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I don't think that's it. There are a number of lithium drop in replacements for group 27 batteries. I know Battleborn advertises one. So do other brands. We have 2 group 27s, in the newer updated tray. It's tight, but doable. I think it may be the limits of the rooftop solar, in the typical rooftop install? But, that can be changed up, too. We have had 200 watts (2 × 100) on our little trailer since September, 2008. We have the panels and other bits to upgrade to 400 watts. The typical 340 would easily fit, with our sidemount that Paul designed, and Oliver fabricated and installed, beautifully. The saddle brackets they made in the machine shop are a thing of beauty, imo. Sherry

There are brands of Lithium batteries that would fit into the tray of the Elite. Oliver’s choice of Brand is “Lifeblue”. Theirs is a larger footprint than the standard sizes. They are working on a solution to the issue.

Our only suggestion is to update the A/C to a wisper quiet one. Oliver has done a wonderful job of building a super quite trailer, which all goes out the window when the A/C is used.

Michelle and I picked up hull 610 on our 30th wedding anniversary in early June and made our way north, up the Blue Ridge Parkway, staying in RV parks and with Harvest Hosts along the way. Ollie life has been everything that we had hoped. Since our return to Maine, we have been on a couple more outings (Acadia had record low numbers of people for July). We plan to visit Gulf Hagas next. We just had a bit of graphics added to the Ollie, as a final touch. We look forward to seeing other Ollie owners on the road! - Jamie-

The Norcold does not have a light either. Andrew

It is cheap and easy to install a battery disconnect switch on the battery. I can access the switch by opening the door to the battery compartment.

My Mopeka Tank Check Sensors came with Spacers to lift it so that the sensors did not get crushed by the propane tank. I found that the rims on the 30 lb tanks that came with my Ollie had sufficient space under them such that the spacers were not needed. Based on that, the Halos would certainly not be needed.

Some Ollies are wired differently than others, but on mine the bath light switch is on the underside of the overhead cabinet, above the toilet.

I installed my shunt directly across the “gap” from the inverter, and used a short length of 4/0 cable..... I just cut the big negative cable going to the battery by that amount and crimped and soldered two new terminals. The cut-off scrap became a short jumper cable. I could have a used smaller size but this worked fine. The big cables Oliver uses are way, way overkill. I would have chosen 2/0 if I had bothered to go buy a new piece. 4/0 terminals are harder to find locally, more expensive and harder to crimp and solder. I don’t see anything positive about using such massive wire in this particular situation. 2/0 welding cable and fittings are universal. John Davies Spokane WA

According to the Victron installation instructions, the battery negative wire goes directly to the shunt and it is the only wire connected to the negative side of the battery and the battery side of the shunt. What size wire you place between the battery and the inverter is determined by the voltage loss per foot of the connecting wire. Since Xantrex specs a 0 gauge wire 6 feet or less, the stock 4/0 wire is overkill. So you can connect the stock negative wire to the battery side of the shunt and connect the other side of the shunt to the inverter with 0 gauge wire and meet Xantrex specs. It wouldn’t make any sense to reduce the size of the stock 4/0 unless you were really bored or wanted to reduce weight. And you might want to reach out to AndrewK via PM. He has helped multiple OTTO's with their BMS installs. Mossey

Your idea works great John. Thank you! BTW, when my unit was delivered to me here in Washington, one of the 4 black wing nuts securing the solar panels was within two threads of falling off. One of the remaining three was merely touching the lock washer. I did as you recommended and drilled one end of each wing nut for the use of zip ties to keep the wing nuts from backing off. Zip ties are sure easier to apply and remove than the "safety wire" I had to use when I was a USN Aviation Electronics Tech! Bill Simons Oak Harbor, WA

An additional wish list item, a propane monitor for the propane tanks. Also, living in FL and camping a lot in the southeast, quieting the loud AC is definitely my main wish list item.

Done! However, we are switching our Forum login and name to a joint account with my wife. No inequalities, here! Future posts will be under "Jarv" and I did complete the signature, such as it is.

I had a similar experience, checking the bubble indicators periodically, which never did turn 'white'. When I finally pulled off the caps, the cells were dry. I did not experience a significant voltage drop, or electrical issues, although the minimum voltage at night has been 12.5, lower than it should be. I have read, and found, that the hydrolink system does prevent overfilling, indicated by no longer being able to squeeze the hand pump; so I have periodically topped off the water. Try equalizing the batteries a few times, if the voltage does not come back to where it should be. I've found that does boost the minimum voltage a decimal or two. By the way, Trojan advertises a four year warranty for the hydrolink system. Good luck. Russ Caslin

Thanks for the very kind words. I do greatly appreciate them. Almost all of the mods that I have posted here at Ollie World can be found by clicking the link below my signature, which appears in every post. Specifically: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2513-how-to-rear-mud-flaps-for-the-ollie/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2505-how-to-subframe-gravel-guard/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2504-how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/ if you do only one of these, I strongly suggest the rear Ollie mudflaps. That combined with truck flaps such as a Rock Tamer, will really help to control debris damage. I try very hard to make the thread title fully descriptive since the forum Search engine is not always effective, tho it is much improved from when I joined five years ago. And welcome to the forum, I hope you will actively participate. If you click your user name it will open your home page, and then again click your name at the top right of that page. The drop down menu lets you select Profile, to add your personal info, and also Account Settings. On that page you can go to Signature to add any stuff that you want to appear after each of your posts. Many members like to post their tow vehicle and Ollie description, and perhaps a link or travel map. John Davies Spokane WA

I believe it may be due to room in the battery tray.

I mounted them smooth side to the rear EXACTLY because that is the easier side to clean. That is the part that shows the most, I do not care if the front face collects stuff. I just pressure wash that off anyway, or it falls off in the rain. Secondly, if I have to trim the bottom for clearance, I will round the corners and the back side will look unchanged. The front has a thicker lip all the way around the perimeter that would look weird if cut away and facing the back. If you want to install a set with the textured side, or a naked lady, facing the rear, go for it. I won't hold it against you. ;) I usually do stuff for a valid reason. It may not match your own logic, but I did think about it, and there was a reason for doing it the way I did.... John Davies Spokane WA