Geronimo John

Just for grins, it would be fun to park your truck in the HOA with this set up. "But sir, I just opened up the cover. I promise to close it next month. Show me in the bylaws where I can't open my truck bed cover!"

Nice to meet you Sherry. GJ

SeaDog: I can assure you that if you don't use your A/C much, you'll likely never suffer from mineralization of your evap coil regardless of your fan setting. In practice, for even part time A/C use, the fan setting would not cause mineralization for just about any location. The unit will generally die first of old age, electrical shorts or compressor failure....not mineralization. However, for those that rely on their A/C and use if consistently, especially down south where hot and humid humid conditions prevail, the problem of mineralization accumulation primarily caused by coil drying with each cycle (Due to the fan running continuously, climbs significantly. For that group, the removal of calcified deposits requires a strong acid, and THAT is something that most of us would not want to mess with. Sorry I was not more clear. GJ

CNC you are spot on. One additional thought that compliments yours. By running the fan continuously, the dehumidification features is greatly reduced. WHY? Because when the compressor cycles off, it stops cooling the coil. With the fan still running, the gallon or more of water trapped in the coil evaporates off back into the trailer. Resulting in a much higher average humidity in the trailer. The above will likely result in the occupant setting the unit to a cooler temperature. Result: use of more energy and marginal comfort improvement. Bad. But MUCH worse is that by evaporating off all that water, the entrained minerals plate out on to your evap coil. This becomes a rock hard deposit that only strong acid will remove. Not something that 99.5% of us want to be doing. Best solution for humidity control for an oversized A/C is to run the fan on auto and low speed. This also keeps in "solution" the minerals and the majority of it runs out the evap drain tube to the ground. GJ

NOTE: This thread is not about how loud your OEM A/C is. Please go to the "Got Ear Plugs" or other threads for those discussions. This thread does seek info from OE1 (ONE) owners who have used their trailers in hot conditions. INTRODUCTION: It would be beneficial to know what owners think about the cooling capacity of various A/C units running in very hot conditions. SURVEY QUESTIONS: What is your user name, OE1 (ONE) model year, and it's Hull Number? What A/C do you currently have and what is it's BTU rating? While using shore power, what was the max outside temperature you have stressed your current A/C? How well did it perform? Other comments you would like to add? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ SAMPLE desired SURVEY RESPONSE FORMAT: (Happens to be my response for my unit) Invisible Owner, 1842, Hull -200 Domenica 13,500 BTU I have run my unit at 150 degrees conditions under direct sunlight. It cooled very well. Generally I think my unit is oversized. When I replace it, I will seek a smaller capacity model that uses less power; such as an inverter compressor with variable speed fans for evening use. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Again please don't respond with comments about how loud your unit is. We have beaten that horse enough. However how quiet yours runs is fair game for owners that have replaced their unit. Such experiences will help other owners in selecting a future replacement A/C 's so both size and quiet experiences are encouraged. I'm looking forward to reading your "Cool Experiences" . Thank you, GJ

LOL. Yep, the survey was for the OEII owners. But we enjoyed your input regardless. In fact, I'll start another thread for the OE1's to respond to as it may be good info for OTT to have. GJ GJ EDIT: Second survey for OE1 (ONE) owners is posted. 🙂

This may be worth a try: My understanding is that the Bluetooth transmitter is in the monitor housing. This likely is inside your Oliver Trailer. So, you have double hull fiberglass, double foil insulation between them, the distance to the house plus glass windows/walls of the house all reducing the Bluetooth signal. In the absence of a "Bluetooth Extender" your remaining option is to reduce the signal loss include: Moving the house closer to the trailer. (Or the Converse) Modifying the signal barriers (Take your windows out of the house, etc.) Thinking outside the box. Me, I would go for thinking outside of the box.... Literally. Your 712 Smart data cable and power cable often have a lot more wire length than is needed. Try removing the screws that mount the monitor and hang it outside of Ollie. Maybe through the window that is facing the house. May want to put it into a Ziploc Freezer Bag to keep it dry all winter and tape over the window crack to keep critters and weather outside. The end result is that you will have put your Bluetooth transmitter outside of all of the signal reducing barriers of our OTT. Be sure to reinstall in the Spring. Let us know if this works! GJ

Interesting that the Truma previous largest version was this 2400 watt unit. Mathematically speaking, 2400 watts cooling capacity is only 8,189 BTU's. it also is a 230V unit. It would appear that Truma is "Growing" their capacity for the US market (13.5K and 15K versions) and they most likely will be 110/120V units. Should that be the case, they IMHO are targeting trailers needing more cooling than the OEII needs. Can't wait to see how the testing goes and learning what models are actually being produced. If the above press release is complete, and the only options are 13.5K or 15K, then the OTT shown would most likely be a 13.5K BTU and that's oversized from at least one perspective. SO folks please do complete the survey over on that other thread..... Thanks, GJ

Busted. Per TCA, the Truma smallest is 13,500 BTU's. Drats............ GJ TCA Now Testing New Truma Aventa Air Conditioner July 17, 2021 Truma North America will soon be supplying the US RV market with premium Truma Aventa rooftop air conditioners. The Truma Aventa will be offered in two models that minimize noise and maximize comfort in a modern, energy-efficient, low-profile design. The Eco model will offer a 13,500 BTU cooling capacity, while the Comfort model offers 15,000 BTUs. As part of this release, Truck Camper Adventure is testing the Aventa Eco model for use in truck campers and vans. Both Aventa models will be offered in black and white. Truma has been selling Aventa air conditioners in Europe and Australia for years, but the North American Aventa was designed specifically for the warmer U.S. marketplace. Numerous partners, including Truck Camper Adventure, are testing the two air conditioner models this summer before the Fall 2021 release. TCA is testing the Eco model using both shore power and off-grid power. The latter system found in the Truck Camper Adventure rig consists of an Expion360 360 amp hour battery, a 500 watt solar power system, and a 3,000 watt inverter. Testing is being conducted across the country, including in the dry heat of Arizona and in high humidity areas in Texas and in the Midwest. Compatible with both ducted and non-ducted systems, the Truma Aventa comes standard with many advanced features, including an automatic cooling mode, a dehumidification mode, a night mode, an air circulation mode, and three manually selectable fan speeds (low, medium, high). Significant noise reduction, which has always been an issue with RV air conditioners, has been achieved in the Truma Aventa by using a thick, noise absorbing EPP foamcore, while the compressor is mounted on shock absorbers to avoid vibration. Based out of Elkhart, Indiana, Truma has a long history of providing high-quality solutions to the recreational vehicle market and is the manufacturer of the excellent Truma Combi water heater-furnace, Truma Varioheat furnace, and Truma AquaGo water heater. This is a developing story. Check back for details as the results of our testing becomes available. Share this:

Chris: No apologies needed. This new topic is on target to where I was headed. Basically what unit and what size works where (I.E. in what temperature conditions). I know that our OEII's are "relatively" very well insulated. But one must consider that the insulation level of most trailers totally stinks. So by comparison, the double hull and a bit of double reflective "Space Age" (SIC) insulation seems like a lot. In reality it is nowhere near that of most residential structures. (No rocks being tossed here as I am really pleased with the OTT's thermal performance). As such, my WAG is that the 9,500 BTU unit could work in many long duration run temperate conditions (I.E. not cool down). However it's ability to cool down Ollie after a long day's drive in the direct sun of the desert West, in the summer, would likely not be satisfactory to the expectations of owners. As such, my WAG is that the unit OTT will use will be the 11,000 BTU version. So to now pirate your thread (ERRRRRRRR) 🙂....... OEII owners, what's your thoughts on where OTT will land on the A/C size?

NOTE: This thread is not about how loud your OEM A/C is. Please go to the "Got Ear Plugs" or other threads for those discussions. This thread does seek info from OEII (TWO) owners who have used their trailers in hot conditions. INTRODUCTION: During the past four model years, the BTU (British Thermal Unit) capacity rating for our OEII's have been reduced. It would be beneficial to know what owners think about the cooling capacity of various A/C units running in very hot conditions. From Oliver University, I gleamed the below BTU capacity of the OEM units. These OEM A/C capacities have been verified by Jason. 2018 Domenica 13,500 BTU unit used this model year 2019 Domenica 11,000 and 13,500 BTU units used for this model year 2020 Domenica 11,000 BTU unit used this model year 2021 Same as 2020 SURVEY QUESTIONS: What is your user name, OEII model year, and it's Hull Number? What A/C do you currently have and what is it's BTU rating? While using shore power, what was the max outside temperature you have stressed your current A/C? How well did it perform? Other comments you would like to add? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ SAMPLE desired SURVEY RESPONSE FORMAT: (Happens to be my response for my unit) Geronimo John, 2018, Hull 342 Domenica 13,500 BTU I have run my unit at 100 degrees conditions under mostly direct sunlight. It cooled very well. Generally I think my unit is oversized. When I replace it, I will seek a smaller capacity model that uses less power; such as an inverter compressor with variable speed fans for evening use. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Again please don't respond with comments about how loud your unit is. We have beaten that horse enough. However how quiet yours runs is fair game for owners that have replaced their unit. Such experiences will help other owners in selecting a future replacement A/C 's so both size and quiet experiences are encouraged. I'm looking forward to reading your "Cool Experiences" . Thank you, GJ

Let's assume that for several more years that OTT is between a rock and a hard place with an exclusive contract with Domenica to provide their Hammer Mill A/C's. Was a great contract back then, but Owner expectations have changed since then. One would conclude that they are in a pickle that they can't get out of. So, until that contract expires they just keep taking unwanted beatings. My thoughts are one of condolences and a plea asking them to once again "think outside of the box", just as Mr. Oliver did when he created the first OE and OE2! If OTT were to reverse engineer a Houghton 9.5K and a 13K base plates to fit between Ollie and the A/C so as to facilitate use of the OEM internal condensate drainage line, this issue would effectively make this issue go away. It certainly would make peace with existing owners and give prospective owners a reasonable path via a full credit for not having A/C. This would also give Oliver cover with Dometic until their contract(s) run out. The cost to OTT would be some engineering and inhouse fab time. Not going to cost them anywhere the cost of having a festering wart on top of all their products. Such a path likely would be the best goodwill investment OTT has made in years. MODERATORS: Please forward this to Mr. Oliver. I would do so myself if I had the address.

Just to head off a small stampede of owners that think otherwise....... the issue is not strength of any of the Anderson components. But rather wear of the ball itself. This is especially the case of those needing extra weight distribution (Ergo high chain tension) such a Sequoia's, Land Cruiser's, and some half-ton trucks. The increased size of the 2 5/16 ball provides a larger contact wear surface at the ball.

For those of us that cover a lot of miles and worry about running the 3-Way on 12V there is another solution: Per John D's info, the 3-Way needs 15 amps. A Victron Orion 12 |12 -30 DC to DC charger (for example) run with 4 AWG cables from the TV to Ollie's Lithiums will provide just short of 30 amps. So all of folks with solar suit cases don't need to duct tape them to the truck any more. 🙂 And we have about 50% of the Orion still available to charge our Lithium's too. The next logical question is what does it cost to power up the 3-Way by the TV or by propane? GJ

Lithium!.... Batteries that is. LOL

I would really like a 3" trailer coupler extension to provide a bit additional clearance for the F-150 tailgate, and clearance between the front trailer box and my F-150 rear bumper. An extension of the trailer Ball to Axles would reduce tongue weight a bit, and also provide the desired increased clearances. (Vs. an extension of the Anderson receiver length would increase the tongue weight's impact on the axles.) So, please do start a new thread (As JD Suggested) if a solution is found. Mahalo, GJ

In 2018 I purchased Hull 342 with the 2 5/16" Bulldog/Anderson. With my F-150 the set-up worked in such a way that if my truck and trailer were in line, I could open the tail gate without damage to the gate. This past spring, I upgraded to the new version. It is taller in the saddle, and as a result my tail gate can not be fully opened. The bulldog release now hits the tailgate just below the camera. Tried to adjust the drop hitch level, but there is a "dead zone" between drop hitch up and drop hitch down. No go. Only way to fix it is to buy a new 2" drop hitch without a dead zone....... Any F-150 owners have a better solution? Thanks GJ

For my 2005 Sequoia TV, I used seven threads as I needed to toss weight forward to reduce excessive squat as much as possible. For my 2019 F-150 Super crew, I only need three threads and my axles TV axles are weights are good, and squat with the Anderson at three threads reduces squat from 2 1/2" to just 1 1/4". With the Beast (F-150) and Ollie fully loaded for boon docking (Full fresh water), full 36 gallons of fuel, one driver, and connected with Anderson in play at three threads, here is what the truck scales say for each axle(s): The BEAST OLLIE Front 3,000 Axles 5,350 (Ollie tongue weight included in truck numbers.) Rear 3,550 Truck 6,650 Truck 6,650 Actual GCW 12,000 Max GCW 16,200 Under GCW 4,200 POUNDS UNDER MAX

Outside noise is pretty much eliminated! GJ

I'm in the final stages of designing my upgrade from 12 volt Duralast Marine L/A Deep Cycle batteries (OTT Base Battery Package) to three Dragonfly Energy Battleborn 100 Ah lithiums. Doing this while almost 4,000 miles from our Ollie has created some challenges. I would greatly appreciate your assistance with the following: Pictures of the OEM Duralast battery cables in the battery box area. (My hope is to clear out all the battery clutter, an re-use as much of the 4/0 cables as possible) Close up pictures of the Positive and Negative Buss fixtures. Needed to connect the DC to DC charger, solar suitcase panes, and 350 amp master cutoff switch (Battery + Home Run) What are the + and - buss terminal diameters for the 4/0 (3/8"?) and terminals for the smaller cables? Upon completion of the effort next summer, I'll post a materials list of the effort. Thank you, GJ

Would love to see your fix for the 712 bad install.

In addition to JD's sage advice, I would not recommend 65 - 70 PSI in our OEII E-rated tires. YES, they are rated for 80 PSI, and you yes you could use this high PSI. In fact it was as recent as 2019 that many of us were using pressures in the 55+/- range. I liked that higher pressure for on road and high speed freeway use only. But as has JD and others, we have taken it down to the 45 to 50 psi range to soften the otherwise harsh ride that we were causing our Oliver's (Bouncing cushions and kitchen ware). More importantly, off road you really need to consider a much lower pressure to avoid rock punctures. Suggest searching tire pressure threads and take note the date of posts and recommended pressures. You'll find that over the past 4 years or so, both the on-road and off-road recommendations have come down quite a bit. Mahalo,

Not trying to be Oliver R&D (Who ever that is at Oliver per Topgun2), but the engineer in me thinks from a structural perspective, HDPE would be perfect. However, from a vibration perspective something softer would be preferred. Sort like a rubber composite with some give to absorb vibration, but also enough dimensional stability to keep its' height. That would take some research, but such materials do exist. For example the large diameter Concrete Sewer Lines, or Blue Brute both use a "Rubberish" gasket that has bulk, some compressibility, but dimensionally stable when compressed to the desired thickness. Lets say for talking purposes, that we wanted to use a 1/2" OD tube, then the spacer/gasket may be 3/4" think and compresses down to just almost a half an inch for tube passage. Would have some sponginess for vibration, but still give the anchor bolts resistance. REALITY CHECK: All that neat engineering overkill may be needed, but then if the Houghton does not have any vibration then HDPE would be a lot easier. 🙂

Having lived with the current OEM "Hammer Mill" A/C, if I had known then what we all know now, I would have insisted that Oliver keep their A/C and take the full list price credit. Then buy a good quiet Houghton and install it myself. Oliver has known that this unit is a major customer issue for a lot of years. In fairness thought, there were no great options available back then. There are now options, and they need to wake up and smell the roses. Again in fairness, thinking it can happen for the 2022 model year is most likely wishful thinking. GJ EDIT: DELETED TEXT ABOVE: Per Katanapilot: "I'll respectively disagree. The Atwood Air Command unit that John Davies has in his Oliver was factory installed some number of years ago."

The stumbling block will be for R&D to figure out a way for the evap coil condensate to the existing internal drain tube. Some time ago, I postulated that if the Houghton were elevated a bit (Spacer, rubber mat?) that it could provide for a flow line (down hill path) for the condensate to get back into the unit and out the existing drain. Considering that the distance is only about a 18 inches, and at an optimal flow grade of 1/4" per foot, the elevation of the spacer could be as little as3/8" for flow. Likely thought the tube would be a 1/2" tube from the Houghton exit back through the spacer . That would require a about a 5/8" spacer. Certainly worth R&D doing a layout and plan drawing just to check it out! However, my comment didn't attract any responses from anybody..... 😞 None the less it appears to be an option for R&D to look into. MODERATOR: Would you please forward this to our R&D Team? Thanks, Geronimo John