Try2Relax

So if the Zamp controller only shows the charge voltage, does the SeaLevel II possibly show the battery voltage? Your meter on the battery terminals would still reflect the incoming charge from the panels as it would be higher.

Welcome to the family! Like you we had never owned an RV before. My first recommendation is take the process slowly. The ONLY thing you NEED to start is a good tow vehicle, safe connection setup and a well balanced​ trailer. It is TOO easy to spend too much and buy more stuff than you'll need. Read all the boards (airforums, fiberglassrv and this one) so many people have been there and done that and you can learn so much from just reading through all the pros and cons arguments for just about everything out there. Just because you have more room than a tent now doesn't mean you have to fill it with things you'll never use, because everyone else thinks you should have something. Travel your way home and then around and get a feel for what you might need. You ask about a ladder, I do have the telesteps and it works great, if you go this road be very wary of the cheap knock offs. But as was also mentioned, wait to see if you really need one for the road. How many times will you really need to be up there? You can easily pull the Tundra up next to the trailer and stand on the rail or the tail gate, can't quite reach a $15 three step on the tail gate would work. As well built as they are, just remember, don't climb on the roof, they aren't made for it. Otherwise, SUCTION CUPS rule in an Ollie.

Congratulations, on finally being/feeling retired, I'm sure it is a well deserved time. I can't wait for when the "journey" is the trip, we're still a long way off.

The date on that photo is 2008. The mounts on Hull 69 are mounted flat on the roof, not on the curve as shown. All that said, it would be a simple mod to tilt them, a straight aluminum bar with holes on either end would do it.

Just noticed this at the bottom of my screen I would like to give a warm welcome to our "newest" member - Buzzy

Dave, the information Andersen provided would be correct, both aspects of it. Placing the leveler on the downhill side of the tire would be more susceptible to a "slide out" or "buckling", as you pull the trailer up onto it you would actually be pulling it off the inside of the AL, the distance between the wheels is fixed and by lifting the trailer the wheel actually comes up the hill, so you would be tipping the AL uphill, whereas putting it on the uphill side would cause it to dig into it. Then placing the mating chock under the downhill side solidifies the whole thing. Front to back is still leveled the same afterwards. Yes, I would use the power stabilizers to add to the base support too. This is where I like elongated blocks as opposed to squares, so I can place the long side in the direction of tip.

I agree black frames might be a good contrast look. As for the shade color, on the sunniest day an afternoon nap is easily accomplished with the off white currently installed, when you close all the night shades it is DARK in the trailer. Well, except for the MaxxAir, need a little draw shade for that too.

Yes, the trailer is easily capable of lifting all tires off the ground with the jacks needed for any repair. No you would not need to lift the whole thing just to change a tire, but brakes and wheel bearings, yes. The trailer is fine lifted, Oliver simply recommends not leaving it like that for extended periods of time, what that equals - you would have to ask. Here is how it looked to replace the EZ Flex out and grease the bearings, it sat like this for two days, no problem, while I waited for inner seals to come in from Amazon (never did it before, didn't know) I didn't go in the trailer while like this, so nothing to report.

Do you level the jack contact surface, before putting pressure on it? Example, last year I was in such a sloped spot that I side stacked my 6x6 blocks and put about 2-3 inches of my wheel chalk under one end to get the contact surface level before jacking. The setup of the Oliver system is rigid and 90° angles, class A jacks tend to have a floating head, as such the jack contact surface should be level to the trailer frame when done. As Steve mentioned above, the frame/mount will be under excessive twisting stress if forced to lift and support the weight on an outward angle.

Yup, I was gonna ask if you were from the Phillipsburg or Carney Point area. Took a look at your photos, you are pretty handy at the mods, I think you might get bored with an Oliver and the lack of rework necessary. The nice part is that so much can be accomplished with suction cups.

My plan when we start to actually travels with the cats us to remove the fire extinguisher from the closet door and use part of that floor for the box. Oliver has installed a drawer in that area before I believe. If asked I'm sure they would do an opening in the door up real nice and they could also install a lower shelf in the closet, thus basically raising the floor and keeping the rest of the closet separate from the box area.

Welcome Fred, that's pretty funny, I have never heard anyone refer to West New Jersey. I lived in South Jersey for a few years. It wasn't me either, but I sure wish it was, that would've meant I was in much warmer weather. I have to agree, that once you've done the research, the aren't really too many choices in travel trailers, if you want to do it right. Good luck with the process, if you come up with any questions just let us know.

I've lifted one side enough to pull the tire off, so more than a 1/2", without issue. There must be more to it than the overview provided. At the same time, just the back tire coming off the ground a half inch seems odd. With all that, we are taking about aluminum and not steel, and no matter how well they are welded and built it will always have more flexibility than steel.

Welcome to the family Marc, another owner, who is on hiatus, has a Camp Chef Pro 60 and spoke very highly of it, they have quite a few accessories and you can even turn it into a pizza oven.

Congratulations Bill and welcome. Was that the unit for sale at Holiday World in Alvarado?

Reed, you mention the older style tongue setup that extended and being disappointed that you couldn't do that, by ordering that basket I'm pretty sure you did. Looking at your hitched picture, there is NO way I have that much distance from my front jack to the bulldog, so basically you got the extension without the ability to retract it. I don't know if mine would even be able to extend that long, I think it's only 6 inches. As for how the MB sits, when you look at the fact that it is all hitch weight, without WDH my 1/2 ton sags more. HEY OVERLAND - if your unsure about the whole pickup truck thing, maybe you should look into a Porsche Cayenne S Turbo I've read good reviews towing over 6500lbs in the boat world.

Yes, it's a real Temper-Pedic, and it's really custom (by me) made the template out of cardboard, the used a $10 electric bread knife to cut up a real Temper-Pedic mattress. I've never found quality in any other brand. You know, measure twice - cut once, except in this case, measure 5 times, double check it again and then slowly cut (questioning it the whole time). Cause I am not buying another one if I screw up. The nice part is you can get both twins from a queen mattress, if your perfect or start with a king for some wiggle room. Another thing you can do is get the Temper-Pedic 3" topper, it's the same 5lb main foam just without the supporting lower densities below it and use it on top of whatever you have. These can be found fairly reasonably at Bed Bath and Beyond (we get 20% off coupons in the mail all the time)

Here you go. The radius is not that great, so a 60" wide mattress shouldn't even touch the curve

Welcome Stuart, I'll post you some exact measurements tomorrow, unless someone already has them, regarding the space available. The nice part to never planning on switching it out is the ability to get and cut (the radius) in a high end foam mattress, I've done it with a Temper-Pedic for the twin and it is definitely more comfortable than the cushions.

John, shhhh.. don't tell anyone. Park HEREScrew it, trying to get the link to work is painful, copy paste if you have to. http://Dropped Pin https://goo.gl/maps/gcHtmz2kd2o

HighBeam, if you are still referring to the ML350, as has been stated, it is sufficiently capable of safely towing an Elite II. Curb weight is just over 5000lbs, towing capacity is 7200lbs, 240hp and 455ft/lbs of torque. They have more power and room for safety within their specifications than many towing with a 1/2 ton pickup. While it may not be your type of tow vehicle, and we will all welcome criticism and caution when it is in regard to safety, please do not post just to abuse another in regard to their choice of tow vehicle because you don't like the way it looks. We are a small family, Oliver owners, and choose to keep our forums friendly, civil and informative. If your desire is to be inflammatory and non constructive there are plenty of other places to post.

Thanks. Wow 10.5" really limits your choices. It really sounds like a nice setup and the nice thing is the Oliver is so well behaved even by itself.

Thanks for the photos. I will definitely be interested in the final product. Please share once you have more info. On a side note - what's up with the super duper looking shore power connection? Looks a little beefier than normal.

Reed, I'm curious as to why you find that the Andersen wouldn't fit on the MB? Is it a 2" coupler, looking at your picture it looks like you need a rise and they have an up to 4" and an up to 8" model.

Steve, c'mon you had a test fitting... There must be a picture or two... Anymore details? Materials, padding etc.. Thanks