Geronimo John

I would consider laying a silicone bead in the ring. That would likely keep it in place when servicing the tanks. GJ

Love your new OE2! Congratulations. Noted what appears to be a much more substantial door than on my 2018 model. More than a few of our vintage doors seem to develop a sage. Wonder if the older hulls can easily be modified to accept the new door? GJ

Full credit to the Eaton Corporation for the below graphic. My post addresses a bit of the technical side as to why some owners like double protection and use an additional surge protector at the utility source. As indicated in the Eaton Corporation graphic, there are six components in better surge protectors designed for RV use. Most of them act as filters to block noise and surges. One, the Metal Oxide Varistors (Blue disks below) work differently. They actually absorb voltage spikes. And they do it very well. However, over time they take a lot of "hits" and in the process of absorbing the excess energy they degrade. As they degrade their effectiveness declines. These components generally are not serviceable. So if a spike gets absorbed by a surge protector at the pole, it extends the life of the much more expensive surge protector in our trailers. Additionally, the Metal Oxide Varistors in any surge protector can only absorb a limited amount. Lets say that your camp ground has a tremendous spike heading your way. The Chokes and Inductors of your power pole will "knock down" the spike as much as they can. What gets by then hits the surge protector in the trailer. This one knocks the spike down further. It also gives us an error code that we can see inside the trailer allowing us to take action (hopefully) before the next spike hits us. As is evident, it is for sure belts AND suspenders, and for many locations is highly recommended. Hope this helps, GJ

Nice installs. Owners: Do you have any experience with damage potential to the hull for a removal of a wide bands of VHB tape secured equipment? GJ

Looks like my response got to you slower than yours back! Working off your response and ignoring mine. I would prefer taped down, but.... first: They have two mounting options. Tape and bolted. When they respond to my first questions, I'll ask them if they are using 3M tape, and if so which version. After all, all things wear out and a replacement method is essential. One of my first set of questions asked was if removing the taped down ones will damage the gel coat. My concern with VHB is it is a bear to remove. Likely not only damaging the gel coat, but likely the fiberglass below. That is my motive for knowing ahead of time how to replace them on OUR trailers. OMG, you caught the fever. EXACTLY my motivation in this thread. 🙂 Not a difficult to do effort for our TV antenna, but your is a bunch larger. One of the advantages of these panels is that they can be penetrated and you only lose a bit of capacity. For my "Flying Saucer" TV antenna, I would look into cutting a hole for it to stay where it is. Just lay the panel around/under? it. In summary, likely we are looking at two of their 200 watt panels run front to back (Fore to Aft for the boaters). Virtually no visual impact and no aerodynamic impact as well. My two reasons, previously stated for not getting the OTT style Solar System. OTT: I hope you are keeping this thread in mind for a significant upgrade for 2025! Regardless we have a good start on this concept. Will give the supplier some time to digest my questions. thank you again! GJ

Chris or John: That would be very much appreciated. Apparently they are very flexible. However at this point I do not know if they are flexible on L and W, or just in the L direction. So until the supplier answers my questions sent, I can only ponder installing them in the S to P direction and not the F to A manner as that would require the second direction of flex. But if they turn out to be flexible in the both directions, then getting two of them up there running F to A could be a great solution. So, in addition to knowing if the 80" length will fit between the existing Max fan to the bath fan and vent, also knowing the Up/Down measurement would be helpful. Sure wish I could beam over and tag the measurement between the two awnings below while following the roof terrain..... I could accept having the panels run from the back side of the OEM awning over over to the street side so long as they stopped before reaching where a second awning is normally mounted. Further than that becomes a visual concern, at least for me. Thanks for your help! GJ

Very nice write-up! I really like your recommendation for the Remco USA made pump. Thanks for sharing that. For winterization, OTT recommends getting 2 gallons of RV antifreeze. I always get three and have some left over. With the additional fixtures involved, I suggest owners using your approach to get that extra gallon. for some locations may not necessary, but if your Ollie is subject to HARD freezes, it is far better to not skimp on a $4 gallon of antifreeze.

Chris and John: Thank you! Roger I snipped the wrong picture from OTT. Have deleted it above. I went deep into my pictures and snipped this one of our roof line. We just have up front the Omni Antenna, vent stack and bath fan. The Yuma Copper Iridium Gallium Selenide (CIGS) panels are rated at 200 watts and are roughly 26" X 80" in size. Ollie is 7' wide with two puff up/downs along the width of the roof. As such, dimensionally they will easily fit on our roof running starboard and port (S/P) direction with room to spare. With your measurements in mind: Without moving the antenna we can easily get two each 200 watt panels laid S/P. If I relocate antenna, it appears that we may be able to get three of the 26" wide panels laid aft of the bathroom fan and vent stacks. Granted laying the panels over the vertical roof section and their run up/down curved sections will reduce the outputs of the panels likely in the 8% range. "ASS of U & ME" such would de-rate the panels to 184 watts (maximum calculated) output. One of the significant benefits of these panels in partial shade is that they only de-rate by the shade over the sections shaded. Unlike many other systems, partial shade impacts the entire panel. For planning purposes, I'm going to assume only 175 watts max output. So, conservatively we are looking at getting maybe easily 350 watts or maybe 525 watts of power if we relocate roof penetrations. Point is go get what we can with virtually zero aerodynamic drag, and far less visual pollution to boot. I have sent the MFG Rep a series of questions about their panels, and will update this thread with their responses. GJ

If you have to ask then this exalted position is well above your station in this life - sorry. Well said. However through exhaustive study and practice, I have learned that some are engineers who definitely were born with a warped sense of humor.

If it is calibrated, then generally that means it can be recalibrated. May be worth a call to the Varioheat MFG. GJ

I like either the suggested plusnut or Rivet Nuts for Plastic and Composites solutions better than a rivet nut for your project. I have used rivet nuts in fiberglass, but always put a washer on the back side before crushing. The washer spreads the load and greatly reduces the potential for pullout indued cracking from the back side. The use of a washer with either of these two other methods would also be suggested if any significant loads are anticipated as required by a specific application. For this project of course not needed. GJ

Wow Steve that's some great investigative work. So much that as the Chairman of the Oliver Rabbit Hole Society, I hereby bequeath upon you a lifetime membership at the Professional Level. At this level you have the rights to the title of "Chief Rabbit Hole Excavator". Congratulation!

Here are a few ideas that may be useful: If you are hooked up to the 30 amp plug, try the 20 amp plug for grins. Camp site power poles are generally grouped down a line and each set often use different transformers. Hence, try moving to a different camp site power pole that is well away from the one you are using. If you are using a generator, have you connected up your bonded ground plug? If you are at home, have you had any mother boards fried recently? GJ If you have concerns, don't plug in there.

Would Rivet Nuts worked as well? GJ

Tilt. Below is the Renogy installation instructions.. Kindly scroll down to item 6, and the warning below it. What I think they are saying is do not mount the unit up and down with the fans below the unit. Doing so will burn up the unit cause you cut off the air flow. That said, I mounted mine on the inside wall of the street side bed, using all the space of my former Xantrex... that died.... and then some forward. You'll need to add some shims to mount additional phenolic cutting board mounting. I highly, as n VERY STRONGLY, recommend using SS thru bolts (six I believe) from the unit thru the cutting board, thru shim stock and thru the fiberglass wall below the bed. Additionally add material below the Renogy to help support it's very heavy heft while installing. And nimble fingers to get the nylocks on the bolts between the cutting board and the Renogy mounts. Finally, the heads of the bolts are on the hallway side and have SS fender washers to spread the load. This mounting approach survived 45 days in Alaska, but the kitchen drawers did not..... GJ

Yep, wider deeper threads! But they don't work in Alaska unless you also install the JD Drawer Straps. I tried the deeper fatter and ended up going with Micro Bolts and Nylocks AND the JD Drawer Straps too. Belts and Suspenders. As you have heard me say more than once: "I like having options". GJ

8 amps 60 hertz 125 volts and CODE 7. Below may be useful GJ OM - Progressive Industries HW30-50C (4 MAR 2023).pdf

I carry one of my throwable boat cushions with me at all times. Generally is sits between our Honda 2200 and the curb side rear of the F-150 bed. Great to kneel on when doing low work, or place on a 5 gallon bucket when doing mid height work. Much better than a towel. An because it serves as a pad between the generator and the aluminum truck bed, it is almost always where I am.

For a critical element of your camping support gear, having a refrigerator that can run from 12 or 120 volts gives you twice the onions when electrical weirdness happens. I like having a back-up plan so, any refrigerator I get to replace our Dometic "Fire Starter" boiling ammonia HazMat unit will need to have two power options. I like options. GJ

A good example of the DYI Pros that trailer batteries are considered as a matched set. One fails, best to either run one less battery, or replace them all. Lesson reminded. GJ

I am putting together some questions for these Yuma CIGS panels. But have a question for our owners: Not having access to my Ollie, what is the length and width of the above OTT Solar Package panels? Thanks GJ

First, I would buy spare fuses for all the sizes and types your trailer has. The trouble shooting process that likely will follow WILL likely result in your needing them. 😞 GJ

No. Emergency situations while in the bush are addressed under Forum Rule 12.34B and you are allowed to communicated in any way such events. Also, they are not considered as hijackering. Something that this owner never does and can't even spell the work correctly. GJ

I agree with both of you, in a way. As per CRM, yea for sure. Heavy too!. As per Steve, yea great idea especially if your TV is a 3/4 ton or higher because such a design to be wind resistant/proof it would sure add PSI to your Ollie Tires. ++++++++++++++++++++++++ But, our OTT's are designed to be aerodynamically minimalists. Hence why I don't like and will not install ridged flat solar panels poking up into the airstream and obvious visual distractions from the elegance of Mr. Scott's design. Especially so to our audience with a minimalist's perspectives of architectural beauty. On the other hand, when we have proven, flat laid, Lightweight, efficient, flexible solar panels, that can last a long time directly adhered to the roof surface; that becomes a game changer for some of us. GJ Note: Can you believe that this pea brained Mechanical Engineer can use so many big architectural concepts and words in a row? OMG I may be turning into an Architect in my ole age. OK REDEMPTION is now necessary::::: It will be interesting to see how the CIGS panels actually pan out in direct sun, as well as the possible impact on the heat transferal through the skin of an OTT roof system. GJ Note: Whoo, that was close. Looks like I'm back to being a M.E. again. That rabbit hole could have been my demise. 😞

May be a good idea as we have basically hijacked the solar awning one. The Lightweight Solar Farm concept is valid now that the panels can be stored in a compact way, and cost wise appear less than ridged, not to mention being more eco friendly from a materials perspective. However, with the type of chemistry the CIGS are using, they operate so well in shade, and can be mounted on our entire available roof with NO AERO DRAG (My objection to the OTT and RV industry design so far anyway), the solar farm looses out to the LSF concept in a lot of ways. That's why I suggested adding this to the flexible solar panel thread. Either that or we patent the idea! Sorry Awning Solar Guys for this invasion...... 🙂 JPR