quick connect fitting. My Q1000 has been working fine off the quick connect. I have another propane grill but the regulator and hose are permanently mounted to the grill. So, if you get a low pressure stove with a built in regulator make sure you’ll be able to remove it. Mike

I think Oliver uses a good quality decal material on their trailers. I personally wanted to not go with the Oliver logo and have my own design to set our trailer apart from others. I like walking thru the camping grounds at rallies and find it easy to spot Oliver owners by their logo's and find it a opportunity to know who I will be meeting. Our logo pretty much says, Ft. Worth, Texas and that is our home state, are the Lone Star Travelers". trainman

We have a small mountain home outside of Maggie Valley NC that is a 1/4 mile from the Blue Ridge Pkwy. Western Carolina is filled with so many neat little towns that have their own uniqueness. Looking for elk around the Maggie, Cherokee and Cataloochee area makes for a great afternoon. Haywood BBQ in Waynesville, Dillsboro, and now in Franklin is some of the best BBQ east of the Mississippi. I always dread leaving when we have to leave and head back to Atlanta. We are blessed to spend time roaming around the mountains. Erv Carter

Looks like that's a Houghton Belaire 3400 - would be a little over $1,000 plus shipping from Australia, if you want to do it yourself. You'd need a 120/240 transformer. I assume that the $2,700 price is installed and warranted? The fact that they try to hide who makes it doesn't make me trust them that much.

Welcome to the forum - options really depend on your tastes and what type of camping you plan to do. Are you going to be boondocking much, or just stay at campgrounds with hookups? If you're getting solar, then I'd probably get the battery upgrade to match. BTW, I consolidated the other posts into this one so that you wouldn't get replies spread among all the others.

Normally, yes, but I replaced my stock batteries with LFPs, which can handle large loads.

I was under the impression that you were not supposed to run the AC off of the batteries because they wires aren''t quite spec'ed for that sort of a load?

I would say any LP stove/grill that you purchase that runs thru a pressure regulator and a LP bottle should work just fine. I did first setup my trailer and grill/campfire to run thru the trailer regulator and the ones that can with the grill/campfire, that's two regulators. After using the grill/campfire a couple of times I felt the grill did not get full LP flow and there was some heat loss, so I did away with the grill/campfire regulators and run my grill/campfire just from the trailer regulator, or the quick disconnect on the trailer. I did have to get some fittings from Amazon to make the connections, but all worked out well in the long run. These fittings are not special, but you have to know what sizes fittings you will be dealing with and 3/8" in one style is not the same in another style. You will be dealing with Flare and NPT fittings to make the connections, get someone to help you with these if you don't know about them. You will also need at 25' LP extension hose, get the 1/4" hose, longer hose if you think you will need it. trainman

As above, contact Jason for a specific answer. Generally though, equipment is either 'high' or 'low' pressure. If it normally works with a 1lb green cylinder, then it'll be high pressure for sure (most stuff is, unless it's specifically made for RVs). And like Andrew said, you'll just have to replace the regulator valve with a plain valve. Finding that right valve is sometimes tricky, and a few stoves absolutely won't work reliably without high pressure. Another option is to tee off of the propane tank to bypass the onboard regulator, and the ultimate solution is to just carry some green cylinders. Personally, after a few trips, we found it easier to just use the cylinders rather than pull out multiple hoses and having them strewn about to trip on. The only thing we use our quick connects for now is the campfire.

mossemi is certainly correct about measuring that hole - there are very few of these detectors on the market that will fit in there nicely. Also I purchased my new one from Oliver for the same reasons that Mossemi cites. I have replaced mine twice - once under warranty and once about a month ago. Exactly the same symptoms as described and I did exactly the same thing with a fan (this kept it going for a bit longer than in Mike & Carol's case). Since this last one I replaced is only two years old, I contacted Atwood/Dometic and asked about getting it serviced/repaired/warrantied and they told me that I would need to take it to my nearest "Service Center"for diagnosis. I hate to not be optimistic but I'm guessing that this will either be expensive (relative to the cost of the new unit) or fraught with a bunch of trouble. In any case I will do it and report back on the process. Bill

I replaced mine with one I picked up in Hohenwald from the service department last August. As I remember, the price was as good as elsewhere, maybe about $60. I then replaced it while on the road when I got aggravated enough to drag out some snips and wire nuts. I cut the wires at the butt splices to the Ollie wiring and used wire nuts to connect the new one. I used wire nuts because I didn’t think the new detector would solve the problem, but 9 months later, I think the test has been a success and butt connector are needed to complete the job. Measure the hole before ordering a new one. Mossemi

Mike and Carol: Our unit was doing the same over the last few months; but ours is not an Atwood. This is the replacement unit I used Safe-T-Alert Model 35-742-WT (Dual Carbon Monoxide & Propane Gas Alarm Unit). It was purchased from Camping World, installed in same location as the original unit. There is a one amp fuse under the left side bed for the unit. According to the manufacture these units should be replaced every five year. I installed quick disconnects in the 12VDC feeds which will make it easy to replace in the future.

Will do. Thanks.

To be clear - at its newest, and best condition, my AC rivals a Harrier jet at vertical take -off. But hey, who's complaining - I'm just happy it cools.

To all those who sacrificed their lives, and those who have served. Thank you. You will always be remembered and never forgotten 🇺🇸

If it helps anyone - after watching the YouTube linked above I made a "reminder list" of the steps to be taken during the install. 1. Apply tape (I used Gorilla duct tape) to exterior window frame to hold it in place. 2. Remove the 16 screws from the inside frame of the window and make note of the top of the inside frame in order to make sure that it is replaced the same way it came out. 3. Gently pressing on the glass from the outside - remove the frosted glass. 4. Remove old caulk from the channel of the exterior frame and clean that channel with alcohol. 5. Install new caulk (supplied with the materials from Zarcor) into the channel. Don't press the new caulk to hard so that you don't break the seal that is on the outside frame. 6. From the interior gently place new glass in the exterior frame. (Note: safety glass etched info goes to the interior) 7. Replace interior frame - note : leave the bottom center two screw holes empty. 8. Clean new glass with alcohol and then clean again with glass cleaner. 9. Seat new shade system on interior glass. (Note: the end with the two "Velcro" buttons are installed at the bottom - for the operating handle. The shade is a close fit, so, start positioning it at the top of the window and finish at the bottom. Firmly press at each Velcro button location to firmly seat these on the glass. 10: Install the operating handle using the two screws provided by Zarcor - do not over tighten. Move the handle to the left, close the blind, then press the Velcro button on the handle into the matching button on the blind. Slide the handle right to open and left to close. Bill

I have to agree with the comments about Brevard. We have some close friends who lived in Salt Lake City for many years, and then they moved to Brevard several years ago. We have visited them several times, and it is a wonderful area. The old fashioned business district is really nice, with interesting stores - no chain stores. I particularly liked this store called Architectural Antiques, so much so that I had to take a picture of it. And the waterfalls were amazing! We did bunch of hikes, and each time to a different waterfall. Pictures of Triple Falls and Connestee Falls.