SeaDawg

Belt and suspenders is never an issue.

Good luck, Alberta, and keep us posted on results.

Old school internal sensors failed early, and always. SeeLevel is awesome, imo. We used them in our boat, too, when we upgraded our system, based onbl their reliability in our camper. As everyone has noted, including @Jason Fosterthey still have to rely on sending through the wall. You said you rarely use the black tank. Change that up, and do follow @Mike and Carol practices. DON'T dump that black tank when only a bit full. Do add calgon, or borax mixed with warm water first, and drive it around to the next camp site. (The old school ice in the tank has never worked for us, in used rentals that we've delivered.) If you follow Mike and Carol's procedures, several times, with a mostly full tank ( you can see it, on visual inspection), you have a bad sensor , imo. Contact SeeLevel. Replacing the sensor with a poop pyramid, or unclean tank walls, will yield the same results. So, do try to clean it up first, imo.

I know. I think a number of manufacturers have moved to 12v dc compressor fridges, because of their superb performance and reliability, with the increasing availability and favorable pricing of higher amp hour lifepo4 batteries . We've had dometic and norcold 3 ways. Used webasto/indel and indel b in various trailers and camper vans. Best performance and reliability for us has been any fridge with dc compressor/danfoss/ secop. I do wish there was still an option for those who love 3way. For many camping styles, it's a sturdy, uncomplicated way to go, and totally sips amps, on gas. I used to think it was the best boondock option. Still is, if no solar or genset. 60 ah a day draw is tough to manage boondocking, without solar. Requires recharging with a genset.

In my experience, many systems will have a "safety cutout" somewhere around 10.6 to 12v. Furnace won't work. 3way fridge won't work. To protect the battery. I've actually never seen a battety at 3v. Good on you that you brought it back. We have brought back batteries at 10 and 10.5 v. They were fairly new, which probably helped.

It has been at the same location for a number of years. It conflicts with our plans, most years. The Maine group started a regional rally that has been very well attended, and successful. The rally is a long distance for you. We formed little rallies, back in the day, in Florida an North Carolina. Maybe consider putting something out there?

Smart move. You can still get significant tax credits. We haven't had a power bill in nine years since installing solar. (Just the connection/grid fees). My home system paid for itself a few years ago. I encourage all my friends to install rooftop solar, and many have.

In all fairness, @John Dorrer, the compressor fridges, like home fridges, do need room to breathe. Just not to the outside, as @mountainoliver explained. Just like your home fridge. We installed "rails" or "ledges" epoxied to the cavity sides, and kept the fridge off the floor. Bonus, I have a nice shallow drawer under the fridge, where I keep flat pans, BBQ tools, flashlights, some miscellaneous items. It's open to the base of the fridge. We allowed twice the recommended venting in our install, but if we ever got caught in high temps, I can crack the drawer open a few inches, and double it again. (Not likely for us, as we chase cool weather, but who knows?) Thanks for your thoughts. They actually helped a lot in furthering discussions.

Agm, and fla batteries really do best when not fully discharged to 50 per cent limits, and fully charged daily. I think that's why our solar has given us "extra life" on both the boat and trailer batteries. Lithium is much more forgiving on deep discharge, and only occasionally brought back to 100 per cent. Lithium, in my experience, actually likes hanging out somewhere in the 75 to 80 per cent zone, which is a slow death for lead acid batteries. Different chemistry, different quirks.

I think I'd call the Lakeland truma center, and check on price. You could probably have a fun camping trip, and still be less. If not, I'd check with a local dealer on price to install a traditional 6 gallon (will require changing out the access door, as vents are different), or a different brand instantaneous, if you love it. I think the whole swap was about that price, when we went from a 6 gallon to the Girard instantaneous, though it was years ago. With most 6 gallons, you can run the heater on "free" campground electricity, if you're plugged in. I'm really sorry for your experience, so far. But, I'd encourage you to look into options for service and replacement. Every newbie makes mistakes. Don't be too hard on yourself. You'll not likely do it again.

Eva Cassidy plays a lot in our home. Our Norwegian cousins introduced us tp her, many years ago. On the way to music bingo tonight, we listened to a favorite. Andrea Bocelli and Cristina Aguilera, Somos Novios. (We are lovers, for those who don't speak Spanish.) On the way home, another favorite of mine. Older, but still a fave. Donny Hathaway and the inimitable Roberta Flack. I'll never forget the joy of that concert.

Honestly, there are many times I wish we had skipped the complicated install of the separett, and just put a luggable loo (home depot bucket and a snap seat and cover) in the corner. Easy to clean. No worries. Rarely used,,anyway. And, I'd be $900 ahead, at least . For the extra money, I get a more "attractive " and stable install, no smell. Don't have to dump it evey day. In the barn, we installed a urinal for the guys. Pee bottles + luggable loo would still be many $ ahead.

In our case (indel b truckfridge/non marine version of isotherm) the minimal heat generated is vented to the inside. No outdoor vent specified. No dirt. No mud dauber. No screens necessary. I've used 12v danfoss/secop compressor fridges in three countries. None had an outside vent. A big advantage, for us, on dusty roads, actually. The waste heat, without the flame of a 3way, is quite minimal. Can't even really feel it, with a hand next to the vent grills (interior). Biggest issue with 12v dc compressor fridge is having enough battery power, power management skills, and a way to recharge batteries. 60 ah per day is our average, and with our relatively puny 2 x 12v 105 ah agm group 31s, it does require monitoring, if you're not plugged in all the time. Me? I'm perfectly happy with the tradeoffs I have a smaller freezer, big fridge compartment, interior light, no exterior panel lights at night, and most importantly, a fridge that cools down quickly, and stays consistent in temp. I think we're six years in, and I'm super happy that we made the swap.

A PS.. though I have the separett in my barn, I dislike almost everything about it, except the black tank line connection, and its clean lines and smooth cleanability. Don't even think about it for an rv, imo. Its nothing but a very expensive portapotty.

Is your truma original? Where was your camper this winter? If the truma is like our Girard, you should drain the tiny tank, when you winterize. Also, with truma, I believe you are supposed to remove the filter. I'll leave it to the truma owners to give more info.

@C&MCurrie, nicw install. What material did you use on the upper fridge vent? We lined the old vent with two layers of heavy visquene, and added a sheet of Styrofoam insulation, eventually. (Started with just visquene. ) Did you get the lower vent unit/table from Oliver, or what did you use. Very nice! We always have a small table in that space, anyway. Super nice to have one that just rides on the Ollie! Big kudos!

Changing the sink connection to the black tank, if using the tank for just urine, makes a lot of sense. Many rv bath sinks drain to the black tank. The Swedish separett toilet has a line that can be dedicated to a tank or drain field. I'm kind of surprised that natures head, and airhead haven't already marketed a connection, as most rv toilets are mounted right above the black tank.

A number of people have asked me,,via pm, about dc fridges, in the last month, for conversions. Thought I'd just bring up this old thread, for those thinking about it. I'll add this link, as well.

Funny how we come full circle. Kids today can figure out (and, hack) anything electronic. Back in the day, it was just a few wires .. Thanks for the info. I have aluminum foil always in the trailer. Wrap it up. Simple Faraday cage, very cheap. Reusable.

Thanks for the time travel, and trip down memory lane, @MAX Burner. The early first gen trailers had different fridges. Even today, today some 3ways work better at altitude than others, and no one really knows why. Theory is it can be a problem with the propane mix in the tank. Anyway... Glad yours functions well. Very happy for you. I have had a dc danfoss/secop compressor fridge for 6+ years now, and it doesn't care what altitude, nor (out of ) level I'm on. It just works, flawlessly.

I remember that my 2005 Silverado needed a fuse, connected inline, for the 12v charger to work from my truck, to the Ollie. We had to add the fuse, to gain charging while traveling. It's a long time ago.... After we added solar, it was actually unnecessary.

Roadside insurance is actually pretty inexpensive, and adds peace of mind, for me. Warranties are another story. If you keep vehicles "forever," as we do, a lifetime warranty can be a bargain. I doubt theyre sold anymore. (My Silverado, if human, would be old enough to vote, and buy alcohol, next year. 😀) The warranty on our 2008 Ram has paid for itself several times over. If we had kept it only a few years, not so.

Read the first posts in the thread.

We haven't used good sams for vehicle and trailer, thankfully, but good sams for vehicle has been very good for us. (Coverage without the trailer in tow, several times.) My wish? Not so many renewal and advert notices. I'm looking at coachnet.

I'm on year 7 with our DEKA/east penn AGM 12v batteries. Ryan at Blue Sky gave us the correct setting for our controller. I think the solar panels actually help with the longevity of the batteries. I'm not sure why anyone would advise you to turn off the solar. I try to not run mine below 70 per cent, keeping that last twenty as a safety net. Definitely keep them above 50 per cent. Even our flooded lead acid 6v batteries on the boat have managed over 7 years, with six+ years of solar, even after flattening one battery bank of 6 when we lost our alternator on a 300 mile race. (We added the solar after that incident. We were very lucky to be able to bring them back to life, as they were only a month old then, and not cheap. )