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Yes, I do have a recent install of ALCAN springs. Looking at the separation it appears to me that this is not new. I have also learned of other instances of this (Galway Girl being one of them) that predate any ALCAN spring installations. You gave good advice to Crazy Horse 🤪.

Craig, yes I turned in a ticket this morning. Reading through what you did I might be marginally able repair it. I’ll see what Oliver service says when they come in to work. I would like to talk with you when you have time. I saw your PM. Thanks. Mike

Mike, Please turn a ticket in to Oliver Support as category of structural failure/battery box. My repair has held since 2022 when I turned in the ticket. I followed specific Oliver instructions on my repair as I was too far from the Factory for a repair. I've also had Oliver inspect each time I go back for service...and so far it's held in place. Craig

A thread on "cracks" at and/or near the battery box was posted a number of years ago. But, as I recall, these cracks were generally in the exterior hull right at the corners of the battery box. Have you looked at the "support post" that is between the hulls directly under the battery box (approximately in the bottom center of the box)? Bill

We are repairing our battery box separation as we speak per the old string from Galway Girl. The combination 250lbs of AMG batteries, off the grid travel and aluminum rivets proves to have been a bad marriage. Now have 300AH lithiuim batteries weighing in at 80lbs and steel rivets.

We got down into the 30's this morning so I decided to run a quick test of the heat pump function on the Turbro. After using it down into the 20's while camping over New Year's I already knew it performed well but wanted to put some stats to it. Starting cabin temp was 37.2 when the heat was first turned on. The unit takes about 3 min to actually start producing heat, which most likely to get the evaporator up to operating temp and prevent circulating cold air. Once the heating started, the outlet temps at the duct immediately went to up 114 and peaked at 118 which was much higher than I expected... Took a little over 15 min to get the cabin 10 degrees warmer but from there the temperature warmed quickly and got to setpoint of 67 in a total of 38 min. I left the setpoint alone for 15 min to see if there would be any fluctuations in temps from cycling, but it held steady the whole time. After this I bumped the thermostat up to max and within 8 min the cabin temp was 75 degrees. Ended testing there since we'll never have the heat set that high, though it's nice to know it can get there and probably even higher. It may have some issues, but heating performance isn't one of them!

"Alcan" Springs, somehow when reading this earlier today, I kind-a though this might come up... And, I remembered that Craig @Galway Girl wrote about this same issue and making the repair. From his post above, "My repair has held since 2022" (TG) which is two years prior to when our friend Lance installed Alcan Springs on his Oliver, the first. Keep an eye on your battery door and I will do the same. The question is, what causes the failure? Is the battery base secure?

Crazy Horse asked if by chance you have Alcon's? I told him to mind his own business. GJ

Upon inspection, the wiring was correct. I decided to work on this today. I didn't want to travel and camp in this odd state. It took me 30 min (given it's locked down, all the straps, etc.) with only a 13mm ratcheting swivel wrench. OMG, it could have taken a good extra hour at the Q with all the helpers and advisors! 🤣 (remember the car club days, parking lot discussion to the wee hours...) @mountainoliver had texted me an idea yesterday, to swap the batteries, making the new battery the middle one in the wiring scheme, not directly connected to the main B+ or B- cables. As previously wired, I had the new battery positioned last, attached to the main ground. Ken was right, the capable engineer that he is! 😂 At least it's been working as it should today. Lesson Learned is when adding a new 3rd battery, wire it in the middle position. Who knew? We never read this in all the online advice we get. I disconnected shore power this morning, before doing the work. It's been off all day with on average -17 Ah use (our fridge on DC is -12A compressor on, plus other stuff). After 7 hours, we should be down to 87%, but at 5PM tonight ALL 3 batteries are at 94%, meaning the rooftop solar added 9 Ah on average today (which is all rooftop solar does on average, and it was another sunny day in AZ to boot)! The numbers add up. LOVE it! 😎 My upgrade may now be working as designed. I'll report after a day or two at the Q!

No, I didn’t have time this morning. It’s in storage and I had turned on the furnace yesterday because mid-20’s was forecasted last night (first freeze this year). I’m going to bring it home sometime this week and get a closer look. Mike

This reminded me of an older thread (see link) that addressed battery box support bracket and bolts. Recommended reading for those that have not already addressed, it might help avoid a loose battery box. In my case, both nuts & bolts of the support were very loose when I checked them, and the holes were drilled poorly by the factory. I drilled a new “clean” hole and installed 3 stainless bolts, washers and nylon nuts. A quick and easy task. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6112-battery-box-support-bolts-missing I recommend caution when sliding out the battery tray, be gentle and avoid leaning on the tray. It puts an excessive force on the rivets and support bracket, especially if you have AGM batteries.

North Dakota, I lived in Grand Forks for 5 years as I was attending UND to acquire a Chemistry Degree. The weather was worse than terrible. One has to live there to understand. -12 last night.

JD, I talked to Geoff last year about adding a new, third battery to my two existing 300's and he said that they indeed don't play well together. I couldn't tell you why as it's over my head. But he did tell me if I added a third battery I should only use it and not the other two until I cycle the new one through 20 - 30 charge cycles and then all should behave. But my disclaimer is to talk to Geoff. I'm not totally sure of the number of charge cycles. See you tomorrow :) John

I am taking steps to have cash in hand and watching Facebook. That one in St. Cloud MN just might be the one! And it's close to me (ND)! I'll reach out with a message. Thanks.

Welcome @TravelWell If you have not already done so keep an eye out on the FB Oliver Travel Trailer For Sale by owner page. There are some really amazing deals that pop up occasionally. I attached a screen shot of one that recently -posted. It’s highly recommend to have cash or check in hand as well kept and maintained Olivers move quickly. Disappointingly to many present forum members/owners, Oliver TT removed the ability for an owner to sell their Oliver on this Fourm. 😏 The concern it would impact nationwide dealer sales. It’s come to pass, that the dealer network really did not take off as planned and is all but limping along sorta of. Many of the original dealers selected are no longer selling or servicing new Olivers. Fortunately Oliver Service in Hohenwald is still servicing Olivers. The good news is as a result an Oliver Travel Trailer For Sale FB page was created. Turns out for those of us that use FB or FB market place now have an even better and easier media to reach out to as prospective buyers interested in purchasing or selling a well maintained preowned Oliver. You will just have to trust me when I say you can SAVE tens of thousands dollars off a new Oliver. Be patient and be ready. Also just beware of Olivers that have little to no actual documented service history. Many owners service their own Olivers as we do. We document everything we do on a spreadsheet to include logged miles, upgrades or mods or any maintenance or repairs completed by Oliver Service. Olivers in my humble opinion and 6 yrs in of long distance travel experience are the best Travel Trailers made. Like any camper they do require regular maintenance. Welcome, do ask questions, and all the best in your search for an OLE2! Edit 01/20/2026- Please note that I have redacted the contact information on the Oliver Travel Trailer Owners FB page for the previous photo in this post. I don’t want anyone “confused” thinking my in intention was to start a classifieds post to sell preowned Olivers. My sole intent in my original post was to only provide a quick screen shot or example of what an FB Oliver TT for sale by owner page looks like to @TravelWell. Advertising or attempting to sell an Oliver Travel Trailer on this forum is not allowed per Oliver Travel Trailers Inc and forum rules. See attached photo with newly redacted contact information of seller. Thanks!

Actually - I believe that those were the words used by ScubaRx.🫣 Bill

Another excellent write up, thank you! I have had my slide tray out for a re-paint after a battery leak, so I wholeheartedly agree with working the support bolts under the battery box is a challenging endeavor. Four hands to make doable. You detailed instructions will be help someone in the future, so kudos to y’all in the great northwest! Mossey

This is an issue I have not seen before. While checking my trailer this morning I noticed that my battery box is separating from the hull. I don’t know when this started. When we replaced my AGM batteries in Dec ‘20 I did not notice this. Once the four AGM’s were out I did a lot of cleaning and work on the tray and I feel that I would have noticed it then if it was happening. I will submit a trouble ticket with Oliver to see what they think. Not sure how this would be repaired. If you have an older trailer that carried those heavy AGM batteries I would check for cracks or separation. Here are some pictures, what does everyone think? Here is the right side: Here are a couple of the top: Left side top: