Geronimo John

Yep. Sold mine for $550.

Most likely. If you want to get an idea about what is required for the Houghton's, it very likely would be similar for the Atmos units as well. The Mod to turn supply air fan on/off with the compressor is just a ACR style relay. I had proposed this long ago and one of the SOB owners ran with it. GSM Bear was very helpful in the process. The Mod to remote the thermistor that controls when the compressor comes on / off is just an extension of the cable of the existing thermistor or just buying one with a longer tail. Normally an easy mod if your trailer has an easy path to where you want to be sensing cabin temp. In the case of OTT's, it was a tough nut to crack. There is EXTENSIVE "Deep Rabbit Hole" posts on those two topics. Some of my thoughts and a lot of others are attached below. Warning: it gets deep into it in the attachments. But in actuality it is not impossible for a talented and courageous electrical tech to accomplish these mods. But as you said, "Such mod would void the warranty so one is for sure at risk. Last thought is that if a person were so inclined to do the mods, I would run the unit for a full season just to make sure it is good to go, then decide to proceed "at risk". GJ Houghton Single Line Relay Wiring Diagram from GSMBear.docxGSM BEAR V2 RecPro Houghton Interior Fan Mod v2.pdfHoughto 3400 Humidity Relay Mod (13 JULY 2024).docx

Spot on! Those of us who have completed Mod 1 and Mod 2 for the Houghton's really like them. But having to do the mods to get there is not realistic for most of the audience with Mrs. Lincoln. Same darn mistake Houghton made. Where was the ATMOS designed an where manufactured? The Dometic Penguin II also had bi-lateral drainage. But it was an internal drain down a tube to near the port side tire. The Houghton and if I am reading your note correctly both flow the condensate over the roof. Please confirm. IF so, then both of these units are not quite as good in the condensate drain design as the Ole Dometic. All over-the-side drainage designs have to be bi-lateral. Reason is that with Heat Pump's you may well be operating the system in freezing temp's. If they were not bi-lateral designs for flow, you would have a condensate pond inside the roof top unit on the low side. Such ponds in freezing weather can cause serious problems. I wonder how long it will be before we have Houghton type Mod 1 and Mod 2 for the Atmos units?

Nice work JD! Perfect loss of 4 holes and creative cable stabilization assembly (AKA Bolt). A+

Good, but long, video. Thanks for sharing. It appears that the Atmos 4.4 design is very well done. Has many of the same concepts used by the Houghton. Two design details for further update by Atmos owners: In the video they did not make it clear that when the heat pump is in cooling mode, that the fan does not have to run when the compressor is off. This is a deal killer if the Supply Air Fan and the Compressor DON"T cycle OFF together. Unless you are one of the 10%ers as discussed already. The other detail that potential purchasers should be aware of is the unit's height. Here is a comparison: Dometic Penguin II 9 1/2" Houghton 9" Amos 11.14" For most not a problem. For some that 2.5" could be if you have a 10' entrance height. Just measure and be sure especially if your entrance to the storage factify has an UP ramp as you back in. Looking forward to learning about the cycling of fan and compressor topic. GJ

Not me. Past was 3 - 4+ month full time and rest in HI. This year two trips scheduled for a bit longer. GJ

ASSUMPTION: From the internet,: Swamp coolers are primarily used in the dry, hot climates of the Southwest United States, such as Arizona, New Mexico, and parts of Utah and California, and are less common in areas with higher humidity." Keeping in mind that not all occupants in these states use them, as is evident the number of AC in those states. For this post, I'm saying I think that in the USA, for mechanical cooling in the USA, let's estimate that 5% of USA cooling units are Swamp Coolers. And the other 95% use regular refrigerant A/C's and/or Heat Pumps for mechanical cooling (AC). Now to your above thoughts: The AC evaporator coil has the capacity to store well over a quart of water on its very large amount of heat transfer surface. You turn on the AC and it is dry. As humid air passes over the coil, it condenses water from the air and it stays on the coil. Eventually the coil is saturated, and it begins to drain water out of the AC unit. As it continues to run the process continues and water flows out of the unit. This is true for all AC units. For the Houghton Set1, and most USA air conditioning units, the fan and compressor units cycle together. This keeps the condensate on the coil between runs. The humidity in the cabin is lowest just as the unit shut off the compressor. The humidity will then rise naturally due to occupants and their activities. But this typically is a slow process and before it gets out of comfort range, the control system cycles the compressor back on. Comfort is assured for 95% of USA applications. But for Houghton's Set 2 units and similar designed units, when unit Thermistor/T-stat reaches set point, they shut off the compressor but not the fan. The condensate then gets evaporated into the cabin. For 95% of US applications this is not good. This can be demonstrated with any heat pump. Just turn the heat pump on in "Cool" mode, and run the unit until you see condensate exiting the unit. Then switch the Heat Pump to heat and FEEL the humidity as the heat pump inside coil heats and evaporates that entrained condensate. You will be amazed. And can then fully understand one of the problems with Houghton Set 2. Your scenario in AZ is very much like what the AU Houghton typical customer wants. You are spot on. BUT most OTT owners are FAR more concerned with too much humidity and heat. As such, you likely would LOVE the Houghton Set 2 units....Until you took a vacation to most other USA locations. So, as you mentioned 🙂 This is why I have made the case for Houghton to provide a selector switch serving the supply air fan and compressors so as to allow the occupant to switch them accordingly to their needs. This would greatly benefit the vast majority of USA users and the bottom line for RECPRO and HOUGHTON. Combine this with a remote thermistor/T-stat and it would fix the cycling issue as well. Doing so would make it easy for all of the USA Market to use their product out of the box. And if they really really wanted the Air Stream and OTT customers to smile big, redesign the lower pan of the unit to allow for gravity drain of the condensate without needing an electric condensate pump like they have now added to the 15K BTU unit. Again they took the wrong design path....... Until such design improvements are made, their amazingly wonderful unit would not seem to be suitable to those chose not to execute Mod 1 and 2. But for those that can, it is a GREAT unit. GJ Sorry for the above response from deep inside the rabbit hole.

Yes and YES. The key to your, mine, and a boat load of owners is the ABILITY to choose Off or On of the fan. The Houghton Set 2 units do not so provide. Hence serious humidity issues caused by this AND the fact that on the Set 2 they mount the thermistor (that controls the compressor on/off) is mounted inside the unit and does not very well reflect the cabin temperature in the middle of the cabin. Such a huge mistake for likely 90% of the US market. But it is just fine for 90% of the AU market there it is hot and dry.... They chose, and continue it appears to not give a hoot about the USA 90%. At least not yet I hope. Why? Their unit is a really great unit otherwise. GJ

You should consider shopping at a Super Walmart. Three gallons is what I use every year = $12 plus tax.

The houghton IS a great unit. But if they have not gone back to their SET 1 configuration with a remote thermostat and where the fan shuts down when the compressor shuts off then that is a significant concern for most owners. WHY? Most owners will not want to risk making the two mods to fix these SET 2 issues. Once the mods are made, then I still feel that the HOUGHTON 13.5 k unit is GREAT. It however does not have a condensate drain system as of last week when I I checked. But the larger 15K does. That said, I think the 15K unit is oversized for even hot weather use and would not recommend it as such. Also check the height difference. The 13,5 is a reduction over the Dometic OEM on most OE2's.

About 99.9% of the time yes. However one owner's was not. I believe one of his axles had been replaced before his ownership. So if you are the only owner, then you would most likely be about 99.9% yes.

All great info. Thank you. A few reminders for what ever system you choose: Be sure to locate it where you can reasonably easily get to the filters for change out and winterization. For sanitization of the water system you do not want to send the sanitization fluid (Likely Bleach and Water) through your water purification system. Having a bypass valve and easy service are good ideas the freeze protection perspective. GJ

Oh my. I was afraid that was the case. Thank you for the mug shots! Wow it looks like the underworld Bad Rabbits are replicating like rabbits. Fortunately we have Crazy Horse to handle those underworld guys. Even if his disguise has been revealed by a video of Galileo's Society Entrance Ceremony video, I think we are all OK. GJ

After a thorough review of your qualifying posts, the Rabbit Hole Society hereby bequiths to you a full lifetime membership.

Schools are starting to change when they open again for the Fall semester in Alaska. Idea is to give the kiddo's more summer time for play and jobs. Suggest you check that out. Seems like they were trending to start up the first Tuesday of September. September is the shoulder season. Almost no bugs, discounts and lots of camping parks only part full. Some years you could get all of September before it gets really cold. Other seasons early Sept the snows are starting. We were there in 2022 for August and half of September. Loved it. Some say that going in the late spring when kids are in school is wonderful for retired travelers. Too cold for our thing skins. Just know that the cost of Fuel is off the charts. So take what you need and be mindful that due to fuel costs and many road conditions you will be traveling many less miles than you do on our Interstates. GJ

All of the listed suggestions apply to paved and well maintained gravel roads. Granted not always heavily traveled, but easy to do with a 2wd TV and good tires. But put on the yoga pads plus a serious set of mud flaps...... GJ

Yep, but you are faster on the key board than I. 🙂

Steve: I was good all the way to the words "is actually a good idea as it protects the circuit from both ends". That logic applies to circuits that have the ability to power up the home-run from both ends. Like the DC to DC charging system. However I do agree that having a fuse at the front jack, although somewhat redundant, does serve a great purpose. When I leave my trailer unintended in a boondock location for which there may be a theft concern, I lower the tongue and remove the fuse. Certainly makes a quick scope, connect and getaway much more effort for the thief. GJ

TravelWell: This appears to be your first post, so welcome to our forum. For a 6,000 (loaded) trailer, the OEM use of an E-rated (80 PSI) tire is unusual. Oliver could easily have gone with less stout and lighter C or D rated. But true to the exceptional quality of OTT's, they went with the stronger and much thicker tires that are rated to carry WAY more load. The E-rated tires are much more resistant to road damage as our owners typically include boondocking and roads such as yours in our travels. There are penalties with going with an higher rated tires and they are weight, cost and ride as JD discusses above. That said, I have yet to hear of any OTT owner complain about having too good of a tire tire on their rig. On the other hand, going to an even heavier duty tire such as you proposed would gain little in endurance or failure resistance. But the weight and cost increase would be significant. The third consideration is the forces that high pressure tires transmit up into the trailer. Although our 80 PSI rated tires can handle this pressure, most of our owners are running their trailer tires at the 50 PSI or less on highway and 30 PSI or less off road. Doing so keeps stuff in the cabinets and cushions off the floor. Finally, I know of no OTT owners that use 110 psi rated tires on OTT's for all of the above reasons. GJ

Steve: In a former home in Houston, I had only a 100 amp service. My home electrical panel only had 12 beakers, but was not terribly old, just too small. Same situation as yours in the garage. We needed more breakers and a larger service to the house. I removed the small panel and installed a MUCH larger 42 breaker space panel, kept the main as 100 amps. Moved the old panel to the garage and ran wires to it for a 100 amps garage sub service. Called the power company and complained that every time I struck an arc on my Lincoln welder the lights dimmed in the house, our clocks needed to be reset, and the A/C system would shut off. They sent out a service tech and he determined we needed a 200 amp service. They wanting to sell more power cheerfully installed new overhead at no cost. I then proceeded with construction of a 900 SF addition and a bunch of new wiring throughout the house. GJ

Since your profile and signature does not say what your truck is,,,, and I did not read every post.... If you have a F-150, the forum repeatedly says that the Bilstein's on the rear are a great improvement, and air bags also. But it not worth the cost to install 5100's on the front of a F-150, unless you really want a ride height adjustment. GJ

Yep.

And likely even less if you are a mountain kind of camper. But you will LOVE it on the highway. GJ

More that a few of our owners with F-150's use the Firestone Air Bags and Bilstein 5100's on the rear shocks. I have 18,000 miles on mine and wish I had upgraded earlier. GJ

Alaska Suggestions: The Stone Stompers help for sure. After our 30 days in Alaska, I wish I had also installed the "Yoga Mats" as one very wise owner posted several years ago. Looked dorky, but if I had it to do again.... I would be Mr. Dorky for Alaska. Beware of puddles in the road. I saw where one had broke the back of a well made camper. Have a good spare, air compressor and a plug kit too. Have industrial strength bear spray for each adult. Get Tek Campground reservation/pass six months ahead. Don't sweat boondocking as the opportunities abound. Get the Mile Post Long sleeve, long pants and boots.... YEP! New springs, shocks and serviced bearings. GJ