Geronimo John

5 years ago I did the same thing with 3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting tape (Amazon.com). I very carefully leveled the dispenser over the kitchen counter area with my six inch level and it has been in place faithfully after many miles. That was my first effort not to use screws and mounting an item in Ollie. About a year later, I was sitting at the dinette and noticed that the dispenser was tilted. First thought was "Drats that VHB tape is slipping". Tried to push it back "level" again. Nope. That tape is tenaciously adhered. Problem is that when I installed the dispenser, Ollie was not level. DUHHHHHH... (Picture Homer Simpson with Ice Cream Cone on forehead.) RECOMMENDATION: Don't use very much of that tape. Really! One little strip is all you need for your kitchen paper towel or magnetic cooking utensil or knife holder. QUESTION: Anybody have any thoughts how to remove a VERY WELL adhered dispenser without creating a giant divot in the inner hull? GJ

JD: I also really like:

Mike and CnC: Exactly my thoughts and procedures as they echo the Battleborn guidance. The intent of my post was to get just such feedback. That said, the advice and procedures stated are only for OUR Battleborn based systems. Other manufacturers have their procedures to be followed. The very reason it makes sense (as all three of us did!) to always state what battery manufacturer and size/model we are talking about. Especially for Lithionics that vary quite quite bit from Battleborn, especially in the topic of cold weather unattended storage requirements. . GJ

Back to that engineer's perspective: JD: Love it! All: We have safety chains/cables up front on Ollie to keep it with the TV during an OOPs. Might be a good idea to have a safety strap on the bikes themselves that is tied to Ollie's frame. At least should there be an OOPs, it will stay with you. GJ

I am a new Litho user so this is my dumb question(s) response: The idea of draw-down and recharge past "Resting Full Charge" on to equalization level is to ensure that all the cells are "together" voltage wise. For our Battleborns (3 Each 100AH = 300 AH Total), and charging at 60 amps, I was advised to charge up to 13.7 (RFC) and continue charging with our Progressive Dynamic's 60 amp charger for 30 minutes/ battery = 90 minutes. It will peak out at 14.7 and stay there for the equalization process. At that point, shut off the charger and it will settle back to RFC of 13.7 volts and all cells will be at that voltage allowing use of 100% of the installed batteries. The idea is to over charge for equalization purposes periodically. Bill's question and responses above went "Tilt" in pea brain so, I can't help but ask: Is there a reason to take it all the way down to the Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC)? Wouldn't just say 30% Status of Charge (SOC) do just as well? GJ and other new Litho's are a pondering......

At first when I read your response, I was sad face due to bike damage and trip interruptions. Then I was happy face when it was close to home and no damage to others property or person. What many of us, my self included, lacking was a full understanding how ROUGH the trailer contents inside the trailer in the attic or even on the bed at the aft of Ollie is while traveling. My eye opener came when I put my paraglider on the bed at back. I somehow bounced it off there and onto the floor. And it had been fully wedged in. When I place it at the front end of the bed, it travels quite nicely. Further back past the spare tire is true war zone as far as damage to things and stresses forced upon the cargo, tire or bikes back there. Owners contemplating putting anything back there should take a look at the massive amount of metal that keeps the spare tire in place. That was not designed by accident. Our spare tire weighs about the same as an E-bike. But with two and several feet of lever arm.... Let's just say that it would not have a chance on a trip to Alaska or for that matter just about anywhere off road. For grins I Googled Travel Trailer Bike rack Fails and a few others below. From RV Net Forum: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27780211/print/true.cfm Some interesting fails. That said, I found one solutions that as an engineer I really liked, but for sure would add a couple of gas shocks to take the load off when loading/unloading: GJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ And to round this out with a video for the youngsters try this one: GJ

Vic: From an Engineer's perspective, the ultra long moment arm of the assembly loaded with two heavy E-Bikes gives me concern for even good highway use. However, with the G-Forces induced by rough roads, and worse if taken off-road, my concern rises to grave. Under such conditions, be advised that: Due to the moment arm length and heavy load, that it would be prudent to counter balanced (by additional front of trailer loads) to somewhat restore your Ollie's great antisway characteristics somewhat. There is a significant potential for your added hitch, and/or the OTT components supporting it to unexpectently fail. I highly recommend your shortening the moment arm to a minimum and reduce the load if possible. As pictured this design IMHO is an accident looking and waiting for the worst possible opportunity to fail. GJ

Our trip started and ended in Houston. If fuel prices this year are like last year..... Bring a really big wallet. That said, our trip was worth every penny and was OUTSTANDNG! GJ

Thanks Craig. Many thanks. Also, nice wire racks! GJ

Please do confirm the number of feet to do them all. Thanks GJ

Those are great filter units. Which one do you carry in your Ollie? GJ

Our older hull 342 Owners Manual does show a cell Switch and a WiFi switch wiring. But it's location is not "to scale" shown. Where are your switches located? Knowing that would greatly reduce my "Easter Egg Hunt". thanks, GJ GJ

We're the HOT weather campers so.... Will the 7 cup fit in the door of the Dometic OEM frig? GJ

Frank: Great water process and planning for an emergency BugOut. The only caution I would suggest to new owners is to be aware that if they have LiFePO4 batteries, to know their specific charging requirements. For our Battleborns, it is not recommended to keep floating them to 100% for both use or for storage. Each mfg has specific charging and storage requirements for their batteries, and some, such as Battleborn, especially so for unattended deep cold winter storage, and it is not anywhere close to 100% SOC. Thanks for sharing your process. I'll be copycatting some of your thoughts into my routine as a result. GJ

Most importantly..... the good attitude will always carry a bad day with smiles. GJ

Yes, I did for many years. Then needed it. Don't now. 🙂

Craig: Don't know which furnace and stove you have, but if you check their BTU input ratings you could find the answer. If the actual required loads are less than the rated load, you're golden. Here is all the Suburban models that are in my 2018 hull 342 furnace O&M manual: I suspect as you are way under the rated load, you will be fine. But do add up all your gas usages (BBQ, Stove, etc.) just to be sure. JPRussell

Interesting question for sure. My family history is in the crude and natural gas transmission and drilling areas. No real experience on the refining side. So the below is just an educated guess. I do know that refineries have options on which product (AV fuel, gasoline, #2 Diesel and #6 heating oil, asphalt, and tars) that can be made. There are many combinations of percentages that they can operate at, some plants more efficient on some crudes than others to make the mix of their production. So, to answer your specific question: My intuition says that they will shift their production towards AV fuels and Diesel. However they will always be making gasoline.... at least during our collective lives anyway. GJ

Thank you Jeff for opening the door on this aspect of our "Clean Energy" asperations. The above comments are interesting and informative. I feel certain that the market will dictate where the Gas/Diesel fuel topic goes. I am more worried about the higher level aspect of where will all our energy to travel comes from. The below are my personal feelings and concerns with our energy infrastructure. Your hope is a good one, and I share it. But sadly I don't think there is any chance of that for many more years. As a country, and a world, we pretty much missed that boat 20 years ago. Why? Coal Power Plants: The EPA emission requirements for coal fired power plants have resulted in significant reduction of these "Cheap" to fuel environmentally dirty power plants. Down the road, it is not likely that they can or will be replaced as the older coal power plants are decommissioned due to age and high cost to meet Clean Air Act requirements. Significant coal investment on a national level died years ago. Nuclear: This for now, and likely 20 or more years, is the only power source that could meet the needs of the zooming EV and other needs. But they take way too long to build, and in some states it will ever happen. Hydro Power Plants: How many new lakes suitable for hydro power production have been built in the last 30 years? Basically none. How has hydro electrical production faired as a result of global weather change? Well down. With the EPA required environmental assessments becoming next to impossible to get approved, I don't anticipate this type of power production to be one to hang our hats on either. Wind/Solar: Yes, we are making huge investments in these technologies. Sadly the vast majority of this equipment is imported. Regardless, for sure in some locations, they will shoulder most of the DAY TIME power needed for the millions of EV's coming towards the market. But Wind/Solar can not be relied upon every day and night without major power storage. To date we just don't have the infrastructure or a technology to do so at a grid level. So back to burning more natural gas to charge all those EV's at night. So basically for the foreseeable future, I believe that Natural Gas will be used to fuel the vast majority of the power for the planned millions of EV's. But again our society has pretty much killed off the initiatives for the energy industry to build the pipelines necessary meet the pending demands of the EV. Worse, the energy industry as a whole does not trust that such billion dollar investments to be profitable to their share holders. Same problem with funding new refineries, pipelines, and drilling new fields as most of our existing fields are beyond their prime. The result is that there is a finite amount of natural gas that can be delivered and used for power production. Existing limitations will cause shortages and you can expect that the cost of power will rise significantly as time passes. Also that weather related problems will result in punishing costs to be incurred as we have not embraced buried utilities as many countries have. I can only hope that reliable battery technologies come on line, and we in the USA get our heads around the need for a comprehensive energy policy that addresses bridge technologies to get us through the next 20 years as we embrace the EV wave heading our direction. In the mean time: The utility companies are closely watching the Hawaii situation where our home and commercial use of solar panels have drastically changed the grid peak times for power production. Peak power production on Oahu used to be afternoons, and is now during late afternoon and evenings after sunset. Now they are moving us to time of NIGHT high power pricing. So if you are needing to replace appliances, recommend you consider ones that you can select when you want it to run. Investigate home solar panels, solar hot water generation, and solar produced power storage investments while there are federal, state and local incentives to do so. Have enough power storage so that you can use your investment when the grids are "temporarily" down. I think that the good news is that the Oil/Gas industry is not going away in our collective life spans. As such, our gas/diesel burning "old school" TV and Ollie will likely love the deserted roads at night when the solar powered EV power stations sit idle with thousands of EV's waiting their turn at the few grid powered Charging Stations. We'll beep beep our horn as they wait for sunup to get some juice into their batteries once again. I keep wondering why we rarely hear anything about addressing the capital costs for the needed electrical production, high voltage power lines and substations needed to feed the 50,000 power stations being built today. GJ

JD: Great graphic. I intuitively knew what was happening with air pressure and tire contact/drag forces, but had not seen it visually. thanks for sharing. It also makes a great justification for not going over 50 PSI on our OE2's unless it is way loaded. For us in the 6,000 pound group, doing so would appear to be little drag reduction with increased down sides as discussed above. Would be totally cool if OTT could run the OE2 over a glass plate at these pressures to see how close it mimics the Jeep visual. My gut says it would be really close. GJ

Yea, me too. Mine was a sheet of recycled military PSP (Perforated Steel Planking armoring a ditch crossing. Thank God Ollie was not under tow that day. Needless to say I got out the hack saw and significantly increased my hitch clearance.

Cool hitch. Could I use it to plow up my asphalt driveway? 🙂 GJ

Trailer's have been wearing out tires for ages. They can run in an amazingly wide range of tire pressures successfully. However running above or below that "Sweet Range" and the tires will make you quite angry. So bottom line we are talking about where in the Sweet Range we should run our OE2's. I submit that all the recommendations above are less than optimal and should not blindly be used. So before you get out your flame throwers, ponder the below first. I believe that within the "Sweet Range": A. Tires run at a lower pressure likely have a better ride for Ollie, but they also require greater power to run down the highway. B. Tires run at lower pressure when damaged get to flat quicker than ones at a higher pressure. This results in less opportunity to get pulled over before you start trashing the highway with dismembered rubber tire components. C. Tires run at higher pressures are more prone to puncture from pot holes and road hazards. Especially so when off road. QUESTION: So GJ, how do you run most efficiently, at a pressure to be the most flat resistant mode, while giving Ollie the best ride, and provide my family the best safety margin should you have a puncture? Answer: You can't have it all at the same time. QUESTION: OK GJ, what tire pressure do you run your Ollie at? Answer: Depends. If I am on the interstate or good roads running at highways speeds I use 50 PSI. When I go off road, I air down to 30 PSI for most conditions. If I am transiting soft ground and need maximum sink resistance, then down to 20 PSI. QUESTION: But GJ that's a PITA isn't it? Answer: Nope. I use a TPMS and an IR temperature reader to keep a watch on bearings (With hub caps removed as JD suggested), have a quality calibrated air gauge, and have a 20V Dewalt compressor. Takes me less than 12 minutes to air up/down four Ollie tires between highway and off road mode. Point is that each of us have different trailer weights that can vary depending on our loads at the time. We also travel different paths that our trailers must endure. SO, is it "OK" to say I air my trailer tires to XX PSI? Sure if it is in the sweet spot. It may be OK, but it sure is not optimal for all purposes as your trailer weight varies, as do your road surfaces and speed. Hence, my recommended Ollie tire pressure is.... It depends. GJ

Did you include the ROF (Retired Ole Fart) tail gate step, mud flaps, FX4 and HD Trailer package? They likely would bring it closer to the $80K number. 🙂 Just having fun. GJ

That would work as it is "Minimal-expanding, low pressure foam that will not bow or bend window or door frame". Use the expanding type and you would have a huge issue and mess for sure. I made that mistake on some window frames ONCE. It was not funny at the time, but it sure taught me a good lesson about how much power expanding foam has. GJ