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I think like a lot of Elite II buyers, we were torn between the twin beds vs the king. We chose the twin, but not so much for the size or comfort of the beds as it was the utility of nightstand and easy access to the overhead compartments. But we liked the idea of having a table and a large lounging area in the back, and so I set my mind on the idea of trying to have both. At first I designed a custom table for the back that would latch into the nightstand in the back with a pole in front, similar to how the dinette table works. I showed it to Oliver and they thought they'd give it a try, but as time went on and things got delayed or forgotten, I sort of gave up on that idea and asked if they would just sell me the standard table top and legs and I would figure it out. They did, and it was a big mistake since I could never figure it out. The table was just too heavy and bulky to put up and take down, and there was absolutely no place to store it. Plus the height with the standard legs was too short for the mattresses we had (another poor decision on my part). So on our first trip it was labeled the Albatross Table and it was just in the way the whole time. It didn't make another trip, just the two mounts screwed to the floor to remind me that not every problem has a solution. But the solution does exist in the Lagun table. I'd seen them before in the king bed model but I had sort of dismissed them as being too small to be of use. But that was before @rideadeuce started this topic about their upgraded table top. Their top was much larger, foldable, and just generally nicer looking than what I'd seen before; and so it clicked with me that with the Lagun mount, we could have a foldable table that could easily be stored or moved out of the way for access to the upper storage. Also the height could be whatever we wanted and unlike the table we had, could be quickly locked for travel. There were just two problems for us - the mount in it's normal location would block the nightstand drawer; and on top of that, we had opted for an access hatch to the basement right in that same spot where the Lagun is usually bolted to the hull. I needed a way to mount the table to the side somehow. So I made one of these - This contraption is made out of 15 Series extrusion from 80/20. I cut, mitered, and erector setted this little block and associated connectors to go beneath the bed overhang. The Lagun mounting plate (the vertical piece) bolts to the mount and then the whole thing gets bolted to the side wall under the bed in four places and to the bed overhang in four places. It looks complicated but if you have a miter saw and can play with Legos, you can build it. Here are some pics of the block in place so you can see how it mounts. The top two bolts on the Lagun plate bolt into the side of the bed extension, then there are two bolts on the block that secure vertically into the base of the extension, then another four bolts that go into the side wall of the base of the bed, opposite the basement. I marked and drilled for the two vertical holes first, then temporarily bolted it in place to mark all the other holes. You need to do this since not all of the surfaces are perpendicular to the trailer or one another. But the flat bottom of the bed extension runs parallel to the floor so if you use that as your starting point then the table top will end up parallel to the floor as well. The end result is extremely solid - The table top I chose is the 35" Nautic Sail top from Marine Teak. Look around on their site and you'll find a number of styles and sizes, any of which would be a great choice. (This is the same company as this one, btw, but they have more choices in table tops on their UK site.) I debated oiling it, but came to my senses and coated it in a couple layers of low gloss poly. Taking it apart to seal is no problem, but you do have to keep track of a number of shims that go under the hinges to make them flush to the wood. So here's the final result. I really like the versatility of the top. Use it folded, unfolded, bar height, table height, sideways, lengthways, stick it over the bed for travel or to get it out of the way, or...however. With the mounting plate where it is, we can raise the table hight enough to clear the nightstand and lower it enough that it sits on the bed locked in place for travel. As you can see, the drawer clears just fine. The table will work best once we have our cushions made to replace the mattresses, but we just did a quick weekend trip with it and it works well even as it is. And best of all, it fits in the closet -

So, I bough locally. It was a Honda EU2200i. I was looking at it this morning and seen that it has 2 (15 amp) outlets. Should I have bought the EU2200 Companion which has the 30 amp outlet and a 15 amp outlet? Yes, I know I can use a conversion plug with the EU2200i. However, with the EU 2200i Companion it would be a direct plug in to standard RV Power Cord. Since, I have not used it, I think, I can take it back if need be. Thanks in advance! Darryl

<p style="text-align: center;">We arrived at the Mothership at 9:30 AM and departed at 3:15 with Oliver Hull Number 412. We drove to David Crockett State Park and got set up. Oliver picked up the tab for the site. It is a beautiful park. The campground host stopped by and made sure things were good. The Oliver was winterized when we picked it up and we decided to leave it that way while we camp the next couple of days. Oliver gave us a couple of camping location options and we are very happy that we chose the state park. After spending 150 nights in a tent last year, this is total comfort.</p>

My microwave draws 75 amps through the big inverter power cable, measured with a clamp-on inductive amp meter. The inverter - AKA the "Battery Killer"- is definitely a luxury item that you need to use very wisely so that you have plenty of time to recharge your batteries. Don't cook a bunch of 6 minute TV dinners on High just before dark. Do them while the sun is brightly shining on your panels, and cook outdoors on a grill in the evening. Even a dinky little 110 VAC ventilation fan is going to suck maybe 10 amps DC out of y0ur house batteries. It really makes sense to switch to efficient 12V DC marine appliances where possible. This is on my Christmas Wish List: ... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LDY4TE4/?coliid=I14ORXBQ0IDTF1&colid=1X5H11EH41351&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it to replace this: .... https://www.amazon.com/Vornado-CR1-0253-43-Small-Whole-Circulator/dp/B01BF3XYMQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1544728555&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=vornado+fan&psc=1 The Vornado is a terrific fan but it is a real power sucker when run through the inverter. John Davies Spokane WA

Got the Furion paired. I pulled the Oliver back to service due to a couple of minor issues. I brought it up to Richie and Jason when I dropped the Oliver. I picked it up a few hours later and tried again. It paired right up.

The above thread raises several "red flags" for me that as a Professional Engineer I am required to respond. Although I believe that several of our OTT owners are quite qualified to mitigate my below concerns. That said, I also believe that the majority of OTT owners, myself included, likely are not. As such, I am taking the time to highlight to this second group some concerns with the modification made to the OTT electrical systems as discussed in the above threads. Upon delivery, I asked OTT if I could run the A/C by battery power alone. The OTT answer was NO. If I am recalling correctly, the reason given was that the inverter and electrical systems were not designed to provide the continuous power necessary to run the A/C as well as other parasitic and elective loads of the trailer at the same time while on battery power alone. In the case of our trailers, the A/C pulls 1731 watts (Oliver University documentation), add to that normal other loads of an occupied trailer, and the power inverter will be operating near or above its continuous max load of 2,000 watts. Should an owner then power up the microwave, water heater (on electric mode) or other electrical loads, several system components will certainly be operating in an overload condition. Systems running at or above their designed continuous capacity are prone to fail young with the added concern of possible fire or other unforeseen electrical damages. Yes I do believe it is possible to run our A/C off the trailer batteries alone. But it certainly comes with risks that neither I or the average OTT owner should sign up for. Granted if solar power is added to the equation, the power available (Battery Power + Solar Power) improves the ability to run the A/C and other loads without generator or shore power. However you are still facing the brick wall of the capacity of the individual components to do so safely. To do so safely and to meet UL requirements, a full re-look, if not redesign of the OTT power systems would be required. For those Owners that are compelled to modify their OTT to run the A/C from batteries (with or without solar), I humbly recommend five safety mitigation efforts: A. That you instrument your Xantrex Inverter, batteries, and cables to monitor and alarm for temperature and current overloads. B. As I suspect that your inverter life will be substantially reduced, you may want to consider having a spare inverter in your spare parts box. C. That you install master battery kill switch(s) accessible outside at the battery compartment to shut down the flow of power from your batteries and solar systems in the event of fire. This would allow the fire department an ability to more safely fight an electrical fire in your trailer. D. That you and your family actually practice exiting out the emergency window. E. The modifications described in the above threads appear to be accomplished without UL approval or testing. Nor does it appear that they have been designed and documented by a licensed Electrical Engineer. As such, you may want to know if your insurance will cover the loss of your trailer should an electrical fire consume it. I fully support an owner's right to execute modifications to his/her trailer. Especially when done by competent individuals, as many of our OTT owners are. That said, it is my opinion that this modification needs to be cautiously approached by the majority of us. Thank you.

That's a pretty neat hose that Steve posted. But unless I misunderstand, it would not protect the spigot from freezing. Remember you have around 30 gallons of water to use in your FWT. If it was me, and I was in your situation, I would just use the FWT all the time. Then if it begins to run low, fire up the hose and refill the tank, then disconnect again. During fillup, you could also fill a container for drinking water if you don't want to drink out of your FWT, like some of us do. Just my 2 cents. Dave

Like Mike, I too bought an extra 25' water hose and have used them both. I often need the extra length while "camping" at friends' houses. At campgrounds that have water, you never know what side of the trailer the spigot will be, but 25' usually works great. If water is provided at your camp site, it is always best practice just to disconnect your hose at night and let the water drain out of the hose and your trailer (it will drain from the supply side of your backflow valve and out). Full timers will go to the trouble of heat tape and insulation, but for the traveler it's really not necessary. You also would need to tape and insulate the frost-free spigot or risk freezing and busting that and incurring a hefty bill from the campground owners. It just takes a couple of minutes to disconnect and stow your hose in the TV, and let the freeze come! Dave

Mine does the same thing when water gets in the tow connection. I now have a cap I put on it and does not happen anymore.

Electrolysis occurs when an electrically charged metal comes in contact with salt or similar elements . Since salt and many other trace elements are often found in drinking water I would use a plastic hookup. Many of the other elements found in water are corrosive over time especially if it’s well water. It would depend on the water but why take a chance. With plastic you will never strip the threads by accident. If there is leakage it’s probably because the the threads are stripped or the hose washer needs replacing.