topgun2

No problem - consider it done! Bill

The Andersen ramps are great. But - you can certainly make the Andersen "Blocks" a bunch cheaper. Find or buy a treated 6x6 piece of lumber. Cut into a couple of pieces of between 10 and 11 inches. If you want to get fancy you can put a handle on them and give them a coat or two of sealer. Then, unlike the Andersen blocks you can use these on end for 10 to 11 inches (note that this is about the distance to the bottom of the jacks on level ground minus an inch or two) or you can lay these on their side for a 5 to 6 inch height. Keep your eye out for someone building a new house and/or deck. Many time this is the place where you can ask for "cut-offs" that are just the right size for your purpose. Bill p.s. another "benefit" is that if you ever drive off without them you don't have to beat yourself up over the cost of getting new ones.😃

Yep - this was my first thought too. However, only the Elite I's had what was known as the "stripper pole". Bill

I don't like crowds or even most of my family either!🤪

I don't know the exact answer to your question - but - I did have a similar problem when I stopped in the Service dept this past August. They showed me the broken part and I had them replace it. So, I'm sure a call to them will get your the answer. Bill

I've split my replies concerning the above quote into a new thread since it really didn't fit with the topic of this thread. It can now be found HERE. There are a number or reviews, pictures and details about this Oliver by its original owner located in various places in his blog posts from 2016 through 2017. Enjoy! Bill

I just found THIS link in my old Oliver files. It just might give you even more info about your baby when it was new! Bill But wait - there's more to include that video I thought was lost. Find it HERE

If you know Anita in the Oliver Sales office then she can (probably) give you a bunch more detail than I can give here. I fairly sure that your Ollie was built for a guy located in Greer, SC. His job had something to do with "fracking" for oil in PA and maybe even NY and since he spent a fair amount of time in these locations during the winter he wanted the tank heaters. Since he used the Oliver for its intended purpose, he found out that when it got cold and he could use those tank heaters, he was forced to stay inside the camper for extended periods of time (hard to be outside with all the cold and snow). So, even though he still highly praised his Oliver, he decided to sell it in order to have more interior room during those periods of confinement. I'm assuming that the gas stove you refer to has to do with its orientation - the lift up shield and the burners are straight in front of you as opposed to the shield "protecting" the curbside bed and having to reach across the front burner to get to the rear burner. This was the original orientation (and what I have on my #117) but given the number of owners that were asking for the cooktop to be turned, Oliver made this "turned" stove the standard. When I was looking at purchasing an Oliver, it was Windcrasher that had the only video available on YouTube. I must have watched that lone video 75 times during the production of Twist - no, there was not such thing as the Oliver University either at that time. He had posted a few other vids about his Oliver, his Travato van, and his fancy tugboat looking boat that he was having built. But, shortly after he sold his Oliver the videos on YouTube disappeared. A quick Google search of his "old" blog and video name turned up THIS review of camper vans he saw at the 2014 Hershey RV show. Bill

I know that there have been "on and off" discussions at the Factory about having Olivers available for rent in situations such as you are describing. However, to my knowledge, Oliver has never followed through on this idea. Probably the fact that they are/were selling (fairly quickly) all of the units that they could produce. Having said this - now just might be a great time for you (or anyone else in a similar position) to suggest this to the folks at Oliver. Ya never know! Bill

Perhaps a bit more to your point though - There have been several threads here on the Forum related to the various types of material that have been used for mounting various items. These range from marine grade plywood to plastic cutting boards to various poly type construction materials. I think that both Mossemi and ScubaRx have some experience along these lines - a PM to each might get you a direction you can use. Bill p.s. As far as I know - the material under that insulation would simply be the inside of the hull. I'd be very careful putting screws through it because it is highly likely that your tires are under there.

THAT's interesting! Never saw one of those in an Oliver either in or out of the factory. Bill

H & E - Jeff (Overland) as last on the Forum back on January 2nd. You might be better off sending him a Private Message (PM). Good luck! Bill

I too was not happy with the "wet bath". It was probably Anita, but early on someone mentioned to me just how "expensive" RV real estate is. They went on to explain by asking me just how much actual time I spent in the bath each day versus virtually any other part of the trailer. Good point I thought and then they mentioned the virtual "automatic cleaning" of the bath that occurs each time I used it for a shower. As it turns out - I was concerned over basically nothing - it really isn't any big deal and certainly I do use the other real estate more than I would use that same square footage in a dry bath. Another related thought - Oliver could (fairly easily) actually make a dry bath in the Elite II. Simply eliminate the closet and then extend the bath area into that "old" closet area - easy. I'm not giving up that closet space though! Bill

In that vintage of Oliver - most (if not all) were glued. Bill

Call it what you will - but - it was still money out of your pocket.😬

I'm a big fan of the BuiltRight gear. I've only used the dash mount system and have never tried what you're looking at but if you have ANY question - give them a call. Chances are you will get the owner of BuiltRight and if he doesn't have something to take care of what you need, he will either point you in the right direction or (maybe) offer to make it for you. Good luck! Bill

For those lines I do exactly the thing that I do for the other lines that have faucets (i.e. the kitchen and the bath) - I let the water pump simply pump the anti-freeze from the winterization port through the water pump to the outside faucet (both hot and cold water lines) until I see the pink stuff coming from the shower head. Bill

The Harbor Freight one I've been using for the past eight years still performs like new. I simply attach the male end onto one of the exterior ports and place the other end into a gallon of anti-freeze. Then a couple of plunger pumps and on to the next port. Just make sure when your done to pump some fresh water through the device and then let it dry for a couple of days before storing for next year. Bill

You made my day (almost) - I just knew that there must have been SOMETHING I remembered from Geometry class.😁

Well - Besides allowing a water leak to drain, the scupper holes allow any moisture to evaporate from within the hulls. Primarily this moisture is the result of water vapor due to cooking and (more importantly) human/animal induced vapor due to breathing and evaporation from the skin. The scuppers were designed as they are in order to create a Venturi effect that actually draws moisture out from between the hulls when the Ollie is being towed. Bill

I thought we did.....😊

For most of us winterization is now turning into thoughts of getting ready for the Spring camping season. However, I just received a notice from Harbor Freight that the "Multi-Use Transfer Pump" is on sale for $4.99. With the addition of a plastic fitting (similar to THIS ONE) - see pic below - you will be all set to pump anti-freeze into those exterior ports next Fall. p.s. I just noted that Harbor Freight failed to correct the price in at least one location - but - the price has been reduced from $7.99 to $4.99!

I understand that EACH of the molds costs between 2 and 3 million dollars. I'd bet that there would/are some real interesting conversations within Oliver about dropping that kind of money versus how much the finished unit would cost versus just how many of them could be sold. But, to help answer the question - I don't see why a 30 foot Oliver couldn't be built. Bill

The operative word in the above is "they". If you mean Oliver then the current answer is - NO. There is no change to Oliver's long standing policy regarding used Olivers. If you mean Oliver dealers" then I believe that the answer is - YES. These are independent dealers and if they currently deal in used RV's the I'd suspect that they will deal in used Olivers. And, if this is the case, that just might be another "benefit" to this new program for all of the current owners. This is particularly so for those that find themselves in a situation where they might have to get rid of their Oliver in a hurry and/or those that really have no knowledge of an Oliver but for a number of various reasons find themselves in charge of selling or disposing of the Oliver from an Estate or medical issues or .... Bill

I've been told that it is Oliver's intent that it will not matter as to the location that you chose to purchase your new Oliver or even to have that new Oliver delivered. In each case the price will be the same. Only time can tell how successful they will be and/or how close they will be able to get in fulfilling that intent. Bill