topgun2

Since I store my Ollie away from my home I do not have it readily available. So, I simply don't remember what type of "blade" fuse is necessary - but - you can always simply pull one, take it to WalMart, Ace or any auto parts store and get a "kit" that includes a couple of fuses in the most common sizes plus a fuse puller (beats looking around for a pair of needle nose pliers). You will also need a couple of slow blow fuses for the jacks. There was a recent thread for those here on the Forum or you will find a yellow plastic/rubber protective case near the top of each jack. Inside that case is the slow blow fuse. Take it out, run down to your local NAPA store and buy a couple. Bill

I do not have experience with this particular trashcan. However, I think that smaller is better - its not exactly like there is a bunch of spare room in the bath area😉. Bill

There have been a number of these "containers" shown here on the Forum over the years. "High quality" and "waterproof" can be a bit subjective though. I'd start by looking through the "Mods" section of the Forum and/or doing a search for storage basket. Good luck! Bill

At the top of this page - click "Home" Then click "Owners" Then click "Annual Rally" Note that if you still need more info there is a number to call at the bottom of the "Annual Rally" page. It is unlikely that you will get specific information regarding a specific schedule of Rally activities yet - but - historically there have been presentations on various subjects in the Ballroom of the main Lodge each day plus a number of vendors and current model Oliver trailers are available most of each day in an area down by the lake. There is time for visiting with other owners and there is usually an opening reception and a closing meeting. Do you have a specific question in mind? Bill

I too have ben watching KYD for a few years. I was very surprised hearing the number of 67 mph as this has been my maximum speed for open relatively flat interstates for awhile now. In wind, rain and gloom of night (I very rarely tow at night) the max speed goes lower. Also being in a fair amount of traffic will decrease my maximum no matter how fast those other guys are going. Having said this - it really gives me the nerves to be doing 65 in the right lane while things are passing me at 90 plus just a few feet away. Bill p.s. I really liked the parts about - if it feels to fast - it is too fast.

OK - looks like you got the ball rolling! I've not seen a Rally schedule - yet - but, unusually there is nothing "formally" scheduled for Thursday and Friday nights. So, after everyone has supper on their own and/or an adult beverage or so you are free to wander around, meet up with friends, go up to the Lodge to watch the sun set (or simply watch it set over the lake from the beach) or just try to relax from your day's adventures in Ollie land. So, for at least a couple of hours (I think that the campground quiet hours start at 10pm) you can pick away. Hopefully others that enjoy this sort of thing will either show up at your place or agree to meet for some music and laughs. Bill

Sorry for the thread hijack - but I trust you musical types that are going to be at the Rally are organizing an evening of picking! Just let us know what campsite or area and we'll be there. Bill

dennis - Just about ALL you might want to know about towing and tow vehicles can be found HERE and/or HERE. Good luck on your search. Bill

These days just about anyone that has that "RN" profession is an angel. I've personally been helped by those angels and I'm certainly one that is VERY grateful. Glad you found Oliver like just about everyone here. They are truly something different as is the company that makes them. If there is anything that any of can do to make your journey into the Ollie world a bit more pleasant, please, just let us know. Bill

I don't know - but - I doubt it since the principle on which this device works is based on pressure differences. I wouldn't think that there would be enough pressure difference in the cold water lines. However, in the beginning of my usage, I didn't think that it would really work for the hot water line either. Shows ya what I know. Certainly would not hurt to shoot the company an email. Bill

I assume that you have sent you suggestion to someone at Oliver? If not then I'd send it to Rodney Lomax % Oliver Travel Trailers. Bill

Absolutely! For a number of reasons. Bill

Interesting idea - Our current home was built as a "SPEC" house about 20 years ago. After it sat vacant on the market for two years (because the builder was asking too much money for it) we negotiated a fair price and moved in. A short time later, I discovered that the plumber that did the original work on the house decided to install a "return on the hot water line" from the further point away from the water heater thus forming a "loop" in the hot water line. He did this because the house is relatively long and narrow with the source of hot water being located at one end while the kitchen and laundry room are located at the other end. Obviously this causes a rather long delay in getting hot water to that end of the house. Having never seen a return "hot water line" before I did some investigating and found a product called "Just Right" made by the Nibco company. This product is installed near the water heater on that "return line", it requires NO pump because it basically works using the Venturi principle which takes advantage of the small differences in fluid pressure due to the slight difference in pressure between the return water being slightly cooler than the water coming directly out of the water heater. You can read about how it works HERE. As I see it, the down side is that the water heater would have to constantly be "on", but, that would probably be less expensive than having the furnace constantly "on". Bill p.s. this device works great and there is always hot water available in the kitchen and laundry room. Since there is always water circulating in those house pipes I did insulate those pipes heavily.

Carl - Another thing that you can try is to press down (towards the tire) on the TPMS while at the same time turning the TPMS anti-clockwise (lefty loosey). If the sensors aren't on too tight this just might work without that little wrench. One more - Hold the main body of your TPMS in your left hand and use your right hand to try to twist the very top of the TPMS (again anti-clockwise). Again, if the top isn't screwed on too tight, it just might come off without that little wrench. And, finally - if you have either a thin head adjustable wrench or a thin pair of pliers, you can use those in place of the little wrench. Be a bit careful doing this in that you certainly do not want to bugger up the relatively soft plastic that these TPMS housings are made out of. Bill

Thanks - I try my best to be objective and balanced on both sides of most discussions. Me too! I've never had a flat on the side of the road (knock on wood) but have rotated the tires and raised the camper (using the jacks) in order to place jack stands, blocks of wood, etc. under it in order to do other maintenance jobs too. Being squashed by any vehicle is not high on my list of things to do, therefore, I too am VERY careful and assume full responsibility for for my actions regarding these jacks. Another note for those that own "newer" Ollies - on the newer Ollies the steel sub-frame was bigger (i.e. longer) and this is when Oliver started placing those stickers/decals showing "jack points". For those of us that own older Elite II's the sub-frame is so short that there really is little to no place for a jack. Since one can not use a jack under the axle and there is little to no space under the support for the springs - where does one place a jack? Yes, there are places, but, one must be very careful with its placement - both under the Ollie and on the ground (you certainly do not want ANY shifting of the jack in either location). Thus, for these owners of older Ollies (Elite II's) many times it is easier and even more prudent to simply use these onboard jacks to temporarily raise the camper on one side. Bill

This is what I think the steel brackets are. Under this application I don't believe that there is a snowball's chance in .... that they will fail.

Are you sure that this steel not simply been bent and/or molded/extruded in this manner versus "welded"? I've never examined one of these steel brackets closely, but, I always thought that they were simply reasonably heavy "L" channel. Bill

I just read my email from Ford on this and it sounds really useful. Bill

B & B - What you have heard is correct - these jacks are supposed to be used only for stabilization NOT for leveling. Perhaps your confusion comes from the fact that at one time (pre 2018 or 2019) Oliver actually made note of the fact that these jacks could lift one side of the trailer at a time. Therefore, they could be used for leveling, and/or other things like changing a tire. Certainly the jacks are strong enough to do just that, but, given other possible things going wrong - think twisted frame, cracked fiberglass, collapsing jack tube due to torque and even the possibility of lawyers getting involved with potential liability issues, Oliver now advises to only use these jacks for stabilization. Having said all this, there are still a number of owners that continue to use these jacks for things like changing tires in an emergency, and, lifting the side to the trailer in order to place more substantial supports for jobs like wheel bearing maintenance, etc. Bill

That's great to hear! So, now we are back down to a single instance - that I know of. Bill

I do not specifically know - however, as I said above, I believe that Oliver changed from aluminum to steel brackets in 2018 or so. Certainly, it is easy enough to inspect any particular trailer to ascertain if that trailer has steel of aluminum brackets. All I can do is answer this question relative to the brackets that are on my Oliver. For BOTH rear brackets it is easy to see that they are aluminum AND for BOTH brackets it is easy to see that the welds on both sides of the bracket extends to close to the ends of the bracket. No borescope or light or mirror is needed. I can tell you that this is exactly what Oliver Service did for this owner. I can also tell you that I was told that Oliver Service inspected all "completed" brackets in the parts bins and all brackets on any trailer on the production line with no additional brackets being found that were not welded properly. Indeed, in reading this thread, I'd certainly take a look at my rear brackets - just to make sure - "trust but verify" (The phrase became internationally known in English after Suzanne Massie, an American scholar, taught it to Ronald Reagan, then president of the United States, the latter of whom used it on several occasions in the context of nuclear disarmament discussions with the Soviet Union.) This is particularly true given that it appears that there just may have been two instances (that we know of) that had failures of this nature - even though no pictures of the bracket failure that started this thread have been given.

Everyone - please note. I have never heard of any of the aluminum brackets failing as long as they were welded properly in the first place. The issue with the bracket in the photos above is that while there was a "spot" weld completed on the one side of the bracket, the finish weld that should have gone across the entire length of the bracket on that side - as it did on the reverse side - was never completed. And that is the reason the bracket failed. Those with aluminum brackets that are welded on both sides of the bracket should experience no issues. Recalls and/or Service bulletins are only issued if there is a known problem that affects a number of trailers - not a one off. Bill

GJ - You're welcome. Bill

I don't exactly know when but Oliver stopped using the aluminum ones within a year of so (2018?) after the photos above.

Heck - I'd bet that the shipping costs more than the cover!