Mike and Carol

I used the nav on my new truck on the way home from the dealer. It was already out of date.

We have those concrete barriers on I-10 where we live near San Antonio. I guess they’re necessary so construction can happen but they are dangerous and cause accidents. Coy, I’m glad your tire issue ended well, it’s always in the back of my mind when going through those chutes that a mechanical issue of any kind could be disastrous! Mike

This is good advice given to us 4 years ago by Steve. We use legos and blocks to keep jack movement to just a few inches. I also have lines marking the up position so we don’t raise jacks to the click-click-click point. Had a jack come off the track once doing that and had to get the jack handle out to get it going again. This was taken at Gros Ventre Campground at Grand Teton last year. You can see the block on the legos and the jack down just a few inches.

Funny article. Funny because there is some truth there. We’ve mostly had good neighbors but have had bad ones too. Other annoying things are folks that want to talk while you’re backing into your site or while you are going through your set up or breakdown routine or when you are dumping. Also, neighbors who build a smoky fire when the breeze brings the smoke into our site, then they leave to go do something. Being a good camper has a lot to do with being considerate of others. Mike

On our drive today from Roswell to Durango I noticed there is a reflection on the 12” display. The thing is, when you look at it you see the display. If you adjust your focus you see the reflection. So, I don’t think it’s an issue, but if you focus right you might see a reflection. Mike

We have all mirrors and like it. I’m surprised they don’t offer it anymore.

Reflections haven’t been an issue. Lots of sun in south Texas. It’s also fine at night. The screen is glossy, but doesn’t seem to reflect To the driver.

The 12” display is nice. We’ve grown to really like it. I usually split it and have my iPhone (CarPlay) on top with a map and media on the bottom. The Nav that came with it is useless, out of date on day 1. We didn’t want the sunroof and wouldn’t get it again but it’s been nice on occasion. Mike

That fitting looks like what I used. It screws on after you remove the regulator. Here’s a picture of mine.

I found the conversion parts for my Q1000 on Amazon. It doesn’t take long. I left my Outland fire bowl as is and use a separate 20lb tank for it since sometimes we use it in the Clam is can be a ways away from the trailer.

My BF Goodrich tires have been stellar these last 4 years/50K+ miles. But, being able to check both pressure and temperature before we start and while underway does provide peace of mind. If I have a leak due to puncture or any other reason I should know before we’re at a crisis situation. I’ll know about a blowout almost instantaneously. Mike

I used a Rhinoflex for about a year. There were a couple of issues I had with it. First, it developed a small leak (drip, drip, drip) at the end joint where the cap or 90 degree fitting goes. I couldn’t find where the leak was, very frustrating. Second, the hose wasn’t easy to collapse into the shorter, non-extended length for storage in the bumper. I’ve been using a Valterra Dominator for about 18 months and like it a lot. When stretched or compressed the length stays exactly where you put it. That also makes it nice when I don’t need the full 15’, I can stretch it out to what I need and it stays that way. The Rhinoflex tended to want to stretch out. My Rhinoflex looked like the picture T-Oliver posted. The picture from WhatDa looks more like the Dominator I use. It is black with red end fittings and comes with a clear 90 degree fitting. Mike

Roy and Mary, welcome! The sun will come out again and you’ll be able to enjoy your Oliver. You’re pick up will be just in time for the rally, I would recommend attending. You’ll meet a lot of owners and Oliver staff. It’s a great place to learn about your trailer, ask questions, etc. Mike

Good question! We all hope that there will be Oliver merchandise available at some point in the future. It is an expense to start up a merchandise shop and keep it stocked enough to be responsive. I’ve got a hat, some shirts and a nice insulated stainless steel drink container. Right now the only way to get Oliver stuff is at a rally or to visit them in Hohenwald. At rally’s there are usually shirts and last year there were hats. Also, the drink container was a part of the rally packet. Some folks got Oliver chairs early on. With more owners every month it might become profitable or break even for them to start something up. Mike

Agree with WhatDa, plan to spend a few days, or more, in the local area. There is a lot to do in TN and KY, so might as well take advantage! When you get home find a local RV repair and use them. Our local guy works on 3 Olivers that I’m aware of. He’s done warranty work for me that was reimbursed by Oliver. I take my trailer in to him annually for wheel bearings and brakes. We haven’t had any other issues the last couple of years. Mike

The screws on the original lights are about 3/4” long and anchor into the fiberglass. The screws with the new lights are probably 1.25”. They anchor into the fiberglass very securely, just like the originals. I used a 1/8” bit to drill the holes. I looked inside in the upper storage areas to see if I could tell where they came through but the liner in the storage areas doesn’t appear to be easily removable. I did not see any evidence of them inside after the install.

Your Q7 will pull the bigger Ollie, there are owners with an Audi tow vehicle. I would recommend looking at an Oliver in person to see if it would be a good replacement for your current rig. We certainly like ours. We’ve also looked at the Bigfoot. It’s a nice trailer with more room if you get the 25’. It has a more traditional interior. I’d check out both to be sure! Mike

The plastic chrome covers on my porch lights were starting to peel and the rubber gaskets were all dry rotting, causing those ugly black streaks. I’ve tried a few times to seal them with varying success. New ones are about $38. I found some on Amazon that are similar, about an inch larger lengthwise. They have an aluminum cover that is not shiny chrome. They were $19 each. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSBXB0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Light and rubber sheet. Cutting gaskets. The rubber I ordered was much thicker than I needed. Probably 1/8” or less in thickness would be fine. The thickness I had made cutting square edges a bit challenging. Comparison of new and old. After removal of old lights. There isn’t much wire to work with so I cut them off right at the solder joint on the old light. The new lights came with plenty of wire. The remains of my feeble attempts to seal the old rubber is obvious! Cleaned up. I used some 3M fiberglass polish to get the shine back. I decided to drill only one new hole. I hate drilling into my trailer! Since the new lights were about an inch longer it meant the lights would not be centered over the window. I asked Carol to come out and look at the first installation and she didn’t notice the slight off center so I went ahead and did the same for the other three. I filled the old unused hole with silicon. New light. It’s hard to see but the lights are about a half inch off center to the front of the trailer. Lights on. They are about the same brightness as the old. Mike

We also use TST, ours has the older B&W monitor. Works well, not too hard to set up. Good customer service. I know some folks like Tireminder, also good from what I read. Mike

If you are only using the bubble level on the front jack that may be part of the problem. It needs periodic adjustment. If you have a level, any size really, that you can set on the floor inside, or up against the seam around the middle of the trailer on the outside you will get a pretty good idea of how level you are. Then check the bubble on the front jack. If it is off, as mine frequently is, just take a Phillips screwdriver and turn the screws around the bubble until you get it centered. I have a small 8” level I keep in the trailer to check after set up to see if I’m really level. Mike

Both the gray and fresh water tanks are very flat so they fit under the floor. If you are level you probably won’t get a full empty on the gray. I always ensure the trailer is high in the front when draining the gray (and by default the black). The black tank is more square shaped but having the front higher helps with it too. Try raising the front of your trailer and then empty. Mike

Yes, indeed, it is fun. I had the bed of the pickup packed and behind the seats loaded up too. Your first night will be busy with unloading, making beds, filling drawers, etc. Fun times.

My trailer came with the black weatherstripping. It does not bleed. I do pull it out when I wash to clean the window tracks. I drop them in the bucket to clean then use some 303. No issues, unlike the gasket around the porch lights! BTW, after asking Jason about replacement gaskets and porch light covers I bought some new ones and a sheet of rubber. The new lights are about the same shape but with an aluminum cover, not plastic. They were half the price of what Oliver uses. I’ll do a post once I have them installed with pictures. Mike

Glad to hear there could be resolution. I hope the Oliver guy is okay. Ladders can be dangerous. Mike

Good ideas here. The Oliver shell and frame are solid, the weak points are the standard RV parts and appliances found on most campers. Maybe someone could start an Oliver Custom Shop to do mods now that there are more Olivers on the road. Mike