Galway Girl

Ours broke after a rough dirt road in the Yukon. We happened to carry new brass shark bite fittings for that location. Trimmed it up and we're all fixed up in 15 minutes. I now carry an assortment of fittings and some short lengths of pex in the trailer.

Thanks for the reply. It's very helpful to have site reviews that state the campground and site for future reference. Sometimes we have had to do reviews and say our trailer won't fit or the sites very steep etc. Here's a steep side slope at Devils Lake State Park in Wisconsin. It was once a golf course turned into a campground and many of the side lots had large left/righ slopes.

What site number was that and which loop? Really great site!

So did you find the red one up under the dinette was for the composting toilet and red one in rear wheel well for zamp?

I have a 2019 and don’t have a fuse for zamp there. Our zamp fuse holder looks like that but is located in street side rear area by the rear wheel well. Our zamp connecter is on the side of the trailer just past the battery box. Maybe your zamp connector is near that fuse. Do you have a composting toilet? Did you follow the wires & look where the wires connect?

Our installed wires from solar were 6awg zip line. The original terminals were 6awg so I left them in place.

To add to this topic, In 2019 Models Oliver didn't install a solar cutoff switch. I've posted a how to add a solar cutoff in this blog post. link below: https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/install-a-solar-cutoff-switch#ba015e70-35c6-4ccf-a9f3-b05f12d7eb30 Craig - Hull 505 - Galway Girl

I like where you put your unit in the side of the pantry. I assume you had enough original lead wire coming from the solar panel to reach over to that wall. In hull 505 they left a ton of wire for the run after the controller down to the battery, but not an extra inch on the roof solar leads. I also just finished the installation of a Blue Sea Dual Circuit Cutoff Switch m 6010 and then read your post. Thanks for showing the pix ! Full Blog Post here: https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/install-a-solar-cutoff-switch?blogcategory=Electrical+Upgrades After inpecting the space I decided to mount the switch to the left side of the Zamp solar controller. A bit ugly but very visible to anyone using the trailer. I'll be adding a label just above the switch for instructions. Finished Installation Below - M 6010 Blue Seas Dual Circuit Cutoff Switch mounted as a bulkhead mounting. Here are a few "in the process" photos and the steps taken for this installation: SWITCH USED: Blue Sea Dual Circuit Cutoff Switch m 6010 WHY: The code for Solar Cutoff is that the switch must disconnect both legs of the solar panel leads. This means a dual pole (dual circuit) switch is recommended. Buy it from Amazon: Blue Sea 6010 Dual Feed Switch Mounting considerations: This switch can be mounted in 3 ways... I chose the middle - bulkhead front panel mount - for ease of installation. 6010 Blue Sea Switch Dimensions - Front Panel Mount hole saw size is 2 5/8". Installation Process: 1) Covered the solar panels with cardboard so the panels were dark with no voltage output. 2) Unplugged trailer from Shore Power and turned off the Lithionics Batteries. 3) Removed the 2 screws holding the Zamp Controller and inspected the space for positioning of the switch. 4) Decided based on my particular situation to cut off 5" of the leads coming FROM the Solar Panels. I reuse the cut portion leaving on the Zamp connectors to connect between the switch and the input side of the controller. (Note: If you have a bit more length on the input solar cable, it would be better to have about 8" of cutoff to make mounting the switch easier.) Here are the leads being prepped that will go from the output side of the switch to the input portion of the Zamp controller. The switch has 3/8" (M10) lugs, so I crimped #6 x 3/8" lugs to each of the cut wires. Heat shrink was added to each. (Note - I left the Zamp output leads mounted to the controller as they were and just checked for tightness when re-installing Zamp into mounting hole.) 5) Mounted the leads back onto the controller. Crimped the leads onto the lines coming from the solar panels. Next phase is drilling hole and mounting the switch. 6) Prepared and drilled the hole at the centerline of the controller and centered on the empty space. As I was doing a front mount of the switch I needed to use a 2 5/8" hole saw to match the engineering drawings for the switch. The bag at the bottom is to catch the shavings that come out the front as the hole is drilled. 7) Attached the input leads and output leads to the switch and tightened using a 14mm Deep Socket. 8. Mounted the switch by predrilling holes and then attached with stainless pan head #10 screws / 3/4". (Note - I drilled the holes slightly smaller than the screw so they had bite. You can also just drill holes and use stainless bolts with lock washers on the back side.) 9) Go remove the covers from the solar panels and test....voila you now have a solar cutoff switch for storage and safety while working on your electrical systems. Craig Hull 505 - Galway Girl

"The batteries are fully charged and my 110 outlets will not work with the solar. I am wondering if there is a fuse somewhere else in the trailer, other than the fuse/breaker panel or if I have a problem with the transfer switch, maybe? I'm asuming the problem is inverter-related, but not sure. I have the 320 solar watt package, with the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter. The batteries are fully charged and my 110 outlets will not work with the solar." is this statement true...batteries at 100%, you are not connected to shore power and your 110 outlets don't work....but your inverter is ON? Here's a checklist to help: Battery Charged (YES) Connected to shore power (Yes) (No) Inverter On (Yes) (No) Fridge Breaker Tripped (Yes) (No) = ours has a 20amp breaker in the panel for the fridge Inverter Built In GFCI Tripped (Yes) (No) = There is a plug in on the actual inverter that has a GFCI on it...see below GFCI In Outlet Tripped (Yes) (No) = Our hull has a second gfci outlet on the front of the dinette seat.

If your batteries are too low of voltage < 10.5v the 2000 watt inverter shuts down. the inverter should alarm on low voltage or give an E01 code. when you are in solar if the batteries drop too low the inverter will not turn on again until the batteries are charged When we boondock we leave the inverter off unless we need 110 as it draws down the batteries just being turned on. if you fully charge your batteries the inverter should begin working.

15Amp is blue, and it's for the water pump. Pix of ours so you can read it in a 2019EII Hull 505 Notice that I crossed off the #5 AC breaker for the 12V Charger. When I upgraded to Lithium batteries I replaced our embedded 12V charger with a new combination 2000W Inverter/Charger . I disconnected the wiring from the 15A breaker for the embedded 12v charger to deactivate that circuit.

@BoondockingAirstream you may want to watch this before your tech shows up. How to troubleshoot electric brakes.

It appears you have brakes that work (from your break away switch test). But your 7 pin to brake connection isn't working. Hoping the RV Tech helps you out and gets it all set up correctly. As an aside to your brake issues....it's important whenever brake assemblies are new or changed to "burnish them" in before full trailer use. I learned when picking up Hull 505 that electric trailer brakes on new trailers must be BURNISHED or heated up to brake them in and seat them to the drums. When we started to pull away I grabbed the controller and squeezed...no brake action. I walked back into the service team and they showed me a page in the Dexter Service manual. They said I needed to burnish my brakes by driving on some back roads on my way to the first campground. I found that after about 30 applications my brakes where really starting to work well. The next morning as we pulled away I dropped the controller back to 5 out of 10 and I had working brakes on our trailer. This is NOT done by the factory that assembles the trailer. It must be done either by the DEALERSHIP selling the trailer....or more likely the OWNER. Hopefully you'll catch a break and things will all be fine after your RV Tech visit. To seat the brakes, Dexter and other manufacturers have a recommended brake in procedure. *See video&

Wow...that's an early composting toilet then...we don't have one. That means even between builds the factory might change which wire is for which purpose.

Oh yes....it does show that on the schematic. Sorry for the red herring.

The breakaway switch connects the blue wires and the pink wire through +12v side of a 20amp resetting breaker (under the street side rear bench cover). CS

What's your hull number. How are you charging them? Are you charging from shore power using the on board inverter/charger? If you're running from a 15 amp circuit plugged into the trailer you may need to change the settings on the charging part of the inverter charger. A little more info will help us troubleshoot. Craig

Yes you need a controller for the 2 external panels as the ZAMP connector on the side of the trailer goes through a fuse then onto the batteries. Solar Suitcase Tips and Build Inside this article I discuss how the zamp connector is reverse polarity from other SAE connectors so be certain you wire your adapters correctly. You can buy the adapters on Amazon. Zamp Cable - Zamp Cable from Amazon Craig

@dewdev that is the 1AMP fuse for the propane/leak detector in our case located under the dinette.

For our 2019 here's where it connects under the street side bed (hatch nearer the pantry)

Some of our older Olivers don't had a solar cutoff but instead have as a safety from shorts a 30A self resetting circuit breaker. I suppose one could wire in a 30Amp solar cutoff right after that and mount it in the under bed area where that circuit breaker is located. Saw this demo video showing how that breaker works....about half way into the video. Didn't realize that the ones in some of our Olivers don't have a button to push, but reset automatically after the spring circuit inside cools down. Cheers, Craig

We own same year hull 505. Started towing with 1/2 ton then upgraded. We share a ton of info on our blog here that may be useful as an owner of the same year. https://4-ever-hitched.com/ Craig & Rose hull 505 - Galway Girl

In a recent facebook post the Progressive EMS that is located under the rear dinette seat came into question. The poster had been concerned about the other posts about the transfer switch and decided to look at the wiring in the EMS Unit in the same dinette seat bay. Below is one of the pictures he posted showing his burnt wiring (in the white circle). He also posted a videos showing the main power switching board completely loose as the bolts holding it in place had fallen off. Since I already check the connections on the transfer switch each year, I decided I would also check my Progressive EMS unit as well. Good thing I did as the bolts had fallen out just as in the Facebook Posting. EMS and Transfer Switch Locations: Under Rear Dinette Seat (next to Pantry). Looking down into the under dinette seat you'll see the Progressive EMS is held onto a vertical mounting board near the aisle. It's held in place by 4 - #2 phillips screws into the board. The Progressive transfer switch is across from the EMS on the forward wheel hump (for units with front and side street power inlet option.) Safety FIRST- Make sure you're not connected to street power and that your Inverter is OFF. To be really safe you may want to shut off batteries as well. 1) I placed a towel under the EMS unit work area because I've lost more than one screw down the abyss. 2) Removed the 4 #2 phillips mounting screws from the corners up the unit. (Note - to access the top front screw you likely will need to detach the cable that connects to the remote display...it's a network clip connection.) 3) Tilted unit so it was facing up. 4) Removed the 6 - #1 phillips screws holding on the lid. 5) Inspected the wires and none were scorched. 6) Wiggled the main connection board and it was very loose...one of the two nuts holding it onto the 2 mounting bolts was loose, lying in the bottom of the case. 7) Checked for bolts (thread through back of case) Luckily the bolt was still attached to the case. (They are phillips head countersunk bolts. Which after working on them I taped them in place from the outside.) 8 Reconnected the bolts to the nut putting on blue thread locker. 9) Checked tightness of all the lead screws and the bolts on the 3 ground lugs (green). See PIX below: 10) Put lid on and then re-attached to mounting board and re-attached remote display network wire. Tested with shore power and all was well Tricky Bits: Getting my hands into the bolt area was a trick. I got a proper size nut driver and put a bit of tape inside to hold the nut flat in place. I carefully threaded the nut driver down to the bolt which had blue thread locker already drizzled in place. Progressive Transfer Switch inner connections above: I've submitted a ticket to Oliver, and a letter to Progressive Industries and requested a service note about yearly maintenance. Here are the wiring diagrams from the PD Manual for this item: Craig - Hull 505 - Galway Girl

We use US made Flexzilla hoses. They are drinking water safe and stay flexible in low temps. Here’s our complete list in our blog: https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/campsite-water-setup?blogcategory=Camping+Equipment

Covered this topic in the blog post below as FYI: https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/here-comes-the-sun The Oliver Elite II units with Solar Options have an external Zamp Connector on the side of the trailer which is connected through a 20A fuse to the trailer batteries. That Zamp Port doesn't connect to the onboard Zamp Controller, so you need a second controller for external panels that are to connect to the Oliver trailer.