Ronbrink

The auto changeover (dual) regulators do have issues and many choose not to rely on them and thus, would rather resort to turning only one tank on at a time. Adding a ‘T’ would suffice for the ‘one tank on at a time’ users, but would still require a (single) regulator. Regardless and to your point, carrying a spare could ‘save the day’ (think camping trip!) in the event of a regulator failure due to wear or a malfunction. Your mention to use a 90° street elbow is golden, better fitment with less bends in the hoses!

Many have put a manual valve between the dump outlet and the sewer hose as a precaution in the event of a much dreaded black tank leak by the factory installed valve(s). I had one for a while prior to installing the Drain Master, at which point it was then unnecessary being that system has a builtin valve at its terminus. Others, like yourself, go with the electric valves for convenience and much the same reason.

How can one possibly enjoy the experience in only 10 minutes max?

@rich.dev, are those cinder blocks concrete or a lighter-weight composite you’re hauling around?

You can buy an end cap with a garden hose connection, but it is centered. As a cost savings measure and better drainage, I drilled a hole at the bottom of the one that came with the DM system and fitted it with brass adapters. I can use this smaller silicone hose to drain gray water as needed, and it serves as a ‘sight tube’ to indicate a valve (black or gray) leak; the tube has a terminal valve.

Me either!

Your Oliver may have been equipped with a macerator, but more likely an electric valve, in the past and the wires since abandoned. Whether the power is found to be direct or switched, it could seemingly be used for a light if so desired. The buckle/latch is more commonly referred to as a camlock coupler and looks exactly like the Drain Master coupler on the sewer hose system I installed on my OLEll. Drain Master also has a 12VDC Pro-Series Electronic Valve, so it is likely the previous owner kept the Drain Master setup and left you with the camlock coupler waste hose terminal and valve wiring harness. As to “another identical buckle/latch on the other side”, that’s a mystery! I can leave the sewer hose attached, but a tight fit with the bumper closed. Instead I leave a cap fitted with a smaller hose. Here are some pics of my setup:

This is a thing all Oliver owners using generators deal with, no supplied AC for anything without one!

There is a product you may want to look at to maybe get some design ideas in a spacer while trying to improve airflow. The RV A/C Silencer is primarily for noise reduction and incorporates strategic placement of foam, which also helps in better airflow.

As I recall, many complain about the exact same issue with the Dometic Penguin ll.

There have been a couple of occasions when trying to run on my smaller generator or 15A service that the inverter’s charger would also kick on and the a/c would shutdown shortly thereafter due to a power exceedance. You may try reducing the charger output or turning the inverter/charger off completely. Your EU2000 should run the TOSOT with a soft start if there are no other power demands. You could also charge the batts to 100% SOC with the EU before attempting to operate the a/c. Food for thought!

I’m one of those where sound level matters, being a lite sleeper! Before installing a soft start on the DPll, I was constantly awakened with each load thud of the compressor cycling. The soft start made a huge difference regarding that issue, but the noisy fan was still an extreme annoyance. While reorganizing a storage bin recently I found these lurking in the shadows, made the hair on my neck stand up! Hard to believe I didn’t think to purge them from the Oliver a long time ago; oh well …… out of sight, out of mind.

One should not have to pay for their advertising, at least not that much!

Excellent points! I find the installed screen door crossbar most useful when opening and closing the combined door assembly; ease in pushing open from within rather than having hand on the actual door handle, and ease in closing for the same reason. It is definitely not designed for weight-bearing, but rather balance assist upon egress and ingress. On the other hand the installed closet door bar is solidly mounted, very sturdy, within easy reach and thus, provides a second grab bar, especially when entering. Previously I would reach out to the bath door frame and/or the counter edge at the microwave for that extra pull up and into. My wife however, being shorter and weaker always struggled upon entry and now, we both find this a viable solution for an easier and safer entry. When positioning the closet door grab bar, I made certain she approved the height more to her benefit than mine; she was elated with the outcome, especially since she has a bad shoulder. Happy wife ……..!

I should mention that the two bars were staggered to enable the closet door to be opened as much as possible and positioned as to not interfere with the closet door latch. Here’a a couple of pics:

That is correct, only DC control wires to the furnace were used to operate it. I did not like the standard Suburban mechanical thermostat supplied with my Atmos from SDG. I tend to forego cheap and easy over a better option, but that’s just me. Nice garage, you got this!

Shortly after getting our 2020 OLEll I had trouble with the Dometic thermostat, one of the wire connector setscrews had been overtightened during assembly and the terminal block was cracked. Oliver sent a replacement, which was packaged along with another control box. I sold my Dometic with the original control box and installed the extra control box in the Atmos using the stock DC wiring harness. In my model year Oliver started installing the 11K Dometic Penguin ll, your’s is likely the 13.5K and may not have the same wiring/control setup. Regardless, the control box is readily available at etrailer.com and comes with a wiring harness which could easily adapt to your install. If you need more time to decide, cut the DC wires on the a/c side of the crimp connectors (for future reference), bundle them in the black wiring loom and complete your a/c install. You can then use the heat pump until determining how best to get the Suburban furnace back online. That’s exactly what I did!

Right that! I opted for the skimpy two-piece so as not to be totally naked and unnecessarily “bothered”!

My 2020 wasn’t ordered totally naked, I did opt for the rear-side label and hull number in a very subtle metallic silver for an additional $25 charge; at the time all decals were standard.

Certainly a viable solution that a few Houghton owners have pursued with great success! However, concerns of voiding the unit’s warranty with wiring modifications to the fan and relay installation was likely a deterrent for many. Thanks for sharing and being “part of the Oliver Universe”, much appreciated!

I have reached out to the entire Oliver Universe, “surely we are not alone”!

Add TOSOT to the list, SDG and some Leisure Travel Van owners routinely install them with the Cielo.

‘Earth to Oliver owners’, anyone else out there willing to share their experience testimonials regarding the Cielo? Alleviate humidity spikes for the good of all mankind!

In keeping with my last post in the Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Home Install thread (“I think it’s worth mentioning that the black backing plate added to facilitate the use of 3M Dual Lock for wall mounting is not a necessity. As installed, the Cielo can easily be mounted to the wall with supplied screws in conventional manner. I only resorted to the Dual Lock mount initially to enable easy movement when finding the best placement spot for the device, and may eventually remove it for a more streamlined mount and appearance. Regardless, I can now switch the Cielo on for use or off when the a/c’s remote is the preferred method of control. At this point in time, I will attempt to only post comments regarding the Dreiha Atmos 4.4 on this thread and further comments pertaining to the Cielo on the Cielo Breez Max thread.”) I present the following: I went ahead and removed the black backing plate for reasons mentioned above and here’s the final outcome: UPDATED INFO: When it comes time to turn off the power to shutdown the Cielo’s control of the a/c, it is imperative to either wait until the a/c has cycled totally off in the programmed setting being used then turn off the switch; or if the a/c is still running first touch the power button on the Cielo to shut it down then turn off the switch. Otherwise, the a/c will continue to run based on my limited experience. If by chance the switch is turned off while the a/c is still running, to rectify simply turn the switch back on then follow the aforementioned either/or. Viola!

Definitely not strong enough to do pull ups! I first considered thru-bolts, but instead decided the heaviest and longest coarse thread SS screws would suffice. The door is thicker on the hinge side where 3/4” screws were used, 5/8” screws on the other side. Most of the force is lateral rather than vertical, and the screws are tightly set in the door’s outer fiberglass shell. Given the applied force, I have no concerns whatsoever! However, if ever the need for better reinforcement then said bolts will be used.