Leaderboard

Check your 7 pin. If it gets water in it the on board 12v battery will trigger. see this posting https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/why-were-my-tail-lights-on-all-night tail lights on ??

When first fired up, the Chill Cube in med-high fan makes about 30% of the noise of the Dometic P2. Once the cabin cools and it's variable speed compressor and fans gear down, its whisper quiet sound must be <5% of the awful P2! It's by far the quietest A/C unit I've ever heard. Wonderful easy sound for an afternoon nap in the Oliver! 😎 And for us, power requirements are very important, so to run our A/C on battery/inverter.

I ran that list through the Harvest Hosts app. Two are HH sites: St. James Winery Serenity Valley Winery As an aside, we've been using our Harvest Hosts more lately. Works well out east where there are fewer options. Some favorite experiences: TLC Tree farm (with great microbrew beers) Broad Creek Alpaca farm (For Steph's crocheting hobby.) Air Heritage Aviation Museum (For me. Parked right next to a F4 Phantom.) Shenandoah Caverns (Did the cavern tour.)

That's right Lance, but I had both wheels off on that side, weight off, suspension hanging, and still 1 of 6 wet-bolts would not take grease. Loosened the nut and turned it just a few degrees and it took grease. Not the best case but it's all I had the patience for. I retorqued it where it took grease, so maybe I get lucky next time. I'm going to service annually, always jacked-up wheels off, bearings check, greasing then torquing suspension, blowing out the brake shoe dust to keep the brakes clean inside, tightening the "self"-adjusters, checking amp draw at each wheel, etc. I'll write this up in detail when I get done with this work later this week.

Nice Bill, your new Sendel wheels are beautiful 😎 and a little stronger than their same model of 10 years ago. I was wondering why the load on mine stated 110 PSI with both 3,200 and 3,750 LBS weights listed? Yours has PSI ratings 80 / 100 and load ratings 3,300 and 3,960 LBS, so the load weights must be based on the two PSI numbers. Most of us run 45 - 55 PSI and carry 6K +/- LBS GVW. I built a weight table for our upgraded Oliver Suspension: If your still towing on OEM Dexter 1750 springs, then 7K is Max and you should worry about this common point of failure until you upgrade. Installed the 4-pack Alcan set? Then @ 2,250 each, 9,000 LBS is the Max Load. Oliver EII DOT stickers all state 7,000 GVWR anyway. If you've seen Steve's custom interior work and other additions, the weight of Hull #50 is right up there at the top in Oliver GVW! 3x may be an exaggeration, but if it's >10K then we have a 10K suspension with these upgrades, legal or not.

If you like nerding out on details ... Here's the control boxes, yay more LED's to cover at night. But see below, this might be just the PP model, or an early idea Here's the Ecoflow. That spot is blank on mine, unfortunately I lose cabinet space for no useful purpose The battery looks like a standard ecoflow bolted in there, with all the electronics and casing. No space to do a side by side like with the Lithionics. 5 kWh base, I have about 9 kWh with the Lithionics upgrade (which cost $$). Jason says it can be supplemented, maybe he means the Ecoflow daisy chaining feature with an external battery They dropped the vents. Those Ecoflows have built in active cooling and fans, maybe they figure that's good enough? Still need to dump heat somehow Different picture on the websidte compared to the Austin demo model. Two control panels and not one on the side pantry wall. Bottom is the tanks, the top looks like the Truma with the control knob. Probably something similar.

I let mine lapse too. Every time I tried to use it the host NEVER called me back.

Do not rotate bolt. Instead, jack up trailer to remove weight from suspension. Grease should then be able to be introduced. This is a common situation and remedy when greasing two rearmost zerks

I did consider this method too @jd1923 but by the time I got to this point honestly I was tired of working on the project. FWIW in the conversation when I measured DC voltage it perfectly matched the current SOC of my Epoch battery which at that time was 14.4 volts. This gave me assurance there was no voltage drop. I want to add this is not an easy install nor a quick one either. Now for the vast majority of campers it probably takes a couple of hours max but due to the Olivers lack of a basement foundation and access one has to re-engineer a platform for the WH to rest one. The old 1x1.5 aluminum tube originally used which by the way was very wobbly on my unit due to the bolts used not being screwed all the way in. Worse still bouncing had called some indentation on the insulation of old WH creating a less than ideal surface for the unit to rest on. Reusing this piece sideways with a 1/4 shim installed on top seemed to provide the right height of 1.25 inches. The new Fogatti is much shorter than the older Suburban thus the change in support position. It's also considerably lighter in weight too not to mention the extra 50 lbs of water you're carrying with a Suburban. For anyone contemplating this change there are other things to consider. The soft copper tubing to the WH is far too long for the new Fogatti which requires a significant amount of bending or shortening. If shortened then one has to also buy a flaring tool if you can even find one. I couldn't. Since the copper tubing on the Oliver runs along the outside of the trailer this is the harder/stiffer version of soft copper tubing which means it's a ***** to bend and maneuver. This was quite the wrestling match given the cramped access in the Oliver. Water fittings have to be re-considered as well. I chose to use two double threaded nipples to join the old half inch fittings attached to the pex pipe with a short run of flex water pipe to the NPT connections on the WH. The old pex pipe does not even come close to lining up with the location of the new NPT connections. While my method works not sure this was the best arrangement and may revisit it at some point. I also might revisit my method of creating a platform for the new unit to rest on. According to Fogatti what I did was fine but only by a half inch or so. Eventually I might create a second platform further toward the back of the unit supported by the frame of the trailer. Also considering using spray foam insulation under new unit but this can get messy if not done right, but it would provide a decent foundation for the unit to rest on. Hope this helps

They are using a Dometic FreshJet A/C.

Started suspension maintenance today, so got a pic of the back of our wheels. I can zoom in, to see the SenDel brand trailer wheels, made in China, 6x16jj rims, 110 PSI Max, 3,200 LBS load rating.

Thank you for all your information. I really want one, but have spent too much on the Oliver already. I want the one with the grey front since I have that trim theme now. https://fogattiliving.com/products/fogatti-instashower-ultra-66-000-btu-rv-tankless-water-heater-with-grey-door I see now that without the border trim it's a 15" square. Thanks again. For your ground, what you did is fine. Or you could run a new ground wire around the back to the streetside and to the main ground bus. I have all grounds connected from here by the two 8 AWG green wires going left to the Inverter ground terminal, to the battery ground. Chassis ground is good, but direct copper wire connections are better.

Insta Shower 9 Pro, which also fits the basic 13x13 hole with 15 x 15 door. However the fit was tight and just a titch out of square from the original install of the Suburban. Used a drill with rotating drum sanding attachment and vacuum in the other hand to sand away critical parts for an easier fit. After a few efforts it slide in nicely. I chose this unit over some of the less expensive models due to its mixing chamber/valve the less expensive models did not have. These WH are said to be 74% efficient ± and would bet the Suburban is nowhere near this level of efficiency. It's also very quiet and very easy to winterize. Your Suburban has a 15x15 door but the actual hole or rather square is 13x13. The Fogatti comes with a surround trim piece but will not work on the Oliver due to the recessed indentation for the WH and Furnace. Not a big deal as the supplied gasket and caulk easily seal the unit well. Finally finished the install today and thanks to @Snackchaser for his suggestion of capping off the two other blue and yellow/green wires and running an additional black wire from a bolt on the chassis to the black wire on the WH. Everything seems to be working perfectly. Had gorgeous day in Big Sky country after frigid night before. I really like the remote control for adjusting water temp to your taste. The fit and finish on this product is on an order of magnitude better than the older Suburban. The engineering and tech seems to also be light years ahead of the Suburban which by comparison seems like a relic out of the end of WWII. Is it perfect? Probably not, but thus far I like it much better than the older Suburban WH. LMK if there are more concerns or questions.

Please do!!! My suspension was silent when I got it. Now it’s creaky. I just did the 3k lube right on schedule but still creaky. There’s a couple that won’t take lube, wondering what to do Ok so loosen nut, rotate bolt, grease and then tighten to 58

Just retorqued the suspension after towing 3600 miles over the last 6 months on the new D52 axles with Alcan 5-pack leaf springs. On the right side (I'll work the left side tomorrow), the U-bolts did not need tightening at 90 ft-lb (they're set, last time I'll touch these). The three main leaf (3) bolts, the EZ Flex center bolt and the two end bolts did not need tightening either (torqued to 70 ft-lb). The wet-bolt on one shackle would not take grease, so I loosened it to apply grease. All four (4) shackle-connected wet-bolts needed a bit of tightening (torqued to 58 ft-lb). All shackles and other parts looked in like-new condition. Not real concerned with rotating wet-bolts as you could see they were all fixed into a set position even though needing torque. Just loosen the nut and rotate the bolt if one is not taking grease. Torque wet-bolts after greasing. I'm going to start a maintenance thread for the Alcan/D52 Nev-R Lube setup.

Looks that way from what I can tell, and those 48V Houghton's on paper don't look very efficient either. I think the 120v inverter units that we each have would use less power even after the loss of running through an inverter.

I hope you all recognize this was tongue-in-cheek. Yep, but come to think of it... How nice it would be to have 2300A of solar available! Plus, you'd have have redundancy if (when?) one of them failed. Now we need a gray water storage carpet to put under the solar awning. And camp chairs that also hold fresh water. We could boondock forever!

Oliver is adamant about maintaining their 7000 pound GVWR. The 4 leaf spring pack is now the weakest link and achieves their goal.

Exactly, regardless of code, wire nuts are for Residential use within junction boxes. Automobiles, trucks and trailers, anything DOT approved for highway use should use crimp connectors, or terminals with eyelet connectors screwed to a bus, relay or switch. Don't use anything else, including all the fancy cr@p you'll find, like WAGO or any other lever connectors. I toss them out when they come with an installation kit. You don't want a set screw holding stranded wire. You don't solder automotive connections either. Solder is for electronics only, it can crack with vibration. Only basic crimps will absorb vibration without harm.

I hope you all recognize this was tongue-in-cheek.

Where's Ollie? She's back home after a couple trips down to the Phoenix Valley lately. I used to hate the drive, especially towing, the section of I-17 that drops 2000 ft through Black Canyon City AZ. Steep and winding, narrow lanes, rough pothole ridden, sections without shoulders, always construction present, and when there's an accident, you're waiting long without an alternate. When northbound, climbing elevation, note the sign to turn off your A/C when it's hot out. With a 10% climb, there were always cars overheated, parked on the shoulder. After 2+ years of major construction, the first 40 miles heading north on I-17 is now the greatest road is Arizona. It is now a 6-lane divided highway the whole way with new Flex Lanes in the steepest section. The lanes are now full Interstate width with oversized shoulders all the way. I used to often take an extra half hour to drive up the back route, Hwy 89 through Yarnell. Today, we flew up the mountain, towing 65+ MPH the hole way home! It's the main route from Phoenix to Prescott, the Verde Valley, Sedona, up to I-40 at Flagstaff and of course the Grand Canyon. Check it out on your next trip to Arizona! 😎

They dropped a video this morning, mainly just advertising splash FWIW my opinion so far Color scheme: Not my taste. The black trim will take more sun damage and takes away from the elegance of the design language. It's a hard black and white which is way to constrasty, if they could have gone with a softer black it would work but I think the windows set it to a hard black. Also black shows up scratches and dirt like nobody's business. That black AC will absorb heat and age faster Fully opening window: From a 2026 owner; a step backwards. I can't tell you how easy and convenient it is to crack the bedside window at night. The sliders would be more challenging I think, and this one, you'd have to get your hand around the window shade and push it somehow, assuming the levers are open. I really don't understand why people want a fully opening window, it doesn't offer anything new 48V system Been in a lot of discussions of this because the Cybertruck went 48V. My engineering opinion; it doesn't offer you anything. The only technical improvements are thinner battery cables and better power/torque delivery for motors. But they will still have to supply 12V as not every device will support 24V, and for the 12V cig ports. So it'll be a stacked/split system, mostly likely they'll just also have a series 24v connection to the battery, and split 12V rails for those. I could see the power jacks benefiting, assuming a 48V system. Oh maybe the inverter too - that would be more efficient. Who knows, maybe 48V lets them get to a 4k inverter which honestly would be nice (Xantrex doesn't have one AFAIK though) Offgrid tires Look cool, but probably lower efficiency, harder to replace (?), and since they don't provide motor traction of limited use. Cost: Probably $$$, I kind of doubt they'll have all those parts in black from the supplier

The soundtrack suggests trouble ahead, and the footage does seem to suggest off-road more than off-grid. That said -- my Ollie hasn't disappointed me at all, and I've had next-to-no troubles * in terms of being able to spend weeks at a time off-grid. Of course that requires preparation and contingency plans. Having walked through creeks and stepped into holes several feet deep, I don't think I would want to ford a creek with my Oliver, unless it was an improved surface with known qualities. Still, there are lots of folks who have a bigger yearning for adventure. I think this will appeal to those who want to go whole-hog off grid and off road. Can this model go longer than my LE2's 3-4 weeks off grid? * The one exception to my 'no troubles' was a few years ago when I had a propane leak that a local North Dakota TT repair facility failed to correctly identify and fix; in that case, I was left without propane powered refrigerator, hot water, or heater for several months, out west on the road into October.

THOSE are the windows we've been waiting for.

The wife refers to it as the “man barn” for my “man toys”!

Not to hijack this thread. We have an LE2 and this lives in the back of our TV when we travel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJJZ5NI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=cm_sw_r_ud_dp_KA0NVZ9NHHFNSBGZS58H&ref_=cm_sw_r_ud_dp_KA0NVZ9NHHFNSBGZS58H&social_share=cm_sw_r_ud_dp_KA0NVZ9NHHFNSBGZS58H There are many choices out there. I wanted a large base and a jack stand combo for stability. The user reviews are strong. Now back to OP’s original questions on travel. 😎

And - ALL of the expense in doing this work came out of the pocket of Oliver - not Truma. Bill

The 960 watt Girard awning is $8224.15, but that is a 5% saving over its MRSP of $8657.00. I'd get two just to have enough.