ScubaRx

Do you have a switch panel in your rearmost upper cabinet? When was the last time your water pump was operational? There is an additional pump switch in the bathroom. I believe it is under the upper ledge of the caddy type insert in the sink vanity. It will act as a 3-way for the pump. You can check the wiring on the back of the switch in the cabin. Make sure the wires are all still connected. There should be three. The one in the bath is probably more difficult to check but I would try that one too.

These pumps are capable of being run with no water for some time. That alone should not blow a fuse. Do you have a multimeter?

The pump does sense water pressure but only to the extent that it comes on whenever you open a faucet. It can not tell whether there is actually water in the tank. It appears that this problem is that there is no power getting to the pump therefore it can’t come on.

Ok, that tells me what happened. The overflow is in front of the tires. The drain is behind the tires. Apparently, the drain valve was open. The drain valve is not one of the ones located around the water pump. It is located on the the floor below the water pump. Make sure this valve is closed and refill the fresh water tank. As for why the pump light does not come on, that would be an electrical issue. First check the fuse and we’ll go from there.

Just parking on a slope seems an unlikely scenario for making the freshwater tank drain. There is no way it can drain through the overflow. Please let us know exactly where the water you saw draining was coming from. Was it in front of the curb side tires or behind them?

mdernier, welcome to the forum. From your post, it’s apparent you’ve been doing a lot of prospective and intelligent thinking about your future Oliver, particularly the aspect of towing. That is wise and fun to do. You are going to have the time of your life come April and it will be here before you know it. Your profile does not have any information listed about you or any potential tow vehicle you plan to use. Do you actually need the Andersen system? If your tow vehicle is big enough, it is unnecessary. Personally, I’ve never seen the need for it in ten years of towing two different Oliver’s with four different vehicles.

So you’ve established that your barn outlet is wired incorrectly. You need to reverse your neutral and ground on that outlet. That should solve the issue.

None of the early models had this valve installed under the dinette seat. When they, all of a sudden, appeared a year or so ago, I questioned the need for it to the folks at Oliver. Nobody was ever able to give me a reasonable answer as to why it was being installed since there was and is a backflow preventer in that line. It made no sense to have both. Now, as I understand it, they have eliminated it. Now that makes sense.

This is the one we are using. The way it is shipped it requires being plugged into 110VAC. To me, this is never optimal in our trailers. The unit is supplied with the “wall wart” and cord. Close examination of the wart reveals that the output voltage is 5VDC. I bought a USB cord with the proper end on it for the monitor so now it gets its power from the trailer via one of the USP ports. As you probably already know, USB output is 5VDC.

I believe the casters could be considered "just cause" for law enforcement look into your intended usage of said milk crate. Be careful out there.

Just make sure the law doesn't catch you using it for any nefarious purpose and I think you'll be OK.

Your system is preforming normally, no need to unhook anything. Change your fan off "auto" and it will work as expected.

That's darn cold, Pete. Eight degrees for 3 days should freeze the balls off a brass monkey so I'm not surprised the plumbing bummed out. In our experience, with the coldest we've been in around the mid to low 20's, if the interior temps are comfortable the spaces between the hulls are OK. I have a system of eight temperature sensors installed in and around the OO-II with three between the hulls that all transmit to a single console so I can monitor them at a glance. FYI everybody, wind chill has no effect on inanimate objects. The trailer will never go below ambient outside temperature no matter the wind speed. However the wind speed will affect how rapidly the temperature of an object will reach ambient.

My custom front graphic is about 20 inches across.

We run into the same problem (albeit at the other end of the temperature spectrum) when we spend a month or so camped in the desert near Quartzsite ?. However, the solution is exactly the same - we take water to the trailer from another source and pump it into the fresh tank with the onboard system that is built into your Oliver. Although we dump our gray water on the ground in the desert, presumably in a commercial campground that has full services (even though the water is off) the sewer connection should be open for occasional use.

We were camped in Tombstone, AZ several years ago in January. This was our first night to ever camp that early in the season. The first night there the temps fell to below freezing and not expecting the drop or knowing any better we left the hose connected that night and it froze solid. There was no damage but the next day at a Camping World we bought one of these. We used it several times on that same trip with great results and have not had an opportunity to use it since. If we were traveling in the areas you camp with your winter activities, I’d carry it with me and use it every time. Notice the double-male fitting that comes with the hose. Mating it with either of the female ends on the hose will allow you to have the 110VAC plug at either end of the hose, a very nice feature. Most of the time with hookups there is a 110VAC outlet near the hose bib. We have a 110VAC outlet in our basement and can plug it in there if needed. As long as you have heat going inside your trailer your system will not freeze with the conditions you describe. Make sure to open some access ports to the basement areas to allow them to warm from the ambient cabin air. The furnace and water heater will put heat into that area also.

Going to Muncie, IN to be with one daughter. Probably will not take the trailer. That way we can go in the GMC Canyon diesel instead of the Silverado Beast. The Canyon gets 35 mpg vs the Silverado's 22 mpg.

My suspicion is that the water stopped at the rear due to you removing the source (water from the city inlet.) Further it is probably still dripping from the front due to the amount of water that has collected along the length of the trailer. Lower the front end slightly and see if the water won't run out quicker. The quicker you get the bulk of the water out, the better off you'll be but there won't be any lasting damage. Probably just a small leak. For the repair, some of this or this might be easier than dealing with the teflon tape.

I have the Fiamma awning and have no experience with the Carefree brand so I defer to those comments from those that do. However, at the time your trailer was built there was no choice in awnings due to the shooting/massacre at the Orlando, FL distribution center for Fiamma. The black water valve is a simple 5 minute job for you to adjust. There is no way to pressure test the black tank and valve at the factory. Due to the fact that yours was a cold weather delivery, to test the valve, it would have required putting water into the black tank and then winterizing afterward. Sorry for your disappointment.

Let me see if I can help you. You state that "...Water is dripping from the rear and front “vent” on the dinette side only..." From that, I gather that it is dripping from two places (front and rear of trailer.) Does it drip constantly and consistently? I suspect that IF there is a leak it is coming from a single source. But based on the size of the puddle in the picture you included, I would expect a lot more water from a constant leak. A single leak could cause water to run out at both ends of the trailer due to the fact that the collection channel runs the entire length. If you are going to chase after a leak, I would start with the last fitting you replaced. On the other hand, it could merely be condensation between the shells. You state you are in Las Vegas and have been using heat at night. The outside humidity is probably very low but if it is cold enough to require heat then the temperature differential between the two shells will be significant. Every time you guys exhale you are releasing moisture into the air. Two people could easily put out a couple of quarts a day. If you are cooking inside on the propane cook-top, there would been even more.

It does not appear that the hooks on the current safety "chains" would fit through the holes in this optional equipment.

There were two early Oliver trailers that were painted and completed at the factory. Don't bother asking, they state they will NEVER do it again. Not because the trailers didn't look fantastic, but rather the amount of work involved. The ideal way would be to color the gel-coat during hull production. They won't do that either due to the amount of work involved in cleaning the equipment between colors. But...Since this is a fiberglass trailer it can easily be painted (think Corvette.) If you have the equipment and the know-how do it yourself. If not, find yourself a competent body shop and have them do it. I think it is a wonderful idea and, though it might be pricey, easily doable. Let us know if this comes to fruition. [attachment file=Campers Vegas 035.jpg] [attachment file=Campers Vegas 052.jpg]

"Are 12V batteries hooked up in series or parallel?" 12 Volt batteries are always hooked up parallel if your intention is to keep the system at 12V.

Duane, I am relieved you're at home although reading your account of the last part of the trip wore me out!!! Now the fun really begins.

Hello Trainman, I have been following the very "interesting" discussion over on the Escape forum about the body alignment issue and I will tell you here that I completely agree with your assessment. I decided it would not be prudent to comment as such on their forum but if I were interested in that model it would be a deal breaker for me. Anyway...welcome to our forum. I know you are looking to buy (something) and asking good questions and I thought I'd jump in and address some of yours. We have talked to many prospective owners over the 10 years we've owned an Oliver. The question of solar and whether it's needed always comes up. I always respond with the question "What kind of camping are you planning on doing?" You've already answered with "I personally don’t really care to Boondock." As others have pointed out, you will have no need for, nor will you benefit from, the available Solar Option. In addition you won't need an inverter and you won't need the larger battery bank. You might consider it because of the additional amp hours it will provide in case you wanted to boondock at Walmart or Cracker Barrel or where ever during travel days to save on paying for a place to just park overnight. Further your stated that you "...don’t think that Oliver trailers owners are that big on Boondocking..." To that I would beg to differ. Based on the number of folks that have attended mine and Tali's Boondocking seminars and the questions that are asked, I would say that more owners boondock that not. Nobody here is going to judge someone on their camping style. As you inferred, it's all about getting out away from home and enjoying whatever interests you. Good luck on your quest for your perfect trailer. We all hope you choose an Oliver and outfit it so it suits just you. If your do, I am confident that you will not be disappointed. My father always told me "Nobody was ever sorry they bought the best there is."