Ray and Susan Huff

I have been wondering how you discover and fix a water leak since much of the plumbing system is enclosed between the two hulls. Following

I can't seem to find it, but there is a photo somewhere on the forum showing the heat ductwork running the length of the trailer. Older models might have had the heat coming directly from the furnace.

I like your use of pipe insulation to support the water lines and protect them from vibration during rough travel. I use the same thing (think small diameter pool noodles) to protect knife blades while stored.

I hope you aren't running a electric space heater in the bathroom while you shower!

I understand that the heating ducts running through the space between the hulls is uninsulated. The idea is that this warms the space enough to prevent interior plumbing freeze damage. The big problem is with the exterior shower and water inlets. I wish there was a simple solution in that respect.

We condition the toilet seal with a lubricant, designed for that purpose, to keep the seal in good condition. https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-Toilet-Lubricant-Conditioner-24-36663/dp/B002NSU0ZW

The low voltage threshold in our camper van, with Progressive Industries on board surge protection and 1000w /Xantrex inverter, was 104v. A real annoyance; perhaps this was the cause of the premature failure of our RV batteries. I understand the reason for low-voltage: to protect the system from a sudden spike in voltage that could occur after a low-voltage event, such as a brown out followed by resurgence of power. Our home has a whole house surge protector between the incoming power line and the meter box. It has never tripped during the oft occurring intermittent power fluctuations when tree debris falls on the incoming power source (I thought that was the job of the transformer). Perhaps this device is more sophisticated and steps up the voltage when power blips off then back on again repeatedly? I can see where a GFI outlet could be problematic: we have one in our kitchen that tests fine for GFI and ground, but a hand mixer trips it immediately. One thing we did notice, with the PI surge protector was: if we plugged the van into a poorly grounded outlet or with an electrical cord that had no ground wire, the device would cut power, sending a GF error code (E4?), as it should. After remedying the situation, it would take several attempts to connect power with a good outlet and grounded power cord, before the power would stay on; almost like it took a while to clear the error code. I would be curious to see how the OP's (RK) trailer reacts when plugged in to generator power.

You will love the heads up display, especially if it shows turn by turn navigation. What color?

Could there have been an additional load on the troublesome circuit some where else? Probably not the same thing, but occasionally (not all the time), when our camper van was plugged into 15 or 20 amp shore power, the onboard surge protector would shut power off to the van, giving a ground fault error. One plug was suspect, but the one at our house tested fine. It seems that all it took was to unplug and plug the shore power back in. Almost like the error code needed a few tries to clear. It was always a mystery. The good thing is, if you have onboard surge protection, your RV is protected from things such as power under/over voltage, ground faults, and reverse polarity - at least that's the assumption.

Found the problem with the maunals: the links are backwards. If you want the manual for the XC Pro 2000/3000w inverter, use the XC 2000 link.

Western Oregon does have its share of ticks, rattle snakes, and poison oak. On the other hand, Oregon has a lot of great boondocking sites.

I don't know the answer to your question regarding the multimeter; I'm pretty sure our electrician used one when testing one of our GFCI plugs. I will say the receptacle tester is compact and easily stored in a small tool box. We carry a bigger tool box for serious tools and a small tackle box for plug in adapters and other small tools.

I'd wager you will not find another battery compartment as well finished as Oliver's 👍

Test drive different makes/models. This won't tell you how they tow but will give you an idea of how 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, 1-ton, 2WD, 4WD, long bed, short bed, etc rides compare.

Get one of these, if you don't already have one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Receptacle-Tester-RT210/206517824

Nearer the coast would give you more variety. We live in SW Oregon which is great, but mountains have us hemmed in during Winter. Oregon does have most everything: beaches, forests, mountains, deserts, snow, rivers, fishing, hunting, skiing, boating. However, I think Idaho might be a good "jumping off" place; my preference is less populated areas.

I agree . . . . . our 2013 F-350 has a 35 gal tank. This translates to a range of 450 -650 miles, depending on driving factors (weather conditions, hills, towing, etc).

I'm assuming the drawer rails are sturdy enough to support additional weight.

I don't know about the Dodge/Chevy/GMC diesels, but our F-350 6.7l Powerstroke is extremely quiet, if that matters. If you order it with the tow package, it has hill descend mode, and possibly a more appropriate gear ratio for towing. Ours also came with the 200 amp HD alternator; not sure if that was part of the tow package.

And the Touareg is AWD

My apologies! Now I see why I was confused . . . . Oliver has the links backwards . . . . . the link highlighted says it is for the XC 2000w inverter but it brings up the 2000/3000w manual; likewise, the XC Pro 3000 link goes to the 1000/2000w manual. I hope they don't install the inverters reversed lol There is also a link for a PD charger manual; I assume this is for installations without the inverter option.

Oliver reserved a site for us at "David Crocket SP" the night after delivery. I called the park and reserved an additional night which they added to Oliver's reservation. Had to pay up front, but they offer a Senior Rate - less than $20/night, including tax.

The differences I can see by comparing the manuals: Wattage Pro model is bluetooth capable. Pro has more custom setting options I hope to understand the electrical system better after our walk-through. I'm going to ask a lot of questions. Wish I could take my "electronic genius grandson" along 😎

Thanks for the share. This is not the manual linked to in the Oliver University. I followed the link for the 3000w inverter and I got the owner's guide for the Freedom XC 1000/2000w, not the Pro. Would you mind sharing the PDF? Thanks

Hmmm . . . . I didn't think about Huntsville being close to Lawrenceburg. We'll be spending a couple of nights at Davy Crockett after picking up our Elite II in December. Our boys went to Space Camp in Huntsville in the early 92s. They had a blast (pun intended!) Google Maps says it's about 65 mi from DCSP to Huntsville. Don't know if we'd make the drive, though since it's away from the direction we'll be heading home (to Oregon). Our adventure to Hohenwald won't be quite as much fun during these pandemic times.