ScubaRx

Hobo, don’t get too caught up in the readings. As had been pointed out, if the front of the Oliver is somewhat higher than the rear the sensor will think that there is more water in the gray tank than there actually is. A simple test that can be done right now is to simply see if you are able to put water into the tank from either of the two outputs (kitchen sink or shower/bathroom sink. Yes=tank not full. No=Water will back up meaning tank is full and you can plan to dump tomorrow morning. Otherwise, relax and have fun. On an additional note, if you wash dishes in the sink and allow food particles to go down the drain and end up in your gray tank it will result in the gray water smelling really bad. We wipe everything off prior to washing or usually just wash outside in a dishpan.

David, Tali and I are looking forward to seeing you guys again later this summer. We will begin our meandering trip north later this month. Will follow up with you soon.

Check the positions of the four valves near the water pump.

Plans? We ain’t got no stinkin’ plans! ???? We do have a lot of info. Let’s get together at the rally.

That is our plan. When we travel, we go to as many National Park units as possible so we tend to meander. This will be our first Alaskan foray. How long do you guys plan to be gone?

Those plugs tend to get moisture inside when it rains. Try to store it somewhere it can stay relatively dry. What happens is the moisture will short the positive (connected to the batteries) to the wire going to the clearance lights and make them come on. I wouldn’t seal it up too tightly. If moisture does get in it will just make it harder to remove.

Good choice, I promise you won’t go wrong there. More torque, better fuel mileage and generally larger fuel capacity.

I don't considerate it fall until mid October.

For that matter, I do the gray water the same way.

That is Correct...

We need hardly any excuse at all to travel and would probably attend. I would suggest that since the Eastern Rally is in the Spring/Early Summer (May in Alabama) the Western Rally be held in the Fall. That would give everyone that would like to attend both the optimum opportunity.

If you're coming in from a trip with water in the fresh tank that you plan to dump when you get there, open the drain valve for the fresh water tank about thirty miles from home. It will be empty when you get there. Try to remember to close it if you don't a mess when you start to fill it next time.

CedarForks, Very nice work. All trailers will have a check valve in the black flush line and some have a ball valve as well. Additionally, all of the early models used two 3-way valves in place of the four on-off ball valves to accomplish the same task. Some also have flush valves in the hot water line. Thanks for your effort

This is exactly what the system is designed to do. The air conditioner is not coming on, it’s the heat strips (and a/c fan) that are coming on to aid the furnace in rapidly bringing the temperature up to the thermostat set point. Auto fan setting bypasses this function.

The rubber strips are not screwed into place. They are glued to the top of the frame members and the lower, outer shell is simply sitting on top of them. There are several (unimportant) reasons for these strips moving and sometimes becoming displaced. The important thing to you is to get it back into place. The easiest scenario is to take it back to the factory and they will happily fix it for you. Your profile is missing any pertinent information about where you live and I assume it's unlikely you are close enough to return. What you can do to fix this: Make sure the fresh water and gray tank is empty (no sense in lifting extra weight.) Take a 4x4 or 4x6 lawn timber and cut it short enough to go between the frame rails (about 5 feet or so.) Place it under the trailer adjacent to the cross member with the displaced rubber strip. Put a scissors-type jack about 15 inches from each end and gently lift the underside of the body (1/4" will do) and slide the strip back into place (soapy water will definitely help.) Put a little caulk along side it and it won't move again. This little bit of movement will not harm the trailer. A helper or two would be nice so both jacks can be moved at once.

You state " (I) like what I see in the small twin bed Oliver model." Be aware that there are two different sizes in the current Oliver lineup. The smaller of the two is the single axle 18.5 foot Elite. The larger is the dual axle 23.5 foot Elite II. Only the Elite II is available as a twin bed layout. I will address your questions with the Elite II in mind. There are those that own an Oliver and full time in it. We are not one of them so I can't speak to actually living in 40 square feet. We do travel extensively (6-8 months of the year, broken apart into 3 or 4 trips) in it and I am fine living in it within those lengths of time. But, I am always ready to get back home for a few weeks/months and then always ready to leave again. I don't know if I would feel this way were we not traveling in an Oliver. As snobbish as it may sound, the SOB's (some other brand) do nothing for me but other folks may be less discriminating than I. We boondock almost exclusively and yes, "one (can) be equipped with enough of a modern solar/battery/inverter system to make one almost fully electric for a lot of boondocking." You will want/need propane of course (get the larger tanks) and adding a generator of sufficient size to easily run your air conditioner would round everything out for all eventualities. If you plan to travel with only your dog, I would get the twin bed model you propose with one side a bed and the other side outfitted as a couch. If you find yourself in need of another bed it can quickly be converted. Since you plan to buy a new tow vehicle make sure you get one with plenty of power to get you where you want to go efficiently and comfortably. Learn all you can about tow capacities for the various towing prospects and you will save a lot of headaches and money. Over the past 11 years, we've owned both and Elite and Elite II and have had four different tow vehicles, two for each one. First was a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited for the Elite. Our first trip to the West was a joke. I wondered if it would get us over the mountains. A fully loaded vehicle with a 3500 lb towing capacity, two adults and two dogs pulling a 4000 lb trailer...not good. Quickly traded the Jeep for a Chevrolet Tahoe (lost $7000 in the deal.) Tahoe did fine for the Elite for 5 years. Sold the Elite, bought the Elite II, pulled with the Tahoe...mediocre experience. Traded the Tahoe for a 1500 Sierra, 11,800 lb tow capacity, 6.2L gas burner w/Max Tow Package...much better experience but still under powered in the 10,000+ foot mountain passes and rather dismal mileage (always less than 11mpg.) Traded the Sierra for a Silverado 2500HD with a 6.6L diesel...extraordinary experience, never slows down when tackling anything less than a 10% grade and using the exhaust brake and down shifting mean rarely touching the brakes going down the other side. All this with a 31% increase in fuel mileage. Full disclosure: our trailer is built much heavier than current models and, fully load with gear and water, will weigh in excess of 7200 lbs.

Our refrigerator runs almost exclusively on propane. On a short trip (less than 1 month) it's unlikely we'll be plugged in at all. A longer trip means we will probably stop by a friend or relative's house somewhere along the line and sponge 120 volts off them. We do not turn it off when fueling. I don't have a cooling fan and have never needed one to keep the fridge cool. It seems I'm guilty of probably being like most of all the other Travel Trailer/Motor Home/RV owners in the world and have never done any preventative maintenance concerning my propane refrigerator because we've never had an issue with them in either of the two Oliver's we've owned and frankly, I wasn't aware I was supposed to.

Drill a 1/2” hole (from the bottom is best) in each corner. Problem eliminated.

Battery systems as provided by Oliver: Standard - 2 x 12V Lead/Acid @ 100Ah wired in parallel - total Ah=200 - Usable Ah=100 Optional #1 - 4 x 12V Lead/Acid @100Ah each all wired in parallel - total Ah=400 - Usable Ah=200 Optional #2 - 4 x 6V Trojan AGM @ 200Ah each 2 pairs wired in series and each pair wired in parallel - total Ah=400 - Usable Ah=200

Thanks for this info. I was contemplating buying a bottle.

Not clear on all the negativity on a product that has not yet on the market or even been viewed, but I’m pretty sure nobody will be required to buy it.

We do something similar. We do our showering inside and just leave the gray valve open. Like your system, the shower water still ends up in the bushes.

We’ve never regretted buying the larger generator. I’m all about overkill and it never fails to supply what power we need. Yeah, it’s heavy, but I have an overhead hoist to remove and replace all the stuff I can’t, or don’t choose, to manage alone (generator, tool box in truck and propane tanks.

The graphics will peel cleanly off with the use of a heat gun or hair dryer.

I could 'splain that to you but it would only make the story longer...