MAX Burner

These Alcan's are heavy duty for sure!

Well we got off to a rather late start - forgot I had a 9am PT session for the rotator cuff repair from a few months back. Anyhow, didn't get the shop opened until 1030-ish. Thinking about JD's old-school suggestion using clay - which seems brilliant, I came up with an alternative. Short of buying an accelerometer from Amazon and obtaining objective data of the suspension system - mounting my GoPro to the undercarriage amidship seemed to be a logical path forward costing $0. We do "cheap" and "free" like champions. So, instead of having D drive around the neighborhood with me in the back playing the "rock and roll rider" - went ahead and captured GoPro video of the curb-side forward wheel assembly while trying to hit every pothole in the area. The thought process is that traveling over the same route at the same speed with the 4-pack springs first, then the 5-pack after the install might show a different deflection of the suspension.... Not 100% objective but comparative for sure. Just need to upload two comparative vids of the before and after... Started off by degreasing and painting the new (one-use) U-bolts, nuts, and washers with a healthy coat of RustOleum to keep things tidy underneath. For the most part, this is a straight forward plug-and-play R&R effort. The new springs are several pounds heavier and definitely a bit higher drop than the Chinese-made 4-packs: So, the street-side springs are successfully replaced with the new 5-packs... The curb-side springs go in tomorrow - then we'll follow-up with a short before/after GoPro ride vid. ...but now, its time for a cold one! Cheers, ALL!

Like mentioned earlier, it looks like the door could have been caught by a wind gust judging by the crack being nearer to the hinges. Short of replacing the inner skin (which is totally doable, we've done one in a previous SOB), suggest finding both ends of the crack (under the window moulding and along hinge line) and "stop drilling" a 1/8" hole there. This process will stop the crack from getting longer. Its a foam-core door, so there shouldn't be any "draft" ambient air penetrating the inside crack from outside. We've got one a couple inches under our window moulding that runs horizontally for about 10". We "stopped drilled" the crack on @ScubaRx's suggestion after he saw it in Quartzsite last JAN. Good luck, cool maintenance/repair opportunity for you, @Steve-Gwenne - let us know how it turns out! Cheers!

Been to the Silver Bean many times, got the SS coffee mug to prove it, HA! Great Joe there, for sure. This was in '18 while on our annual "Spine of the Rockies" ride going through Cortez, CO:

@ScubaRx - FYI: spent a night on Sentinel Dome back in the day after slogging up from Badger Pass on cross country skis, ah, the times of a mis-spent youth! The next morning had the most beautiful sunrise peaking over Half Dome to the east - never will forget that one... OBTW: Frankly, I'm liking your version of the tree better than AA's, anyway.

Our Dog House cap was getting a bit "gritty" and difficult to thread - so we swapped it with one of the "fresh" caps in the overheads, cleaned the threads on the DH side then lubed the cap w/a touch of Vaseline and attached the stainless steel lanyard (so as not to leave it adrift). All good again!

Just FYI: Our Alcan springs arrived this afternoon - just from observation, definitely a big difference in quality between the Chinese-made Dexters and these new ones. Measured eye-to-eye dimension to verify 25.25" across the board w/3" drop - all good there. Planning to have D drive Casablanca around some of the rather "rutty" roads in the neighborhood with me in the back to (hopefully) get a feel for the "before and after" install ride inside. Spring R&R will begin in the AM - we'll for sure keep y'all posted on the effort... Cheers!

The Airstream Mothership hired her many decades ago...

Wouldn't be surprised if that changes as more and more Truma appliances migrate to the RV market... right?

HA! Beat me to it! Excellent suggestion.

Upgrade to the MicroAir T-stat - gives a nice BIG readout of set temp and current inside temp. If other upgrades are on your radar screen, such as a Victron SmartShunt, it's app will give a reading of the compartment it is mounted in, which is convenient to know in 18F climes. Concur 100% w/ @topgun2 & @Mike and Carol's solution sets... In addition, you might consider a Bluetooth unit like this: ...that can be mounted, say in the "dog house" near the LPG bottles for OAT, and another in an identified "coldest" compartment (ie: basement/garage, under vanity sink, near water pump, etc.). The BT app is easy to use capturing historical data for future planning.... Tons of options - just have fun making you own mods and upgrades. It might become somewhat addicting. Cheers!

Hey, Mossey - where are the playing cards attached to the forks with wooden clothes pins? HA!

Well written, GJ! Great advice... And OBTW, @jd1923 - John gets FULL credit for the cool DC-to-DC set-up in Casablanca. We communicated directly last year for several months (takes that long to get my "pea-brain" around the concept!) before coordinating the install - of which, about 60 - 70% of the effort is on the TV! The effort on the "OTT side" is straight forward if one chooses to mount the charger in the trailer - (otherwise, mounting the unit in the TV would be 80% effort on TV/20% on the Oliver, IMO). There advantages either way depending on a given camper's needs... PS: As GJ and I've mentioned in earlier threads - all of the necessary "cable-making" tools are available here for owners that want specific custom cable diameters, lengths, and lug configurations... Bottom line, the cardboard sign at the I-25 intersection could read, "Will Make Cable for Beer."

Solid copy. RT!

As discussed in many threads on these forums, individual camping style/needs dictate what direction (ie: Rabbit Hole) one's (or a couple's) modifications take them. Gotta tell y'all, for us and our "style", a 300AH storage capacity totally meets our needs. We do sub-freezing days on end - but not necessarily in the minus zero range for sure. However, there are many owners out there that take advantage of the sub-0 winter months for their boon-docking camping style. Understood, 100%. If we went for a sub-zero, multiple overcast day adventure like that, I could see how 300AH might not be enough. That's when we'd probably need to break out the EU2000 on DAY-3 or 4 when our SOC is floating around 30%. Still doable, I suppose - but that 600AH option in that scenario sounds really nice! HA! Just say'n... perspective.

Will do, John. Might generate OTT Factory-level interest... The pic might look like this: Any suggestions for pic content, @Geronimo John?

Same here for us, Mike. AGMs served us just fine with our previous TT - however, for us at least, the Lithiums have been a game changer. For example, we just returned from a short 3-nighter to Columbus, NM. We started each afternoon with 100% SOC on the BBs (200w portable solar module tucked away in the TV). Standard boon-docking afternoon/evening drill for us is fridge operating in gas mode, inverter OFF, dinner off the gas grill, cocktail lamp - "LIT", furnace OFF, Starlink up and an after-dinner "Shoot 'em Up" movie (neither one of us makes it to the end before crashing-out)... The three nights averaged an 11% drop in SOC by morning. The OTT 340watt solar module roof mount (during MAR sun angles near the US/Mexico border) brought the SOC back up to 100% by 3pm-ish. FYI: DAY-2 was overcast, but we still had 100%SOC before we lit the cocktail lamp - we're love'n this system! Cheers, ALL!

On the rear of our Dometic toilet - where the water connection is, there's an integrated washer/screen at the fitting (where the arrow is pointing below). This screen can get clogged and reduce the flow/pressure to the toilet. The same goes with most faucets. You can remove the screen at the faucet where the water comes out - clear it of debris, and your flow is usually restored.

Still looks big @John Welte...

We had a similar issue with both our toilet (low flow) and the bathroom sink faucet (very low flow) last year. After clearing out each of the diffuser screens - the flow rate came back up to the same level as the kitchen sink. It appeared that there was an accumulation of calcification particles in the screens. Try removing the diffuser from the faucet and examining the screen to remove any debris. Easy fix, for us at least...

HA! It hasn't changed much - they actually sell rattle cans at the CR for like 10 bucks now!

We've followed John's recommendation for our Tundra - a game changer...

Yes, we used a countersink bit... The bezel hangs about an 1" from the overhead: Hope this helps out...

Looks like one of our AS is in that pic! HA! Kinda like Cadillac Ranch near Amarillo....

@theOrca: Great summary, brother! Nicely done - very satisfying, right? BRAVO ZULU!