SeaDawg

I believe this is the parts explosion for your awning https://youngfartsrvparts.com/pages/dometic-9500e-power-case-awning-12v-product-id-201-parts-list?_pos=1&_sid=cbd8213ae&_ss=r And, a portion of the parts is below. Rh or lh is as you face the awning (if i remember correctly.. verify!)

Have you tried panther rv? I've found some difficult to find bits there over the years... Did Oliver give you the part number to search with? https://pantherrvproducts.com/search.php?search_query=Awning end cap dometic 9500e&section=product

Hi, Mary, and welcome to the forum. Could you tell us the year, model, and hull # of your trailer, please. Oliver has used two different shade manufacturers, I believe. What's wrong with your shades?

Granite gravel is sharp.

That's a good idea.

I know there are a number of businesses around the country who do the same work. Two friends had theirs repaired on Arkansas. Seems like it's more of a problem for those of us who live in the south. None of my northern friends with 2008 and 2009 ollies have reported issues. (At least two of us had over 100,000 miles of travel before any fogging appeared. )

Lippert may have a longer warranty, so that's a good thought, rivernerd. Lippert bought Hehr's windows, the original manufacturer of the windows for Oliver. Hehr windows were pretty much the gold standard in rv windows. When we took our Oliver to Suncoast designs for resealing the windows, we were surrounded by high end coaches and motorhomes, parked there for the same repairs. (Suncoast stands by their repairs with a long warranty, non-transferable. )

Mountainoliver's cap looks like the Camco version. Available in many places, including Amazon. There's a Valterra version without the big "handle" to aid in removing. Amazon, walmart, camping world. My local Napa has some version, too.

If I could go back in time, I'd never have replaced the original single pane window in the bath of our 2008. Though single pane, the construction was superior to the double pane we had installed several years back. I seriously doubt the "double pane" makes much of a thermal difference as it's so very small, and in the bath, anyway. It's been a pain for the last few years. We've had a few of the big windows fog over the now 15 seasons with our camper. We took it to an rv window repair shop in Hudson, FL, and they removed, repaired, and replaced the windows, for far less than the price of new, and they look and work great. Suncoast Designers. I highly recommend them, for the larger windows. I'll just live with the bath. It's frosted anyway.

I'd agree, we don't get caught up in replacing "everything." But, if others want to, and feel more comfortable, I certanly won't criticize, either. Everyone has their personal comfort zone.. The brass vs plastic is a no big deal for me, either, as plastic fittings are often used in new construction. Just not within 18" of hot water... We've had exactly one fitting fail over 15 seasons, so I personally have no desire to invest the time and considerable money, til necessary. We don't even carry spares, as they're readily available in pretty much every hardware store, and we already know how to use them. But, then, we may apparently live on the edge.

@Dave and Kimberly, my guess is your brother in law had either a $400 uponor expansion tool or a pricey hydraulic crimper. You don't need either to do simple repairs with sharkbite push to connect fittings. We just plumbed our barn last year with sharkbite pex pipe and push to connect fittings. We looked at using crimp connectors instead, but for the few connections necessary, the higher price of push to connect fittings vs. buying a hydraulic crimper, it just didn't make sense. And, we've used sharkbite push to connect fittings for other repairs previously, so knew they were easy to use. We used a few Evopex connectors, but mostly the brass push connectors. The Evopex is interesting, in that a green band shows through spacers to tell you when you've made a tight and proper connection. But, they're not, as Mossey said, removable or reusable. (We only used two, in a location that would be difficult to repair later.) For standard push to connect tools, I'd just add a ruler and a sharpie to the list of tools Mossey gave, but those are likely in your toolkit, anyway. You should make a mark on the cut pipe to the proper depth (15/16" or 24mm) for 1/2 inch pipe, to make sure you've made the proper connection. That's it. I'd recommend getting pex a pipe vs pex b for your spare pipe lengths, as it's a bit more flexible, and more resistant to freeze damage. ( we specified upunor pex a for our new home build, some years ago, sharkbite in the barn. Our lowes and ace hardware both carry sharkbite.) Here's a video showing how to use the sharkbite push to connect fittings. (I'll say that it may take a little more hand strength than it appears to in the video, but no big deal.)

The dc run is truly the weakest link. Very poor efficiency on dc in hot weather. The frozen jugs will help stabilize temps. I used to use them to help cool down the fridge in 90 degree ambient temp, when we had a three way. I'm assuming you're not actually traveling that far for three day trips.

@Kathy Tewart, at the campground, were you running the norcold on gas or electric? Did you run the fridge on dc or gas on the way to the campground ? Gas is usually more efficient and effective. The ice trick was a nice idea. If you're only camping for three days, you might try loading in a frozen gallon jug, 3/4 full of water, as well. I have very little experience camping in 100+ weather. Also, check your thermistor.

So glad to hear it!

Wow! Been a long time since I've seen a "3" in front place. Awesome !

Pete, we bought one of those years ago. It didn't fit in our 2008 bumper, as I recall, and we had to return it. I think the new bumpers have a larger cavity.

@cmdmom286, you have an Elite? What year? Is it the upper alarm thats beeping, or the one under the dinette?

Indeed. I was thinking about trying to handle that ss deck plate, mounted vertically , in the rain, and all I could think about was how much it would hurt if it slipped and fell on my foot, at over two pounds. Ouch. I think I'd stay with plastic or composite. Plenty of available choices. White blends better with the doghouse, especially since the off center installation would bother me, visually, in stainless.

So, probably the upgrade is the Truma Vario furnace, which looks like a nice unit. I called the local Florida office about that furnace when it was introduced here in the US. It has a "sleep mode" which would definitely be more quiet at night, and it's smaller than the Suburban furnace.

That unit has been around awhile as a no-idle truck cooler, at least in other countries. It's only 6800 btu. But, it's 12v, low wattage, so ... runs on battery. Variable speed compressor. Pretty pricey, for 6800 btu. And, unlike rv acs, it's wider than it is long. Would def not work with my sidemount solar panel configuration. I'd say, probably should keep at least the bed area cool, if you put up a curtain on an expansion rod. Lots of van life youtubes out there to watch from the past year. I don't know why dometic doesn't bring in some of their higher capacity variable speed compressor/inverter technology rv products that they sell in the UK, Europe, and Australia. Those, like the ibis 4, are real competition for the truma, and very efficient.

@Jenna, I know you've been looking for awhile. Congrats on finding the trailer just meant for you!

Congratulations! Beautiful rig, and wow, your garage is bound to spark some serious cases of garage envy. Is that frp/dairy board on the garage walls ?

Welcome back, @Sofaman!

@Alberta and Randy, just one other thought, and you've probably already addressed this (or Jason has), do you know if the charge wire from your trailer 7 pin connector is actually connected? Oliver does not connect it today if customers have the lithium option, in an abundance of caution for today's modern alternators. However, it's also possible that your connection was inadvertently omitted, or the connection has been disrupted, over the years. That would mean that you're not charging the trailer batteries while traveling, either, from the truck. Your rooftop solar could mask that problem, as the solar will charge on the highway, if you have any kind of sun.

Our 2008 was originally grounded to the ball. Gave us issues at times. Brakes would flash nc, c (not connected/connected) at times (going over a bump, going downhill, especially.) Wouldn't charge without being hitched to the truck, from the connected pigtail. Solved that with a new ground to the frame. I'd forgotten that, until now. Sorry, it's so very long ago. Yes, I should have reported this to Oliver, but I think we discovered the issue during the production hiatus, and didn't think about it. Any good local horse trailer or utility trailer repair company could probably help you with that issue, if that's truly your issue. (May be easier to get an appointment with a horse trailer repair, than rv repair shop. Just a thought.)