Geronimo John

Jd, you would be suprised of the number of people that actually READ this important topic and don't respond publically.... but do via PM. You can sleep well knowing that there are more reasoned owners that are not going with the ALCON's 5 spring 2700 product. That said, if you go back an look at the majority of my reponses, they are typicaclly in direct response to your "exeburant yet opionated" posts. We all have agreed that some owners may need to overspring their rigs. I have pretty much spoken the logic line for the fleet, not the few who should go with such a stiff spring. Why don't we just stand down and sit back and wait to see what OTT does on future models? Or do you just like sparring?

At 24,000 miles on our OE2 I chose to replace the Monroe shocks when doing springs.. All four were still functioning with no leaks or adverse signs of wear. I would consider that 5 seasons or 24K miles would be a reasonable "end of life" goal. GJ: Crazy Horse adds: "Yea on the goal, but maybe early just for highway use. But for sure not for the boondocker five-leafer herd". CH

Yes the Alcan springs many have purchased are a better made spring..... but it is not the right choice for a growing number of owners that are fully considering all sides of this "agree to disagree" topic. In the opinion of several non-involved spring vendors, for our OE2 trailers, replacing a 1750 pound spring with a more expensive 2700 pound one is an expensive effort to achieve an oversprung load. Not saying that doing so is bad for some frequent extreme off-roading boondocking users, just that for the fleet in general, it is NOT believed to be THE recommended solution. So instead of repeating the same confirmation bias we have heard on both sides of this issue, let's just sit back and see what OTT is going to use on their future year models. My guess is that it will NEVER be a 2700 pound rated 5 leaf spring for the fleet in general use by OE2's. Why? Here I go again... It would be oversprung for general fleet use. PS: My Dexter PB-4 2400 pound four leaf springs fit perfectly and are doing just fine. GJ

how do you get a smooth bore hose from a collapsing hose?

Before doing too much, suggest verifying all the water valves in the curb side rear bunk area are fully turned in the proper direction. If one is partially shut WEIRD things happen. GJ

Ok, it was sure more than a Day or Two, For those interested in the Houghton 3400 Thermistor Relocation project, the attachments are for you. I have attached GSMBear's write-up as a base reference on the concept. Study it well. My DIY Supplement addresses OTT specific info that will for sure make your life easier should you elect to do the Thermistor Relo mod. Enjoy, GJGSM BEAR V2 RecPro Houghton Interior Fan Mod v2.pdfDIY Supplement to GSM Bear's Thermistor Mod (30 JULY 2024).docx

New Ez-Flex too? GJ

Why pay for a 5 leaf that then gets turned into a four leaf? Save the bucks and buy a four leaf that is rated more appropriately.

But to the other 1,000+ owners, it may make a difference to a few of them...... 🙂

Maybe. What about the taller ALCAN spring height added? Getting closer to that 10 foot number? GJ

I would still prefer the 2400 rated dexter four leaf if it has more steel. One would need to compare the weights though. GJ

Agree. I wonder how much this tall unit and base adds to the standard height of the trailer. For some this could be an issue as well.

I would check the amp draw from the batteries when toggling the heaters on/off.. Use clamp on amp meter, 712 Smart or what ever gizzmo we have on the newer Ollies.

The L&L head opens the jaws to allow for much easier placement and removal. It also grabbs on better allowing you to "FORCE" grease into the wet bolt. It certainly makes greasing much more efficient with a lot less waste. I know it is expensive, and I "resisted" for years. But after using one of my friends.... I was sold. No regrets. GJ

One of the best investments I have made is the Lock-N-Lube grease gun head. It works wonderfully and eliminated the forces that break zerks. Highly Recommend! GJ

Agree! Be sure to re-torque after road miles as suggested by MaxBurner and others. It is normal for the U-bolts to strech. Mine got an additional 1/2 turn on the first re-torque and a 1/4 turn on the second. Will check one more time in 500 miles and suspect it will be nill. GJ

I suspect that they could. But as you noted, I too am wondering. Their, and about all 5 leaf springs are made for stiffness by the extra leaf. The weight of the steel is a good indicator of the weight bearing capacity. The initial ALCANers were asking for a 2,000 pounder and were mis-informed as to the true capacity and stiffness of their product. When I saw the ratings jump of almost a thousand pounds per leaf (1750 to 2700) my red flags went up. That's how I got to the Dexter capacity upgrade of the PB4 from the PB4B. One thing to keep in mind is that ALCAN's speciality is off road applications. Their focus is not on an easy ride for the load, but surviving punishing situtations encounted by the Baja and Mountain Racers and those inspiring to be. Hence their recommendation. Per several experts that I trust, this is way over-sprung for general use for the majority of the OE2 Fleet. But on the other side of the coin, it may be a good choice for those super heavy or more serious off road users, Expecially if they have experienced whitness marks from banging of the axle U-bolts against the subframe. Those owners need a 5 leaf. Point is this is not a good/bad discussion. It is all about each owner's trailer weight and use. GJ

I agree and have previously posted that DIY spring changes on the road is NOT something to even consider doing. However, as also previously posted, I woud NEVER suggest replacing the 1750 springs in kind. Not enough steel. For some the ALCON 2700 springs are an option. But also for others who want a more compliant but stronger spring, the logical alternatve is the Dexter 2400 pound PB4 springs. Always be aware that spring sizing can be too little or be "over sprung". Changing from 1750 to 2700 springs is a huge difference. Some at OTT have confidentially stated that they are a bit too "over sprung". But if your trailer is really heavy or your are a near full time boondocker then they likely would fill the bill well. GJ

Zooming in on this thought. The jacks are a standard jack which is modified by Barker for OTT. Their standard jack has a round mounting plate with three bolts. OTT production makes and sends Barker a two bolt tab that Barker welds to the shank of their standard jack. Production ordered out 48 of them in May and according to Service they are out of stock. I find this to be a bit off. More likely the Production Team is holding on to their remaining supply of "Post Assemblies" for..... wait for it... production. In the last week, at least four ownes have needed these assemblies and per Service have called Barker. But Barker does not have any of the mounting tabs so those owners are basically screwed. As of yesterday, Barker has no pending orders from OTT, and none will be made until OTT makes the brackes. OTT Service needs a reserve stock in addition to Production stock. Until this is done, if you drive away with a down jack, you likely will be "Screwed". The three jacks are rated for 9,000 pounds total. The safety factor for a screw jack is generally considered to be 3, but this may need to be adjusted for specific applications. For example, if a screw jack failure could injure people, some recommend multiplying the critical load by an additional factor of 0.6, resulting in a final safety factor of 5, Since the failure of these jacks could kill, the 5X safety factor is in play. Bottom line these jacks are the right jacks for our trailers. JD: Can you please post a link to your excellent DIY guide for jack maintenance? AMEN! Note that the jacks have a clutch that protects them from over extension/retraction. If you damage the jack by driving off with it down, the bent section will prevent the jack from moving when you try to retract it. That's when most blow the 30 amp fuse.

JD: One of the reasons that JD suggested the exterior routing acrosss the axle is that the wires were being damaged at the entry and exit points. I totally agree that the wires should be 14 ga as you suggested.

Dexter P/n PR4, 2400 pound rated. Also order brass/bronze bushings and new U=bolts. Their PR4A is the OTT OEM 1750 pound ratged. For those late to this topic, please do NOT replace your springs with the OTT OEM 1750 rated ones. GJ

Last week I changed out my Dexter OEM 1750 pound springs and installed new Dexter four leaf 2400 pounders. The process was not all that complex, but it is tedious and liketly will take the average owner more than a day, unless you have access to heavy duty tools and floor jacks. This process is not one that I would never try to even contemplate doing on the side of the road or even at a rest stop. I put a thousand miles on the trailer with the new springs and the wheels did not fall off. I strongly encourage all OTT owners of any trailer over a handfull of years use to inspect their trailer springs. They should be the shape of an ole style long bow, with ends that curve; not straight. If yours do not bunb all the way to the end, they are in the process of failing. If so, see the above paragraph and read it again. Repeat as many timess as necessary. 🙂 GJ

Another caution: Different hulls have different dimensions, trays, and batteries, Hence one pic may not work for all as our stack heights vary. On my 2018 with 100 AH batteries I could not use such a thick cutting board. Check yours before purchase is a good plan. GJ

Update: July 13, 2024 I completed the Houghton 3400 “Humidity Mod” as presented in the attached "Wiring Modification for Interior Fan" document. This excellent write-up was provided by GSM Bear, Version 2 and posted 7/30/2023. His document needs to be fully understood before starting this Mod. It took me about 2 hours working off a ladder on the curb side to carefully complete the mod. Suggestions: The suggested wire measurements are adequate and allow for re-termination if necessary. No need to add any extra length. I recommend that you prefabricate the new brown, black, and white wires. Much easier to do so on your bench vs. on the roof. Then physically plug them into the relay. One less thing to worry about when on the ladder. You will need all the “Parts and Tools Needed” as listed by GSMBear. Additional Tools and Supplied I Found Useful: Ladder Head lamp Wire cutter Magnet on a stick Large Phillips bit Silicone to reseal the electrical box Needle nosed & regular pliers Camera (I took pictures to allow me to “blow up” to get a closer look into the electrical box connections.) Mod Results: The Houghton ran as expected as the fan shut down with the compressor when it cycled down to low speed (Fan set to auto). Houghton also worked as expected with the fan set to low speed. This is the ultra good dehumidifying and quietest setting. Significantly lowered the humidity levels in the cabin. I had to set the remote temperature to a MUCH lower setting to get the cabin to a cool level. The unit Cycle time was significantly extended with the mod. As in extended way too infrequently. I believe that at the end of a compressor run, the fan shuts down with the overhead super cold coils, The coils then chill the air in the unit and being heavier it sinks down past the thermistor. As a result, the process keeps the thermistor “Chilled”. This delays the restart longer than desired. Moving the thermister to a location outside of the unit is needed Hence, the Thermistor Mod is required, as GSMBear states in his document. More to follow with completion of the Thermistor Mod in the next day or two. GJ GSM BEAR V2 RecPro Houghton Interior Fan Mod v2.pdf

Thanks for the segway JD! I completed the Houghton Humidity Mod (Install Relay) yesterday. Phase II is to do the thermistor relocation mod, Should have it done in the next day or so. Both are required as GSMBear stated in his July 2023 posting. I'll be posting on what I learnd and thoughts on the Houghton Thread. GJ