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Certainly I'm well aware that there are those who are experiencing much worse weather than I am. However, once again this morning an "un-forecast" thing happened - welcome to the sunny South!

So… first thanks to each of you that responded! The CO/LP detector fuse is easy to find and get to (under street side bed)… IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK! I put a tag on it similar to what Galway girl did (Good idea!) I added another 1 amp fuse to my box of emergency fuses and also realized I only had one 30 amp slow blow inline fuse (for the three electric jacks)…. So ordered some more. The new detector looks good and the fun thing is it adds to my collection of little lights that reflect all around inside the camper when I find myself wide awake in the middle of the night. I like to think of them as “stars”.

According to Andersen: "Attach the Trailer Jack Block to the pad and level. It's that easy. The Trailer Jack Block offers 5th wheel & RV stabilization, all while reducing stress on your jacks. The built-in magnets instantly attach to the jack, so there is no need to double-check and adjust each block. Available in either 4" or 8" height options, each Jack Block is designed to be used with up to 9" round jack pads. The 4" option is rated up to 30,000 lbs each or 20,000 lbs double stacked. The 8" option is rated up to 8,000 lbs each or 1,500 lbs double stacked. All of our plastic trailer accessories are made in the USA Covered under a lifetime warranty" Therefore it appears that they CAN be double stacked and even though they do not specifically mention internal reinforcement the stated "ratings" would appear to confirm that they are fairly strong. Bill

We use three round Andersen Jack Stands, to reduce the amount jack deployment. This has also cut back the amount of trailer movement when walking around inside. They also provide protection to the jack of you drive off without raising them.

When we picked up in 2016 I was using a bunch of cut off ends of a 2X6 stacked on yellow plastic Camco pads. In 2017 I made some blocks with a rope handle out of those ends. In 2018 I quit using the yellow pads and just went with the big legos which offered more flexibility. I carry 4 wood blocks and 20 big Legos in the front basket along with locks, gloves, flashlight and four rubber wheel chocks.

Or, as "AI" says: " Based on the product specifications, Andersen trailer jack blocks (specifically the 3608 and EZ Block models) are constructed from a solid, high-strength, UV-resistant polymer material, rather than being reinforced with internal metal or composite structures. Key details regarding their construction and strength: Solid Construction: They are designed as a solid, single-piece unit. Material: The blocks are made from a heavy-duty, durable, UV-resistant polymer that resists dirt, oil, and grime. Weight Capacity: Despite lacking internal structural metal reinforcement, a single 8" block is rated to support up to 6,000 lbs (some specifications list up to 8,000 lbs for specific,8-inch models). Stability: They feature a 12-inch diameter base, a 10-inch top, and built-in magnets for attachment to the jack. While they are not internally reinforced with other materials, they are Engineered to be extremely durable for stabilizing RVs and trailers. "

@Geronimo John We also have used Andersen chocks and blocks for several years. They clean up easy, don’t get water logged and have really served us well. I carry these in our Sea Biscuit front storage box along with other immediate set up gear. I see they have gone up in price since we purchased our set. https://andersenhitches.com/product/trailer-jack-block-bag/?_gl=1*1mv85o9*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnJHMBhDAARIsABr7b86djF75m0CCgyTk_YL8VGqDktpOQgowBOSYNVMPQhJDGteTk8b4o8AaAg9KEALw_wcB

Not finding anything with that name. Did you mean Jack Blocks like these? Do they stack or are they internally reinforced? Thanks. Exploring options.

Once again I credit John Davies for his wisdome many years ago: For years I have mentioned the concept that having slip planes to reduce risk of damage and wear. There are many ways to minimize jack wear by reducing movement. So I compliment ScubaRx and Mike & Carol for their posts. I would like to also mention that they both have taken to heart the concept of multiple slip planes. Their use of the plastic bases under large blocks does this. Should they move their Ollie while supported, movement is assured by both short jack extension and longer distances occupied by their blocks. This setup has a three locations for the feet to become unloaded during a drive off. Between the jack foot and the wood block Between the plastic block and the wood block Between the plastic block and the ground plastic/wood pad During a drive off while jacked up without the ground slip plane, the jack foot will likely slide on the block. As it passes the edge, in softer soils the block could "dig in" and begin to rotate. As it rotates, the jack stem could come sucumb to high stress. So for these owners, please consider adding in a second 2X6 under the jack foot. Over the past 8 seasons I have just used a pile of 2X6X11 blocks. I carry a milk crate in my basket. It holds eleven of them I recall. Due to limited storage space for my mini blocks I have not benefitted from the benefit of jack wear that the big blocks bring. Time for me to upgrade my thinking and evaluate the "Big Block" options. This Ole Dog can still learn from others!

For all those bright LEDs: https://a.co/d/02j1OZft

This too shall pass Bill! Our previous snow melted quickly with no frost in the ground here. A light dusting which was actually forecast late in the day yesterday. 🥶 Those trees on the right side of the Ollie Hangar act as a sun and wind break. I planted them when there were only 2’ high. They grow fast and are disease and drought tolerant. Carolina Sapphires!

Nothing easy about moving beds in the middle of the night while an alarm is sounding (or for any other reason)! You're not the first to cut these wires. It's a shame a bad practice OTT started years ago, is still how they do things today! How does it make sense to need to move a bed to change a fuse? The wires for the CO Monitor, the three 30A fused lines for the jacks and a couple other circuits, start under the dinette. Why is the positive bus under the bed when the negative bus and 12VDC fuse panel are under the dinette?

David, great detective work. A little pro tip, you can add a tiny piece of black electrical tape to that light if you choose to see that little star. 👍🏻😄 Talk to you soon brother!

Let's see - My Ollie is ten years old and I'm on my third alarm. Perhaps these things are junk? There are a couple of threads here on the Forum that detail the installation of a simple "on/off" switch for this alarm. If anyone installs one of these switches they should - in some way - make sure that it is known when the alarm is in the "off" position. Bill p.s. it seems that these alarms always go off in the middle of the night. This makes finding and pulling that fuse a bit difficult. Therefore, a switch makes this process much easier. "side bar": Dave - in my mind I don't look any different than I did about 50 years ago.🫠

One week on the road. Besides 700+ miles so far, we’ve run 30+ miles on washboard dirt, and through some muddy washes too! No dirt on the rear lowers and no splatters front of Ollie due to the wider TV mud flaps! 😎

Not easy pulling the Oliver through Bisbee AZ! Drove up to Mimosa Market, which had great reviews, on the north end of town, only to find it’s only open 4 half days a week. It seems Bisbee has more closed real estate than open stores. As we drove up, I realized there was no turn-around, had to back up a side street to get back. Crazy narrow roads! We ate lunch at Bisbee Breakfast club, the only open business in the vintage Lowell area. Cool old storefronts and classic cars everywhere!

What a great idea. Everyone should take note here.