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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2026 in all areas

  1. Ron, From what you describe, this is a power issue, not an audio source issue. So you can rule out the HDMI ARC feature of many modern components that sends a signal to automatically switch the stereo to the active sound source. However, there is another HDMI feature on some higher end TV/Stereos that allows the TV to also turn on another component such as a stereo. If this is the case with your TV, then you might have a HDMI cable issue causing spurious signals. Try unplugging the HDMI cable to see if that resolves the problem. If it does, then try a new high quality HDMI cable with a Ferrite choke (little barrel looking thing that goes over the cable). This is a quick and easy check to eliminate one potential cause. If that doesn't work, then it could be something to do with the yellow Accessory trigger wire common on 12 volt stereos. I'd have to think on that one a bit more, so let us know what you find. Cheers, Geoff
    5 points
  2. Lake Waco Midway Park (COE), full hook-ups. 81° Thursday. Dropped 20° for the next 2 days and high 30's tonight.
    4 points
  3. First time here, we met this guy! 😎
    3 points
  4. We like Lost Dutchman! Sunset. Anonymous Oliver owners.
    3 points
  5. 4th visit to Lost Dutchman. I’ll make it up Flat Iron one day (got halfway up last time as it was getting dark)! Came this weekend since the PPA Pickleball pro tournament is in Mesa this week, only a half hour away! What a view! Hangar steaks, baked and sweet potato with asparagus, cooked over the fire ring! 😎
    3 points
  6. These are very good reasons. We're all different and we all have choices. I am the DIY guy in anything automotive, electrical and mechanical systems. For example, I only pay for an alignment after I've replaced every suspension part myself. I learned solar/inverter system installations on a Bigfoot Class that had none to start. Installed rooftop panels using only VHB tape, drilling only two 1/4" holes for the wires, a dab of Dicor on each. Installed a PD 1800 KW inverter/charger and customized the AC power panel to be a split bus panel (sawed the bus in two, one for A/C and one for inverted circuits)! The graphic below from PD gave me the insight I needed to do so. "Should we ever sell? No way, never! 🤣 I still have my 1984 Goldwing Standard restored to factory condition. Two Lexus, a 1992 SC400 and '08 GX470 both restored. Call our son Adam lucky, as none of these, especially our Oliver, will ever be sold. They will one day be his, always kept in the family. When you put 100s or in this case 1000s of hours in our now amazing hull #113, she's here to stay, and should in its present condition outlive me! That hull named XPLOR has had only the best of love and care! Likely the best looking, best outfitted hull out there! My bet is... David will never sell! 😎
    2 points
  7. Does this happen when not hooked up to shore power? I have the same set up. Both the TV and Furrion receiver are 12V so shouldn’t be affected by shore power. Mike
    2 points
  8. I just received a call back from Oliver parts so I just ordered from them what they use. Someone on here asked what type of adhesive Oliver uses. I’ll know for sure after I receive the replacement part but looking at what I removed, it appears the adhesive was probably already on the gasket.
    2 points
  9. I just got off the phone with Mike (Oliver Parts/Service). The part number is: 3075 The part description is: 3/4 inch bulb The cost is $15.00 plus shipping The amount in stock is: 3 - more are on order Carnivore - during the call with Mike he remembered that you had called requesting this information. Mike called you back and left a voice message on your phone on the 18th. He also said that he was going to try calling you again right after he could get me off the phone. Bill
    2 points
  10. @Trailerjohngo Shoot me a private message and I will be more than happy to discuss with you details of my install via phone call or PM. As you will see from my first post, I opted to have a complete Victron system installed professionally by an excellent company in White House, Tenn. My main reasons for a professional install is all components and install are warrantied by the company doing the work as long as I own my Oliver. The warranty also conveys to the next owner should we ever sell. My system allows for the company to remote in should I have any issues as long as we have a WiFi signal. We have a SL mini so that’s not an concern. I am not nor claim to be a DYI guy when it comes to this level of electrical work. I also wanted to be able show that Victron system was installed by experts should we ever sell. I opted to have the Victron DC to DC charger installed as well which eliminates having to carry a generator. Shoot me a PM if you I can help with additional questions! And welcome to the fourm!!
    2 points
  11. This thread show an excellent inverter/battery upgrade installed by a local service company. If you are going to DIY, I've documented installation posts that show these installations step-by-step. You asked, "I assume the Xantax 2kw was the inverter or?" Yes, in my case you can see that on page 1. No more Xantrex 2KW inverter (only) with the small PD charger in the power panel (kept it there for back-up). No more lead acid... Now the Victron MP2 and 900 Ah (3x 300) Epoch LiFePO4. You will find mine is a simpler installation. Did not spend on Lynx products and I did not want a cabin screen (we seek battery info 98% of the time outdoors, while towing or from the living room of our home). IMO, Bluetooth apps are all you need, but many like having screens. When doing so, I also removed all fuses and breakers from under the streetside bed so they can be conveniently accessed under the rear dinette seal. The best addition that several Oliver owners have added is the DC-to-DC Charger! Every time we tow we add at least 40 Ah for every hour towing. This is about 4x what we get from 320W in rooftop solar. See this for the complete installation. => Hope this helps! 😎
    2 points
  12. Hello. I’m viewing a Legacy EliteII tomorrow. The batteries died over the winter due to snow covering the panels. The seller has put in a cheap replacement battery. Albeit, the higher wattage items I will use shore power, I’d like to install a robust lithium self heating battery for the Oliver. I know on the website there is a branded lithium upgrade but I’d like to customize the system. Has anyone in these forums or elsewhere replaced there electrical with Victron components or some other system? I’d like to hear suggestions and feedback. My current system in my tow vehicle is Renogy 200ah with a 30A dc to to dc and 100w panel.
    1 point
  13. Does the stereo and/or the TV normally play its sound through the speakers in the Ollie (both front and rear speakers)? Bill
    1 point
  14. If it was me, I'd look in the aftermarket! Took me a quick search to find this product. I assumed a 1" diameter but did not measure ours. This or something like it would likely work fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3PKNY47/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0D3PKNY47&th=1 CAUTION: You should determine cause for your separation. Check your support beam below the box. View it from both sides, streetside bed (see my picture above) AND look from under the rear dinette seat. OTT forgot a weld on one of my jack brackets. They also forgot to finish this support beam install! Hard to believe, but true. I've compared ours with some of Oliver friends. The others have two bolts which is mandatory! I have to get in there again, drill and add a second bolt! With batteries out, most of the weight off the battery tray, from underneath see if there is movement of the support beam. I plan to remove my batteries AGAIN. Then get a bottle jack under there to see if the support can be raised just a little. The fact that this single bolt is at the bottom of the groove shows it's at the lowest setting. Likely the beam/tray should be raised some for proper support. Then I'll tighten the single bolt installed, drill a second hole through the top of the slot to add a 2nd bolt, then torque down both. Thank goodness we have no door separation, but those who have should investigate the support beams below. Some have reported missing nuts, or nuts falling off the bolts. (How does a Nylok nut fall off a bolt? It doesn't. It was likely laid there never threaded on. Go figure.)
    1 point
  15. I too had a battery box separation and repaired it 3 days ago. Unfortunately I badly damaged the door gasket. So far I haven’t been able to get a call back from anyone in Oliver parts. Does anyone have a source or make & model for the battery door gasket material?
    1 point
  16. If for any reason you are not satisfied with the color match, I'd guess that you could lightly sand out some of the Marine-Tek and coat over it with the appropriate color gelcoat. Note - Oliver can tell you what type and color gelcoat is on your Ollie.
    1 point
  17. Hello @Mroth, this is not truly my area of expertise, but given how many holes are drilled in OTT installation processes, and that I have removed many of the old-tech products on our Oliver, I've filled way too many holes! I've used this epoxy based product and the color match is good. It's just a touch whiter than our older hull and I've read somewhere that the newer hulls are a tone brighter. I would say this product may work well for your purpose in the shower. It's simple and inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Tex-RM305K-White-oz/dp/B0014419V0/ I have also plugged the holes made for the TV mount, the drain pull handle in the bathroom, the door hook outside, both cameras and everything in these pics (see before and after).
    1 point
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