dewdev

I agree with Rivernerd. I bought a 30A female to 15 amp male adaptor. Have not used it in 3 years but good to have it and not need it. I also bought a 30 foot RV 30 amp cord so I can extend the Oliver provided cord for long distance to the power pedestal. You will need a adaptor in that case to plug both cords together. I use the extra cord at home because the distance from my OTT to the 30 amp plug at the house is a little longer than the Oliver provide cord will reach. Have not needed it yet at a campground but I take it camping just in case I need it.

In comparision to other RV trailers I saw at the show and their (high) cost, the $100K for an Oliver is not that concerning to me. Glad I bought my Olllie 3 years ago though.

Steph and Dud B If the sales person you talked to was a young guy (maybe 25-30 yo), that would be Tim's son, Nick. Tim and Nick are the sales people at Tim's RV, the new Massachusetts Oliver sales/service center.

Hopefull the added insulation board is not a problem in keeping the area under the sink warm enough so the piping does not freeze.

I do not have the type of Xantrex inverter/charger you have so I am not an expert. But what I have read on this Forum for quite awhile now is that it looks to me like you need to change the charger current setting. Tom and Doreen and rich.dev in the posts above explains what setting to change. if you have cell phone service where you are, I would download the app now and try changing the charger current setting as they suggest. Then try the generator again with the EMS turned on. Hopefully that will work. Do NOT forget to put the setting back to here it was when you are hooked up to shore power. Write down the existing setting before changing it so you do not forget the initial setting. If all else false, contat Xantrex (or Oliver) on Monday. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Yes to both. IMO the water pressure regulator is important as you never know what water pressure is going to be at a campground.

I keep the Ollie outside in the winter here in Maine and the solar panels get sun most of the day (when the sun is out). The batteries are almost always at 100%. or close to it. If we get more than 3" of snow, I brush off the snow so the panels are always providing peak power. It seems that even with 3" of snow or ice on the panels, they are still providing some energy. When the sun is out, the panels warm up enough to melt the snow on the panels if it is not to deep on the panels. Even on cloudy days the panels are providing a small amount energy. Over the last 3 years of ownership, I have been very impressed with the solar panels on my Ollie. So much so that I am adding solar panels to the roof of my home.

Being way up north, I always drain the Truma Water Heater, then shut of the valve to the Truma and add the RV antifreeze to the system. I use 2 gallons of antifreeze (have a compost toilet so do not add anything to the black tank) and use the procedure that Oliver University teaches us on how to winterize the system. The winterizing procedure only takes a hour or so and is the best insurance you can buy.

Scott Oliver was at the Boston show, along with the locale dealer, Tim of Tim's RV. It was a great show and finding parking in Boston was not bad. Only had to park one short block away from the center. Tim will be at the Springfield RV show, but I do not know who else.

Curious - If the Norcold is working fine, why did you replace it? i.e. What were the extra benefits that the Isotherm provided over the Norcold?

Craig: Did you have to use new batttery cables when you did your upgrade or could you use use what was existing?

Did you need to remove the door to get the old Dometic out of the trailer and to get the Nova Kool in? Did the new Nova Kool require the upper and lower vents on the OTT?

Today I added two 4" vents in the closet (one low and one high) in the same locations that OTT is installing in the newer Olivers. Additionally, I added a 3" return air vent in the bathroom that vents into the underside of the forward dinette seat like OTT is now installing. I also added one 4" return air vent like Rivernerd recommended on the hall side of the forward dinette seat. I will be testing the heating system with these new vents later in the early spring, The real reason that I am adding to the post is becasue I wanted to share where I purchased these vents. I looked on Amazon for 4" vents, like some have suggested, to get a price. I then called OTT and got a price for their vents. The price that OTT is charging is substanitally less than Amazon's price. I purchased from OTT 3-4" vents and 1-3" vent for about the same cost as Amazon was charging for one 4" vent. IMO, for those with older Oliver's, that want to added return air vents, I recommend to purchase them from OTT and save youself some money. Plus my new vents now match what OTT is now installing.

Hay Kirk: A couple pictures of your 2018 RAM 3500 conversion would be appreciated.

Steve: I was referring to the return vents that OTT is now installing in the newer Ollie's. Any idea what the bathroom return air vent is on the wall between the bathroom and the dinette.

Nan: Did you make your appointment in Georgia at Southland RV? They must have not found the leak. Can you take it to Oliver Service Department in TN?

Mike at Oliver parts told me that they only have 4" and 3" diameter vents. The return vent in the bathroom must be 3". Did you measure yours? Does that sound correct?

That is unlikley. More likely it is getting in at the lighted "Oliver" plaque on the back of the Oliver. Check the caulking around this plaque for any breaks in the seal.

My RV Lock makes a funny extra (music type) sound when the batteries are low and then still makes the normal (music) sound during unlocking or when the RV Lock is locking. This has been like that for about a month now while the trailer is waiting for spring. Normally, when the batteries are good, I hear a sound with each depression of the 4 password numbers. When the RV Lock accepts the password, it make a music sound during unlocking as well as when locking. So the RV Lock gives plenty of advance notice that the batteries need to be replaced. I really like the RV Lock myself. I keep the key forb and key in my pocket or in the TV. It is nice to just come back from a hike and put in the code and unlock the door without finding a key. I would not be concerned with upgrading to a RV Lock as you can always use the actual key just like on a regular lock.

Thanks MAX Burner. What are you referring to when you say "Shackle Nuts"?

Max Burner is correct. I replaced mine this fall (it had a 2017 mfg date on it) before it went bad. Followed the wires back toward the source and found one red and 1 black wire. I also found a fuse holder in the line. I added a switch in case of futher alarms/problems, but the fuse could be pulled instead of adding a switch.

I have seen on this forum discussions for torque setting for the Wheel Nuts (90-100 ft-lbs) and the Leveling Jack flange bolt nuts (43 ft-lbs). Are there other fasterners on the Ollie's that we should be checking torque and what setting should they be?

Dennis and Melissa The Anderson link you provided seem a lot of $$$. You really do need to get the blocks to go under the electric jacks so the jacks are not out really long. As topgun2 said you can cut some 2x6 wood for using to go under the wheels to level the trailer when on camp sites that are not level. You will also want to get some wheel chocks. I guess if the $$$ do not bother you then your suggested link items gives you all the items you would need. I have the Proven Lock system to lock up the bull-dog hitch. I recommend it. It cost a little more than what you are proposing but is far more secure. Also, I did get the Oliver shower curtain. Their curtain not only keeps the compost toilet area dry but it can also extend to in front of the door so you can leave the bathroom door open during a shower. I like OTT shower curtain a lot and IMO works better than anything that I could have installed myself. What battery (or solar) package did you decide on? Happy camping. Time will go by fast now that you have ordered.

The newer Oliver TT have a method to lock the drawers by pushing them in tight to the cabinet. . Must be some type of locking mechanism. Can these locking devices be added to the older trailer drawers?

The Oliver Elite and Oliver Elite II trailers are being shown at the Boston RV Camping show, for the first time, this weekend at the Boston Convention Center. There was a lot of Ollie interest by people at the show. Scott Oliver was at the event along with the Tim of Tim's RV the Massachusetts sales dealer.