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That’s like saying, “Other than all that Mrs Lincoln, did you enjoy the play?”

You are correct on both instances, and a mention that the rear fan continues to run until the compressor is cooled down, supposedly to add longevity to the unit. A couple of things, the Dry feature is very effective in keeping interior cabin levels comfortable when relative humidity conditions are very high outside. It is also my understanding that the condensate and evaporate coils have separate drain pans, each having drain holes to both sides to ensure condensate water flows out regardless of the trailer’s orientation. I’m not sure if that is common or unique to the Atmos.

They cycle separately but the interior fan is always running when powered on, compressor fan only running when the compressor is running (though likely runs for a period after for cooling). When observing @Ronbrink's Atmos at the Texas Rally, it was just after noon and about 80F. Ron and Brooxie were outside in the shade with the A/C OFF. They had not yet run the A/C that day. Ron, Ken @mountainoliver and I went inside. Ron turned on the Atmos and we talked for 20 minutes or so, hearing every word said with a very light fan sound in the background. Just a faint sound so that it was not apparent the fan was running. In this short time the inside became quite comfortable and according to a humidistat that Ron had (do trust Ron for all the required gadgets), humidity dropped by 11% while the temp broke under 70F. One thing all these YouTube guys get wrong with sound testing is the valid comparison is dBs produced on LOW fan, not high. I'm generally not sleeping with any fan on. But if we need cooling at night the fan will certainly be on low. If you're concerned about dBs, you would run the fan on low. What is the low-to-low fan noise comparison? The Dometic Penguin II is LOUD regardless of fan position and on our unit, the difference between high or low fan is negligible. Comparing low to low fan, on my ears no dB phone app, the Dometic is 3 to 4x louder than the Atmos on low fan. I just emailed Kevin at SDG with questions about availability and the SoftStart. I hope to order ours early April and get it installed by May. Will not have summer temps but on sunny afternoons I will run amperage tests (on inverter) and sound tests, before and after, the best I can. I'll start a new mod thread when I do.

Consider redundancy also. With 2 batteries you aren’t dead in the water if one fails. With one 460 you would be SOL. Not that these batteries fail that often but it can happen as with all electronics. John

UPDATE: There were a series of short outages in the campground. Several others with high end trailers experienced this. All is good.

I just stumbled across an app that says it can be used to help diagnose issues with the Dometic air conditioner in an RV. I've not used this myself but thought that it just might help if your having issues with your Dometic AC. The app can be found HERE. Bill

I too made a purchase on @Steph and Dud B’s recommendation, and soon found the provided clevis pins to be too cumbersome; specifically the R clips were small and subject to dropping. No bueno! I replaced them with quick release pins, problem solved! I put a formerly used SealLine Dry Park from past outdoor adventures to good use in stowing the tire step inside the Savana van.

Yea after miles of dirt road the dust gets everywhere. We missed cleaning under the caps but I'm not concerned about it. To get the ethernet cable from the attic to the outdoor garage, you will need to remove the attic's street side wall panel, it's held in by two hex head screws. Also remove two screws to partially pull back the garage side panel. From both locations, you will see the clear poly drain tube for the air conditioner. The gap is wider here, and I was able to snake a fish rod along the side of the tube straight down to the garage without restriction or obstruction from the insulation. A cheap Amazon sectional fish-rod works well here. Always pull an extra string with the cable because it gets harder to get the rod through with each wire added, and you may want to add wires later for my "Turning On The Rear Camera Automatically" modification😁 https://a.co/d/fl9XvxS

Nice work JD! Perfect loss of 4 holes and creative cable stabilization assembly (AKA Bolt). A+

Yea this stuff could drive anyone nuts! Forgive me that Iv’e showed this before, but it still might help you save $$. I looked at the SmartPort way back when, and was appalled at the price. Also it would stick out like a sore thumb on the Oliver. You can buy another matching Furrion outlet for $9 and a RJ45 panel mount (two) for $16. Just have to drill the Furrion hole bigger and the RJ45 panel mount will fit right in. It’s a double female, so any Cat 6 RJ45 patch cord will work on the inside, just fish it up the wall into the attic. There is a clear path next to the AC drain tube. Gosh, that photo looks like it's mounted crooked🫢 A female 5.5 mm barrel connector will screw into the Furrion without any drilling if you want to go that route. You can even make your own Starlink Mini power cord from cable, at least #16, and run the Mini without boosting the voltage. https://a.co/d/6ZfCA1Q https://a.co/d/5YNGSrP https://a.co/d/9p1RQpP https://a.co/d/hszApCd

So I recently made this purchase and it did not fit too well (without modification). There was extra depth adjustable to fit around width of the truck tires but the step was sitting too high even at its lowest setting. I noticed that you could get another 2" drop if you removed the screw with the rubber stop. I drilled a hole in the vertical to remount the stop in the lower position. If you do this, be careful as drilling in the exact correct location is difficult. I also removed the Clevis pins on the top portion in favor of bolts with a flat-rounded screw head on the tire side. On the lower Clevis pins I substituted real cotter pins so that nothing will fall off during travel. We'll likely have this always mounted on our RR truck tire at campsites. Chris & I will be able to easily reach to the center of the truck bed. I will also use this on the front tires when working maintenance under the hood. Another nice feature as compared to a milk crate step is that when parked on a hillside you can rotate this step to be level with gravity. A great inexpensive addition! Thanks again, Stephanie and Dudley!

I appreciate this conversation. Thinking through what is needed is not easy for me and I can get analysis paralysis. My non-POE solution includes the SmartPlug data port, which is expensive at $100 plus the two keystone ports to fit it: one for ethernet and one for a barrel jack connector for the Starlink power cable. Together that’s $137.29 for the port to exit the camper. Keystone components make it easy to snap in though. I do wonder if I could repurpose the two Furrion TV and Satellite ports instead, one for power and the other for ethernet. I’m sure it would take some cutting and modifying though. If I go the SmartPlug port route, then also adding the Victron Orion-Tr 12/24-5 to step up the voltage, and I would also need a stepdown regulator for the 5V/3A I would need for my GL-iNet Beryl router. I’ve found a cheap one with a USB C port for $9, and I could repurpose the 12V cigarette outlet in the attic for that. Total for that solution is $210, but if I could repurpose the existing Furrion ports I could save $137 and forgo the SmartPlug port. The POE solution is the MobileMustHave.com POE kit for the Mini at $149. This would be a much cleaner solution to me, using the wiring to the 12V port in the attic to power the POE injector. An added benefit to this one is that the injector has a USB-C 5V/3A output built-in, so I could use it to power my Beryl router as well. (It also has a 12V output for a Pepwave.) I don’t have to worry about wiring a separate boosted power supply for the dish and don’t need another power source for the router, and would only need an ethernet pass through coupler to get out of the camper. So the $149 POE kit and a $12 pass through coupler for $161. Decisions, decisions . . .

David, Sorry, I have been out of touch for a while, but your table is great and it's got me rethinking my set up. Did Foy end up making your table top ? And he used the same top material that's in your Ollie? Since I last posted, I made a small cabinet that I use primarily for my wife's clothes and as extra counterspace that I find handy. (for coffee maker, etc). As her caregiver, I usually overdo it on her things but having all her stuff easily accessible is helpful. Like a lot of people I also use the space under her bed to store my stuff. But after seeing your table, I think I want to consider your table setup and maybe use some removable storage under the table for her things. Wow so many thoughts. I would appreciate any of yours. I hope you enjoy your Elite as much as we do.

Another way to accomplish this disconnect of the charging circuit from the tow vehicle is to simply remove the fuse for this circuit. I know that this is available in F-150 Fords (sorry but I don't remember the exact fuse off the top of my head) and would be marginally surprised if this is not available on other similar trucks. Of course - if you tow more trailers with some that are not equipped with lithium batteries then you might have to remember to re-plug in that fuse on those occasions. Bill

ASSUMPTION: From the internet,: Swamp coolers are primarily used in the dry, hot climates of the Southwest United States, such as Arizona, New Mexico, and parts of Utah and California, and are less common in areas with higher humidity." Keeping in mind that not all occupants in these states use them, as is evident the number of AC in those states. For this post, I'm saying I think that in the USA, for mechanical cooling in the USA, let's estimate that 5% of USA cooling units are Swamp Coolers. And the other 95% use regular refrigerant A/C's and/or Heat Pumps for mechanical cooling (AC). Now to your above thoughts: The AC evaporator coil has the capacity to store well over a quart of water on its very large amount of heat transfer surface. You turn on the AC and it is dry. As humid air passes over the coil, it condenses water from the air and it stays on the coil. Eventually the coil is saturated, and it begins to drain water out of the AC unit. As it continues to run the process continues and water flows out of the unit. This is true for all AC units. For the Houghton Set1, and most USA air conditioning units, the fan and compressor units cycle together. This keeps the condensate on the coil between runs. The humidity in the cabin is lowest just as the unit shut off the compressor. The humidity will then rise naturally due to occupants and their activities. But this typically is a slow process and before it gets out of comfort range, the control system cycles the compressor back on. Comfort is assured for 95% of USA applications. But for Houghton's Set 2 units and similar designed units, when unit Thermistor/T-stat reaches set point, they shut off the compressor but not the fan. The condensate then gets evaporated into the cabin. For 95% of US applications this is not good. This can be demonstrated with any heat pump. Just turn the heat pump on in "Cool" mode, and run the unit until you see condensate exiting the unit. Then switch the Heat Pump to heat and FEEL the humidity as the heat pump inside coil heats and evaporates that entrained condensate. You will be amazed. And can then fully understand one of the problems with Houghton Set 2. Your scenario in AZ is very much like what the AU Houghton typical customer wants. You are spot on. BUT most OTT owners are FAR more concerned with too much humidity and heat. As such, you likely would LOVE the Houghton Set 2 units....Until you took a vacation to most other USA locations. So, as you mentioned 🙂 This is why I have made the case for Houghton to provide a selector switch serving the supply air fan and compressors so as to allow the occupant to switch them accordingly to their needs. This would greatly benefit the vast majority of USA users and the bottom line for RECPRO and HOUGHTON. Combine this with a remote thermistor/T-stat and it would fix the cycling issue as well. Doing so would make it easy for all of the USA Market to use their product out of the box. And if they really really wanted the Air Stream and OTT customers to smile big, redesign the lower pan of the unit to allow for gravity drain of the condensate without needing an electric condensate pump like they have now added to the 15K BTU unit. Again they took the wrong design path....... Until such design improvements are made, their amazingly wonderful unit would not seem to be suitable to those chose not to execute Mod 1 and 2. But for those that can, it is a GREAT unit. GJ Sorry for the above response from deep inside the rabbit hole.

I just saw this fairly recent YT video by The Fit RV, wherein SDG installs an Atmos 4.4 in their EKKO Transit. Not tech savvy, so if interested do a search for this:

Unfortunately, I see these puppies are going for $549.00 these days. Ouch! Pretty sure we paid under $200 for ours. I don’t think I’d buy one for $550. That said, it’s still a very simple and clever device. With a few improvements, it could be even more versatile. I’ve had to do some repairs on ours. The wood frame didn’t appreciate being left out in the rain a couple of times. So I made a new one up out of birch plywood and finished it with marine varnish. Better than new!

We replaced the entire unit, and never looked back. The seal was broken on the old fan. It wasn't a huge job, and could have been done from a scaffold or ladder, on the outside, with longer arms than mine. The release mechanism, and bezel, on the inside are different, so my answer would be, I don't think so. Get the new fan, enjoy the overhead light, and don't look back. I think, personally, this should be an upgrade offered by Oliver. It's not a huge price difference, but I do so love an overhead light, and a fuse that can be replaced without tearing the fan apart. I was concerned several years ago, when we changed it out, that fan noise would increase over time. It hasn't, at least for us.

I’m struggling. I’ve filled out all info in my Profile. Is that different from Signature?. Sorry for my lack of knowledge. Mike