ScubaRx

Can you say M-O-T-O-R-H-O-M-E? 😎

Good choice and to her advantage.

That thing looks just like what I always envisioned a tough truck should look like. I even have a picture I drew that looks almost exactly like it. I was six at the time.

The ones I've seen that were prewired had the the cables terminated under the port side bed (driver's side). The plates in the roof are 1/4" aluminum. You are correct about drilling and tapping. I would use 1/4-20 button head hex-drive screws. The proper bit to use is a #7 (0.201 inch) the closest decimal size bit is a 13/64 (0.203 inch), either will work just fine. You would use two screws per bracket. I don't exactly know when they started prewiring the units. My guess is: if yours has the plates it probably has the wiring. I will be at the factory Monday thru Wednesday. I'll inquire about the wiring and get back to you.

Not knowing the age of your pending trailer, some or all of this may not apply. During delivery, make sure the previous owners show you where all the solar wiring has been preinstalled. Also, where it begins and terminates. There should be wiring leading to the roof to connect the panels to through a combiner box mounted there. If not get them to show you how to retrieve the wires at the roof. In addition, the PO's may not know any of this. There are metal plates embedded in the fiberglass on the roof. These are attachment points for the brackets that hold the panels on. Make sure you understand where they are. During panel installation, you will drill through the outer shell fiberglass and the plate below it. Here's where you stop. Do not continue to drill after the metal plate is penetrated or you risk drilling through the inner fiberglass shell and ultimately into and through the ceiling. This will create a tiny unwanted round skylight. Not good. Let us know the model year and the hull number.

Does your trailer have solar? If not, you're correct, you would not like the desert at Quartzsite. If it does, you would have all the electricity you need as the sun shines pretty much all day every day (but it's not too hot). Water is simple to get and cheap (25 cents for 5 gallons) in Quartzsite, about 4 miles from where we will all be camped. And, your Oliver is uniquely equipped to pump that water into your onboard tanks. Dump before you set up and you should be good for a week or so. When needed, the dump station is available at the same place we get water. Think about it, you might want to give it a try. If you absolutely hate it, remember there are wheels on the trailer for a reason.

Coy will have his tracker up and running on his Elite. If all goes right, we will have one on an Elite II as well.

Can the justification be changed from center back to left?

We carried an earlier version of that Dewalt for a couple of years. It rode on the top shelf of the closet. We bought a smaller corded one at Quartzsite and leave the other at home. The Dewalt just took up too much room for the number of times we used it.

I’ll be happy to take your old suburban furnace off your hands, if you don’t want it.

A tip on writing complicated/long posts. I always write in a word processor or note pad and get it like I want it. Then copy and paste. Haven’t lost any yet.

The Outlaw Oliver because Outlaw is a family name.

I know a guy in Virginia that makes these vents up in any size if anybody needs one.

As Ken pointed out, if the furnace is producing heat, the fan has to be running. By your description of what’s happening, I suspect the main duct hose has come loose from the furnace and all the heat is spilling into the basement (tween decks) area. To check, remove the access cover at the curb side rear under the mattress. You should be able to immediately see if that is the issue.

It’s 10 am here In Bangkok.

Yes, the avatars are HUGHHHHH

Nan, We are in Bangkok at the moment. You should use which ever is attached to the trailer currently; cables or chains. You do not need both. I removed the cables from our trailer and replaced them with heavy duty chains. To me, they are easier to hook up than the stiff cables.

Although I’ve owned two PD TX Switches on two different Oliver’s with no problems, your idea of additional hold down capability using adhesive sounds like a good plan. Also, be careful to only tighten the screws until they are just snug.

I believe you may have better success with jacking the frame up behind the wheels rather than in front. My experience with using the front position is that it also lifts the front jack off the ground, particularly if you're trying to lift only the rear tire. This could turn into a disaster if the trailer decided to pivot on the opposite side tires. "But they're chocked", you say. Still taking a chance in my opinion. "Keep it hooked to the tow", now you're trying to lift the truck too.

Our fridge is always on propane when traveling. There are folks that successfully use 12 volts going down the road, I've never had consistent good luck with that. There are millions of campers on the road using their propane with no problems. You will need to make that personal decision yourself, there is no right or wrong answer.

There are a total of three in your neck of the woods.

You guys are 2-3 campsites up from where we were back in late May or early June.

It's amazing that you should mention those things. They were two of the very reasons that we abandoned the project!!!

Years ago, soon after the release of the Elite II, Robert Partee asked me to come up with a design for a rear hitch. His goal was to be able to mount a bicycle rack, but, as I envisioned a way to do it, I realized it would be strong enough to pull another vehicle. Understand, this never went beyond my most basic of thought processes. IF we had attempted it, our plan was to machine (or weld up) two lengths of STEEL tubing sized to fit the inside of the longitudinal frame rails. We planned to make them as long as we could force them inside the rails and still stick out about 6-8 inches. The rear bumper would have had to be removed and/or redesigned. The rear body bolts would have had to be removed and then reinserted after the steel was slid into the frame. Also, new holes would have to be drilled after the steel was in place. Way overkill to carry a couple of bikes. But, if I wanted to pull a forty foot stock trailer full of Percheron's behind the Oliver and could figure a way to overcome the tongue weight, this is the way I'd do it. In the end we abandoned this idea as being too too much. I did draw him a sketch of what, years later, would become the (now discontinued) two inch, top of frame mounted, dual receiver bicycle rack that they ultimately built (for a while.) Like a lot of things in the world, after the attorneys got through with this, it was abandoned because of the fear that some idiot would overload it (despite the ubiquitous "warning label" to the contrary) and the world would end. And I believe one ultimately did, so I suppose the lawyers were proven correct this time.

Unless your generator is over 3000 watts it is very unlikely to be able to run the heat strips with anything else drawing 120 VAC, especially the water heater. Maybe even the charger or fridge. It's an easy test. If you're trying to work with a 2000 watt or smaller generator, I know you can't run anything else. On a different note, does your furnace fan come on, run for 10-15 seconds and then the whole thing shuts down? If so, it sounds like your sail switch is sticking. If this be the case, open the rearmost curbside hatch under the bed where you can see the furnace and turn it on. While the fan is running slap the the top of the case with the palm of your hand several times - hard. Ours had started sticking in Colorado early in our Alaskan trip we took this year (Alaska, where the temperatures broke 100 year old heat records, so we really didn't ever need the furnace.) Anyway, this solved the problem and it worked after that. It's a simple fix but in our Hull #050 it is a bugger to pull the furnace to get at it.