mossemi

You should have a switch for the inverter on the wall and not have to go under the bed to turn it on. Mine in above the dinette.

Take a look at Mike’s post, it might be a solution. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/twin-bed-conversion/#post-150560

Yep, we use a vinegar mix to kill weeds in our driveway and any where else needed. Is that discoloration on the runway to the hanger??

I bought this brand a year ago for a plumbing problem andI have used it several times. I got the 23’ model as a lightning deal for $21 dollars. It’s not wireless but it does plug into my android phone and works with a free app. They have different lens available.

I haven’t seen any rust issues during the 3 months I have been using them. As I mentioned in the original post, it takes about an 1-1/4” of pipe cleaner to reach the middle track and I then bend it down to about a 45° angle to facilitate the water flow. I also try to keep the drip off the side of Ollie. I use half of a pipe cleaner in each slot, which makes them very cheap. And the travel well. With that being said, I don’t think the wicks that Dave mentioned would work because the wouldn’t be stiff enough to stick into the middle track and I don’t know if the ones Frank linked to would bend. My thinking may be all wet?, so let me know how they work.

I think if you look a little closer you will see that the Costco SC2000i is not a Yamaha generator. It is powered by a Yamaha motor but that does not make it a Yamaha generator. Honda and Yamaha generators will always be pretty close in price, with the Yamaha’s a little less. If something is half the price of “the gold standard”, there is usually a good reason. Seadog brought the Costco generator up in a post earlier this year.

The original picture has bicycles on the back while the second picture shows a motorcycle hanging off the back. I know John asked about carrying a small motorcycle on his OTT in the past. Now my question is “will it fit in the Hanger?”

I wanted to offer a few suggestions for removing the window seals and tracks. Please read the entire message first as my writing style is a little disjointed. And if you think it tough to read, you should be grateful you don’t have to think like this.? First off, only do this if you feel you can’t clean the tracks and drain slots with brushes, vacuums and compressed air. It takes me about 30 minutes to remove and replace the seals, minus the drying time for the seals. Removing the outside seal for the fixed glass track is pretty simple, I used a metal pick to raise the seal enough to grab it by hand and then pulled it out. The sliding glass track has a different seal that is actually 5 individual pieces. Without looking closely you would think that it is all one piece. The top and bottom horizontal pieces are straight and run the length of the track. The curved corners are two separate pieces with a short straight vertical piece between them. My trial and error procedure is to remove the window shade assembly first and then the screen. The screen has spring clips on the top. Slide the screen open enough to grab it on both sides and push up while pulling the bottom out. With the screen out, remove the sliding window rubber stop. I think a piece of masking tape on the window frame will prevent the sliding window from scratching the frame with window stop removed. Wish I had thought about that before scratching my frame. Working from the outside, remove the outside seal. Next remove the short vertical seal between the curved corner pieces in the sliding window track using something like the pick and a butter knife. The seal is U shaped and it is necessary to fold either of the side portions into the middle and then carefully remove the entire piece. Removing the short vertical piece first will allow you to slide the bottom corner piece upward into the space created by removing the short vertical seal. Do not remove the corner pieces as the are very fragile due the the cuts is the sides which allow the seal to fit the round corners. Now begin removing the long bottom seal by folding both sides in and lifting it out of the track an inch or so at a time. After you get about half of it out you can begin sliding it out from under the window. Now you can clean the seals, tracks and slots by which ever method you prefer. Allow the seals to dry if you cleaned them with soap and water. I treat mine with 303 protectant before reinstalling them. If you are any questions, please ask and I’ll provide any help I can. Mike

I put the original seals back in after cleaning them with soap and water. I did treat them with 303 Protectant after they were clean and dry. I did not treat the fuzzy side of the sliding window seal. Have you removed those seals?

Are you speaking about the seal for the sliding or the stationary window?

Or look online at the Oliver website. On the main page, select Travel Trailers on the blue bar. Then select Oliver University and find your model and year. ?

Missing pictures from original posting. I hope?

I’ll attach the pictures when the website allows.

Our Oliver LE2 is stored in along side our house and is subject to rain, oak leaves, pine needles, bugs and whatever else Mother Nature throws at it in Lutz, FL. It is a constant struggle to keep it clean and off-site storage is very expensive. And until the finance department approves a storage solution, I’ll just have to try to keep up with the maintenance. Florida is called the Sunshine State but we also receive a fair amount of rain. After a 5” rain one day this summer, we found the curbside bench cushions to be wet. I found some ideas about the cause of the leakage in the Oliver forums and determined that cause of the leak was dirt and crud blocking the weep slots. ScubaRx/Steve offered some detailed thoughts about cleaning the window tracks which included the weep slots. So I tackled that project which included removing the window seals covering the fixed glass track. Then removing the sliding window track seal and finally removing the screen and it’s seal. With those items removed I was able to clean the tracks pretty well. I have attached a poor picture of the 3 tracks of the window frame and the weep slots. And in an effort to be clear, the picture does not show the slots very well. The weep slots are between the outside of the window frame and the fixed glass track and between the fixed glass track and the sliding glass track. There aren’t any weep slots to the screen track. So if the weep slots become clogged, the water overflows into the sliding glass track and the overflow runs down the inside wall. This can happen to any of the windows except the door window. The Norton’s had told me about draining the the window tracks by placing a finger at the bottom of the weep slot and creating a capillary effect to drain the window tracks. The window weep slots must be fairly clean for this to work. It’s very effective if you are around your Oliver when it rains. And now my helpful tip. I cut pipe cleaners in half and place one in each weep slot. The slots between the outside and middle tracks line up, so push the pipe cleaners through the outside track and into the middle track. It requires about an 1-1/4” of the pipe cleaner to reach the middle track. I find that the tracks dry out much faster with the pipe cleaners than without. The pipe cleaners also travel pretty well as we didn’t lose any on our last camping trip which included some interstate driving. We hope this proves useful for someone.

Thank you both for doing the hard work of planning the micro rally. Krunch and I had a great time making some new friends and breaking bread bread with some old ones. The hurricane made for some second thoughts about attending but it turned to be a great week for camping. Thanks again, Mike and Krunch

Excellent solution and execution. It’s funny because I always thought we would order a standard bed when the time came. I didn’t think my better half would go for the twin bed version. Low and behold, we found a 6 month old 2017 standard bed and used the big bed for 1 trip. We did not like devoting 40% of the space to a bed and did not like converting it to booth table each morning. So we tried different sleeping arrangements and settled on the dinette for Krunch and the back bench for me and the dogs stay on either side bench. And then over Labor Day week the factory converted it to the twin bed configuration. We bought mattresses from Southern Mattress and they shipped then to Hohenwald. Next week is our first trip as a twin bed and I am hoping for the best.

I have included a couple of pictures from hull 193 so you would know what some have been talking about. I have never heard any fan running without turning the switch on.

I think the existing window stop would prevent anything you put in the track from reaching the curved corner.

I would suggest that the white band/seal be removed from the window and cleaned on your picnic table or outside work bench. Then use any product you choose without any damage to the gelcoat. I think a better idea would be to replace the white window seals with a black one like the back/exit window. I recently requested information about that seal from Jason. We will see if it is possible in the future.

Thank you for the before and after pics. And you are right about the black frame and dark window blending togethet. It looks great!

Thanks for the response and advice. I’ll follow up with the Toyota service department and see want they have to say.

John, I had a 50k service completed a few weeks ago on my LC and opt'd to replace the air and cabin filters myself. Today I completed those tasks but noticed what appears to be something missing. Can you or any Tundra owners tell me what should connect to the open port? Thanks is advance.

How does the black frame look on your Ollie? I am pretty sure that is the same glass and shade that Lippert Industries offered. When I talked to them a couple of months back they indicated that they were re-working the shade, so I have been holding off on replacing ours.

Congratulations on retirement. Will this be a warm up for Alaska? Are you’all going to Jasksonville In October?

Hull #193 has about 10,000 miles on and the only off road activity it has seen has been in state park campgrounds and it has similar rub marks from the spare tire. The real reason for this post was because John once mentioned scratching the rim with the hold down ring. Although I did not share those concerns due to the fact that it was on the inside of the rim, I did know from checking the tire pressure on the spare that there was a fair amount friction on the rim when tightening the hold down ring. Thus my search for something to act as a washer and some of you may recognize my orange washer is actually a circle cut out of a 5 gallon Home Depot bucket lid. I think I get another turn or two on the hold down ring with less friction. I hope someone finds it useful.