mossemi

Well, don’t leave either of those valves open by accident on your way north or you might become the star of Ice Road Truckers. Mike

I would suggest putting a temporary cigarette lighter plug on the transmitter power wires and use that for testing. Maybe try the camera in the back window or run the cable from the camera to the transmitter through the window. I am not familiar with the camera, but based on JD's install it seems to have an extension cable that can be used to mount the transmitter further away from the camera and closer to the display/receiver in the tow vehicle. I would also suggest putting the switch and transmitter in the area of the main lighting switch panel just inside the door if the transmitter did not work in the attic area. Oliver mounts their camera switch there and the wiring is already there. It's also easier to route the extension cable on the curb side, as you don’t have the pantry to deal with. Keep us posted.

This is the pipe cleaner that I use because my father-in-law smoked a pipe and Krunch found them in her mother's sewing machine cabinet, so they were cheap. As others have posted, there is a variety of products that will wick water from the window tracks through the weep slots and I am sure there are others items we haven’t thought of yet. But I will say that although the Ream-N-Klein pipe cleaners do rust after months of use, their ability to stay in place while on the road at highway speeds is amazing. We put new cleaners in place for our trip to the rally and when we got home after 2100 miles, they were all still in place. They have been so dependable that we don’t even think about them anymore. You can test the effectiveness of any wicking product whenever you wash your Ollie. Good luck and happy wicking,

But the instructions for moving the television to the center of the attic was still applicable to my trailer.

I moved my television to the center mount location in March for many of the same reasons mentioned in this post. I used Mike and Carol's suggestion of a door knob protector to cover the old wiring hole into the attic. I did not like the looks of the door knob protector because the mounting tape was too thick and it left a noticeable gap between the protector and the fiberglass. So I went back to Amazon and bought a 2" white plastic hole plug that worked perfectly. The only problem is it came in a bag of 25. So I have 24 left. If you want to do this mod or already have and need a hole cover, just let me know via PM and include your address. I drop one in mail for you. Now what's on tv? And that’s not a tow vehicle?

Your statement about an extra hot water drain line made me go look at the plumbing schematics and search for a hot water drain line. It doesn’t look like there is a drain on the hot water side at all, let alone an extra one. I understand the drain function of the hot water heater, but I thought that was a winterizing, filter cleaning or descaling function. Is this something the Truma rep at the Rally suggested? What is the purpose of the extra hot water line drain that you and Steve have and where is the valve and drain?

I was researching your aerator mod and found this on the Delta Faucets website. <b>Delta Faucet · 6 months ago Thank you for your question, Danny! </b> <b>The RP80524 Essa wand does not have a removable aerator and the wand itself is not meant to be disassembled. The face of the wand has soft, rubber Touch-Clean spray holes which allow you to easily wipe away calcium and lime build-up with the touch of a finger. If you suspect a mineral buildup inside, you can unscrew the wand from the hose and pour a 50/50 solution of white vinegar inside, otherwise a new wand would be needed.</b> <b>Best regards</b> This is the model faucet I have in #193. So it appears that this mod is not doable without changing the faucet as well. Dang it! And the list keeps on growing.

Choctaw Lake in Tombigbee National Forest of Mississippi

Excellent solution! As one who has struggled with 3 different bike racks on my Ollie, your version is unique and well executed. Thanks for sharing.

My cabinet lights are LED and have a white plastic cover surrounding a plastic lens. The white cover hides 3 mounting screws. I can not find any manufacturer info without taking the screws out and dropping the fixture. It looks to have about 8 LED chip lights looking through the lens. Usually this lights have 40,000 to 50,000 hour life expectancy and I doubt you are anywhere close to that. You could get more info by removing the lens and finding the manufacturer and looking up the light.

I sent you a PM a few days ago. Are you still having PM trouble?

I have not seen this problem. I assume you are referring to just the 12v DC lighting and excluding the running lights. If it happens under different power options, I would start troubleshooting on the ground or negative side. And since it affects all lighting, it should be a main ground connection. You can move on to the positive side of the circuit after verifying the negative side is good.

I couldn’t decide where to mount my fan, so I put it on a piece of oak I had and we move it around a needed.

Yellow is Oliver’s ground wire throughout the trailer for the 12v circuit. The hot wires change colors by circuit. The confusion happens when Oliver wiring meets an appliance manufacturers wiring. All of the lights in my Oliver that I have messed with have black and white wires. I don’t remember for sure, but I bet black fixture wire is the hot input and the white is ground. I think there should be some slack in wiring near the fan that you could pull out until you reached the butt connection. I am confused by your description of the pantry portal being by the door. The pantry I am referring to is the tall cabinet on the street side between the bed or couch and the dinette. On the bed side of the pantry is a cabinet and it has a portal to get to the wiring for the radio and solar charge controller. Other circuits run through there as well and there may be a connection for the Max Fan. Oliver uses flat 3 and 4 way connectors and if the is one there, it would have 3 black wires. One would be the supply/hot wire from the breaker panel in the attic. The other 2 would go to the fans. So by my way of thinking the supply/hot wire is getting to that connector because the bath fan works. If the problem is in the supply/hot wiring, it should be that connector or the butt splice near the fan itself. All of that should hold true for the ground side as well. My LEII hull# is 193 and it is a 2017. What is your hull number? Oliver does not make process changes willy nilly, so the hull numbers can help us help you by finding hull numbers close to yours and things are similar. Keep us updated and I’ll respond as my connectivity allows.

Check the back side of the breaker panel above the tv which is also called attic. My drawing show the hot side is a black wire and the ground is yellow. The drawing shows both fans on that circuit as you mentioned and the split or tap near the pantry but it could be in the attic. I assume you used the ground in the fan housing when testing for 12v. You might try a different ground source to determine which wire is failing. Check the cabinet access port by the radio and solar charge controller which is where the power and ground tap may be if it’s not in the attic. Good hunting, Mike

A couple of nights at Pendleton Bend, a COE on the Arkansas River. There is talk of flooding next week do to the storms in OKLAHOMA.

Try this for the lights: https://www.sailorsams.com/ITC-RV-LED-Porch-Light_p_14885.html and this for the switches: [attachment file=Round Rocker Switch .png] Good luck,

File didn’t upload. [attachment file=Grenada Lake North Abutment COE 05202019.jpg]

Just wanted to show both amber and white lights for comparison. [attachment file=Grenada Lake North Abutment COE 05202019.jpg]

We travel with 2 dogs, so we are in and out several times a night after dark. Being from Florida we are familiar with most types of flying bugs. So the general routine is to kill about 50 bugs inside the trailer before going to bed. The good news was that they are easy to see on the white walls. My initial intent was to install a dimmer on the porch lights and that did not work with the dimmer I purchased. I know there are dimmers that control a single light and others that control multiple lights. The one I bought would not control both entry porch lights, but would control a single one. It is fairly easy to dim an entire 12v circuit if you wanted to, but a little harder to do a specific set of lights. So I decided to take a different approach and install amber lights. The are made by the same company that brought us the black streaks most are familiar with, ITC. These lights do not have a black gasket. They are direct contact with a sealant of your choice and 2 screws. They have a little larger footprint so they need new mounting holes. They also have both white and amber lights so another power wire is necessary as well as a new 3 way switch. I only did the curbside lights due to the cost being about $120 for lights and a switch and my uncertainty in their function. My test at home were positive but last light camping by the water in 85 degrees sealed the deal. The bathroom window was covered with bugs outside and the porch lights had a couple. More importantly, I only had to get ride of 2 bugs before bed. I'll order 2 more lights and complete the street side lights and I’ll reuse some of the old lights in the basement which will make me feel better about replacing things before they break. And if I can get off my lazy butt, I’ll document my MOP and post it.

Raspy, Your right about it being a little sad seeing all the OTT people leaving the rally. We pulled out about 9:15 and most of the little white trailers were already on the road. It was a very nice rally put together by the rally organizers. They are due a pat on the back for their efforts. I know that I was busy from Wednesday through Sunday and Krunch and I had a very nice time. Maybe we'll see you out west if a western rally comes to fruition. Leaving the rally, we headed west to a COE campground at Grenada Lake North Abutment. The water is high and some sewer connections are locked but a standard COE campground, clean and tidy. There are a lot of trailers parked with no one home, I guess holding down spots for the coming weekend. Hope to see everyone again soon.

I started lubing my suspension late Saturday afternoon and found 2 zerk fittings that would not take grease. So I took them out and they still wouldn’t take any grease . I went to NAPA after church yesterday and handed the fittings to the NAPA man and asked for 10. He pulled 2 packages of 5 each and I was on my way. We celebrated Mother’s Day with my mother-in-law and I crawled back under the trailer late yesterday and found the fittings would not screw in. Crawled back out into better light a found the were press-in fittings. Back to NAPA today and traded 10 press-in for 10 screw-in fittings. While waiting for the rain to clear, I read some more of this post and saw JD's posting about finding 2 holes in his hull also. I finally got back under the trailer and install the 2 zerk fittings and finished the grease job. Then I started inspecting hull #193 and found 2 spots behind my front axle. They are nearly perfect circles about 65% of the way around. When I rubbed the, my first thought was it was a sticker about the size of a nickel. I started rubbing them with some solvent and a rag and found out the are not stickers but holes in the gel coat. Funny thing is that one turned green and the other pink after the solvent. Now I see Yukon's last post and will wait and see what the process for repair will be.

JD - check your PM.

Congratulations on your new to you Oliver. If you have not seen it already, the is a Oliver University tab that has most all of the manuals for your trailer. Click the label "Travel Trailers" on the main page of the Oliver website. That will open a list of topics and the “Oliver University” label is at the bottom. There you can find the manuals. Good Luck at keep asking for help, there is usually someone available to help. Mike

It may be an option, but we have an AC 120v outlet, 12v cigarette lighter receptacle and 2 USB ports on each side of the night stand. Mike