ScubaRx

You state " (I) like what I see in the small twin bed Oliver model." Be aware that there are two different sizes in the current Oliver lineup. The smaller of the two is the single axle 18.5 foot Elite. The larger is the dual axle 23.5 foot Elite II. Only the Elite II is available as a twin bed layout. I will address your questions with the Elite II in mind. There are those that own an Oliver and full time in it. We are not one of them so I can't speak to actually living in 40 square feet. We do travel extensively (6-8 months of the year, broken apart into 3 or 4 trips) in it and I am fine living in it within those lengths of time. But, I am always ready to get back home for a few weeks/months and then always ready to leave again. I don't know if I would feel this way were we not traveling in an Oliver. As snobbish as it may sound, the SOB's (some other brand) do nothing for me but other folks may be less discriminating than I. We boondock almost exclusively and yes, "one (can) be equipped with enough of a modern solar/battery/inverter system to make one almost fully electric for a lot of boondocking." You will want/need propane of course (get the larger tanks) and adding a generator of sufficient size to easily run your air conditioner would round everything out for all eventualities. If you plan to travel with only your dog, I would get the twin bed model you propose with one side a bed and the other side outfitted as a couch. If you find yourself in need of another bed it can quickly be converted. Since you plan to buy a new tow vehicle make sure you get one with plenty of power to get you where you want to go efficiently and comfortably. Learn all you can about tow capacities for the various towing prospects and you will save a lot of headaches and money. Over the past 11 years, we've owned both and Elite and Elite II and have had four different tow vehicles, two for each one. First was a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited for the Elite. Our first trip to the West was a joke. I wondered if it would get us over the mountains. A fully loaded vehicle with a 3500 lb towing capacity, two adults and two dogs pulling a 4000 lb trailer...not good. Quickly traded the Jeep for a Chevrolet Tahoe (lost $7000 in the deal.) Tahoe did fine for the Elite for 5 years. Sold the Elite, bought the Elite II, pulled with the Tahoe...mediocre experience. Traded the Tahoe for a 1500 Sierra, 11,800 lb tow capacity, 6.2L gas burner w/Max Tow Package...much better experience but still under powered in the 10,000+ foot mountain passes and rather dismal mileage (always less than 11mpg.) Traded the Sierra for a Silverado 2500HD with a 6.6L diesel...extraordinary experience, never slows down when tackling anything less than a 10% grade and using the exhaust brake and down shifting mean rarely touching the brakes going down the other side. All this with a 31% increase in fuel mileage. Full disclosure: our trailer is built much heavier than current models and, fully load with gear and water, will weigh in excess of 7200 lbs.

Our refrigerator runs almost exclusively on propane. On a short trip (less than 1 month) it's unlikely we'll be plugged in at all. A longer trip means we will probably stop by a friend or relative's house somewhere along the line and sponge 120 volts off them. We do not turn it off when fueling. I don't have a cooling fan and have never needed one to keep the fridge cool. It seems I'm guilty of probably being like most of all the other Travel Trailer/Motor Home/RV owners in the world and have never done any preventative maintenance concerning my propane refrigerator because we've never had an issue with them in either of the two Oliver's we've owned and frankly, I wasn't aware I was supposed to.

Drill a 1/2” hole (from the bottom is best) in each corner. Problem eliminated.

Battery systems as provided by Oliver: Standard - 2 x 12V Lead/Acid @ 100Ah wired in parallel - total Ah=200 - Usable Ah=100 Optional #1 - 4 x 12V Lead/Acid @100Ah each all wired in parallel - total Ah=400 - Usable Ah=200 Optional #2 - 4 x 6V Trojan AGM @ 200Ah each 2 pairs wired in series and each pair wired in parallel - total Ah=400 - Usable Ah=200

Thanks for this info. I was contemplating buying a bottle.

Not clear on all the negativity on a product that has not yet on the market or even been viewed, but I’m pretty sure nobody will be required to buy it.

We do something similar. We do our showering inside and just leave the gray valve open. Like your system, the shower water still ends up in the bushes.

We’ve never regretted buying the larger generator. I’m all about overkill and it never fails to supply what power we need. Yeah, it’s heavy, but I have an overhead hoist to remove and replace all the stuff I can’t, or don’t choose, to manage alone (generator, tool box in truck and propane tanks.

The graphics will peel cleanly off with the use of a heat gun or hair dryer.

I could 'splain that to you but it would only make the story longer...

Our Yamaha EF3000iSEB's footprint is 26.8" x 17.5" and it fits quite nicely in the box with the angled corners. It actually has about an inch clearance on either end and the back with about three inches in front.

The frame fits up inside longitudinal channels that are molded into the underside of the body. The only thing between the body and the frame is a layer of 3/16"-1/4" rubber glued to the top of the frame. The body is then bolted solidly to the frame. If the frame moves the body moves with it and vice versa. The movement of the body (and the frame with it) relative to the tires that you see is because of the springs. If you support the frame in four places the perceived movement will be far less.

The old style with the dual receivers.

This is an excellent choice. I put this system in with all 8 channels used. I even monitor the temperature of the water heater. I replaced the 120V power supply with USB cord.

I just measured the placement of the holes from the 2” hitch and laid out the holes on the 2-5/16” hitch to match.

That sounds like an internal neutral/ground fault. When the neutral and ground come together in our trailers it will blow a GFI Outlet.

Spike, I drilled them in a drill press. If you don’t own one, they could be drilled with a large hand held. If I remember correctly, the holes were 5/8” or so. Most folks that don’t have a drill press won’t have bits that large so you may have to get some help.

Exciting, are either/both of you coming to the rally? It will be the perfect learning experience for a new owner. The plan is to partner new owners with experienced owners as mentors. Good luck to your both.

We had a LaCrosse sensor under the propane cover for 10 years with no problem from moisture.

Here are a few pics of our 2-5/16” coupler. It basically appears just like the 2” one.

That sounds suspiciously like what happens to a camera bag with multiple Nikon bodies and lenses left sitting on the driveway as you are about to leave for a big trip. [attachment file=Steve-000 - Img_1483.jpg]

Our trailer (hull # 050) does not have an interior valve in the black flush line. It does have a one-way check valve and that is all you need to prevent black water from running back into the flush hose. And, never having to raise the cushion to manually operate the on-off valve. If one wanted to keep the original concept in place, I would remove the manual valve and replace it with an electric valve with a switch mounted in a convenient location. I did this with the winterizing valves at my pump so as to not have to jump through hoops in order to get to them when we wanted to pump water into our fresh tank while boondocking. Set up my water cans, flip the switch for the valves, turn on the water pump and voilà, refilling the tank.

I did this a couple of years ago when I bought the 3/4 ton diesel. It has a 2-1/2” receiver so I thought “why not?” The hitch I’m using now is rated at 20,000 pounds. That ought to handle my overweight Oliver nicely.

Been to the factory, have you...

I discovered that too when I "winterized" last fall. Mine has two pipes going through the floor.