Geronimo John

Thanks Jason!

This note addresses the ropes or straps used by many “Non-Winch” vehicle recovery systems. Basically, there are two types of vehicle recovery ropes/strap designs: One uses the power of the retrieval vehicle to pull the stuck vehicle. This is a slow steady process some call “Static Pull” or “Low Energy” recovery design. The other has the recovery vehicle moving and stretching the tow rope/strap to multiply the pull-out forces considerably. These are called kinetic energy recovery (K.E.) ropes or straps. The tow related fatality video that I sent out previously (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb3BkeeXlIo) discussed not using our receiver hitch ball as a vehicle recovery attachment point. But in reality, ANY failure in the recovery system would likely result in flying missile(s) of various destructive energy heading either forward or backward depending where the break occurs in a K.E. based connection. The below video tests a Kinetic Energy strap that has redesigned by the OEM with a “safety strap” in an effort to control the uncontrolled energy during failure. It certainly highlights how safety clearance well away from the recovery operation is warranted. It is worth a watch to see the failure mechanics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7STkTpTjDCU If you are a professionally trained in vehicle recovery, and practice the craft on a regular basis, with all the correct equipment and safety gear…. then you would want to have the proper equipment as indicated in the above two videos. This would include both static pull and K.E. gear. I was strongly biased to purchasing a K.E. style system due to their effectiveness. However, after watching the above two video’s, I changed my mind for many reasons. After many hours of research and soul searching, now I am following Frank C.’s lead in preparing for “minor emergency towing situations”. To that which he posted, I added two soft Shackles to facilitate connection at the stuck vehicle end without creating a heavy missile. I also went with a 30’ tow strap to allow for more options. To be clear, this is a static/low energy set-up and will only be used as such. The Rhino gear I chose is on-sale (Pre Thanksgiving 2022) at the Rhino web site. The sale cost plus free shipping and a Muddy10 (10%) discount is less costly than Amazon Prime at this time. I am interested in your comments and thoughts. Mahalo, GJ Rhino Kit: 30' Tow Strap, Hitch Receiver, Shackle Kit: 7/16" Synthetic Soft Shackles (2 Pack)

Oh My... It is obvious that I totally missed the point. I think we have a new contender to the top three posters of fall time! Go JASON! James!!!!!!!! (GJ Edit OOPS! Sorry Jason!) LOL. It's been a slow day in Bedrock..... GJ

I am very sure that the new owner's of 2023 OTT's will greatly appreciate James W. taking the time to post all of these Owner's Manuals for all 1,000 of us that have 2022 and older units. It really was a grand task I suspect. I think we all should individually respond to him thanking him for doing so. Maybe one thank you from each of us for for each of the manuals. I am sure that he would enjoy seeing our unending gratitude. Was there a problem with just posting them to the Oliver University with a single note announcing the great info at our fingertips for the 2023 models? Sort of like we have for most years since 2014. LOL. GJ

OTT just posted about 60 of the 2023 Owner's Manuals. The one that caught my eye is the Truma Eco a/c. Here is the info of question: 6.1.2 Operation with generator or power inverter The air conditioner can be operated with a power inverter or generator. The following specifications are recommended: • Power inverter type: Pure sine-wave voltage • Nominal voltage: 110 V - 130 V AC • Phase: 1 • Frequency: 60 Hz. +/- 5 % • Inrush current capability: 250 ms with 115 V / 60 A RMS. • Loads: ohmic and inductive • Recommended power: min. 3000 W I wonder if OTT is providing the EZ-Start with this unit? Will it tolerate using one? GJ

SeaDawg: Excellent advice! Beaver Pilot: Please post your TV and OTT info in your signature line. I have three close friends, all life-long residents of AK, who basically advised us the same concerns posted by SeaDawg. This past summer, we spent 45 days in Alaska with our OEII, most of it boondocking. However we did not venture very far north of Fairbanks. Over 15K from TX out and back. You'll need to be prepared for a lot of flying missiles and very rough slow slogging roads heading your way, especially if you venture more than very far from Fairbanks. As an Alaska Bush pilot, you likely have all of the below. But for new owners who have not DRIVEN to AK, here is a list of items that I found appropriate: Searching "mud flaps" and "stone stompers" postings at our forum. Start by looking at the bottom of all of John Davies post where he has a link to several of them. He, and other owners have well documented DYI solutions that such a trip would warrant. One suggestion that I did not take, that I wish I had done, was padding the front edges of my OEII and rear mud flaps on Ollie. Got battle scars as a result. Bringing a full compliment of tire maintenance tools (TPMS, Air Gauge, Air Compressor, jack, and a tire plug kit is the minimum. Bring an RV satellite based navigation system/ I have, and recommend, a Garmin InReach Mini II. If you don't have Ford's 36 gallon fuel tank (or equivalent), then having extra fuel cans. If your TV is older, then consider rubber hoses and belts. Handy to have a spare engine oil filter and oil. Near perfect full size spares for both TV and Ollie. Vehicle recovery gear. Good set of tools. First aid kit and extra meds for the duration of your trip (No Resupply). Update your Ollie with outdoor bug lights (courtesy (puddle) lights and porch lights). Finally if going way north of Fairbanks, plan on replacing your windshield and likely your Oliver front logo when you get back. Please keep us posted, and when you get back, kindly update the above list with your thoughts and experience. Good luck and safe travels! Geronimo John

Glad it works now.

I think all of us Lithium users would love such a procedure. However, the problem is that there are soooo many different situations that call for different procedures. For example: A warm location where hard freezes are rare, would likely have different requirements than a location such as ours where Ollie is on top of a mountain in Oklahoma and can see -10 degrees F for a week, and in the teens for a long time some winters. Some have shore power, some have solar, some don't have an inverter. Some have Lithionics, some Battleborn, some AGM and some LA. Each has different requirements. Some have internal heaters, some external heaters, some no heaters. Some can remove their batteries to a warm location... many can't. Some can store their trailer inside a non-freezing area, some outside, some covered. Is there someone looking out for the trailer on a regular basis, or is it all alone in harsh conditions for nine months? Just to name a few. Each of the above likely have impacts on a specific situation. So many so that a matrix would be useful... May I suggest that you summarize your specific electrical systems (Solar, Inverter, Converter, Shore Power, Expected Temperatures, how stored, how long will it be stored under what conditions it will be stored, etc.) and send it by E-mail to your battery MFG. Having their response to YOUR specific situation in WRITING would be golden. Your summary and their answer would make a wonderful thread on this forum. "Maybe titles: "XXX MFG Charging Recommendations for XXX Lithium Batteries". In the mean time, all this gets clearer with use and understanding. It is wondaful that we have o many great owners here that are so willing to help the new guys along the way get to truly enjoy our wonderful OTT's. Mahalo, GJ

Margaret: I may be totally off base with this as I'm 4,000 miles from my Ollie to check your pictures against my railer. There are two "intended to drip/leak" drains for our OTT's. One just aft of the entrance door is the water tank overflow drain. The second is on the street-side rear for the A/C condensate drain. Could these be the leaks you are seeing? GJ

For our 2018 version I have found: It takes a full 24 hours to precool. Also it does so faster on propane. We travel using propane 98% of the time. Not if using tunnels in some areas. Works best on propane Once cooled down, it works fine even in 105 degree F IF I park our trailer with the curb side facing Northish. This pretty much keeps the sun off the refrigerator area. If I can't get it sort of facing that direction, some awning shade is advantageous. Direct sun on the refrigerator area with temperatures over 100 is problematic. GJ

Bill: Roger on the symmetry thing. Super cool idea on having change remote colors. Better yet, get the kind that can dance to the music. Even better for when camping near noisy neighbors or ones that didn't get the memo about only using inverter generators: Get high power LED stage lights that can go psychedelic to send them a strong message "silently". LOL Back to reality. when one fails I'll order three.

For all the time and effort you and other Moderators put into this Forum, I vote that OTT award you one (with case) in honor of your service to us all! Let's hear it owners what do you think about this idea?

In the five seasons we have had our Ollie, I have not once used the "City Water" port as it is intended. If I work my pump to death as a result, that's an easy fix. Finding a drip in the basement would seem to be a real PITA. But if you do use the city water port, there is no need to buy pressure regulators. Just ask the RV camp maintenance man for one. They collect them by the bushel basket from new RV Owners that have left theirs connected on a daily basis. No slam here. That's what I did with the one OTT gave me. Classic Homer Simpson ice cream to the forehead .......Duhhhhhh Got to be on the top ten dumb mistakes that new RV Owners make. Humm.. that would be a fun forum topic. But let's not highjack this post.

JD: On your recommendation some time ago, I purchased one for my mainland Ollie and Beast. Then one for here in Hawaii. Then two for my sons. Then one for my bother. In summary now five. When I purchased, the case was separate. If getting one be sure to get the case if it is not included. (See below) Obviously I highly recommend this tool unit and appreciate your highlighting it here on our forum.

My last assignment was as the #2 in CENTAF/A-7 (Engineering). My Engineering RED HORSE Tiger Team from ACC and I spent some time in Iraq. Our fully "Air Conditioned" and Up-Armored (LOL, SIC) Hummer is behind us. This was one of the few times that we were not wearing body armor and carrying long rifles and backpacks with 240 rounds each..... The two outside gentlemen are the smartest NCO's I have ever met. My partner wearing "Green" was a fellow RED HORSE Commander. Great friends all. Sure miss the mission and the troops. God Bless all our service men and women. They serve our country well regardless.

For softer forms of M.F., you are spot on. Ours are left for 8 to 9 months each winter. They are a firmer version with no impacts... so far..... We have Ollie in a dark barn on a mountain top Ranch in OK. Gets cold there. Little or no sun on our Ollie, but I cover it regardless. That and two large buckets of Damp Rid and it has worked well for the past 4 winters. GJ

I would love to purchase your unit. Please PM if it is still available. GJ

For many apps (Such as connection for a telephone call), the iPhone uses Bluetooth. However, for navigation mine has to be plugged in to the truck USB port.

Four thoughts: A. Topgun2's statement is spot on. There is not much we can do about the heat in our tires except changing our driving habits as the road surface varies. That said, there are a substantial number of blowouts due to heat related to under-inflation causing sidewall flex and that causing blowouts. So, general consensus is that within the tire pressure range, it is better to be a bit high than lower. B. Knowing the impact of your trailer and all loads in and on the TV is important. Get this by weighing your TV and trailer, each fully loaded. Also weigh your TV with just normal day to day loads. With these numbers, check the tire pressure guide from your tire MFG. Adjust accordingly. And keep Thought "A" in mind. C. It took me a long time to understand how much tire pressure changes between "Cold" and hot conditions. I often thought I had a slow leak or a bad air pressure gauge during morning checks. So I recommend checking tire pressure early in the morning while the sun has not yet had much of a chance to mess with the tires. Once you have set them, don't worry about them during the heat of the day. As a young man while towing across Texas, I checked them at the gas station in El Paseo in 105 degrees. I made that mistake of lowering the TP to "Cold" pressure. The result was two blown trailer tires about 90 miles from nowhere. Sidewall flex heat generated from under inflation.... Once again, see Thought "A" above. D. Get a TPMS for your trailer and TV. They can give you advance warning that can easily warn of a slow leak or underinflation before it becomes a mess. I highly recommend the below air compressor and tire pressure gauge. I also use the below TPMS and have had good service. It however is a bear to program and reprogram. I bought my TPMS in 2018. Hopefully by now there are more user friendly ones. So, I recommend looking to the OTT Forum for more current TPMS recommendations. Bottom line is for this topic, for sure buy quality. ESSENTIAL TIRE MAINTENANCE TOOLS Dewalt 20V Air Compressor TPMS JACO Air Pressure Gauge NOTE: Every Jaco product is designed, manufactured, and supported in the U.S.A. Jaco has been manufacturing in Franklin Massachusetts for more than 45 years. Their tire pressure gauge is calibrated accurate to ANSI B40.1 standards.

Comment A: We could debate what "Not Matches" means, but for the sake of a brief response, the more you need weight distribution on your TV, the more one has to crank-up the Andersen Chain Nuts. More chain tension for such proper set-ups results in greater 2" ball wear. If you are towing with a 250 Super Duty, you certainly would not have much squat and a lot more load headroom on your rear axle. For that set-up, not much chain tension is required (if any). As such you would not have much ball wear. If you have a Land Cruiser or a Sequoia as John D has and GJ had, then seven threads would likely be all you could get and ball wear was in fact excessive on the smaller ball. Comment B: Your comment has some merit for some owners. But as written, it could be considered by most OTT owners to be a bit less than appropriate. Just saying.... Please take this constructively. After all you home run average is off the chart.

For towing an LE2 with an F-150 3.5 EB, I and others here get the 36 gallon tank, and FX4. For mine, the Heavy Duty Payload was not offered. In our case we absolutely use the first options every trip. For our use, the HDP package would have been nice. But not REQUIRED (for us) as the first two.

In the down position, It would put the mounting screws in more sheer. With it up, the TV is resting on the mount. That should take off most of the stress of travels. So my pea-brain says it should be up on rough travels. That said Thanks Seph and Dud B for the oops. If my mount looked like the below, I would consider adding an aluminum plate between the TV and the rack to stiffen up the TV side of things.

Great info Bill. Question about your cell phone connection. In my 2019 F-150 I'll be following the plan of this thread. I use an I-Phone that "talks" via an apple cord through the Ford USP port to the Sync 3. This allows the onboard Ford navigation systems and other programs to operate and also keeps the I-phone charged. Assuming I tap the cigarette lighter (vs. plugging the I-phone cord into the F-150 USB slot), would that negate use of the Sync 3 Nav and other programs that rely on the iphone data?

I don't recall reading anything about "Up" or "Down". Did I speed read over this chapter when I read the O&M Binder?

I also have a bit over 40K miles on our 2019. Guessing that 75% of those miles have been pulling hard with our OE2 in tow. Vast majority at interstate speed (plus) from TX to mountain sites out west. Because of the phaser rattle history on these engines, I purchased the FORD extended warranty. Like you, we have had no issues at all and also are consistently amazed with this engine. 🙂 For every dry start (Not having been run for a few days or longer), I use what I call the F-150 EcoBoost Forum "Full Throttle No Start" procedure to pressurize the oil system without the engine getting fuel. I believe that using this process has and will greatly extend the life of the old style phasers: Hold the gas pedal to the floor. This action tells the computer to not allow the fuel injectors to send fuel into the combustion chambers. No fuel and your motor will not start. Crank your engine for 10 to 15 secs at a time. Wait a bit in-between spins so the starter can cool a bit. While spinning the engine, watch your oil pressure gauge. It will climb as the oil pump pressurizes the oil galleries, turbos, timing chains and most importantly your phasers. When the oil pressure reaches "normal", take your foot off the gas peddle and your engine will fire off and run. I won a beer off my brother who said the above would not work. It does on all the Ford EcoBoost engines we have tried it on. GJ