mossemi

The following information applies to Hull 193. SeeLevel monitors fresh, grey and black water levels and the battery voltage. In order to display that information on my Cerbo GX Touch display, a new SeeLevel display and a modified comm cable from the SeeLevel display to the Cerbo GX was required. Mopeka monitors the propane level of the propane tanks and required a Mopeka Pro Check Universal for steel tanks for each tank to be monitored. RuuviTag's monitor the temperature, humidity, air pressure and motion. I have 3 of this model in Hull 193. The RuuviTag Pro is available in IP67 or IP68/ IP69 versions for wet and rough conditions. I have one IP67 model in the propane box. Mopeka and RuuviTag sensors communicate with the Cerbo GX via bluetooth. I am including some resources that may be of help. Mossey Victron Cerbo GX Links.pdf

Mopeka only monitors the propane tanks. They are magnetic and stick to the bottom of the propane tanks. RuuviTags are from Finland and that is where I got mine. They have been around long enough to be sold on the web. Check out the web site and compare packaging and photos. The black one with mounting ears is the 3 in 1 and is weatherproof. That’s the one I have in the propane box. My others are all white and the have silicone holders much like Apple Air Tags you find on Amazon. Mossey

Very fine craftsmanship and functionality, as we all have come to expect. Say hello to Mirna for Krunch and I. Mossey

Thanks for the kind words. Sorry, I don’t document my projects very well. The MOP's I’ve written have always been from my point of view and I have a difficult time writing them so everybody can follow my thoughts. A little history of how I got to this point. My Xantrex 2000 ProWatt inverter failed in my second year of ownership and I wasn’t confident enough to start buying Victron gear and putting in a Multi Plus instead of another Xantrex. When one of my Trojan 105's failed, I moved to 2 Battle Borns and added a BMV 712. The Smart Shunt was not available and I never have really used the 712 display, it’s always been mounted in the below the seating/sleeping area’s. So I used an old cellular phone and Bluetooth to communicate with the 712. I also have tested the Bluetooth by moving the 712 display high and low and RF always propagate's better with elevation. Moving on, I used a Raspberry Pi micro computer and display running Victron software. That was a $400 experiment that just wetted my appetite for more Victron gear. Because I was already running Victron software, I was aware of Victron's plans to integrate SeeLevel, Mopeka and Ruuvi sensors and decided to upgrade to a Cerbo GX with a 7 inch display. The Ruuvi tags were the easiest add and the Mopeka was pretty simple as well. The SeeLevel required a new display and a modified Comm cable. Some place along this journey I also added a Victron MPPT 150/45 SC and two 90 watt solar panels and a third Battle Born. I'm never satisfied with the mods I do, so things are in a state of flux most of the time. And I failed planning one 0 one. Enough about my limitations! There is a Ruuvi sensor in the fridge, on the kitchen counter, tie wrapped to the SS jack post and the fourth is in the Propane box for outside temp readings. I am adding some locations for information on items you mentioned. Victron's community forum is a great place for answers and don’t forget the Air forums. There are some very smart people there with Victron gear.

@RonbrinkJust adding some pictures to @jd1923 comments. The first picture is from the Smart Shunt Manual and the second is of my installation via the Victron Remote Management or VRM over WiFi. Mossey

Just wait until you get old!😉 It was a terrible incident and close enough to home that I do remember when it happened. Mossey

I sat through a RV Electricity presentation by Mike Sokol at the 2024 Florida Super Show last Wednesday. He recommended the Smart Plug and gave it a very positive review. Mossey

Amazon of course! Mossey

I appreciate your clarification! Mossey

This link shows the Amazon price history for the Victron Smart Shunt. I'm not a math major but I don’t see a 30% inflation rate for this product. Mossey https://3cmls.co/US/B01CGFF8Q2

I didn’t know Gerard had a Florida branch or that it was closed down. The Fiamma company makes several different RV accessories including the awning on our 2017 LE2. The included link has information detailing a 2017 workplace shooting at their factory in Orlando, FL. Mossey https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orlando_factory_shooting

I am familiar with that policy, so we’ll leave yesterday behind. Your DC - DC layout looks like it’s well thought out and executed. Keep us posted on your real world experiences and thank you for the 'show and tell'. Mossey

I just saw this YouTube video about the new Victron 50A DC-DC charger by Nate and Steph of EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers. It might be worth the wait! Mossey https://youtu.be/ByhIxhA-x8M?si=54SM0UL8sDgV3KJm

Huh! I always thought that was an automatically resetting breaker. Mossey

@Ronbrink Any display that is on may be running on 12v, such as the smart shunt's Bluetooth radio you are communicating with while viewing the Victron Connect app. The propane/CO Detector is always on for safety reasons. The only way that comes to mind is a DC clamp on meter and start testing circuits. Mossey

I will say that @jd1923 has some very good information in his response to your issue. I, like @jd1923, also do not under stand the 7 value in your EMS display's output. I only have 4 different values in my display and you are indicating that you have 5 values. Watch your EMS display before, during and while turning on the microwave. The display may have some different values during the error sequence. Good luck, Mossey @jd1923 and I are on the same wavelength😮. The following is from my manual. Note: If the EMS cuts the power to the RV it will show a PE code following the E code. This denotes the previous error or why the EMS shut down. Example: The EMS cuts power for low voltage on Line 1, and then the power is restored. The Error Code reads E 0, but the PE code reads PE 4 which tells the user low voltage was the reason for the EMS previously cutting power. This PE error code will be deleted when power is disconnected from the EMS. So if the 7 value is a previous error, it should follow the E0 value in the next screen and read PE 7. Mossey Edit: I removed my reference to the Xantrex inverter due to the fact that @mccc99 never mentioned an inverter in his OP. I was multitasking during the Sugar Bowl and confused myself and probably other's as well.

@Ronbrink Thank you for the detailed reply. Hopefully your son will find the solution tomorrow. I don’t think it has been mentioned in the original or any follow up post about batteries, but when I am working with batteries I always disconnect the negative/B- cable first and cover the terminal with nonconducting material to prevent any unintended contact with a ground source which will re-energize the circuit. If I am removing the battery, I will then disconnect the positive/B+. I reassemble in the reverse order. I will add that some people place the battery disconnect switch on the negative side of the battery. Good luck, Mossey

Glad everything is back in working order and you were able to move out of the hotel! I do have at least one question, how was it determined that only one battery was bad to begin with? I don’t think you mentioned that in your initial post. Mossey

So I’m still thinking about your attempted battery cutoff install. And the forum is a tough format for troubleshooting, kind of like a visually impaired art critic In order to have the 12v lights fading on and off and the radio making strange noises after disconnecting the B+ cable, there must have been 12v somewhere in the trailer that wasn’t coming from the battery. So I have a couple of questions. 1. Was the house battery negative disconnected or just the positive? You didn’t mention the B- cable. 2. I hate to do this, but I assume the tow vehicle was not connected, correct? 3. Your forum signature states that you have a Renogy DC-DC installed, which I have no working knowledge of. Is it installed in the Oliver? Does it only work with the ignition on? Does it have the ability to store energy, maybe an internal capacitor? 4. You might try turning off all 12v breakers and removing fuses. Verify the power is off with the Victron Smart Shunt app or a DC clamp on Amp meter. Then remove the main battery fuse as a different method of disconnecting the 12v supply from the battery. At least you would be inside if the fireworks started again. I’ll keep thinking of troubleshooting methods because I hate being baffled by the unknown. Mossey

My factory installed our EMS remote display was installed under the street side bed. This was a great location for me because I then got the choice of where to move it to. I found out while researching a new location that I could purchase another remote display and link both the displays together in a mast/slave configuration. Ultimately I just decided to move the original display to a more convenient location, as shown below. My normal new site setup entails testing all outlets available at the pedestal. When I have determined the outlet I will connect to, I’m pretty confident it will work at that time, so the inside upper cabinet location is fine for me. If at a later time a condominium moves in next door and interrupts our power supply, resulting in reduced voltage, all I have to do is move the picnic tablecloth and the display with an error chart taped to the wall above it, allows for pretty quick troubleshooting. And if it’s raining or snowing, I don’t have to go outside to verify the pedestal is providing the correct voltage Mossey

That’s funny coming from "ol' squeaky" but does remind me, can I borrow that first dollar you ever made? I know you were saving it for a new fly rod, but I sure could use it for some new Victron kit! Mossey

Sorry I’m late to this topic! This is what I use, since I don’t own a 1/2" Allen wrench! Mossey

@Ronbrink I think we all recognize the each Oliver is somewhat unique, whether from the factory or because an owner has made changes to suit their particular needs. So I try very hard to avoid making definitive statements and I try to avoid talking in absolutes. So I will not talk about your Oliver specifically, but I will talk about mine. Whenever I am working on the 12v system in my LE2 hull 193, the first step for me is to turn off the Blue Sea battery cutoff switch. I installed this switch, not Oliver and I do have solar. If I am plugged into an AC power source and I want to work on the batteries, I will also turn off the 12v charging breaker in the Progressive Dynamic power center. And I will also turn off the breakers I installed before and after the solar charger if needed. The last breaker I may need to turn off is the flag breaker Oliver installed which is I believe is the first device connected to the Progressive Dynamic's 12v charging circuit. And then I would use a 12v tester of some sort to verify the device I was going to work on was in fact isolated. All that being said, I would guess your 120v input to the charging section of the Progressive Dynamic was the source of the 12v output to the Oliver. Mossey

HoHoHo and a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all! Mossey

Well congratulations on the your new grandson! I am sure it will make for a special Christmas and New Year! Mossey