Geronimo John

Moderator: It appears that we have wandered afar from the topic. I don't mind it tooooo much as it was the original poster that morphed us over into the lug nut torque discussion. 🙂 Any chance we could be moved over to a new post line? Mahalo, GJ

I have sent Dexter, E-trailer and SenDel RFI's for all of us. E-trailer's first response was to quote the OTT Owner's Manual = 120 ft-lbs. I pushed back for THEIR opinion. We'll see Here is the Sendel Web Site: https://recstuff.com/trailer-wheels?_bc_fsnf=1&Style=S20&Color%5B%5D=Silver+Aluminum&Color%5B%5D=Silver+Machined+Aluminum&Size=16%2 Here is the SenDel rim some of us are using: The SenDel product I believe we have is their S20 66655T. S20 = Style of the rim 6 = 16” diameter 6 = 6” wide 6 = Number of lug bolts 55 = 5.5” bolt pattern T = Aluminum They are listed on their web site for $189

JD: I have looked for 90 minutes for the Dexter torques for a 6 each 1/2" lug, 5.5" spacing with Bulge Acorn nuts on an aluminum rim. By chance can you share your source info? Thanks.

Aaron: I will be coming south from Alaska 3rd week in August. Then near Moore, Idaho at the KMFP for about ten days. Then heading to SLC after that. If any of that is close to you, feel free to PM me. Geronimo John

Wow David Thanks! I have been copying them to a word document, then grabbing a corner to shrink it, and then cutting and pasting it back into the forum! I like your way better! GJ

JD: I am not indicating that they currently are using these torques. Just that in 2018 when my Ollie was hatched they were. NEW OWNERS: Do any of our "New" owners have a picture of the torque sheet they used on your 2021 or 2022 model Oliver's? GJ

Sounds like a PITA to me. I would consider a splitter and just run one leg out to the back. Easy.

This is a picture from the production line when mine was hatched. Looks like 43 is the number for four each Jack Mount Bolts.

JD: Good suggestion. Just wondering if crossing the two zip ties to form a pair of "X's" over the blanks vs. two parallel ties would make is more secure? Or am I missing something. Thanks GJ

Wow. That is awesome craftsmanship. I agree with your thoughts on the Pedigree of the AL, and it's availability. I can only imagine what the counter guy would say by my asking for several pieces of large aluminum tubing all about a foot or less long. I suspect I would be wearing his boot as I flew through the doors. Unlike JD and his Land Cruiser, I think I'll look closer at welding an extension on the 2" receiver to pull back the Anderson. Suspect it would only require about 3". On my F-150 SuperCrew that probably would work pretty well. I very much appreciate your taking the time and effort to showcase the solution you have on your trailer. Mahalo, Geronimo John

Wow, thank you all for the ideas and suggestions! Each of you have enlightened me with additional ideas, solutions or improvements. Mahalo all! GJ

My 2019 F-150 Super Crew FX4 is used 80% of the miles towing Ollie. So, stone protection will remain on the truck always. Sadly the cost of the "Store Bought" Rock Tamers are above the funding line on my wish list. So I'm looking at a possible DYI mud flap effort before hitting the Alaska tour (12,000 miles) this summer. I'm thinking a pair of 1.25" X 1.25" X 3/16" aluminum angles each about 20" long. Use three or four Riv-nuts attaching each angle to the bottom section of the bumper, extending an inch beyond the tire outside face. Hanging two pieces of used 1/4" or 5/16" conveyor belting with SS fender washers, nylock nuts and bolts. Aluminum angle would not be horizontal, as it would follow the angle of the bottom edge of the bumpers. Conveyor would have bottom 90 degree angles, and the top two angles would be the same as the bumpers. Conveyor belting would extend half an inch beyond that. Conveyor flaps would extend vertically down to 3" above pavement with all loads and Ollie in play. Due to aerodynamics, I would prefer to keep the conveyor width to just that needed for reasonable rock protection of Ollie. As such, I not thinking of the full monte of 24" width of the Rock Tamers. I would very much appreciate the F-150 Stone Catchers thoughts on this. Thank you! GJ

Bill: I am very interested in your hitch extension. Don't feel a need for the electronic sway device, but would love info on that extension! Thanks, GJ

Bill and Frank: Always good to know the facts behind the observations. So bottom line is that Dexter's grease caps can't tolerate (in my case three) annual services. Now that's what I would rate as a very subpar product. Bill: I noted your using the REDLINE heavier grease cap. The model you posted appears to be for the EZ Lube hub which certainly was not stock on your trailer. Just wondering why you don't use the REDLNE RG04-020 1.986 OD Drive-In grease cap? My thought line is that a solid grease cap would likely be stronger than one with a huge rubber plug in the center. Your thoughts? Thanks guys.... LOVE your thoughts and experiences. Geronimo John

I have not seen any Dexter requirements to replace the grease cap during routine service. HOWEVER, as verified by both Jason and Dexter, they seem to have in service more than few grease caps that are defective and have a propensity of falling off. For our Ollies, they get trapped inside of the wheel rim decorative cover where they rattle around. With a few miles, they will bash out the wheel rim small "hub cap" (another reason to RTV the decorative wheel hub caps to the decorative wheel rim decorative cover as JD has suggested in a previous post!). Apparently more than a few Dexter OEM grease caps have a diameter is just a tad too small and even if properly applied, can come off. This will expose your wheel bearings to dust and moisture... especially if you have chosen to run your rig without the little hub cap as some have chosen to do to facilitate monitoring bearing hub temperature with a heat meter. The solution is to purchase heavier duty grease caps. Or call Dexter and they may send you a set. If not, I like the heavy duty NAPA version.

They likely make even more by our having to replace them if we don't follow your lead!

I have only 5 years and 25,000 trailer miles with the same system. No issues at all.

For sure the microwave plate is on our arrival/departure list. We use a large fluffy towel and wrap it well, and put it back into the microwave. Best place for it. Never had even a second thought about it there.

Frank: I like your approach of having two safety supports at the tire change side. In addition, I only jack up my OE2 ATTACHED to my truck. Parking brake set of course. So, should something upset the apple cart, I'll have three safety points. Nothing like having a 6,000 pound truck as an anchor. 🙂 GJ

We'll be covering over 12,000 miles this summer. I figure that with all that is going on in the world, to delay our Canada/Alaska trip may result in a lost opportunity... forever. My recommendation is that if you have the means to do so, roll your Ollie's this summer and do that trip while we still can.

I'm thinking the sound is that of a electrical contact. Maybe just a loose connection. Is the pressure switch a simple in line type on the pump?

Were the brackets "printed"? What are they made from so as to flex for tightness, yet be strong? Ingenious solution! GJ

Outstanding mod! Beautiful workmanship! Should you go that direction, I too am interested in a set! The fact that they are super strong leads to two possible ideas for V2. If the leading and trailing edges were tapered so as to guide obstructions away from the hull that would be even better. It would tend to reduce the potential for damage to the eyebrow itself. Would likely require some increase the length to do so. I appears that the eyebrow itself is made from very stout aluminum. It may be possible to reduce the thickness a gauge for weight reduction. That said, I like that they are stout and as such, lay very straight! Amazing Mod! Thank you for taking the time to post your work. GJ

ANOTHER great effort. Master Craftsman work for sure! Will your two solar panel cases fit in the OE2 main closet in front of cloths hanging on the cloths rod? From your Lithium install, you have pretty much totally maxed out space in the battery box. However, is we were to use smaller/less capacity Lithium's, do you foresee any problems with mounting a ZAMP Solar Sidewall Port actually in the battery box hatch to feed directly into a solar suit case Voyager Solar Controller and batteries? Thanks GJ

I will always look to buy USA made. But the cost delta has to be reasonable. In this case it is a tool that will get used annually. McMaster Carr cost is $51. For the current on sale Amazon Chinese Knock-off the cost is reduced to $19 (See below). Double the cost is is beyond my "reasonable line" this time. GJ