ScubaRx

Our Yamaha EF3000iSEB's footprint is 26.8" x 17.5" and it fits quite nicely in the box with the angled corners. It actually has about an inch clearance on either end and the back with about three inches in front.

The frame fits up inside longitudinal channels that are molded into the underside of the body. The only thing between the body and the frame is a layer of 3/16"-1/4" rubber glued to the top of the frame. The body is then bolted solidly to the frame. If the frame moves the body moves with it and vice versa. The movement of the body (and the frame with it) relative to the tires that you see is because of the springs. If you support the frame in four places the perceived movement will be far less.

The old style with the dual receivers.

This is an excellent choice. I put this system in with all 8 channels used. I even monitor the temperature of the water heater. I replaced the 120V power supply with USB cord.

I just measured the placement of the holes from the 2” hitch and laid out the holes on the 2-5/16” hitch to match.

That sounds like an internal neutral/ground fault. When the neutral and ground come together in our trailers it will blow a GFI Outlet.

Spike, I drilled them in a drill press. If you don’t own one, they could be drilled with a large hand held. If I remember correctly, the holes were 5/8” or so. Most folks that don’t have a drill press won’t have bits that large so you may have to get some help.

Exciting, are either/both of you coming to the rally? It will be the perfect learning experience for a new owner. The plan is to partner new owners with experienced owners as mentors. Good luck to your both.

We had a LaCrosse sensor under the propane cover for 10 years with no problem from moisture.

Here are a few pics of our 2-5/16” coupler. It basically appears just like the 2” one.

That sounds suspiciously like what happens to a camera bag with multiple Nikon bodies and lenses left sitting on the driveway as you are about to leave for a big trip. [attachment file=Steve-000 - Img_1483.jpg]

Our trailer (hull # 050) does not have an interior valve in the black flush line. It does have a one-way check valve and that is all you need to prevent black water from running back into the flush hose. And, never having to raise the cushion to manually operate the on-off valve. If one wanted to keep the original concept in place, I would remove the manual valve and replace it with an electric valve with a switch mounted in a convenient location. I did this with the winterizing valves at my pump so as to not have to jump through hoops in order to get to them when we wanted to pump water into our fresh tank while boondocking. Set up my water cans, flip the switch for the valves, turn on the water pump and voilà, refilling the tank.

I did this a couple of years ago when I bought the 3/4 ton diesel. It has a 2-1/2” receiver so I thought “why not?” The hitch I’m using now is rated at 20,000 pounds. That ought to handle my overweight Oliver nicely.

Been to the factory, have you...

I discovered that too when I "winterized" last fall. Mine has two pipes going through the floor.

You should not have to add any weight up front. That amount of rear weight probably won't make over 60 pounds difference on the tongue.

When I had our Oliver built I instructed the guys to put in a second drain for the hot water system. Mike, being as yours is one of the early trailers that is most likely what the second drain is for. They quit putting the second drain in soon afterwards.

Anyone that attends the rally will be getting one of the plaques. I saw them a couple of months ago. They are NICE.

Interesting, I looked for something like that 5 years ago to keep the back bumper on the OOII from dragging on extreeeeeme breakover angle inclines. Finally designed my own.

I've got one just like that on the front of the Silverado, had one on the front of the Sierra before that and one on the front of the Yukon before that. I have an eight inch stinger in the riser position and our tongue weight is over 700 pounds. I've had to use it once in an emergency situation for about 1/4 to 1/2 mile and never had a bit of trouble with it. Personally, I don't worry about things such as this as much as others might. OTOH, my rear hitch is rated for 20,000 lbs because that's where I'd worry about getting into trouble.

You put the lever towards the tank that you are using from. The indicator shows green. When that tank is empty, the regulator will automatically swap to the opposite tank. The indicator will now show red. The lever does NOT move to point to the other tank. If you manually move the lever (no reason to) to the opposite tank, the indicator will show green. The idea (and the way I do it) is to leave both tanks open. That way, if you run out of propane in the middle of the night, you don’t have to go outside to open the other tank and manually swap the regulator over. Of course, this system requires you to be paying attention and not run completely out of propane. Through the years I’ve gotten a feel for how much is being used. Plus, I have the wireless monitors on the bottom of the tanks that transmit to a readout inside the trailer and to an app on my phone.

I agree that the info about the "curb weight" being 2500 lbs is wildly inaccurate and expect that by the time you get your Elite outfitted for travel it will weigh well north of 4000 pounds. With a towing capacity of 7600 lbs, your Canyon Duramax Diesel will do just fine. We own a Silverado Duramax and a Canyon Duramax. While I would not regularly tow our Elite II (it weighs over 7000 lbs) with the Canyon, I would not hesitate to head out anywhere in North America with your setup. Also, your fuel mileage should be outstanding, we can count on our Canyon to get 34 mpg on a road trip (not towing anything.) Yours will be a very cool setup.

Ed and Nancy, Congrats on the new Oliver. Don't get worked up about being new at it. Everyone of us was new at it at one time or other. And we're all still here. I've "only" been towing an Oliver for a little over 10 years and I feel like I'm close to getting the hang of it. Just kidding. You'll be a whiz in no time. If you have questions, your best advice will come from experienced owners and we're all here to help. Just relax and have fun.

Many of us have to use what we have. We are unable or unwilling to buy a new piece of equipment because it's lighter or more fancy. I love my EF3000iSEB Yamaha. Yea, it is heavy and it was expensive (sounds like all the other Fiberglass Trailer Owners describing our Olivers) but it's what I've got. It never fails to crank (it's 10+ years old) and it will run the entire trailer. I don't have or need the EasyStart system. It's ridden on the tongue of both our Olivers these past 11 years and I only take it out of the basket to service it. With a full tank of fuel it weighs over 175 lb. I couldn't begin to lift it so I installed a lift in the roof of the garage the Oliver lives in when it is (rarely) not on the road. The lift also serves to remove and replace the propane tanks for filling and the 250 lb tool box that rides in the truck when we travel.

I found exactly the same situation on our OOII when we got to Winnipeg for the Boler Rally last summer. A fellow that had been viewing the trailer noticed it and alerted me to it. I don't know which would be worse, 4 mph on a steep mountain road or 65 mph on the interstate. I'm glad that neither of us had to find out.