SeaDawg

In the shorty, the duct doesn't run through the back of the trailer. The furnace has been moved to the dinette seat near the toilet room. I would open a drawer or access hatch, to provide heat to the interstitial space, imo, if temos dropped into the teens.

@Carl Hansen are you getting the Elite, or Elite II?

Just a thought--have you scrolled through the numerous exclusions on the Airstream standard original warranty? Or other manufacturers? Airstream exclusions are several pages long, including pretty much any appliance or other item warranted by the component manufacturer. https://support.airstream.com/hc/en-us/articles/360031206251-What-is-not-covered-in-the-Limited-Warranty-Policy- As far as transferring extended warranty, I have no idea if this is transferred or not. It was not offered in 2008, nor would we have purchased it, if it were.

I have many times suggested a small electric heater to extend propane tanks. As a supplement. The furnace makes a much bigger difference in the cavity heat, especially in the new ducted trailers. In our 2008 trailer, unless you leave access doors/drawers open, I'd worry that not enough heat was getting to the interstitial space to keep lines from freezing in really cold weather. I've never camped in one of the new, better insulated trailers, so I don't know if my comment is relevant. But, if under 20 or so, I'd set electric in low, open an access, and run the furnace on low, as well. My opinion. Owners of newer trailers, please add your thoughts.

Nicole, the full size (53 or 54 inches wide bed) is 6 inches wider than a lot of other small travel trailers (including many small airstreams). But, a queen is 6 inches wider, yet, at 60 inches. Adding 6 inches to the bed of an Elite would make the kitchen and small dinette super tiny and uncomfortable, or require an expensive mold redesign and change to add 6 inches to the trailer. I totally get it. We have a king at home. Used to have a queen, so the difference wasn't much. It still doesn't bother us. Especially during cold weather camping, the smaller cozy space is nice. Oliver doesn't really monitor this space, so you might want to send your suggestion in an email? Years ago, I used to say that if Oliver would make a little larger trailer, with a queen bed and a bigger fridge, I'd consider trading up. At this point, I don't think I would. We love our 13 year old trailer. It may not be "perfect " for us, but it's pretty close. Sherry

Several of us use the Pur. Some use Brita, but I think Pur filters more contaminants. https://www.pur.com/why-pur/filter-comparison-pitcher

Carnivore, could you tell us, please, the year of your trailer, and type of ac and thermostat you have? Thanks.

Now, wouldn't those photos bring a new dimension to "four season" camping?

When that happens, it's time to plane new routes, see new places. Or, revisit favorites.

I'll second Bill's recommendation of Blue Springs Campground. Jackson County operated. Super clean. Decent space between most sites. You won't see the lake, it's wooded, and the lake is aways away. The camping world 30 minutes away in Grain City was really good to work with. Unfortunately, the campground probably won't be open in March.

Collier and Joan, Thanks for letting us know how your problem resolved. This will definitely help others, in the future.

It's quite true that closed cell foam provides better insulation, as John says, by 50 per cent, or even better, r value, dependingon the material. And, a better long term choice. We're also looking at things people "might have on hand."

Funny. I just got back from a trip to Ace. I love my local Ace, too. Saves so many trips to bigger box stores! (And the staff in the store actually know where everything is, and often even how to use it.) I think your soft squishy foam would work. I keep some cutoffs from a memory foam mattress pad, and some pipe insulation, around. I really like topgun's insulation ideas.

I'm sorry. I meant the outside shower compartment door. I should have been more clear. Back of Beyond pretty much explained that-- foam, towels, something to insulate the inside of the compartment door, then close it up.

This topic does come up, every winter, at least. I think it's really helpful if those of you who have camped in cold weather in an Elite II add your comments, add in at what temperatures your tips have been successful. Sherry

No apologies necessary. Discussions like this one help make the "best" better, imo.

He/she who sleeps closest to the controls.... is elected 😆

Mine are similar. Could you also add a photo of the strike plate, please?

Returning the product, vs chancing a future leak, isn't a bad decision. I would say, with unknown adhesives, we've used a hair dryer or heat gun on low, to good effect. Plus mechanical, as in plastic scraper. Dealing with unknown adhesives is a big issue. Too much heat can damage surrounding material. I totally respect your decision. I wouldn't want to warp the door material. We still use a shirt or jacket over the head bump cushion, 13 years in.

Camping, at 12 at night, 35 day, I'd add a piece of foam to the shower door. Run the furnace. If in storage, I'd do a full winterization .

Susan, our bypass valve requires lifting the seat hatch. I have a 2008. It's not easily visible, but identifiable in the chart. Which, we have to look at every year, because we do it so infrequently. Our bypass is pretty much hidden under other plumbing runs, but it's there. Maybe next year, I'll tie a ribbon on ours. Good luck . Sherry

Back when I was driving with my dad, (decades ago), if forecasts were iffy, we dropped down and went through Texas, in winer and spring. It was longer, cost more in gas, but safer. Weather forecasts are better now. March can be iffy.

Mike's post reminded me. Our tpms adds weight to the stem. If you add a tpms, you may (at least slightly) change the balance of your tires.

Oliver may be one of the few manufacturers that actually specifies balancing. I would be more concerned about under-inflation, than balancing. I'd be careful about pressuring down, too far. Flexing is more severe when underinflated. Imo. Do I balance my trailer tires, when I replace them? Yes. Where i go, (local shop) it's included in the price of mount-- spin balance. Does it make a difference, since they're not drive tires, I don't really know. I don't pay for it at Walmart, for the boat trailer. It's extra. And, I have to carry the rims in. Those tires die by age. A tire expert, I am not. I buy the best tires I can find, and watch tread for unusual wear, keep tires inflated,, and call it done. Since 2008, I've never seen unusual wear. (Scalloping, etc.). I've missed much of this thread working on my latest project, a 1927 Singer sewing machine. Remarkably, it still gives me beautiful stitches. And, the head and cover, were built to last. I'm looking at youtube restoration videos. I think, 90 years in the future, someone will be doing youtubes on restoration of my Oliver trailer. Like my 1927 Singer, it is truly built to last. Imo. My personal opinions. Am I an Oliver fanboy/girl? Maybe. I have appreciated the camping experience I've had with my trailer. I do not hesitate to point out improvements that we've made. Or, problems we've encountered, along with solutions. It's what makes the Oliver better, imo. When we work together.