ScubaRx

Our refrigerator runs almost exclusively on propane. On a short trip (less than 1 month) it's unlikely we'll be plugged in at all. A longer trip means we will probably stop by a friend or relative's house somewhere along the line and sponge 120 volts off them. We do not turn it off when fueling. I don't have a cooling fan and have never needed one to keep the fridge cool. It seems I'm guilty of probably being like most of all the other Travel Trailer/Motor Home/RV owners in the world and have never done any preventative maintenance concerning my propane refrigerator because we've never had an issue with them in either of the two Oliver's we've owned and frankly, I wasn't aware I was supposed to.

Drill a 1/2” hole (from the bottom is best) in each corner. Problem eliminated.

Battery systems as provided by Oliver: Standard - 2 x 12V Lead/Acid @ 100Ah wired in parallel - total Ah=200 - Usable Ah=100 Optional #1 - 4 x 12V Lead/Acid @100Ah each all wired in parallel - total Ah=400 - Usable Ah=200 Optional #2 - 4 x 6V Trojan AGM @ 200Ah each 2 pairs wired in series and each pair wired in parallel - total Ah=400 - Usable Ah=200

Thanks for this info. I was contemplating buying a bottle.

Not clear on all the negativity on a product that has not yet on the market or even been viewed, but I’m pretty sure nobody will be required to buy it.

We do something similar. We do our showering inside and just leave the gray valve open. Like your system, the shower water still ends up in the bushes.

We’ve never regretted buying the larger generator. I’m all about overkill and it never fails to supply what power we need. Yeah, it’s heavy, but I have an overhead hoist to remove and replace all the stuff I can’t, or don’t choose, to manage alone (generator, tool box in truck and propane tanks.

The graphics will peel cleanly off with the use of a heat gun or hair dryer.

I could 'splain that to you but it would only make the story longer...

Our Yamaha EF3000iSEB's footprint is 26.8" x 17.5" and it fits quite nicely in the box with the angled corners. It actually has about an inch clearance on either end and the back with about three inches in front.

The frame fits up inside longitudinal channels that are molded into the underside of the body. The only thing between the body and the frame is a layer of 3/16"-1/4" rubber glued to the top of the frame. The body is then bolted solidly to the frame. If the frame moves the body moves with it and vice versa. The movement of the body (and the frame with it) relative to the tires that you see is because of the springs. If you support the frame in four places the perceived movement will be far less.

The old style with the dual receivers.

This is an excellent choice. I put this system in with all 8 channels used. I even monitor the temperature of the water heater. I replaced the 120V power supply with USB cord.

I just measured the placement of the holes from the 2” hitch and laid out the holes on the 2-5/16” hitch to match.

That sounds like an internal neutral/ground fault. When the neutral and ground come together in our trailers it will blow a GFI Outlet.

Spike, I drilled them in a drill press. If you don’t own one, they could be drilled with a large hand held. If I remember correctly, the holes were 5/8” or so. Most folks that don’t have a drill press won’t have bits that large so you may have to get some help.

Exciting, are either/both of you coming to the rally? It will be the perfect learning experience for a new owner. The plan is to partner new owners with experienced owners as mentors. Good luck to your both.

We had a LaCrosse sensor under the propane cover for 10 years with no problem from moisture.

Here are a few pics of our 2-5/16” coupler. It basically appears just like the 2” one.

That sounds suspiciously like what happens to a camera bag with multiple Nikon bodies and lenses left sitting on the driveway as you are about to leave for a big trip. [attachment file=Steve-000 - Img_1483.jpg]

Our trailer (hull # 050) does not have an interior valve in the black flush line. It does have a one-way check valve and that is all you need to prevent black water from running back into the flush hose. And, never having to raise the cushion to manually operate the on-off valve. If one wanted to keep the original concept in place, I would remove the manual valve and replace it with an electric valve with a switch mounted in a convenient location. I did this with the winterizing valves at my pump so as to not have to jump through hoops in order to get to them when we wanted to pump water into our fresh tank while boondocking. Set up my water cans, flip the switch for the valves, turn on the water pump and voilà, refilling the tank.

I did this a couple of years ago when I bought the 3/4 ton diesel. It has a 2-1/2” receiver so I thought “why not?” The hitch I’m using now is rated at 20,000 pounds. That ought to handle my overweight Oliver nicely.

Been to the factory, have you...

I discovered that too when I "winterized" last fall. Mine has two pipes going through the floor.

You should not have to add any weight up front. That amount of rear weight probably won't make over 60 pounds difference on the tongue.