Try2Relax

Table 7 on page 23 Trojan guide Sorry, I would have attached but my new browser is finicky.

Dave, you mentioned Lifeline batteries, those are the ONLY AGM batteries that can be equalized, because of how they make them. If you replaced the Trojans with Lifelines then you would be okay, but otherwise never equalize.

The top photo is everything in place, the second photo is everything that I store in there, plus the hose end caps you can't see, there's still some room too. If you look you'll see the elbow. That the hose connected and that 90° elbow stay connected, this way I have more flexibility if the valve leaked beforehand. I think the always attached hose is 15 feet and the other is their 10 foot extension, so 25 feet total. You can also see the end flares which allow all the connectors to move in and out of the storage area. Edit - don't know what happened to the first photo when I clicked submit, oh well.

Same here, put a clear 45° elbow and attached 1 section of Rhino, then I compress and store another section and I took one of those angled bridge supports divided it in half and both halves got in there too. There is enough room to work the Rhino connector so I would think there should be enough to get that camlock fitting on and clamped (I wouldn't undo it) and store it in there. If you noticed the ends of the opening are widened to allow the larger fittings to be pushed in and then they won't just slide out anywhere. They make the whole thing themselves, so if you want to engineer the bottom plate to be open in that area they would probably work with you on it.

Hey Muppy, If I might ask, what kind of rate did you get, from where to home? Is that on a flatbed or towed behind?

Such a bummer I can't make, be sure to take lots of pictures of all that's going on. Sounds like it should be a great event. Congratulations Hardrock for setting up, promoting and coordinating what seems like the first really major display of the OTT family.

The slow blow on the older units are not resettable, they are also with their respective jack and are inline fuses. According to the drawing they would be under the street side bed, again no bus bar there on the older ones, that's where are my solar controller is. The nice part to that setup would be that it one is blown, at least you can just swap it out with one of the others close by to make it easier.

I'll second Overland's recommendation, I bought it for the same reason, biking, and have found that I use it for everything. It is USB rechargable or you can use a battery pack. The best feature about it is it auto adjusts it's brightness, so when in close quarters or looking directly at the Oliver it won't blind you without having to touch it.

And that right there is why I'm always happy to show my trailer and never hesitate recommending the Oliver Company.

Blue sky, in California, can be extremely helpful, the tech called me on his way off work and trouble shot with me for over an hour while he drove home, before we quit for the night. I ended up finding the problem myself when I returned home, too much to deal with on the road, changed to a powered site to not worry about it. He did call me back the next day to see how it went. My problem was the main neutral connection from the DC fuse panel had vibrated loose and was causing a crazy draw. My first recommendation is call them. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Reed, I know your a Mercedes guy, but maybe you want to look at one of these, maybe they make a white one. Otherwise, >I'd have to think they might they might be right up John's alley. Edit- almost forgot Overland wanted an SUV and not a pickup....

Stay safe out there Bob, have a good trip. Can't wait to see the pictures..

Kayrae51, I was going to welcome you to the forum but I see you've been around here almost as long as Mountainborn. So.. welcome to your first posting, good luck with becoming an owner, I can't wait to see pictures of the trailer and graphics you mentioned..

End result looks really good. The grooves for the king bed table mount/bed are still under the twin bed fiberglass extensions, for those not wanting to cut up the rails.

There's​ a good post on AirForum LINK, it's what got me off my ass to get the spot trace finally.

Geez, if your gonna show stuff like that you gotta put a link on where to get it. Looks good, are they dimmable?

The biggest problem with any single point bike system is that there is just too much mass to balance on the single point, I've found that by simply tying off the tires, to the ends of the bumper, creating a three point brace, spreads out the support enough to control it. With the Oliver's storage area you can also strap from a high point, on the bikes, to somewhere towards the front of the structure, to control front to back high point sway also.

I'm not sure about the newer trailers but the double digit ones each jack is on its own 30A fuse, so you may need to plan design a multi-relay single control for all circuits instead.

So I was out in the trailer today and looked at the windows, that's why I remembered them not being attached, they don't have those stops, the heavy rubber track, on the ends, is thicker so it is what stops the window

I know when I was there last summer they mentioned changing windows, but I'm not sure if it was all of them or just the escape window. I only mention it, because while none of mine are attached they all open and close very smoothly and easily. Last summer when I cleaned I removed all the windows and rubber/plastic tracks, that red desert sand is nasty...

Mine aren't connected. Why do you believe they should be?

The one I've used for years, little better for storage, uses #4 also. GSI Coffee EDIT - Hadn't noticed earlier, yup that's same grinder I have, works great.

Here is some reading that might help. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/bulldog-security-lock-recommendations/

Reed, it's been a long time since I built kitchens, but that clip looks installed backwards (left and right are swapped) you should be able to squeeze the orange clip towards the outer edge of the drawer. And the metal should be up against the side wood. Edit - Sorry, just made the picture bigger and can see that screws aren't actually attached.

I will add, that whereas I primarily use my phone for access, the update to the quick links on the right is much appreciated. Now that it compresses when opening a topic and goes large on the main pages makes navigating and posting much easier. Thanks