ScubaRx

We always let the fan run constantly. Especially with the AC, the fan does not go on and off with the compressor, but it is the same with the heat strips.

Fuses, you really can't have too many. I carry at least a few fuses for everything that needs one with the bulk of the collection being 10, 20 and 30 amp ATO blade type. I also recommend a few 30 amp slo-blo glass type for the jacks. This will tell you more that you every wanted to know about automotive fuses. I also carry a spare water pump and an extra head for the rear jacks. These are by no means necessary but I have them so.... I lead a group of FG trailers on a trip earlier this year into the Utah back country and one of them had a water pump go out in his trailer. He spent the best part of two days sourcing and installing it. I would have given him my extra but he had left to search for a replacement before I heard about it.

John Sandy reminds me so much of our white Timber Wolf we had back in the late 80's and early 90's. Her name was Marabou and she was an amazing animal to own. She rarely barked but did she ever love to howl. We would often have a "group" howl. It got to the point that all it took to get her started was to pucker my lips, close my eyes and throw my head back. Seeing Sandy has brought back many fond memories.

L&P, you would be fine at those temps to just place a small electric heater inside during the night. As to your question of when, living in the deep South, I don't go to the extent of actual full-blown winterization. I just blow out the lines. Malcolm Monlezun (a forum member and very experienced RV'r) lives outside of Denver and would be able to share his knowledge of using RV antifreeze. I think he may be on the road currently but hopefully he can chime in here.

On all the later models I have inspected, the gas line running the length of the trailer on the starboard side terminates with a plug. This would be where the stern gas fitting would be connected.

Accents? We don't have no stinkin' accents!

I designed the solar system installed on the first Elite II built (mine.) I decided I wanted to use Blue Sky Equipment because it looked like the best on the market. It was good looking, had a ton of features and allowed you to really customize the system to best suit the end user. A downside of all this was, with its four levels of menu options, it was and still is complicated to set up and it overwhelmed a lot of the early owners that chose to have the solar option installed. At that time (2013), the most cost effective panels were 100 watts each and I chose to use two with them to be mounted on the roof. I also chose the Blue Sky 2512iX-HV Controller and the Blue Sky IPN PRO Remote Meter with current shunt. In less than a year, 160 watt panels were the same price that we had paid for the 100 watters we originally used so they started installing two of them for a total of 320 watts. This was the equipment that became standard for Oliver’s solar package. I added a third 100 watt panel to my array so I now have 300 watts and it works perfectly. Having 320 watts could only be better and it is my personal belief that that is sufficient. We have never failed to achieve a full charge the day after using our usual overnight average of about 50-60 amps. Usually we are back up to full by 2 PM. We have the 4x6V Trojan AGM’s. I know other owners with the 320 watt Blue Sky System have had very similar or better results. I agree with Reed on the Zamp system not being an ideal choice. The decision to switch from Blue Sky equipment to the Zamp equipment was prompted by the service manager a couple of years ago (he is no longer with Oliver.) When I questioned his decision about making the switch he stated to me that the Blue Sky system was "too complicated and the owners did not want or need to know all the information that it provided !" He apparently thought a "simpler" system was in our best interest. The solar package can be added after the fact. I am currently assisting another owner in installing a Blue Sky system. Oliver has agreed to add the panels (to the roof) and wire them to the controller and remote meter, that we will install beforehand. Oliver realized early on that customers that did not initially buy the solar package might decide at a later date that they just had to have one. Installation on a completed trailer entails some difficulties. Running the rather large wires, mounting the rooftop panels and fishing the wires from the roof down to the controller are just a few. Their forethought has made the job much easier. There are backing plates molded into the roof so that the panel brackets have something to attach to besides just fiberglass. There is a wire chase molded into the roof to allow you to run wiring between the shells. Some of the solar wiring is already in place for this very scenario.

Jason I see the sidebar at the very bottom of the page. That's not a bad place for it if you know where to look. It does not take up any real estate down there. We could rename it the bottom bar.

Horace, you are correct in that not all the trailers were being corrected in a timely manner. I should have stated "They were supposed to be repairing them as they came back into the factory for any work..." I agree that this was/is a problem because ours had been back to the factory at least a half dozen times before it was fixed. I drove 4500 miles on a trip listening to our truck almost constantly beep a warning of a brake disconnect. A half dozen calls to the factory during that trip yielded us no relief. When I took it in, Justin immediately knew what the problem was. It took all of 5 minutes to fix it. Obviously not everybody knows to look for that particular issue. I spoke with Richie Carroll this morning and he will be addressing this situation with management today. A solution will be worked out quickly.

All the early trailers (say, below hull #100) were wired with the tow vehicle ground not bonded to the trailer. Ours had that problem. The white wire (ground) from the vehicle (thru the umbilical) must be connected to the buss bar in order for the brakes to work properly. They repaired them as they came back into the factory for any work, but most likely there are some still out there that have never been addressed. So, if your trailer is wired this way, it has everything to do with the trailer disconnect (brake) issues. Putting a six inch jumper from the white wire to the buss bar will solve that. As was stated previously, the only ground for the trailer from the vehicle was thru the ball mount and this was the case in those early builds. That worked pretty well when everything was brand new. As the ball was worn down, the connection became intermittent (thus the connect errors.)

Unless it looks like rain or the weather is cold, we always travel with the windows open about 4 inches and the MaxxFan cover raised to create a cross ventilation. Never had any trouble unless we ran thru some rain and I either forgot and left them open or had to get out in the pouring rain to close them! I don't own a manual so I can't comment on why they would state "that the trailer windows should be closed when the trailer is moving." Ignorance is apparently bliss.

You can open the valve manually to dump the tank, but probably, the cable only slipped out of the valve, it is secured with a set screw. Be careful trying to remove the roll pins, I broke a handle years ago on the OOI trying to do just that. The cable will slide completely out of the housing if you want to lubricate it.

Looking good. Welcome to the Club.

The beds can't be lowered, all the space below is allocated. On one side it's the water heater, water pump and furnace. On the other side it's the inverter and solar charge controller. On both sides you have the wheel wells and rear jacks protruding up into this space. I suppose you could leave all those things off and just set it up as a tiny house.

I have observed that Oliver has switched their standard fittings from PEX to Sharkbite, apparently to save time and ease in initial installation and in repairs. I guess the labor saved makes up for the additional cost of the fittings. And no expensive tools to keep up with. I bought a set of PEX tools earlier this year when I replaced the manual valves at the water pump with electric ones to facilitate using the auxiliary water fill system. Now flip a couple of switches and the tank fills easily!

We were going to do this but the chair kept falling into the hot tub. <grin, sorry>

Apparently the short caused a back flow of power from your coach batteries. Probably would not happen again but this is a good example of all the strange and weird things that can happen. Sometimes it makes you want to pull what little hair you may still have on your head completely out.

Brad, I would expect that to be normal since you're dealing with two transmitters. One in the camera and another in the WVRX1 Digital Wireless Receiver Box. As an aside, I was going to start another thread along this line, so I ask you indulgence in a slight hijack. For those of you that have this two camera setup, I have an extra WVOM713-MO auto pairing 7" monitor like the one you use in your tow vehicle that I would like to sell. As I understand it, some folks move their monitor to the inside of the trailer at night so they can see what's going on in the front of their trailer. PM me if interested. I now return you to your regularly scheduled thread....

My level pops out of a hole, I assumed (ass, you, me, etc) that all the jack heads were all the same. If that were a constant problem, I'd drill a hole under the bubble level.

You are correct about more amp hours, but realistically there are only 25 more usable. This would work out to about one nights use. You are correct about the weight T-105's weigh 62 lbs, AGM's weigh 65 lbs. That is 12 pounds difference, I doubt you could tell the difference. You do have to check the water levels in the T-105's. Is it "...so onerous that it justifies the higher cost and lower AHs?..." to me, absolutely!!! Both of these systems include greasable wet bolts, the difference is the heavy duty compression rubber in the center of the equalizer in the EZ-Flex. Most of us have the EZ-Flex, but some have suggested the other one. I think the choice boils down to personal preference, but you should definitely opt for one of them. I installed the EZ-Flex after delivery (my trailer is the earliest one built-no available options at the time) and having the factory do the work is the way to go. Sorry I can't help you with your tow vehicle question. Congratulations on your new Oliver and welcome to the club.

Scott told Tali that Oliver has contracted with a local vet to keep your dogs free of charge while you are at the factory.

There are many fine fiberglass trailers on the market. They span the whole budget range from economy to luxury. Try attending a rally or two and you will surly see a brand that suits your needs in functionality and price. The search is a lot of fun. We are here to answer any questions so fire away.

You do know you don't have to remove the jack cover to use the manual handle.

Tali likes an Oasis of Olivers

OK boys, play nicely or there'll be a smackin'...